• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.17-26
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• 1985

The purpose of this study is to develop a bodice pattern drafting method for Korean elderly women over sixty years old on the basis of their physical characteristics which differ from those of adult women. The study is composed as follows; 1. One hundred and five elderly women were measured on 20 items. Twenty-five items including 20 measured items and 5 calculated items were analyzed statistically. 2. A new method was developed based on the results of data analysis. Basic shells constructed from the patterns were examined through three fitting tests for completion. 3. The sensory evaluation was applied to evaluate the new pattern for elderly women by comparing it with the conventional pattern for adult women. A five-point rating scale was developed for the evaluation. According to a statistical analysis of the result of the 20 items on the questionnaire, all the items showed significant differences (a$\leqq$0.01) between the two, with the new pattern having higher scores.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.10
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• pp.1754-1762
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• 2001

본 연구의 목적은 적합성과 기능성이 고려된 체형별 남성 상의 원형 패턴을 개발하는데 있다. 피험자는 인체계측자료와 측면체형 사진에 의해 선정하고, 체형은 굴신체형, 표준체형, 반신체형으로 분류하였다. 체형별 실험 원형 패턴의 평가를 위하여 기존원형을 선정하였으며, 연구 결과는 다음과 같다; 1. 착의평가 결과 표준체형은 대부분의 항목에서 적합하였으나, 굴신체형과 반신체형에서는 많은 차이가 있었다. 이러한 차이는 앞길이와 등길이 뿐만 아니라 여유량과 윗 가슴둘레에 서 나타난다. 앞품과 뒤품은 외관에 의해 많은 영향을 받으며, 증가된 옆품은 앞품과 뒤품의 부족분을 보충하는 역할을 하였다. 따라서 실험패턴은 기존패턴보다 각 체형에 더욱 적합하며, 체형 적합성과 동작기능성이 고려된 의복 제작을 위한 패턴설계는 인체의 구조와 동작연구에 의해 가능하였다. 2. 기본원형 패턴 설계를 위한 필요치수는 목뒤높이, 등길이, 앞길이, 윗 가슴둘레, 앞품과 뒤품이며, 체형분류의 기준은 윗 가슴둘레, 앞품, 뒤품, 앞길이, 등길이이다. 이와 같은 결과를 근거로 가슴둘레 선은 [(B/2+B/10), 뒤진동깊이는 [(B/10+목뒤높이/10)]로 설정하고, 앞내림은 1.5cm로 하였다.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.120-137
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• 2013

Nowadays, due to the increase of the aging population and the decreased size of the traditional nuclear family, pet dogs are considered to be important member of the family. The pet industry has been growing every year; subsequently, is essential to develop practical patterns and designs which are appropriate for the structure and movement of pet dogs. However, studies for developing a new form of pet dog's wear patterns and designs are limited. This study develops an all-in-one pattern which is based on pet dog's size, designs pet dog's wear items based on all-in-one patterns, and provides support to the manufacture of pet dog's wear. The results are as follow: 1) An analysis for the categories and design characteristics of all-in-one pet dog's wear according to the research from the online pet dog's wear shopping sites is provided. Eight categories are classified as follows: rompers, body suit, coveralls, training suit, special clothing, overalls, rain coat, and hanbok. 2) The production of all-in-one pet dog's wear basic pattern based on the basic bodice pattern from the prior studies and the manufacturer's patterns are being displayed. 3) Developments of the patterns and designs for eight all-in-one clothing consider the design characteristics and the situations. 4) Developments of the previous eight items illustrate the results of this research.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.187-199
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• 2009

