• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.327-338
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• 2001

The purpose of this thesis is to study the aspects of sex identity in the contemporary mens fashion expressed through sexual image and taste in the half of twentieth century. The aspects of sex identity expression in the contemporary mens fashion can be classified by image, that is, homosexual, heroic, bisexual, and fetish. 1. The homosexual image has shown the tendency to emphasize the masculinity since 1950.60s. It can be found in \"Cowboys costume\" which is typical of American traditional fashion, and jeans and underwear fashion expressed by muscular men has homosexual characteristics which contain narcissism. 2. Based on mens traditional gender role, the heroic image emphasizes mens physical characteristics and expresses tough and offensive masculine beauty in mens suit which is free from the authority and formality. 3. The bisexual image denied the division of gender role by costume and destroyed the traditional sex model by resolutely applying womens costume such as skirts to mens fashion. 4. The fetish image is similar to bisexual image in that they wear womens costume, but different in that it expresses sexual desire or fantasy. It is expressed through brilliant color, leather and metal ornaments, and sensual element of women which emphasizes \"body\". This shows the sex identity of contemporary men who want more sensible and free life.sible and free life.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.91-96
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• 2008

As the interest on popular culture has began to be expanded to a general living culture through 'Korean Wave(韓流)' and is in profess of the 'strategy to support Korean(韓) brand' to enhance our cultural standard and create a worldwide brand value in traditional culture. The purpose of this thesis is to make suggestion for production of an effective and differentiated advertisement photo in Korean(韓) brand fashion product on the basis of a Korean image. First, the Korean image is like the unique culture or history in Korea which enables us to feel our identity such as Korean clothes, houses, Hangul. Especially it was found out that the characteristic of a traditional costume in our country included a natural beauty, neatness, purity and calmness, etc and positive intention was expressed on a production of a fashion, photo, graphic of a Korean image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.5 no.1 s.12
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• pp.87-96
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• 2007

Patterns have their own shapes and characteristics as a symbol in accordance with in what environment they are like a language. Especially our ancestor had wished present values as like riches and honors, longevity and health, love and happiness through all kinds of patterns of animals, plants, the sun, the moon, cloud, water and mountain, and expressed an aesthetic consciousness. Pattern design is important in fashion but it is insufficient in terms of the development of modern patterns based on Korean traditional patterns. Therefore, We need to create new senses and thoughts through the understanding and re-analysis about Korean traditional costume and a study on optical patterns could give an extreme effect without any changes of silhouette. Especially, Emilio Pucci and Missoni have been developing a variety of Pattern designs even though there are different tendencies each other. Consequently it could be a good chance to show Korean images and originality that develope the various textile patterns with applying to Korean traditional patterns based on an analysis of their works.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.27-42
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• 2010

