• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.22-31
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• 2011

In this study, to develop a bodice pattern for women aged 18~24 years, statistical analysis was conducted using the body measurements from 2004 Size Korea and wearing test was conducted. As a result, ease of the bust level to set a horizontal line was decided to be 4cm, that of front interscye line 0cm, and that of back interscye line 0.7~1cm. And the line which divides the horizontal baseline into halves set as the side line. The conversion formula for decision of the scye depth line in the pattern is B/6 + 3.3(cm) + ease (2.5cm), and if bust circumference is 91 or more, it should be 21cm, and if bust circumference is 76 or less, it should be 18.5cm. The back neck line width is 7cm, front neck line width 6.5cm(back neck line width -0.5cm), and front neck depth 8cm(back neck line width +1cm). The shoulder slope was set as a slope of the hypotenuse of a right-angled triangle, which went out 15cm out of the shoulder point and went down 6cm, with tan$21.7^{\circ}$. To develop a final research pattern, wearing test was performed on the primary research pattern for 21 women aged 18~24 years. As a result, the research pattern was evaluated to be significantly higher.

• Journal of Korean Home Economics Education Association
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.45-59
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• 1993

The aims of this study are to develop CAI programs for bodice and sleeve pattern drafting for the 3rd grade students in a middle school and to compare the students’achievement degree in using traditional teaching method with that in using CAI programs. On the basis of results above the direction and possibility of using computers in education home economics is another aim. For this study, after the programs are developed, which is on the model of middle school text book, one hundred girl students of 2nd grade of middle school in Songpa Gu, Seoul, who have never given Bodice and Sleep Pattern Drafting lesson are chosen. The students are divided into two groups: one is called comparison group, which is taught by traditional method, the other, experimental group, which is taught by CAI programs. To evalute the learning achivement degree, evaluation test, effectiveness of learning and interest degree test and time test are given. Questionaire investigation about CAI program is given to experimental group. The results of this study are as follows: 1. CAI programs on pattern drafting are developed and can be used in the class. 2. In the tests of achievement degree, of effectiveness, and of interest the experimental group gets higher scores than the comparison group. 3. In the time test about how many students can draft the pattern in a given time, in every step more students in experimental group finished drafting than the comparison group. 4. The students showed interest in CAI programs and played an active part in the using computers. Therefore, using CAI programs in the class of pattern drafting saved the teachers lots of difficulties and enables individual learning improving the effectiveness of learning. I hope the studies of CAI will be established in other field as well as Home Economics, especially clothing part, and computers will be used lively

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.117-126
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• 2020

In this study, a 3D simulation program was used to produce a bodice prototype of a middle-aged male in their 40s and 50s and then analyze the appearance evaluation and airgap, sectional view, color distribution through virtual wearing to compare and analyze the differences between patterns. Through this, it was intended to provide basic data necessary for pattern development to companies that manufacture and produce clothing for middle-aged men. As a result of analyzing, J pattern was analyzed as the most suitable body shape pattern for middle-aged men. E pattern was too tight and L pattern and N pattern had too much spaces. However, J patternt was analyzed that correction was necessary in setting center back and center front length. The aging phenomenon in which the back is slightly bent forward and shoulders are also inclined is expected to appear, so it is necessary to adjust the front-to-back length, shoulder angle, and shoulder length. It is considered that after developing the research pattern by modifying J pattern, it is necessary to develop a body shape prototype for middle-aged men through actual clothing experiments on middle-aged men.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.6
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• pp.56-68
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• 2013

