• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제20권3호
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• pp.99-113
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• 2018

In this study, the reality of international Gothic style was examined through the representative art of the period, such as paintings, architecture and tapestries. In particular zones of the body were examined by applying Harold Koda's methods of discussing extreme beauty to study the phenomena and characteristics of extremes in late Gothic costumes. This arrived at the following conclusions concerning the phenomena and characteristics of the extreme appearing in the late Gothic costumes. First, a mechanism of body transformation to reach the ideal and desired form of a human. Second, the complicated and various extremeness of the whole human body. Third, the reflection of 'elaborate and secular excess, decorative taste of international Gothic style. Fourth, a early advanced case of the Trickle-down fashion and international sensation. Fifth, the aesthetic insight into 'ugliness', ever pursued in 'extreme beauty'. The researcher expects that the results of this study will contribute to the preparation to renew the significance of, and to restore the status of the late Gothic costumes, in terms of costume history, that has been considered as an age of the bizarre tastes.

• 복식
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• 제60권5호
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• pp.19-34
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• 2010

This study aims to examine associationistic psychology and psychological operation associated with each color image, then to study the relation between particular colors used in paintings produced by Gogh and Klimt in different times and these painters' psychology in a bid to explore the meaning and role of psychological operation of colors. The findings of the study indicated that red and blue colors represent mainly negative images, while yellow and orange colors represent mainly positive images and psychologies. Specifically, in the case of Gogh, red expresses anxiety, a negative image, yellow symbolizes passion, a major positive image of emotional liberation, dark and thick green and the green involving blue symbolize negative images, emptiness and despair, and blue represents negative images of internal desire conflicts, and screaming. Also, purple used together with white represents anxiety and depression. In the case of Klimt, red represents negative images of anger toward mother and suppressed energy, yellow, an alternative to gold color, symbolizes the positive image of hope, passion, desire and eroticism, the arrangement of strong gold and orange colors represents a color of psychological healing more than a color of hope. As such, colors used in paintings produced by modern Western painters express the physiological conditions, psychological feeling and emotion in life, at the time when the artists produced such works. It was found that colors are yet another language of expressing emotions, and symbolize the psychologies of the artists, indicating that colors have something to do with the painters' experience and emotional impulses.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권5호
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• pp.538-544
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• 2007

We usually try to accomodate ourselves to our nature surroundings interacting with nature. There fore I've decided to apply nature materials, esp. the pine to Hair Art as a way of expressing our feelings from Nature. 'Hair Art' is a follow-up study based on the various artistic point of view. There has been various works of 'Hair Art' with nature materials. However, it is rare to see a work of 'Hair Art' with the pine. That's why I've decided to study more about this. This study is a new experiment in 'Hair Art' against a conventional idea "Hair Art values practicability." Therefore, the primary goal of this study is to do much for the cause of learning in 'Hair Art' and encourages some development of 'Hair Art' industry. I've researched an image of a pine tree in art of Joseon Dynasty and contemporary art. Then I've tried to apply the image to a work of 'Hair Art'. First of all, in a view of expression technique for the symbolism of the pine, the artists in Joseon Dynasty drew pictures of a pine tree with a paintbrush but the modern artists make a new attempt from the thought of Modernism. We can find it in some photos. Next, to express traditional oriental idea such as 'unconventional and elegance', comtemporary artists chose the symbolism of the pine tree as an object of their works like pen and ink sketches from the thought of Modernism. Third, in a fusion style picture which contains features of both oriental paintings and western paintings and in a sexualism style picture that depicts a harmony of a male and a female as a shape of a pine, we can find colorful images of a pine tree and Their figurative beauty in art. Those are another symbols of the pine. In conclusion, the implication of the pine tree still hasn't changed even there are differences of drawings of pine tree in the past and the present. I've tried to combine these symbolic ideas of the pine with 'Hair Art' and made 5 hair styles. Throughout the process of researching this topic which is 'The Study of Hair Art Using The Symbolism of The Pine', I've realized that pine trees make it possible to express intrinsic tough spirit of human being and abundance in color and figurative beauty in art. I hope this can contribute to the field of 'Hair Art' and would become an important educational resource for further study.

