• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.79-88
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• 2022

In order to develop a bodice prototype suitable for obese women in their 20s, this study compared and analyzed a total of five pattern system methods, including prototype of France and Japan, one prototype for education in Korea and two prototype for industries in Korea. Through this, this study attempted to investigate the bodice pattern system suitable for the development of plus-size women's clothing. For the pattern drafting, pattern 1 was applied with the most body dimensions such as interscye fold front, interscye fold back, bust circumference, neck circumference, and waist back length, and pattern 2, pattern 4, and pattern 5 were made based on bust circumference and waist back length. As a result of the appearance evaluation, Pattern 3 was evaluated as the best pattern in all items except for the suitability of the center front length and the suitability of the side waist circumference position. However, it was evaluated as inappropriate in items such as the vertical side line, the suitability of the side waist circumference line position, the suitability of interscye fold back position and shape, and the suitability of the back shoulder dart position. Most of the pattern drafting methods are based on the size of the bust circumference, but other institutional methods are considered necessary when setting the neck circumference and shoulder length for 20s obesity women. In addition, it is also required to develop a method for setting the front center length due to abdominal protrusion.

• 한국생활과학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2010.05a
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• pp.113-114
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• 2010

• 한국생활과학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2010.05a
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• pp.115-116
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• 2010

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.12 no.1 s.26
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• pp.93-114
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• 1988

The purpose of this study was to develop pattern drafting methods of bodice, sleeve and skirt for Korean women at the age of 18 to 34. The study procedures and results were as follows; 1. 305 women aged 18 to 34 were measured on 49 items. 56 items including 49 measured and 7 calculated items were analyzed statistically. 2. New pattern drafting methods were developed based on the results of the data analysis. Basic shells constructed from the patterns were examined through fitting tests for completion. 3. The sensory test was applied to evaluate the new pattern for women by comparing it with one of the most used conventional patterns. An original rating scale was developed and used for the evaluation. According to a statistical analysis of the result of the 53 items on the questionnaire, all the items showed significant difference ($\alpha{\leqq}0.01$ or $\alpha{\leqq}0.05$) between the two, with the new pattern having higher scores. The new drafting method proved to be better fitted at all 53 items, and to be comfortable.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.59-71
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• 2011

As an exaggerated-shoulder becomes a growing trend women's clothing, the crescent shaped sleeve with parallel style lines in the arm hole is a highly used women's sleeve pattern. This study develops and provides an applicable method for making the crescent shaped power shoulder sleeve. An efficient basic method for making the 2 piece crescent shaped sleeve was developed and the sensory appearance test was carried out with experimental clothes. There are two principles for making the crescent shaped sleeve: having a style line in the sleeve and pasting part of the cut arm hole of the bodice to the sleeve. The latter would be more convenient for a 2 piece sleeve, mostly used for jackets. The crescent shaped sleeve used in power shoulder jackets should set the shoulder angle as you wish to extend and raise the shoulder point of the bodice and sleeve to the same height. For a stronger power shoulder image, a 3 piece sleeve has a better appearance. Also, the height of the shoulder has to be enhanced with a shoulder pad for a more stable sleeve.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.130-158
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• 1997

This study outputs calculation of regression of each items for production of torso basic pattern according to 6 body types as the result of another study and intends to present drawing method of torso model by short measure method modified and supplied and supplied by experiments of wearing clothing. SAS(Statistical Analysis System) is used for figures management and methods for analysis used are Frequency Analysis, Means Analysis, Regression Analysis, Correlation Analysis, etc. Results are as follows. 1. Correlation analysis is used to output the size necessary for torso prototype drawing by sort measure method and waist front length, back length, crotch length, shoulder point-cerricale-shoulder point, bust circumference, waist circumference, weight, etc, are set up as representative items calculation of regression of each type is suggested. 2. In the result of experiment of the first wearing clothing intended for 5 in each type and the whole 30, to develop torso prototype drawing method by short measure method, as we find some problems of the shape and propriety of neck root circumference line, the position of shoulder point, pulling or hold armpit parts, waist circumference line, the degree of dissatisfaction is high, so the second experiment of wearing clothing is propriety of each part is improved, all items except the length and quantity of shoulder dart, waist in back bodice, clearance quantity of hip circumference, and the place of shoulder line in side bodice. So, it was modifed and supplied and then the third torso prototyped drawing method by shout measure method was suggested. The third prototype drawing method was suggested, by modifying and supplying.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.617-627
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• 2010

