• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.25 no.3
• /
• pp.15-26
• /
• 1987

The purpose of this study was to develop the pattern drafting method which would be suitable to their physical characteristics for the fatty body of 40∼55 aged Korean women who are more than 1.5 Rohrer's Index and 90㎝ bust girth. The study was composed as follows; 1. Body measurement and statistical analysis: One hundred and thirty women were measured on 29 items. Thirty-four items including 29 measured items and 5 calcutated items were analyzed statistically. 1) Mean, standard deviation, variance, maximum, minimum, range were computed. 2) Correlation coefficients between each items were computed. 2. Development of new bodice pattern drafting method: Measurement items necessary to draft new bodice pattern were bust girth, center back waist length, shoulder width, back width, chest and neck base girth. The new pattern was examined through three wearing tests for completion. 3. Evaluation of the new pattern drafting method: The new pattern was objectively evaluated by the sensory test. The sensory evaluation was applied to evaluate the new pattern for the fatty body women by comparint it with the conventional patterns. The results of sensory tests of the new pattern are as follows: 1) The composite reliability coefficient is 0.7698, and the reliability of sensory test shows high. 2) According to a statistical analysis of the result of the 23 items on the questionaire, all the items showed significant differences(α 0.01) between the two, with the new pattern having higher scores. The new pattern is better conventional pattern as the average mark of the former is 3.901 but that of latter is 2.926. The new pattern drafting method proved to be superior to the conventional one especially in the fitness at the center front neck point, shoulder point, side line, armscye depth, position of bust point, chest width line, under arm dart and the shoulder line.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.9 no.3
• /
• pp.64-87
• /
• 2005

The purpose at this study is to develop the appropriate bodice model for Chinese women in order to contribute to the improvement of fitness at clothing products that are exported to China. The sample group was the subject of 149 persons with the standard body shape at 19-24 years old women who reside in Beijing and Shanghai, China. The data analysis is processed for statistics using SPSSWIN 10.0 PROGRAM, and the used analysis methods are technical statistics analysis, factor analysis, group analysis, and one-way ANOVA. The outcome of this study is summarized as follows. 1. Prior to develop the tight-fitting shape of bodice model, the body classification approach by the posture and type of bending and stretching is selected to use 6 index items, and the body types are classified into bent body, right body, and pull-back body. 2. The average body size of standard body shape had 3 times of wearing experiment based on the tight-fitting shape of ESMOD bodice block drawing, and the system was corrected and supplemented to present the final bodice block drawing. 3. Comparisons have been made based on the center front line, center back line and chest circumference for each of existing bodice block for Chinese women, existing bodice block for Korean women and the combination of the bodice block under this study.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.21 no.6
• /
• pp.66-76
• /
• 2017

This study used a virtual wearing system equipped with body shape data with a 3D scanner, based on a female basic bodice, to develop a modified Hanbok Jeogori with high fitness capabilities to provide basic data for the development of the modified Hanbok Jeogori pattern for the academic and industrial fields. In this study, the representative modified Hanbok design which most frequently appeared in broadcasting ads and on line was selected. The wearing test was conducted by six professionals, and three times wearing tests were implemented based on 17 evaluation items. The data for this study was processed statistically using SAS 9.0. We conducted, the F-test for significance verification, the Duncan-test for a post test, and a correlation analysis of Cronbach's alpha coefficient for a reliability test of dressing test results were implemented for each of the three tests. The pattern of the developed modified Hanbok Jeogori overcame the defects of the short length of the conventional modified hanbok, and could fix the length issue. The developed Hanbok pattern solved the overlapping problem of the shoulder, back neck point-sleeve length(Whajang), and armhole, displayed in a straight line from the Godae point of the previous modified Hanbok; it suggested the position of the Seop and neck line in the basic bodice. Based on this, the Seop width, Git form, Goreum and the width, length, and position of the string whose dimensions can differ in accordance with the trend can be applied in various forms.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.32 no.5
• /
• pp.846-858
• /
• 2008

This study was designed to propose a method to draft bodice block pattern from 3D body scan data. Subjects were ten elderly women in their 60's, who wear basic size(B: 94cm, W: 82cm) garment. Scanning was done using 3D whole body scanner(WB4, Cyberware). Measurements for 3D data and cross section were attained using Auto CAD, by which a upper bodice pattern for elderly women was drawn on the basis of short measured method. The results are as following: As for most items, no significant differences were shown between measurements from Martin's anthropometry and those from 3D scan data, suggesting measurement from 3D scan data could be used to draft a pattern. The drafting equations acquired were as follows; width of pattern=B/2+5.5, width of waist=W/2+3.5cm, dart amount=8cm. Dart distributions were 23%(B.P.) : 20%(front armpit) : 17%(side seam) : 18%(back armpit) : 15%(back protruded point) : 7% (center back line). Through wearing test using 5-point Likert scale, resultant pattern was evaluated as appropriate for elderly women's pattern to get over 4 point. As a result, it might be said that 3D scanning application is effective for elderly women in that it doesn't take time so much as Martin's anthropometry and that their body shape vary compared with those of young women.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.34 no.5
• /
• pp.249-264
• /
• 1996