• 복식
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• 제56권3호
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• pp.42-56
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to review the literatures and the wall paintings of the ancient tombs of Koguryo in an effort to try to understand the characteristics of the culture of dyeing in Koguryo. The research findings follow: 1. The colors that were in vogue in Koguryo are five cardinal colors (red, blue, white, black, and yellow) and compound colors, like purple and green. Those colors were used in some or all parts of the clothing and even on some parts of the body. 2. Some clothing of Koguryo as shown in the wall paintings were made with a single and solid color by dip dyeing method. But the majority of the clothing had a variety of patterns. Among the patterns, the geometrical dot pattern took the majority. 3. The dyeing techniques used in Koguryo were printing, yarn dyeing, embroidery, wax resist dyeing, drawing and painting. The development of yarn dyeing method, weaving with silk-threads dyed in various colors, enabled to produce Geum fabrics, which were used for the upper classes' clothing. 4. The esthetic features represented in the colors of Koguryo include the beauty of contrast coloring, preference for red, preference for geometrical patterns, and the harmony of yin and yang.

• 복식
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• 제58권8호
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• pp.1-12
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• 2008

This study begins by establishing the theory that paintings serve as a visual documentation of a particular era and record the ideal fashions and customs about dress behavior through the costumes represented in them and examines the close relationship between fashion and art, focusing on the influence of art on fashion, as well as that of fashion on art, for both painters and fashion designers. To attain the goal of the study, the selected objects of study are written references and dresses represented in paintings produced in the 19th century. Painters who were the subject of documentation created or popularized new fashion styles before the concept of 'fashion designer' was introduced in history. In order to capture and represent the ideal beauty of certain period, painters understood the important role of fashion. Their work not only included the designing of costumes or accessories for the sitters, but also the spreading of new fashion styles by showing the sitters wearing them. Study of the mutual relationship between fashion and art grew more vigorous among many intellectuals in a variety of fields beginning in the 19th century. The standing of fashion was elevated and the concept of the 'fashion designer' was introduced and the interest in the themes of a specific style or the background of a trend increased during this time period. Many contemporary fashion designers created dresses inspired by the costumes represented in paintings. The result of this study which focuses on the relationships between fashion, artist, fashion designer and art is that connection between fashion and art is closely and firmly formed. For several hundred years, painters were the creators as well as promulgators of fashion and fashion designers, from the 19th century until today, have obtained their creative inspiration from art.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제32권5호
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• pp.81-94
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• 2023

Haeju was home to the Hwanghae-do Provincial Office and a hub for supporting the northwestern regions of Korea. Local commerce expanded in Haeju during the late Joseon period based on its abundant resources and regional products, leading it to evolve into a large city. King Seonjo temporarily resided in Haeju while seeking refuge from the Japanese Invasions of Korea, and Yi Yi (sobriquet: Yulgok) secluded himself in Seokdam in Haeju in his later years. King Seonjo's residence in Haeju and Yi Yi's retirement there boosted interest in the city among the literati and influenced its places of scenic beauty. The development of its local history and literary achievements were documented in a wide variety of historical records and visual materials. Eight scenic views in Haeju became famous through a poem written by Seong Su-ik in the late sixteenth century. Around the mid-eighteenth century, eight new scenic views became popular. Local officials and travelers from other regions produced a vast body of prose and poetry focusing on the landscape and society of Haeju, playing a crucial role in raising awareness of its scenic attractions. Most surviving visual materials related to Haeju were created in and after the nineteenth century. Many of them illustrate both landscapes and the everyday lives of people. Among them, paintings of scenic spots created by Jeong Seon (sobriquet: Gyeomjae), who never actually visited Haeju in person, raises some of the issues posed by relying on indirect materials. In contrast, Eight Scenic Views of Haeju, which is presumed to have been produced by a local painter, appears to have accurately highlighted the characteristics of each scenic spot. Moreover, Haejudo, a folding screen presenting a panoramic view of Haeju, incorporates content from paintings depicting eight scenic views, in this case Eight Scenic views of Haeju. This practice can be observed in visual materials of other provincial cities.

