• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.142-152
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• 2006

The purpose of the study was to demonstrate how to recreate Spencer jacket of Empire Style in an attempt to apply this historic style to theatrical costumes and other high fashion items in modern times. The study was carried out through 2 steps. First, Literature, films and other visual information were utilized in order to classify the designs of Spencer jacket. Second, Production of Spencer jacket using patterns shown in literatures and those commercially used and commercial patterns were investigated to find out design characteristics of jackets. Results and discussions are as follows: The results showed that Spencer jacket can be categorized into following three styles: (1) Jackets having front opening without button stands and standing collar, (2) Double breasted opening and notched collar, (3) Single breasted opening and flat collar with waist band. The characteristics of Spencer jacket design were as follows: (1) Short jacket length, (2) Armhole line moved inwards, (3) Long fit shaped puff sleeves, whose puff being distributed more heavily over back of the sleeve, (4) Diamond shaped back bodice, which are consisted with princess lines and shoulder lines moved backwards.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.665-674
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to develop a grading increment at armhole area by apparel CAD(Computer Aided Design) system. In developing a grading increment at armhole area, we analyzed ease values of armhole area in bodice and sleeve by manual drafting patterns of five sizes. We suggested grading increments applied Pythagorean theorem to development the grading increment of the armhole of sleeve. The results and discussions of this study were as follows: 1. In drafting each size, the ease values were not identical. It was difficult to draft perfectly the same armhole line shape between sizes. 2. According to our developed grading increments applied Pythagorean theorem, the ease values were identical between sizes and difference of the armhole length between sizes was also identical. 3. The grading formulas were made out for apparel CAD system. Once grading increment or formula is set in the computer, it can be easily altered to various clothing items at any time. The efficiency of grading work will be also improved and grading time will be reduced.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.129-147
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to survey and analyze domestic fashion education institution's program on apparel prototype and thereupon, address the problems and find their solutions, and thereby, provide for some basic data useful to improve the basic patterns of apparel and ultimately, help reinforce the professional and practical apparel design education. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. 85.1% of the subjects finished graduate or higher courses. Almost all of the college and junior college teachers finished graduate or higher courses, while only 31.6% of those teaching at technical institutes finished graduate or higher courses. Such a finding suggests that colleges tend to employ their faculty members based on their academic background but that technical institutes value the practical ability of their faculty more. 2. As a result of surveying the types of basic patterns used by teachers, it was found that 72.3% of them were using two or more patterns. The basic pattern preferred most by our teachers was Japanese culture institute's type (71.3%), followed by the US FIT type (24.5%), Lim Won-Ja's type (22.3%), French ESMOD type (17.0%). 96.3% of our apparel design students were making their basic patterns as instructed by their teachers. 3. 67.0% of our students were using their conceived sizes for production of their basic patterns, 14.9% were referring to the ready-made sizes, 8.5% were relying on their teachers' individual experiences, and 9.6% were using their own cord sizes. In order to survey the difference between teachers' sizes (ready-made sizes or individual experienced ones) and business sizes used, the basic body measurements used for ready-made apparels were surveyed to be compared with the national standard body sizes set in 1997 for women aged between 18 and 24. As a result, it was found that the ready-made sizes used for apparel production prototypes than teachers' ones were nearer the national standard sizes. Such a finding suggests that it may well be necessary for teachers to be more connected with the apparel businesses and thereby, teach their students in a more realistic way with correct information. 4. 83.0% of the subject teachers were tacking their basic patterns to be well fitting, and 76.9% of these teachers were tacking the patterns in reference with students' individual body sizes. In all, 97.4% of the subject teachers were guiding the tacking process, which suggests that the flat patternmaking is taught primarily for customized apparels. As a result of comparing the fitness of basic patterns with those of each body part, it was found that teachers were most dissatisfied with the fitness of shoulders and arm hole depth. Therefore, it will be necessary to reclassify the body types or find other drawing techniques to improve the fitness of such body parts. Nevertheless, teachers were willing much (4.18) to develop their own educational basic patterns for themselves. Lastly, it is hoped that this study will be followed up by future studies on educational prototypes covering diverse body shapes and those on practical implementations of those prototypes for students.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.4
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• pp.641-650
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• 2008

In this study, seven models with distinctly different body types were researched and explanatory variables were reviewed. Review was done by using body measurements and the measurements of the appropriate bodice patterns in 1D, 2D, and 3D measurement methods in order to review the pattern making system and the equations for calculating the dimensions of the sleeve caps, which are readily available. Data on human bodies, which can be the criteria for each body part required for the new system for making sleeve cap part, were selected considering conditions such as items with a significantly high contribution rate from the results of regression analysis and the easiness of measurement. As a result of research, an explanatory variable required for the system for making sleeve caps with high general use was extracted. All items with the exception of the waist circumference and upper arm circumference were about the measurement of the form of human bodies, which were newly set in this study. As a result of this study, the equations for calculating the dimensions of each part of the sleeve caps showed distinct differences in comparison to the conventional system of construction.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.4
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• pp.99-112
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• 2008