A purpose of this study is to do fundamental research of construction of coat patterns in the Daehan Empire in order to make replicas of the costumes. This study is composed of literature research, investigation of artifacts, and experiment of pattern making. The results of this study are as follows. First, even if the 15th Court Dress Rules regulated color, fabric, number of flower, width of braid, and size of button, there was no regulation regarding the shape of the coat. The analysis of the photos in those periods shows that the style of the tailcoat was different from that of today in the length of the front, the shape of breast and collar. Second, six artifacts in the collection showed that the shoulder line and the sideline were located on the further rear side than the current tailcoat. This can be confirmed in the western and Japanese pattern book, and especially the pattern drafting method in the books published in Japan in 1900s is different from current one in setting base lines of front bodice and back bodice. As a result, based on several experiments, this study proposes how to make coat patterns. The shoulder line, the sideline, and the princess line should be located in the back of the dress similar to the shape of swallowtail coats of 1900s. The front bodice should be constructed without the composition line in order to add embroidery on it. The collar, which shape looks like long half moon, should form V-shape neckline in the front breast when adjusting dress. The sleeves should be constructed top and down, and it should curve more than the modern design.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.63-81
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• 2013

A Study using compare and analyze about differences among three patterns(shape and size of pattern, fitting and amount of air gap and so on) through 3D simulation. This study use 3D simulation program, DC Suite version 3.0. The results are as a follows: The results of estimation about total appearance, the pattern of Bunka is best of all pattern about total fitting and silhouette of front and back side. The pattern of armstrong and on&on stand low in estimation. As the total fitting, the pattern of Bunka is 4.40, the pattern of Armstrong is 2.60 and the pattern of On&on is 1.60. The result show better pattern of Bunka than pattern of Armstrong and On&on. When we examine about space between body and cloth, the pattern of Bunka is best. The pattern of Armstrong don't have problems about back side but front side have some problem of getting loose. Because it only have a waist dart so dart size is too big. The pattern of On&on have so much space because it don't have a waist dart. On the amount of air gap, the pattern of Bunka squash up body so it have the amount of air gap 0.08 at bust circumference and underbust circumference. Next is the pattern of Armstrong, amount of air gap is 0.14 at bust circumference and 0.23 at underbust circumference. The pattern of On&on's amount of air gap is 0.30 at bust circumference and 0.37 at underbust circumference. So the pattern of Bunka is bodice block of the best closing adhesion and the On&on is a loose-fitting pattern.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.66-76
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• 2017

This study used a virtual wearing system equipped with body shape data with a 3D scanner, based on a female basic bodice, to develop a modified Hanbok Jeogori with high fitness capabilities to provide basic data for the development of the modified Hanbok Jeogori pattern for the academic and industrial fields. In this study, the representative modified Hanbok design which most frequently appeared in broadcasting ads and on line was selected. The wearing test was conducted by six professionals, and three times wearing tests were implemented based on 17 evaluation items. The data for this study was processed statistically using SAS 9.0. We conducted, the F-test for significance verification, the Duncan-test for a post test, and a correlation analysis of Cronbach's alpha coefficient for a reliability test of dressing test results were implemented for each of the three tests. The pattern of the developed modified Hanbok Jeogori overcame the defects of the short length of the conventional modified hanbok, and could fix the length issue. The developed Hanbok pattern solved the overlapping problem of the shoulder, back neck point-sleeve length(Whajang), and armhole, displayed in a straight line from the Godae point of the previous modified Hanbok; it suggested the position of the Seop and neck line in the basic bodice. Based on this, the Seop width, Git form, Goreum and the width, length, and position of the string whose dimensions can differ in accordance with the trend can be applied in various forms.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.634-644
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• 2021

This study aims to propose various ways to utilize CLO, which focuses mainly on the production of 3D virtual samples, by comparing it with the pattern drafting functions of Four apparel CAD experts, who have teaching experience in YUKA and CLO, participated in a focus group interview, and a basic bodice prototype drafting was carried out by each participant to evaluate the pattern drafting functions of YUKA and CLO. The result of this study showed that the pattern drafting tools of YUKA are subdivided since YUKA is a CAD tool inherently specialized in pattern making. Though CLO provided a relatively limited pattern drafting menu compared to YUKA, it was found that pattern drafting could be accomplished with the help of supplementary tools and functions. This finding suggests that each CAD offers the corresponding tools for the same use of menus or functions in the prototype drafting process. The major difference between YUKA and CLO is that YUKA defines the pattern area by a set of line segments, whereas CLO utilizes an outline composed of closed curves. YUKA provides various specific tools according to the options such as angles, straight lines, and curves, while CLO produces the same results using combinations of a limited number of tools. Compared with YUKA, the advantage of CLO is its user-friendly task environment such as the Windows-based user interface, from the usability perspective. This study concludes that pattern drafting education using CLO would help not only industrial 3D design practitioners but also pattern education in academia