• 문화기술의 융합
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• 제10권4호
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• pp.111-120
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• 2024

본고에서는 한국의 여성 화가 천경자(1924-2015)의 여성 회화를 중심으로 작품 속 표현된 메이크업의 양상에 대해서 살펴보았다. 천경자는 한국 근대 전통적인 동양화적 중심의 틀을 벗어나 채색화를 구축시킨 대표적인 여성작가로 자신만의 독창적인 기법으로 여성을 주제로 한 작품세계를 펼친 작가이다. 특유의 특징적인 소재의 여성과 꽃을 통해 화려한 색채를 표현하여 자신의 내면세계와 사회에 전달하고자 하는 의미를 분명하게 표현한 것이 특징이다. 여성 인물화를 통해 작품 속 표현된 메이크업에 대해 알아봄으로 다채롭게 표현되는 여성의 메이크업과 인물화 그림을 통해 연관성을 알아보았다. 작품의 특징적인 메이크업의 양상을 통해 표현된 색채와 회화 속 내포된 의미도 살펴본 것에 의의가 있다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.511-522
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• 2001

Various art trends of the 20th century that contributed to the creation and development of abstract art had showed the transition from the convention of mere representation of the object to the formative sensitivity emphasizing self-expression. Noticing that such trends had influenced the fashion industry to move toward a free and individualized style, this study attempts to express the formative way from the existing art to wear, especially, based on early 20th century paintings, 5 casual wears were made which applied korean materials and silhouettes that are functional, sample and show traditional korea beauty. The purpose of this study is to search for a solution to expand the world market by producing dresses utilizing our own tradition that can be distinguished in the global market and that derive inspiration from the formative of the sensitivity of the paintings during the first half of the 20th century. It also aims to let national economy as a high-added industry. The result of this study are as follows: First, the expression method and element of various styles of art such as Fauvism, Expressionism and Cubism, during the period of transition to abstract art, clearly presented the direction toward the artistic liberation and made possible a new formative artistic expression of dress in the early years of the 20th century. Their ideas inspired the dress designers of the time with a reformative and creative sense of fashion and have greatly contributed to the development of a new era of uniqueness and individuality. Second, the color and the simplicity of form of the early 20th century paintings are suitable fro utilizing a motive of functional dresses and express unique and concise modern beauty. Third, it was confirmed that utilizing our tradition in contemporary dress can be a significant method of creation in which the uniqueness and creativity of Korean dress can be expressed, distinguishing it on the global scene, as well as inspire the originality and pride of our culture. Fourth, a possibility has been discovered. It is the functionality and uniqueness of aesthetic expression technique of the contemporary arts that can contribute to the fashion of tomorrow, by searching a modern fashion which was affected by the past and also by taking a look at the trend of modern fashion as the same field as casula wear.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.1-11
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• 1979