The aim of the study was to look into the construction methods of historical corsetry and compare them with the construction methods of corsetry today. Through a comparative study, it was concluded that the design, material, sewing and functions of corsetry of a certain period are sum of the clothing techniques and fashion of the time. Corset was first appeared at the end of the 16th century. It has been through many changes in terms of items, materials, patterns, sewing methods in order to make right silhouettes of the time. Now corsetry has been developed into various items such as waist nipper, all-in-one, nipper bra, and girdle. All these items have a common purpose, that is to improve the body shape. The corsetry of the past was made of non stretchable materials, so they used to restrict body movements, and required individual fitting several times. Due to the development of thin durable stretchable fabrics, functional bones, and advanced sewing machines, construction methods of seam, hem and opening are simplified compare to their predecessors. Consequently corsetry became less weighted, easy to wear, easy to wash and easy to mass produce. Yet they have consistency in sewing techniques such as using bones or wires to support bodice shape, using durable twill fabrics over plain for attractive body shapes.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.787-795
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• 2003

This research studied several somatotypes for children's upper bodies in order to suggest the basic data of bodice patterns of children's clothing. By extracting the component factors from the children's bodices, they were classified into several somatotypes to recognize an individual body type. Three hundred and fifty eight children's wears were estimated as research objects to analyze their somatotypes for the 44 items representing upper bodies through anthropometric measurement and photometric measurement. The results are as follows : 1. Seven factors were extracted as a result of factor analysis. 2. Data were classified into three types as a result of cluster analysis : Type 1 was characterized as low fat body, small skeleton size, and forward belly ; type 2 as high fat body, normal hight, backward shoulder, and the lowered shoulders ; type 3 as medium fat body, tall height, somewhat crouching back, and the rising shoulders. 3. As a results of the discrimination analysis for the three types, the highly discriminated items were height, width of bosom, front center length. weight, width of waist or the length of waist. One could discriminate one's own body type by obtaining the classification function from these five items.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.61-68
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• 2000

In recognition of the necessity to research on dresses of the past to lead future fashion, this study is focused on plastron basque that has constructed or decorated upper garments in various forms from the ancient times to modern times. Especially through reproduction and restoration of Victorian dress with plastron basque, the study approaches the problem in positive manner, As a result, studied 1887∼9 day dress is a plastron of pouched style with pleats panel in front center connected to jacket style bodice by buttons: and it shows changes into modern day dress form by constructing fitted line with decorative effects. By actually making the plastron that was only seen in picture, we expect this study will be a valuable resource for developing patterns, sewing and decoration techniques.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.24
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• pp.29-46
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• 1995

This study is on the classification of Chchori forms in Korea in the 16 th and 17 th Centuries by investigating the patterns an construction of excavated clothong. The characteristic features of the Korean Chchori in the period are as follow. 1. The Chchori shows forms. The diversity is accomplished by varing the components pattern is Chchori, such as collar, sleeve, and bodice. The divertification in Chchori pattern represents an attempt to advance the simple Chchori pattern in the 4 th and 5 th Centuries to the mordern one. 2. Mokpankit (목판깃) has a straight construction line but Kalkit (칼깃), Dangkogit(당코깃) have curved one. This suggests a transformation in the construction line of Chchori. 3. Among Chchori pattern, some Mokpankit and Kalkit Chchori show two kinds in size ; 40-50 cm and 60-70 . However, Dangkokit Chchori has only one size of 40-50cm. Considering the difference in body size between man and woman , Mokpankit Chchori and Kalkit Chchori are jueged to be for man and woman commonly, and Dangkokit Chchori is for woman only. After the period , woman wears only Dangkokit Chchori, whichis thought to come from the sex discrimination. Consequently on the viewpoint of rinsiple of Adaptation to Environments, forementioned facts prove the changes in Korean society in the 16 th and 17 th centuries on the historical basis of costume.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.851-862
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• 2011

The purposes of this study were to identify the material manipulation techniques for paper garments and their characteristics. Reference books or articles were reviewed and catalogues from paper garments exhibition or show, brochures from Paper Museums, and internet sites of paper fashion designers were selected for analysis. Paper has much similarity with natural cellulose textiles in appearances and contents but has much distinct differences in their physical characteristics such as strength, durability, washability, and resilience, and could be treated as one category of textiles. Paper garments were developed with practicality and functionality for the poor and Buddist monks at first but progressed into more aesthetics later for the rich. Paper garments could be divided into 4 categories of garments made of paper, paper thread fabric or knit, modified paper with wanter, and beaten bark of mulburry bush. Paper can be manipulated by coloring & cutting, bonding, or quilting and bonding or quilting can reenforce the strength of paper but cannot increase flexibility. Paper manipulated by weaving or knitting has very similar physical properties as cotton or linen and ideal for summer textiles. Paper can be manipulated with water to make a paper paste and bodice can be moulded with paper paste or Joomchied. Also we can express beautiful patterns on the surface of paper by washouting. Konnyaku paste or lacquer can be used to make paper garments to be waterproof.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.61 no.1
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• pp.53-71
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• 2023

Dressmaking is a high value-added sector of the fashion industry in which the individuality and skills of designers play a prominent role. The appropriate use of the draping and the flat pattern techniques in the dressmaking process also play an important part in perfecting the finished product. The purpose of this study was to improve the understanding of dress design and identify a pattern production technique to enhence efficiency in each of the three elements of the dress manufactureing process. For this purpose, analysis of the design of 1,389 wedding dress photographs published in Wedding 21, Korea's leading wedding magazine, during 2019 and 2020 was conducted. This analysis identified 15 bodice designs and 11 sleeve designs based on neckline and eight skirts based on silhouette which were ranked by frequency distribution. Patterns for the design of samples were then developed according to the highest combined frequency distribution of these three elements. Eight samples were finally produced to test the the efficiency of the patternmaking techniques empolyed and the selected designs. The findings from this study have practical applications, notably in improving the efficiency of pattern production techniques that will facilitate further growth in the dressmaking industry.