• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.1-16
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• 2009

Ip-yeong or gat-keun decorate heuk-rip, supplementing its simplicity. When the wind blew, a dynamic beauty was created, especially if the gat-keun was made with long straps of jade or silk. Basically, ip-yeong was a practical chin strap to hold the gat tight on the head. Commoners made ip-yeong by folding cotton cloth or fine gauze. However, as available materials became diversified, people used cloth, jade, agate, amber, coral, gold medallion, rock crystal and bamboo as well, juk-yeong, which was made with bamboo, became popular especially when Heungsun Daewon-gun, the father of King Kojong, decreed that people wear simple clothes. Most records concerning ip-yeong in Chosun-wangjo-shillok, the authentic record of the Joseon Dynasty, are related to forbidding a sumptuous life. The book also suggests that ip-yeong was bestowed by the king or was offered to foreign diplomats as gifts. Ip-yeong doesn't seem to be a unique system for Korea. Based on portraits or paintings where ip-yeong can be found, it seems to have been widely used during the Yuan dynasty and the Goryeo dynasty. The system disappeared in China as the Ming Dynasty was established, but it remained in use in the Korean Goryeo dynasty and through the Joseon. Literature suggests that the same materials were used for ip-yeong from the beginning of Joseon to the end of the dynasty. Guyeongja refers to a ring that connects an ipja to a chin strap. Guyeongja made with silver, bronze and jade still remain. In gungjungbalgi, the royal court inventory book, records of imogarye can be found (1882), where ten pairs of pure gold strap rings and ten pairs of gold-plated ones were used for a royal wedding.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.185-205
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• 2015

The modern trend in costumes, influenced by postmodernism, is to use of various patterns and images borrowed from diverse cultures of many ethnic groups. The Yi tribe studied in this paper is miner ethnic group in China, whose traditional costume is very splendid and modern. In addition, its embroidery or $appliqu{\acute{e}}$ pattern have a high artistic value in that its shapes are diverse, splendid and each one has its own peculiar elegance. As for the research method, I examined the Yi tribe's history, culture, traditional costumes and patterns through related books, research papers and inter web sites. As for the result, the Yi tribe's costumes consisted of a jacket, trousers or a skirt, an apron and a belt. Although the favorite color of the costume is black color, there are splendid embroidery or $appliqu{\acute{e}}$ decorations with the colors of red, yellow, green and purple on the chest or shoulder part of a jacket, the adjusting lines, cuffs or a part of a trousers and aprons. Patterns in their traditional clothing also show details that depict traditional cultural ideas that have long been formed in various fields, such as aesthetics, religion, philosophy, and customs. Moreover, most patterns displayed in their traditional clothing contain nature motifs and represent unique and beautiful designs; some patterns are even reminiscent of abstract paintings by modern artists. In conclusion, the traditional patterns of Chinese ethnic minorities reflect the values and notions of these races as well as decorative magnificence and a unique spiritual image. In other words, traditional patterns indicate the spiritual depth or symbolic stories beyond mere formative beauty.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.229-244
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• 2010

This study aims to discuss the type and characteristics of primitivism in the modern fashion of the $21^{st}$ century and, as a research method, the concept of primitivism as well as the transition of the patterns of primitivism expressed in modern art have been considered and reviewed through a variety of references. In particular, an empirical analysis of the works that have been created from 2000 to 2009 has been performed using domestic and overseas fashion and collection magazines. The characteristics of primitivism in modern fashion possess the following types of expression: First, Sensuality can be cited as one of the characteristics, either by using direct or indirect exposure of the human body, a silhouette which fits tightly to the body, or creating the effect of sensual beauty using animal fur or bird feathers. Second, Incantation: Masks symbolizing primitive incantation are used to cover the human face or primitive incantation is incorporated as a theme of hair accessories or fashion trinkets, etc. In addition, such decorations as tattoos and the body colorations of ancient tribes are reproduced in modern fashion by means of body painting, printing or other accessories, emphasizing the image of occult primitiveness. Third, Naturalness can be cited as one of the characteristics. Naturalness is emphasized in modern fashion not through artificial decorations and processing, but rather through different patterns of exposure by which natural purity can be felt or through the use of non-artificial materials which recalls primitive civilization. Forth, Playfulness is expressed in the form of graffiti or abstract letters and paintings, and the character of the play is often expressed by the use of grotesque images based on various distortions and exaggerations of the human body, the utilization of symbols of primitive incantation and body and/or facial painting. Fifth, Lastly 'folkishness is emphasized. Folk-like objects, facial decorations, exposure of the body and intense color contrasts typically represent the folkish characteristics.

