• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.5
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• pp.73-87
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to find the Dart Manipulation with good fitting and evaluate the aesthetics of Dart Manipulation that is used in the designs of the original tops for women in their 30's. Subsequently, it suggests dart manipulation with good body fitting and physical fitness when designing original tops. The findings of this study are as follows. First, in the fitting of Dart Manipulation for different body types, cross direction Dart Manipulation received good marks in the Square Body Type while mixed direction and diagonal direction Dart Manipulation received high evaluation in the Standard Body Type. Also, for the Reverse Triangle Body Type, mixed direction Dart Manipulation received high marks. Since there are only small changes in fitting for the Square Body Type, the position of Dart Manipulation should be determined in regards to the aesthetic view as well as the fitting of the Standard Body Type and Reverse Triangle Body Type. Second, in the fitness of Dart Manipulation for different body types, an approach from the aesthetic view should be considered for Square Body Types because of the differences in fitness according to the position of dart manipulation. The fitness should be considered when positioning Dart Manipulation for the Standard Body Type and Reverse Triangle Body Type because of these differences. Third, for the greater variance of drop for these different body types, the change of the amount of dart received lower evaluation in fitting since the amount of dart increased when the dart was located higher than B.P. The number of dart should likely increase when gathering or tucking is necessary when there is an excessive amount of dart in Dart Manipulation for the different body types. Fourth, as for the changes of wrinkles in accordance with the body type, wrinkles were likely to be formed at the breast or neck area when there was a larger difference in drop. To prevent such problems, one more dart should be made on the wrinkle. In conclusion, the study suggests designing the original top with a better look and comfort by setting the balance between aesthetics and fitting in the design stage.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.73-87
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• 2018

As men in their 30s are spending more money on clothing, it is becoming increasingly important to first conduct an anthropometric study and then develop garment patterns accommodating the changes found in body sizes and types of men in their 30s, in order to effectively address their fit dissatisfaction. Thus this study aims to explore changes in upper body sizes and body types of men in their 30s, which provide basic measurements for designing major garment items including jackets and shirts. To this purpose, key anthropometric dimensions of the upper body of men in their 30s, taken from the 6th (2015) and 7th (2016) surveys conducted by Size Korea, were analyzed using SPSS 24.0 for Windows. Independent sample t-tests were conducted on major upper body sizes to track changes with measuring time. Factor and cluster analyses were used to classify body types. By comparing the two surveys, it was found that the overall body sizes of men in their 30s were increasing in height-related items, circumference, thickness, and width, -as well as body weight and BMIs. Upper body height-related items, in particular, showed a higher average value in the 6th survey than in the 7th, indicating that the overall body types of men are becoming "westernized" with longer legs and shorter torso. Finally, five factors were derived to determine the typical upper body types of men in their 30s and the body types were classified into three categories according to the cluster analysis. First, those with a relatively small build with short stature and torso. Second, those with the highest stature and vertical dimension with the smallest torso volume and least body fatness. Third, those with the biggest torso volume and most body fatness with bigger width between armpits and shoulders. The distributional pattern analysis showed that men in their 30s tend to have increasingly higher stature but lower body weight and BMIs than in the past, implying that their body types are becoming close to those of men in their 20s.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.41
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• pp.185-206
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• 1998

The purpose of this study was to improve productivity for maximum effects with the present equipments and staff. This study compared and analyzed the mea-sured time by using stop watch method and MTM, which was the new measuring method. The flow and results of this study were as follows: 1. This study investigated the theoretical background the efficiency for production management, and the way of productivity improvement through documentary research. 2. Setting up the standard flow on the experi-mental company production, making out a process chart and measuring the actual working hour. 3. The study measured the allowance time applying work sampling. 4. Each process of the movement analysis was filmed by video to use basic data. 5. MTM analysis was taken by choosing 10 processes from front bodice according to the basic movement of MTM. Through the results, this study exclude unneccesary movements and suggest a method for working ways. 6. Using the actual working hour measured by a stop watch calculated the pitch time and presumed the amount of daily productivity. 7. The result of the work sampling came out as 38% of allowance rate. It was 13% higher than the standard amount of woman's jacket allowance rate, which was 25%. The most influencing factor was work discussion. That was because there were commuication problem of the work way between the operator and leader. More adequate use of flow table and level passing table was needed. There were the problems that inappropriate places and sizes made the distance of movements longer and often needed more adjustment of works and surroundings. To prevent breakdowns equipments check ups were necessary before works. 8. The results of MTM analysis were as follow : the time was reduced 40% than the actual measured time by a stop watch. This was because the leveling of the operator was included in the real calculation. Also, leveling was included in MTM analysis and all the conditions were standarized. Therefore MTM method was a scientidic measuring way of establishing the standard time. The presented method of this study, suggested an ideal method eliminating unneccesary motions, and presented standardization of works. Improvement of working methods, work condition and simplifying motions in each 10 processes reduced the working time from total 656 seconds to 301 seconds. 9. The way and time of working was linked together in the MTM analysis methods. Thus data from MTM help suggest not only establishing standard time but also establishing stan-dard work. Plus it includes various ability for improvements of working ways. So it is an objective method which can be widely used in other work studies. 10. The function of a time study is to determine the amount of work produced with a given method. The work rate is used to establish the cost of labor. The wage of worker must be calculated per unit time which is deter-mined before the time study is made. This study tried to introduce the incentive rule for deciding wages according to the standard time by MTM method.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.415-428
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• 2004