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.713-721
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• 2018

This study aimed to develop a draping manual for the basic bodice to be available in colleges and industries. For this, draping methods mentioned in six different textbooks were comparatively analyzed. As for the research method, draping methods were compared by using training textbook, and basic bodices designed with muslin were assessed using the 5-point Likert scale. First, the draping methods of basic bodices were comparatively analyzed. The main baselines were set as the center front line, the center back line, the bust line, and the shoulder blade line. The position of dart was suggested based on the princess line, in both the front and the back. The value of dart was classified as a fixed size with any associated excess. The length of dart was set based on the bust point and shoulder blade point or a fixed size. The amount of ease was randomly set based on the fixed size, bust circumference, waist circumference, interscye length, armholes and shoulder lines, or the worker's intuition. Second, according to the appearance evaluation of the patterns, the following patterns obtained the highest scores: A pattern 2.5cm away from the B.P point of the waist dart and shoulder dart in the frontal appearance, a pattern of 0.6~0.7cm ease for the front armhole, a pattern with an ease of 1.2cm in the bust and 0.6cm in the waist. As for back appearance, the pattern in which the point of waist dart is 2~3cm from the bust line received the highest score.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.48 no.3
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• pp.563-575
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• 2024

This study analyzed 2D bodice sloper changes according to combinations of the lateral neck and shoulder points of a 3D mannequin's shoulder lines. The relationship between the 3D shape and 2D pattern was analyzed. The shoulder line was set to a default of 1cm in front of or behind the lateral neck point, 1cm in front or behind the lateral shoulder point and 1cm vertically above the lateral neck or shoulder point. When the lateral neck point was moved backward, the front neck depth, front and back shoulder height, and shoulder length in the 3D shape increased, whereas the back neck's depth and width decreased. In the 2D pattern, the back shoulder height decreased. As the lateral shoulder point moved backward, all items of the 3D shape showed little change. However, the front shoulder height for the 2D pattern decreased. Consequently, the back shoulder height increased, and the lateral neck point was raised vertically by 1cm. Meanwhile, only the back neck depth and shoulder length decreased while all other items increased; however, in the 2D pattern, the front neck width and shoulder line showed no notable change. The shoulder point was raised vertically by 1cm, and the front and back shoulder heights of the 3D shape and 2D pattern were decreased.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.99-110
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• 2022

This study attempted to develop a bodice prototype that is the basis for the production of upper body clothing for 20s plus-size women who have distinct characteristics from women with general body types. Through this, it was intended to provide basic data necessary for the development of plus-size women's clothing, which is revitalizing the market due to the increase in the obese population. Through the first evaluation of appearance and abdominal pressure, patterns such as moving the side neck, adding the amount of armhole dart, and adding the amount of sagging were modified. Through the second evaluation, corrections such as vertical side lines, reduction of the neck of the back center line, and adding the amount of armhole darts were performed. Through the third evaluation, the final pattern drafting method was developed by vertically modifying the side line and adding the amount of back armhole darts. In the case of 20s plus-size female body types, a drafting method distinguished from the general body type was required in the method of setting the side and hem due to the protrusion of the abdomen. This study can be said to be meaningful in that it proposed a bodice prototype drafting method suitable for the body type of 20s plus-size women. In the follow-up study, it is thought that the wearability should be evaluated through actual garment wearing.