• 복식
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• 제55권1호
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• pp.113-128
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• 2005

To find our own individuality, there must be an active study on jeogori which is an unexplored field. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to consider artistic beauty and predominance of jeogori and recognize it as a precious culture, and also encourage interest about traditions. The range of this study is ancient times to Chosun dynasty, and in this study which will be the first part, the range is till the era of the Three Kingdoms. The study about jeogori is based on mural paintings of Goguryeo burial mounds, clay dolls and remains during Shilla, Beakjae, and United-shilla era. The contents of this study is 1. research the origin of jeogori's detail structures and changes of the form, 2. analyze the form and structure of the jeogori in each era, and therefore 3. find the predominance of Goguryeo costume by considering functional and design aspects. Therefore the conclusion of this study about the era of the Three Kingdoms are First, jeogori of the three kingdom era were developed from ancient times caftan style which Korea, China and Japan wore all together. Second, the structure of the jeogori during the Three Kingdom are ryeongeum, gil, somae and seon. Third, there is a special line that starts from the neckline and ends at the hem line which should be called ryeongeum in my opinion. Forth, while researching Goguryeo murals there were both left and right sided open jeogori. therefore, I would like to set up a new theory that during the ancient times to Three Kingdom era, not did China's clothing effected the Korean costume but the costume in east asia shared their forms all together.

• 디지털융복합연구
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• 제17권10호
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• pp.405-410
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• 2019

본 연구는 도예의 한 분야로서 생칠과 도기가 결합한 형태인 칠도의 공예기법 및 디자인적 융합에 대한 일차적 분석이다. 먼저 칠도의 역사 및 현재의 현황을 제시하고 칠도 장식의 기법을 세 가지로 분류하고 각 기법이 가지는 특징을 간단히 분석하여 제시한다. 칠도는 도자가 가지는 성형 상의 자유로움과 칠예가 도자에 부여하는 표면의 안정성 및 그 표면 장식의 디자인 소재 및 방식의 다양성을 가지고 있어서 일상 용기로서의 실용성 및 예술작품으로서의 미감을 동시에 지니고 있다. 다만 일상용품으로 대량생산하는 데는 어려움이 있어 현재는 예술작품으로서 여러 시도가 이루어지고 있다. 이런 시도를 통해 일반 상품에도 미적 감수성을 높이고 문화적 다양성을 만들 수 있다.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.9-14
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• 2006

민화나 고화에 많이 등장하는 호랑나비나 제비나비형태의 그림은 다수 있지만 한자 문화권이라 그런지 '나비'라는 말은 늦게 나타난다. 나비라는 말은 나불나불 나는 모습에서 유래되었다고 하는데, 고서에 호접(胡蝶:범나비), 황접(黃蝶:노랑나비) 등으로 나타나다가 1481년에 나온 두시언해(杜詩諺解)에서 나비 또는 나뵈로, 1527년에 나온 훈몽자회(訓夢字會)에는 나뵈로, 숙종 시대(1675$\sim$1720)에 나온 시몽언해물명(時夢諺解物名)에는 남이로 나온다. 그 후로는 나?????? 또는 나비로 불러오다가 현재 나비가 표준말이 되어 쓰여 지고 있다. 아직도 지방에 따라서는 나부 또는 나베라고 부르는 곳도 있다. 나비는 연인의 사랑 기쁨 행운 장수 영원 등의 의미와 아름다운 자태에 마음이 끌려 예로부터 시와 그림으로 표현되어 그 아름다움을 감상하거나, 공예품, 장신구등에 응용되어 왔다. 본 연구는 이러한 나비의 형태와 색채를 분석하고 수용성 부직포를 이용한 누비 응용기법을 적용하여 나비의 형태미, 날개시맥의 섬세한 조형미를 표현하였으며 가볍고 드레이프성이 좋은 기본소재를 사용함으로서 나비의 날개 짓이 주는 율동적 움직임을 용이하게 표현될 수 있도록 하였다. 이에 본 연구는 상기의 표현 기법이 나비 이미지의 미적표현에 적합함과 아울러 디자인 전개에 무한한 잠재력을 가지고 있음을 제시하고자 한다. 연구 결과 나비 날개 윤곽선의 부드러운 곡선은 인체의 선적 조형미에 잘 부합되어 의상과 인체가 조화롭게 결합될 수 있다는 것을 알 수 있었다. 또한 누비 응용 기법이 가진 특성들이 소재 표현기법으로 다양화 될 수 있음을 깨달았으며 누비 기법의 응용을 통한 혼합기법이 의상에 적용됨으로서 오뜨 꾸뛰르(Haute Couture) 적인 고급스러운 작품으로 전개될 수 있음을 알게 되었다.