The purpose of this thesis was to develop torso patterns according to the physical types of men in 20s. The procedure and results are as follows; 1. Of the men in 20s meeting the national average of physique, 4 men were selected and classified into 2 physical types according to their chest and waist circumference drops. One group had 20㎝ drop (Y type) while the other had 16㎝ drop (N type). Through evaluation performed by clothing construction professionals on the 4 upper bodice blocks drafted according to the existent drafting method and dressed on the 4 men, several problems have been found. These problems were adjusted and supplemented to make two new blocks. The fit of the new blocks were evaluated and proved to be satisfactory. 2. The following is the adjustments made to the existent men's torso patterns which had been utilized as the objects the first evaluation experiment. ① Though the back waist length of the pattern from the existent drafting method covered the center back length of the body in both Y type and N type, the front length did not causing it to stand away from the body. To adjust this, 2.0㎝ has been added to the center front length of each pattern so that the waist line could make a bar level to the ground. ② The shoulder line of the pattern from the existent drafting method had the tendency to fall backward. To make the shoulder line to fall in place, it has been moved 1.0㎝ to the front. 0.5㎝ has been added to the should length. ③ The neckline had a tendency to climb up. It has been lowered by 0.5㎝ until the line touched the center front neck point. ④ Though different in degree, the neck circumference did not allow enough width for both physique type causing the neckline to pull at side neck point with diagonal crease. To adjust this, 0.3㎝ and 0.6㎝ has been added to the Y type and N type respectively so that the neckline would touch the side neck point and the neckline could naturally fall into its original position. ⑤ Though different in degree, there was not enough space at the armhole causing wrinkles around this area. Therefore, 0.25㎝ and 0.5㎝ has been added to the front and back of the armholes of the Y and N types respectively. The armhole was made 1.0㎝ deeper only for the N type. ⑥ 1.0㎝ in the front and 0.5㎝ in the back were added to the side scam for the Y type while 0.5㎝ in the front and 0.25㎝ in the back were added for N type. This eliminated the unwanted wrinkles to give the silhouette a smooth look.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.38
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• pp.305-321
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• 1998

The costume style of the Chosun dynasty changed greatly after Imjinwaeran (the Japanese Invasion of Chosun Korea, 1592∼1598). Most of the extant costumes come from the late Chosun, but some costumes produced be-fore Imjinwaeran have been excavated, and in addition, information on these older constumes is contained in contemporary literature. Of especial value in the study of pre-Imjinwaeran Chosun constumes is a mid-sixteenth century palace painting depicting the worship of Buddha, a painting in the collection of the Ho-Am Art Museum in Seoul. The present study of costume during the middle Chosun dynasty focuses on this painting, and compares it with other contemporary palace paintings, and with other contemporary palace paintings, and with Nectar Ritual Paintings. The following conclusion were drawn : * Concerning woman's hair styles of the time, married women wore a large wig. Un-married women braided their hair, and then either let it fall down their back or wore it coiled on top of their head. * The major characteristic of woman's costumes was a ample, tube-like silhouette, with the ratio of the Jeogori(Korean woman's jacket) and skirt being one-to-one. * The style of Jeogori in the painting was like that of excavated remains. Some Jeogoris were simple (without decoration), while some Jeogoris were worn with red sashes. Here we can confirm the continuity of ancient Korean costumes with those of the sixteenth century * Although the skirt covered the ankles, it did not touch the ground. Because the breadth of the skirt was not wide, it seems to have been for ordinary use. Colors of skirts were mainly white or light blue. * All men in the painting wore a headdress. Ordinary men, not Buddhist monks, wore Bok-du (headstring), Chorip (straw hat), or Heuk-rip (black hat). In this painting, men wore a Heukrip which had a round Mojeong (crown). * The men wore sashes fastened around their waist to close their coats, which was different from the late Chosun, in which men bound their sashes around their chest. That gave a ration of the bodice of the coat to the length of the skirt of one-to-one, which was consistent with that of woman's clothing. * In this painting, we cannot see the Buddhist monk's headdress that appeared later in the Chosun, such as Gokkal (peaked hat), Songnak (nun's hat), and Gamtu (horsehair cap). These kinds of headdresses, which appeared in paintings from the seventeenth century, were worn widely inside or outside the home. Buddhist monks wore a light blue long coat, called Jangsam (Buddhist monk's robe) and wore Gasa (Buddhist monk's cope), a kind of ceremonial wrap, round their body. We can see that the Gasa was very splendid in the early years of the Chosun dynasty, a continuing tradition of Buddhist monk's costumes from the Koryo dynasty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.11
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• pp.1426-1437
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• 2004