Recently, the quality and design of the children's wear is being improved remarkably. Following the trend, the need for the research on the pattern making of children's wear is growing. At first, we tried to find out how the industry is doing the pattern making job through interview. Results are as follows. The target age ranges from 5 to 11 years old. For the sample size of pattern making, 7 years of age is preferred. It is not usual to develop the design pattern from the bodice block pattern. Instead, they use middle block pattern for each item, such as blouse, shirt, pants, skirt or jacket. Starting from these middle block pattern, they prepare individual designs. With the results, the aim of the research became to develop one of most frequently used middle block pattern. The blouse block pattern was selected for that purpose. To look into the existing patterns, we selected 4 methods, i.e. NM-method, T-method, O-method, E-methods. Theses patterns were compared through wearing test for the evaluation of comfort and fit using trial garments. The results indicated the NM-method was best among them. Specially waist line position, shoulder shape and size allowance was adequate. Alteration and adjustment of pattern draft was made onto the NM-method. Allowances for the bust circumference, across chest, across back and depth of arm was adjusted for better comfort as well as fine fit. Sidelines of the bodice and the underarm seam of the sleeves were curved for styling. After another wearing test, the final pattern was suggested as a blouse block pattern for 7 years old girl.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.846-852
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• 2012

Pets (such as dogs) are considered as important as family members, this perspective is due to an aging population and the decreased size of the traditional nuclear family. The pet industry has been growing every year; subsequently, is useful to develop practical patterns and designs appropriate for the body structure and movement of pet dogs. However, studies to develop a new form of pet dog's wear patterns and designs are limited. This study develops a basic pattern that is easily used based on a pet dog's size, designs popular clothing items for pet dogs, and helps in the manufactures of pet dog's wear. The results are as follow: 1) Analyzed categories and popular items of pet dog's wear from the research of the prior studies and on-line pet dog shopping malls; three categories (everyday wear, street wear, and special wear) and six items (T-shirt, one-piece, coat, jumper, and dress, tuxedo). 2) Developed the basic bodice pattern and sleeve pattern after test-wearing and revising the experimental patterns referenced from prior studies. 3) Developed patterns and designs for six popular items based on situation and gender: one-piece (everyday wear), coat (street wear), wedding dress (special wear) for female dogs/T-shirt (everyday wear), hood jumper (street wear), tuxedo (special wear) for male dogs. 4) Developed the previous six items to illustrate the research results of the study.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.219-230
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• 1994

The purpose of this comparative research is to investigate the change of the drafting method of the basic patterns for women in Korea. Followings were the findings of this research: 1) The concept of the basic pattern could be found after the first of the 1950s and there was introduction of the many basic patterns. At first measurement couldn't be found. Gradually the personal body type could be expressed in the basic pattern through the practical measurements such as the width of highest bust level and the length of neck to bust. 2) Through the ages the changes of the basic patterns were between 1950,60s and 1980,90s distinctively at the back width back shoulder angle front and back shoulder height from biceps line back neck ratio(height/width) BP position at the biceps line the amounts of underarm dart underarm dart position from the biceps lines and front ease angle at BP line. 3) 4 Grouping the types of the basic pattern followings are their characters; 1st Munwha or Doreme style 2nd waist dart group 3rd underarm dart and rectangular front ease 4th the usage of many measurements like as front length upper bust girth etc.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.99-110
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• 2022

This study attempted to develop a bodice prototype that is the basis for the production of upper body clothing for 20s plus-size women who have distinct characteristics from women with general body types. Through this, it was intended to provide basic data necessary for the development of plus-size women's clothing, which is revitalizing the market due to the increase in the obese population. Through the first evaluation of appearance and abdominal pressure, patterns such as moving the side neck, adding the amount of armhole dart, and adding the amount of sagging were modified. Through the second evaluation, corrections such as vertical side lines, reduction of the neck of the back center line, and adding the amount of armhole darts were performed. Through the third evaluation, the final pattern drafting method was developed by vertically modifying the side line and adding the amount of back armhole darts. In the case of 20s plus-size female body types, a drafting method distinguished from the general body type was required in the method of setting the side and hem due to the protrusion of the abdomen. This study can be said to be meaningful in that it proposed a bodice prototype drafting method suitable for the body type of 20s plus-size women. In the follow-up study, it is thought that the wearability should be evaluated through actual garment wearing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.14 no.4 s.36
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• pp.274-280
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• 1990