The purpose of this study was to investigate automatic manipulating functions of dart of CAD system, and to classify the dart of women's front bodice. The results from this study: 1.3 CAD systems, were compared in automatic manipulating functions of dart. Gerber system & Investronica system were based on the pivot-method of dart manipulating, Yuka system was based on the slash-method. 2. It is classified and made a dart-design chart with using darts, which were as examples related to dart manipulating in text & reference of the pattern design. 3. In case of education of dart manipulation, the classified dart-design chart provides variations of a basic pattern through dart manipulation.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.1 no.2
• /
• pp.131-144
• /
• 1993

Even though it has been to research on the variance of clothing pressure and on its effect of human body, it has not been available to evaluate the clothing pressure as an objective standard ta for the determination of an extra quantity of bodice' basic pattern. In this paper the basic pattern(the close adherence original shape) is determined by a drawing of plane figure after detaching an unweaving clothing from the inside of the gypsum, and the extra quantity is figured by a extension quantity when is formatted with 0.5, 1.0, 1.5 cm extra quantity longitudinal-cross section figures. With our experimental method, review the variance of clothing pressure according to difference of the extra quantity which was figured with subjects wearing experimental clothing including the extra quantity. The difference of the extra quantity was able to calculate with data form the subjects when anatomical position and five movements, then compare with subjects wearing non-extra quantity experimental clothing. The results of experiment as the follows : 1. There is only few body portions with the significant variance according to the increasing of he extra quantity at he body portion and the sleeve portion. 2. The clothing pressure of the sleeve portion was higher than the clothing pressure of the body portion. The difference of clothing pressure according to the variance of the extra quantity at the sleeve portion is more significant than the body portion. 3. Consider several important pressure points which wil be the No. 1 at the front of body portion. No. 17, 18 at the back of body portion and No. 21 at the sleeve portion. 4. It is important to have plane figure of gypsum when format an basis pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.12 no.1 s.26
• /
• pp.93-114
• /
• 1988

The purpose of this study was to develop pattern drafting methods of bodice, sleeve and skirt for Korean women at the age of 18 to 34. The study procedures and results were as follows; 1. 305 women aged 18 to 34 were measured on 49 items. 56 items including 49 measured and 7 calculated items were analyzed statistically. 2. New pattern drafting methods were developed based on the results of the data analysis. Basic shells constructed from the patterns were examined through fitting tests for completion. 3. The sensory test was applied to evaluate the new pattern for women by comparing it with one of the most used conventional patterns. An original rating scale was developed and used for the evaluation. According to a statistical analysis of the result of the 53 items on the questionnaire, all the items showed significant difference ($\alpha{\leqq}0.01$ or $\alpha{\leqq}0.05$) between the two, with the new pattern having higher scores. The new drafting method proved to be better fitted at all 53 items, and to be comfortable.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.17 no.2
• /
• pp.63-81
• /
• 2013

A Study using compare and analyze about differences among three patterns(shape and size of pattern, fitting and amount of air gap and so on) through 3D simulation. This study use 3D simulation program, DC Suite version 3.0. The results are as a follows: The results of estimation about total appearance, the pattern of Bunka is best of all pattern about total fitting and silhouette of front and back side. The pattern of armstrong and on&on stand low in estimation. As the total fitting, the pattern of Bunka is 4.40, the pattern of Armstrong is 2.60 and the pattern of On&on is 1.60. The result show better pattern of Bunka than pattern of Armstrong and On&on. When we examine about space between body and cloth, the pattern of Bunka is best. The pattern of Armstrong don't have problems about back side but front side have some problem of getting loose. Because it only have a waist dart so dart size is too big. The pattern of On&on have so much space because it don't have a waist dart. On the amount of air gap, the pattern of Bunka squash up body so it have the amount of air gap 0.08 at bust circumference and underbust circumference. Next is the pattern of Armstrong, amount of air gap is 0.14 at bust circumference and 0.23 at underbust circumference. The pattern of On&on's amount of air gap is 0.30 at bust circumference and 0.37 at underbust circumference. So the pattern of Bunka is bodice block of the best closing adhesion and the On&on is a loose-fitting pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.25 no.2
• /
• pp.13-23
• /
• 1987

The present study is undertaken to utilize the computer in pattern making of Jeugo-ris for women. The results are as follow: 1. Basic points which can be connected to depict basic pattern are represented with the numerical expreession and the curved lines consist of three types of arc. 2. The patterns of Jeugo-ris were automatically depicted by inputting the standard size(large, medium and small) and body measurements for bodice(bust girth, center back length, sleeve length). 3. This program includes the function of expressing the specific parts of patterns and of extending the patterns with or without standard lines.

• 한국생활과학회:학술대회논문집
• /
• 2010.05a
• /
• pp.113-114
• /
• 2010