The study has an objective of providing the basic data for the bodice basic pattern that is highly appropriate after classifying the torso shapes of women in 60s. In order to classify the torso shape, 200 women in 60s that reside in Seoul were investigated for 52 tests. The factor analysis produced total of 6 factors. Factor 1 tended to be posture of upper part of torso and shape of shoulder. Factor 2 was an element of silhouette and Factor 3 was vertical size of lower part of torso and side silhouette. Factor 4 showed to be width and thickness of torso, Factor 5 was shape of neck, and Factor 6 appeared to be sagging of belly and buttocks. Therefore, it can be known that posture, silhouette, shape of neck and shoulder, sagging of belly and buttocks, and etc. are important factors for classification of the torso shape of women in 60s. Through a cluster analysis, each torso shape was classified into 4 types and each type showed information on size, shape, and posture clearly. Type 1 showed percentage of 24.2%, and values of height and weight showed to be average. Also, the body shape hardly had any curve with high shoulder at the Posture of upper body, and they had saggy stomach and buttocks. 43.5% of them were involved in Type 2 and they were short and overweighted. They were comparatively large in width compared to the height with no curves. Type 2 had the largest percentage and this can be said to be the special shape of women in 60s. People of Type 3 were short and overweighted just like Type 2 and all the sizes were similar to those of Type 2 or bigger. The posture is right posture and 21.7％ fall into this type and there is no body curve. This type is the shortest and most overweighted type, and it is a torso shape with right posture just like Type 4. Type 4 is a torso shape with tallest height and least weight. The percentage was the smallest(10.6％) and the width was smaller than any other type but the height was the tallest. The body curve is very clear and they have thin body but big buttocks so it can be said that the people of this type have the best silhouette. Type 2 that had the highest percentile is short and overweighted so it can be said that Type 2 is the representative torso shape of women in 60s.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.129-147
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to survey and analyze domestic fashion education institution's program on apparel prototype and thereupon, address the problems and find their solutions, and thereby, provide for some basic data useful to improve the basic patterns of apparel and ultimately, help reinforce the professional and practical apparel design education. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. 85.1% of the subjects finished graduate or higher courses. Almost all of the college and junior college teachers finished graduate or higher courses, while only 31.6% of those teaching at technical institutes finished graduate or higher courses. Such a finding suggests that colleges tend to employ their faculty members based on their academic background but that technical institutes value the practical ability of their faculty more. 2. As a result of surveying the types of basic patterns used by teachers, it was found that 72.3% of them were using two or more patterns. The basic pattern preferred most by our teachers was Japanese culture institute's type (71.3%), followed by the US FIT type (24.5%), Lim Won-Ja's type (22.3%), French ESMOD type (17.0%). 96.3% of our apparel design students were making their basic patterns as instructed by their teachers. 3. 67.0% of our students were using their conceived sizes for production of their basic patterns, 14.9% were referring to the ready-made sizes, 8.5% were relying on their teachers' individual experiences, and 9.6% were using their own cord sizes. In order to survey the difference between teachers' sizes (ready-made sizes or individual experienced ones) and business sizes used, the basic body measurements used for ready-made apparels were surveyed to be compared with the national standard body sizes set in 1997 for women aged between 18 and 24. As a result, it was found that the ready-made sizes used for apparel production prototypes than teachers' ones were nearer the national standard sizes. Such a finding suggests that it may well be necessary for teachers to be more connected with the apparel businesses and thereby, teach their students in a more realistic way with correct information. 4. 83.0% of the subject teachers were tacking their basic patterns to be well fitting, and 76.9% of these teachers were tacking the patterns in reference with students' individual body sizes. In all, 97.4% of the subject teachers were guiding the tacking process, which suggests that the flat patternmaking is taught primarily for customized apparels. As a result of comparing the fitness of basic patterns with those of each body part, it was found that teachers were most dissatisfied with the fitness of shoulders and arm hole depth. Therefore, it will be necessary to reclassify the body types or find other drawing techniques to improve the fitness of such body parts. Nevertheless, teachers were willing much (4.18) to develop their own educational basic patterns for themselves. Lastly, it is hoped that this study will be followed up by future studies on educational prototypes covering diverse body shapes and those on practical implementations of those prototypes for students.