This paper is intended to grasp the characteristics of many bodices patterns which have been shown so far. The way is by selecting four characteristic kinds of patterns, making blouses offer the patterns and measuring ease. In measuring the degree of ease, $Scheff\`{e}'s$ paired comparison is made use of. In analysis, variation ratio has come out of analysis of variance, and significance is tested by producing estimated values between patterns. The Result is summed up as follows. 1. After wearing blouses made ofter different basic patterns and measuring ease, the analysis of variance is made about the sensory value of ease. The result is as follows. 1) In the ease of different patterns, all the areas are significant at the level of $1\%$ , regard- less of movements. 2) Under the influence of movements, the back area of arm hole is significant at the level of $5\%$ in narrow movements, and the front and the back area of arm hole are each significant at the level of $1\%$ in wide movements. 3) In the interaction of patterns and movements, bust and the under area of arm hole are each significant at the level of $1\%$ in narrow movements, and bust is significant at the level of $1\%$ in wide movements. 2. When comparing estimated values between patterns, the value of c is the largest and in the order of b,4, a. And in the other movements, the order changes into c,d, b and a. Thus the ease of blouses is different according to patterns. The reason for this is that the amount of ease of bust, the amount and location of darts, and sleeve cap height have complicate influences on the ease of blouses. Both sleeve cap height and the depth of arm hole have influences on the ease of sleeve. Consequently, in making clothes, it would be better to select and use proper patterns which go with the purposes and desings of clothes rather than to apply one pattern to various clothes.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.88-98
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• 2005

This study focuses on the needs at both consumers and manufacturers. It aims to find ways for consumers to purchase outfits that would fit their particular body type and preferences at reasonable prices, choose raw materials and style at garments, and virtually try them on. In addition, the study is designed to help apparel manufacturers identity customers' changing needs, reduce inventories, manage information on customers' body type in a digitalized form, and eventually contribute to promoting electronic commerce. Based on nine basic patterns that tit each subject, 108 virtual garments are created by adjusting the size of the patterns (9 subjects $\times$ 4 body parts $\times$ 3 patterns = 108 outfits). In order to determine fitting preferences for each body part and find optimized conditions, cross-tabulation analysis including $X^2$ and frequency analysis were performed to measure the appearance rate. A style of virtual garment, which is minus 2cm from chest size was chosen as the most appropriate pattern to the baseline location of front the chest. For the waist parts, the C style as an appropriate virtual garment to front and back view. In the front, lateral and back view, a style was chosen in the response to the sleeve-bodice combinations, the ease amount of armhole area, the armhole depth and the loosening of tightening or armhole line.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.1228-1241
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• 2010

This study aims to help understanding on design of basic pattern of shirt collars and to suggest schemes to raise completeness of shape by reviewing problems shown in finished products after sewing. From March 2009 to August 2009, 12 patterns for education and firms were collected centering on basic shirt collar form respectively. There are four problems generally raised from a completed shirt collar. In case of overlapping shirt collar on front neck point, the sewing point of shirt collar should be drawn at front neck point of collar band at a distance of about 0.2~0.3cm, and the center front of band and one of bodice should be arranged in a straight line. In case of the problem about right and left length difference of shirt collar, it is raised by closing so the problem was solved by prolonging about 0.2 cm of the center front of left collar. It was evaluated that adjusting notch point when sewing would be more rational solution than solving something on patterns for distance difference problem of shirt collar between right and left part at center front. And a problem about getting loose of front garment between collar band below and the first button was also raised. It was designed 0.2cm cut of collar band. Around basic shirt collar form, above mentioned solutions are applied to the patterns for education and manufacture experimental clothing. So as a result of sensory evaluation, generally good ratings on all items were received.