• 한국전통조경학회지
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• 제35권1호
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• pp.10-24
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• 2017

관동팔경의 형성과정에 주목하여, 문헌 및 도상자료의 분석과 해석을 통해 관동 명승의 집경에 따른 팔경 형상화 및 정착시기를 탐색한 본 연구의 결론은 다음과 같다. '관동팔경(關東八景)'이란 최초 용례(用例)는 이황의 "답홍응길(答洪應吉)"로 볼 때, 관동팔경은 이미 16세기 이전 당시 인들의 인식 속에 존재하였을 것으로 추론된다. "신증동국여지승람"을 비롯한 지리지 분석 결과, 관동팔경은 16세기 초 중반에 관동십경으로의 확장 또한 이루어졌다. 최초의 관동팔경에 대한 집경은 신즙의 "영관동팔경(詠關東八景)"으로 확인됨에 따라 관동팔경이라는 용어는 문학 분야에서는 최소한 16세기 이전부터 존재하였으며 현재의 세트화된 관동팔경으로 정착된 시기는 늦어도 17세기 초반이라 추정된다. 관동 명승의 출현빈도 분석 결과, 시문에 등장한 관동 명승은 관동팔경 경물에 대한 집중현상이 뚜렷하였다. 한편 회화 분야에서 오로지 관동팔경만을 모은 그림은 허필의 "관동팔경도병(關東八景圖屛)"에서 최초로 확인되는데 실경산수화에서 표현된 관동팔경은 시문에서의 집경 양상과 유사한 경향을 보이지만 화제 출현률 순위로 볼 때 시각적 결속력과 응집성이 더욱 강하게 드러났다 이는 일정한 관념체계 상 특정 의의를 지닌 회화의 도상(圖像)을 중요시하는 특성이 반영된 결과로 판단된다. 더불어 조선 후기에서 근대에 들어 제작된 다수의 민화 형식의 팔폭병풍(八幅屛風)은 관동팔경의 문화현상이 보편적 수용기에 접어들었음을 알리는 증좌이다. 또한 조선후기 성행한 남승도놀이 등 명승유람놀이에 등장하는 강원도내 13개의 명승에는 관동팔경이 오롯이 나타나고 있음을 볼 때 조선 말기 관동팔경은 놀이문화 속에서도 확고하게 정착된 것으로 보인다. 이와 같은 결과를 종합할 때, 관동팔경의 인식은 15세기 전반 이전부터 있어 온 것으로 보이고, 16세기 형상화 과정의 지속적 전개를 통해 17세기 정착되었으며 18세기에 들어 관습화 보편화 된 것으로 추정된다. 궁극적으로 관동팔경은 고려시대부터 별개의 경물로 명성을 얻은 지역 명승이 17세기 후반 구체적으로 형상화되었음을 알 수 있다. 관동 명승 중에 관동팔경은 오랜 기간 여러 사람의 탐승과 유람문화 향유(享有)를 통해 오직 여덟 개의 최상의 명소만을 추리기 위한 절차탁마(切磋琢磨)의 과정을 거쳐 형성되고 배태된 국내 대표적 팔경임을 일깨워준다.

• 문화기술의 융합
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• 제9권5호
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• pp.255-262
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• 2023

고창 서화는 20세기 초에 들어서 사호 송수면(宋修勉, 1847-1916)의 제자이자 한때는 양자였던 염재 송태회(念齋 宋泰會, 1872~1941)가 고창으로 이주하며 초석을 다졌고 본격적인 흐름이 시작되었다고 볼 수 있다. 염재는 전남 화순 출신으로 조선 말기와 근대기의 학자이자 서화가로서 고향인 화순과 고창을 중심으로 한문과 서화 교육자로 근무하면서 창작활동을 하며 고창 서화의 초석을 다진 인물이다. 어려서부터 총명하였으며 서예에 남다른 재능을 보였다. 16세에는 진사시에 합격(동몽진사)하여 최연소로 성균관에서 수학하였다. 그러나 강직한 성품의 그는 구한말 부정부패의 만연과 외세의 침략 등으로 인해 크게 낙담하여 세상을 등지고 낙향하여 서화로 시름을 달래었다. 고창과 전주를 기반으로 전국에서 전시회를 개최하며 활발하게 활동하였고, 민족정신과 역사를 배양시키기 위해 고창고등보통학교(현, 고창중·고등학교)를 설립하여 후학을 양성한 교육자이기도 하다. 염재는 사호 송수면(宋修勉, 1847~1916) 화풍의 절대적 영향을 받아 강건한 필치의 산수화를 그렸고, 화조화와 사군자 등 남종문인화의 다양한 화목을 다루었다. 특히 한국적 풍토미를 바탕으로 한 근대지향적 실경산수의 구현과 더불어 신문물에도 관심을 가지고 그림으로 표현했다는 점에서 초창기 근·현대를 아우르는 대표적 서화가로서, 근·현대 고창 서화의 기틀을 다졌다. 또한 세계적 화가 고암 이응노(顧菴 李應魯, 1904~1989)는 10대 후반에 염재로부터 묵화의 기본을 사사하였다. 하지만 이러한 그의 다양한 예술적·사회적 활동에 비해 지역작가로서의 한계와 평가에 그치고 있는 점은 아쉽다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.16-33
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• 2004