This is a study on angels' costumes in religious paintings, especially as this relates to the questions of concepts and theological symbolism. Angels, as spiritual creatures in Christian thought, play the role of praising God's glory, as messengers of God, the role of guarding Israel and the Church, and protecting or punishing human beings. Sometimes the angels appear in incarnate form. They display no sexual differences and are not able to procreate. The angels' funtional classification being thus; nevertheless, they are pictured in various costumes and appearances according to characteristics of the paintings. The angel Michael appears as a man of dignity when pictured as a guard; the angel Gabriel in the annunciation is often portrayed as a woman of mystical beauty. Under the Renaissance, the mighty cherubim and seraphim at Yahweh's throne are degraded as plump child-angels, or winged child-heads looking alike Eros or Cupid. They have become playful and all too obviously non-heavenly chrubs, accepted features of the Temple decorations. However, cherubim are often depicted as naked or wrapped around with a piece of cloth and accompanied with wind, which symbolizes the Glory of God. The angels, costumes without seam are hung over or wrapped around the body, and when sewn they are simple and ample enough that they fall in a great many folds. However, by the 14C. angels are mostly dressed in costumes common to all Europe, and after that angels gradually appear in folk costumes; for example Italian, Flemish, etc. Dalmatic, the typical costume of Byzantine often shows up as angels' dresses even after the period. Originally the dalmatic was the Roman tunic to which Eastern influences added. The Roman clavus on the tunic had gradually lost distinction until, by the Imperial epoch, it was worn by the lowest servants. It was proudly therefore, as 'The servants of God', that the early Christians are shown wearing the clavus on their wide, ungirdled, sleeved dalmatics. In addition to their costume, angels have some other distinct charateristics. First, angels have a halo around their head; this symbolizes their holiness. Second, angels wear a narrow diadem or a queen's crown that seems to denote their glorious status close to God's throne. Third, the cloth band across the breast resembles a priest's stole, which suggests the sacred role of a priest and symbolizes the grace santified. Fourth, lilies in the annunciations are symbols of Mary's virginity. chastity, innocence and heavenly bliss. Angels hold palms or olives in their hands. The former denote prosperity. beauty and the Christians' reward after death; the latter represent peace and amity. the imperial crown made of olives means victory. Fifth, angels in paintings always have a pair of wings, which can be traced to scripture where cherubim and seraphim are described as having pairs of wings. Angels' wings often have colors of the rainbow, and the rainbow is compared to God's glory. Sixth, generally artists paint angels' costumes as white, blue, green, gold and purple. Other colors such as red rarely appear. According, to scriptures it is believed that angels should be depicted 'as white as snow'. According to the biblical expressions of angels as lightning, sun or a pillar of fire, angels should be described as creatures of light. Nevertheless being a form of art, religious paintings may differ in their presentation according to an artist's inspiration and intention. Since religious paintings illustrated above were almost all done before the Reformation, symbols of colors used in the Catholic Church will also be mentioned. The white color symbolizes chastity, purity, brightness, delight and divinity. Green represents new birth, eternal life, spiritual revival and the expectance of the grace of God. Blue, the color of sapphires, denotes chastity and truth. Red, the color of rubies, represents divinity, love and religious passion. Violet is the color of dignity, indicating the sovereign, royal or imperial power and the great Sacrifice of Christ. As mentionad above, angels' costumes were expressed in accordance with contemporary patterns or as indicated in the Bible, and accesories and colors correspond with Christian symbols. Therefore these facts should be taken into consideration when it comes to the study of costume history.

• 문화기술의 융합
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.61-70
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• 2019

명말청초의 화단은 청(淸) 왕조에 충실하게 협력했던 정통파와 청(淸)에 적대적인 태도를 가졌던 개성파가 대립한 혼란의 시대라 할 수 있다. 이러한 왕조교체기에 국파가망지통(國破家亡之痛)의 한(恨)을 품고 현실을 초월해 산림에 은둔자적하였던 대표적 유민화가였던 팔대산인(八大山人)과 석도(石濤)는 참된 자아를 찾기 위한 개성적 표현 양식으로 어떠한 유파를 이루지 않았고, 작품을 통해서 흉중의 비참함과 현실에 대한 울분을 자신만이 느끼는 새로운 착상과 구도를 통해 광괴적(狂怪的)으로 표현하였다. 이들의 화풍(?風)은 비분에 싸인 자아마저 망각한 반규범적이며 무위자연적 사유를 통해 간일(簡逸)하면서도 광견적 심미관을 형성하여 자신만의 개성미와 독창성을 야일(野逸)한 묵희(墨戱)로 발현하였다. 팔대산인(八大山人)은 저항정신과 비분강개가 함축된 기이한 그림을 독특한 발묵선염법을 통해 주로 그렸는데, 냉소(冷笑) 풍자(諷刺) 반어적(反語的) 표현으로 광방불기(狂放不麒)하게 묘사하였다. 한편, '차고이개금(借古以開今)'을 주장한 석도(石濤)는 "화어록(畵語錄)"에서 화리(畵理)와 필법(筆法)의 일치화를 일획(一劃)으로 설명하였는데, 이러한 일획론(一劃論)은 기존의 법(法)으로부터 벗어난 무법이법(無法而法)의 자율성을 확보하였다. 그리고 감각적 필묵과 색채미를 통해 유민의식에 기반한 흥(興) 욕(欲) 정감(情感)이 유희적(遊戱的)으로 형상화하였다. 이들의 개성적 화풍은 이후 양주팔괴(楊州八怪)에 전해져 18세기 화풍을 선도하였다.