This study selected and compared 7 tailored collar making factors from 15 clothing construction university textbooks. According to the results, in 15 clothing construction textbooks, the neckline of a tailored collar was drawn at the same length as the back neck circumference of the bodice and the length of collar stand was 3cm in 10 textbooks. In addition, the length of the collar laying varied between 2cm and 4.5cm regardless of the width of the upper collar or the textile thickness. In 7 out of the 15 textbooks, the gorge line of the collar was drawn by illustrating the collar pattern on the bodice based on the roll line and then copying it symmetrically. On the other hand, the pattern of upper collar was made in 5 ways; and 2 books did not give any explanation in the sections dealing with patterns or sewing. In addition, 6 textbooks explained that inner and outer collars are sewn with a difference. The lapel pattern of the facing part was made in 4 ways; in addition, 3 textbooks did not provide an explanation and 4 books explained that the difference is given in the sewing. The textile thickness and elasticity need to be considered in collar pattern making; however, they were not specifically mentioned in most of the textbooks.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.3
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• pp.13-24
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to examine the changes brought by the upper body form using a three-dimensional human body measurement the gypsum method. The developed plane figure was constructed using paper replica to analyze the dimensional shape of the upper torso and to be able to design clothes suitable for elderly women's physical characteristics. The characteristics are analyzed and compared with existing patterns in order to extract the components for the pattern design. The examination was carried out based on the developed plane figures of upper body surface replicas. Type 1, the bent-forward body form, has a wide gap on the shoulder. In Type 2, the gap of waist line was wide at angulus scapulae point. Type 3 was the thin body form, and the girth of the chest, front interscye breadth and back interscye breadth were more level with one another, compared to the other types. In Type 4, the bent-backward body form, there was a wide gap on front shoulder. Comparison with the developed plane figure and existed pattern, items revealed differences in significance included the front and back interscye width between the measured values of the existed patterns and the developed plane figure. Therefore, the basic components of basic bodice pattern for old women were determined in the up-bust circumference and length of the back.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.29
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• pp.117-126
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• 1996

As the current stage of the fashion begins to follow the styles of the past the study on the past costume is getting more importance and as the methodolgy of the study the accu-rately approached study through the rehabili-tation of the past cosume is more needed than the simple rearrangement of the historical documents. By this methodology this study can be positioned as a re-creation activity. The results of the study are as follows. 1) Style: The general silhouette is the style to emphasize the waist and to widen skirt at the lower part of the body. The front shows hourglass silhouette but the side shows S-line silhouette. The dress is two-piece composed of bodice and skirt. 2) Color and Fabric: The main color is dull powder blue end the sub color is ivory. The dress is made of wool crepe and cotton and partly silk crepe satin and taffeta. 3) Pattern and sewing: The dress is combined with lining and fabrics, The patterns. or overbodice. The skirt is gored skirt. The skirt is gored skirt. The dress has various effect not only to decorate but also to conceal seams support hemlines nd affect the depth and length of front panel. 4) Datail: The braid black velvet ribbon frill and tucks in bodice skirt sleeves front panel collar cuffs are repeatedly used to dec-orate the dress. Finally the 1902-3 day dress has the characteristics of transitional stag in which the chatacteristics of the costume of 1900s and the remnants of the characteristics of the pre-vious costume style and shows the charac-teristics of day dress well in terms of the style color and fabric pattern and sewing and detail.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.64-73
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• 2015

This paper examines the characteristics of Hungarian women's costumes under the Reign of the Habsburg Empire in the $19^{th}$ Century. Since the beginning of the $19^{th}$ century, the Habsburg Empire inflicted strong oppression on Hungary. Under the influence of the European upper class, exaggerated and sumptuous costumes were fashionable in the Hungarian Aristocracy. They preferred blouses decorated with colorful embroidery, pleated sleeves, gorgeous beads and lace, long pleated skirts with velvet borders, corsets decorated with delicate embroidery, coats adorned with lace, and capes. However, Hungarian nationalists protested against the Habsburg Empire's oppression; consequently, Hungarian national costumes expressed a sense of resistance and solidarity. The results of the study are as follows. The Hungarian women's costumes were different from women's costumes of the Habsburg Empire in regards to headdress, bodice, apron, pattern and shoes. The Hungarian women's headdress consists of the parta and veil. The bodice is richly adorned with colorful embroidery and differs from skirts in color and material. The Hungarian women's apron is distinct from the Habsburg Empire as a unique Hungarian item. Finally, Hungarian costumes are characterized by the Oriental pattern and short boots with metal heels.