Up to now, image of femme fatale has undergone constant transformation to be inherited and developed through various genres of movies. With few exceptions such cases have represented sensuality of women by costumes with the most distinctive and exaggerated sexuality. Temptresses in movies are mostly drawn as extravagant and gorgeous one or a gloomy and dreary woman. Such an image is reinforced with make-up, hair style, accessories, attitude and manner of talking. The movie 'Chicago' is a musical film that crosses the boundaries of reality and fantasy with dancing and singing. Its lighting, stage setting, powerful and sexy dancing augmented already exaggerated and sensual costumes. Following is the analysis of costumes for two heroines as images of femme fatale. Strong contrast of color among black, red and blue on see-through & stickingly tight body suit signifies liberal mind and arrogant charisma of Velma. The contrast, haughty gestures, cropped black hair and thick makeups represent sex appeal, aggressive image, and fearlessly determined character of femme fatale. Roxie wears decent dresses in front of public and gorgeous stage costume in fantasy to convey two images of bad girl and angel. Her body suit, showing off lustering materials and dazzling bead decoration, is rather loose but still displays her bodyline to emphasize sexiness for representation of desire in fantasy. Chastity and innocence are implied with the decency of dresses in reality. They were specially chosen to draw public sympathy and indicate cunning disguise of Roxy who desperately wants to realize her desire. These dauntless costumes, which sufficiently express inside aspirations of Velma and Roxie later denote open and realistic social yearning rather than fatal desire hidden behind sensual beauty. It doesn't exist as imperfect, unrealistic and socially disdainful ambition as the image of femme fatale of paintings and movies did before in history. Femme fatale is expressed with deep cleavage, silk dresses that explicitly display bodyline, sexiness of mesh stockings with garter belts. All of these won't be utilized as a negative tool to seduce and destroy someone anymore but rather, they should represent rightful and fair nature of humans such as men's curiosity who secretly steal a look at them or female sexuality that women spontaneously want to show off.

• 복식
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• 제53권1호
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• pp.35-48
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• 2003

The primary goal of this study is to define the future image of modern fashion. By review of many references, this study has examined predictable future in common, various researches on future, and futurism that appeared from art history. This study has also identified the trend of future image and the properties of the image in terms of fashion as well. The purpose of this study is defined as future image of modern fashion. First of all. through a large literature, this study is to examine general future and the study of future, to investigate futurism appears from art history. and to identify the trend of future image and the properties of the image in terms of fashion. The main results of this study include : 1) General future means forthcoming sometime or a state of life at that time, and future is not drawing near naturally in accordance with the passage of time. The future is developed according as which the owners of time have independent meaning and what they select. 2) The futurism had started with the background based on Darwins and Einsteins scientific theories and Bergsons and Nietzsches philosophical thoughts, which was then established by Marinettis Futurism Statement and Dynamism Theory of Umberto Boccionio, Giaomo Balla, Luigi Russolo and Gino Severini. As the purpose of futurism is to represent the dynamism of machinery and the beauty of speed, it has been developed toward op art and kinetic art including video art, laser art, and holography. 3) Fashion style and trend of futurism from the beginning of 20th century up to now can be defined as follows : Firstly futurism fashion represented by loud colors and geometric pattern appeared from 1910s to 1930s in the first place. Secondly, or art fashion and kinetic fashion appeared in 1960s due to the influence of op art and kinetic art which were developmental arts of futurism paintings. Space Look and Cosmo Corps Look that were designed by Andre Courreges, Pierre Cardin, Rudi Gernreich and Paco Rabanne, were also the trend of future image fashion. Thirdly, various materials and techniques developed this future image fashion in 1980s, and Glitter Look and Collage Look were its representative style. Fourthly, in 1990s, human beings dreamed the freedom of mind by human-oriented thought. and created the ecology of new concept mixed with technology due to anxiety on environmental destruction. which influenced on the advent of Zen style.