It was in the fifteenth century in Italy that men began to talk of a rebirth in the arts and literature. Today we consider the period to belong to the Renaissance. We noticed the splendour of costume and the important role it played, in the life of Italian society in that period. From elsewhere in Europe and also from the East, dyestuffs came to Italy overland or in shiploads. Red and blue, notably kermes and madder on the one hand, and indigo and woad on the other were fundamental textile dyes in Italy. Saffron was used for yellows, oak galls for blacks. Renaissance Italian costumes' main color symbolized various meaning. Red symbolized high rank, affection, lady, redemption and various cardinal virtueses. Yellow was evaded color which was symbolized the lower class, betrayal, and gold. Green symbolized penniless, youthfulness, hope and love. Blue symbolized humbleness, sincerity, knowledge and the Madonna. Purple symbolized nobility, vice and various meanings. Black symbolized death, grief, beauty and elegance. These color symbols in the Renaissance Italian costumes were very similar to that of modern color symbols.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.6
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• pp.1-13
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to examine the trend of plural eclecticism in costumes appearing on the stages of the world's top 4 musicals based on the general researches and establishments made of the mentioned concept. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, the aspects of eclectics appearing in overall pieces can be defined as situational eclecticism. It can be attributed to the dramatic elements contrasted in the storyline of the musical and occurs in mixture with various situations. Showing combinations of costumes from varying situations at once in the same stage makes the audience feel the dynamic elements of the piece. Second, the aspect of temporal eclecticism, which can be seen in the 'Phantom of the Opera' regarding mixture of crinoline style and art nouveau style, resulted from the partial mixture of classical elements for maximizing visual beauty in the historical pieces. Third, the aspect of spatial eclecticism can be observed in the musical 'Miss Saigon', which used costumes that combined multicultural elements by exposing different spaces and cultures such as America and Vietnam. It eclectically expresses the unique cultures and costumes of each country. Fourth, 'Les Miserables' shows the aspect of situational eclecticism, through its use of mixture of situations in various aspects, and in particular, the male and female costumes that blur the boundaries of life, death, and costume, the mixture of people's costume and aristocrat's costume, and the situational elements where the good and evil are contrasted are integrated eclectically to make the story dramatic.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.41
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• pp.207-223
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to abstract the image from black dress, which has been favored by many people regardless of the times and examine it throughout the history of drss and thereby clearly define the images that black limplies in dress. Color image is a visual symbol, an image that forms through a combination of visual stimulus created by color, coupled with all the external factors related to it. Black is a one-dimensional color, of which the impact is subjective to its energy, which depends on light reflected on the object, and its texture. Therefore, black projects different images, depending on its surroundings. In general, black has had negative connotations in the Western culture. In dress, however, it has implied other various images different from the general negative ones. By combining general images of black and those exprssed in dress, major images of black were categorized into dignity, elegance, eroticism, asceticism and tragedy. Dignity is a category similar to the sublime. Dress with dignity has sharp contours and is generally made of velvet or silk which can be characterized by their splendor and voluminous-ness, exaggerating the body of a person wearing it. Such costume is mostly found in powerful countries in history such as Burgundy Court in the 15C, Spain in the 16C. Netherlands in the 17C. Elegance evokes grace and beautifulness. It includes elegance, grace, beauty and dandyism as subcategories or silk. Good examples are dandies' black costume and Ladies black and white dressees in the 19C. Eroticism is an image which expresses sexual attractiveness. Costume with eroticism is made of velvet or silk, which project sumptuousness through reflection. Such costumes expose parts of the body or are tightly tailored in order to emphasizes body contours. Asceticism means restraint from physical and mental desires. Costume with asceticism makes a person wearing it look smaller by covering the whole body. Puritan's black dresses and Bourgeoisie's black suit are good examples. Tragedy is anguish. sorrow. Black costume with grievous feelings such as mourning dresses is made of lusterless textile concealing most of the body except for the face.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.137-158
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• 2005

Modernization of Korea had begun with the reformation of the Kab-o Reform in 1894, which the government had designed after the protectorate treaty with Japan in 1876. It had affected drastic changes on the formation and framework of a Han-bok by government and the main changes is found in creating new style of Gae-ryang Han-bok. During 1980's, the peoples were interested in traditional cultural heritage, and 'the campaign of wearing Woo-Ri Ot' prevailed in Korea to instill the radical sprit of Korean. A Han-bok, which was made at this time, has called a Saeng-hwal Han-bok. The purposes of this study are to defue the the words that are Han-bok, Gae-ryang Han-bok and Saeng-hwal Han-bok of meaning and characteristic based on the previous studies and historical materials and present a unified and historical opinion about Han-bok to the academic world and industry of Han-bok by the consideration. Han-bok is a traditional costume with a long skirt and long breast-tie based on the later Cho-sun and is emphasized a virtue and manner on it. Gae-ryang Han-bok is an improved Han-bok that is include with a Tong-Chima and Jeogori for making a movement and function better. Saeng-hwal Han-bok is originated by the movement of wearing Woo-ri Ot in 1984, is interpreted the traditional Korean beauty from the modem view and is a practice Han-bok for popularizing intodaily life. After investigating the 33 of previous studies, the characteristics and transitions of Han-bok are followed. First, the reason of fail about the reform of dress is a loss of traditional beauty. Second, the yes or no of the establishment of law about the reform of dress, it influenced on a reforming or wearing speed of costume. Third, after 8.15, a modem girl and girl student can not impact on a system of Korean women anymore because, the number of the group that means a high educated and active woman, was growing. So, the elevation of women's education matured the system of Korean women's costume. forth, western style clothes are popularized after the Korean War and it is set down in the system of Korean women's dress.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.49 no.5
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• pp.23-32
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• 2011

This study will covered socio-cultural background and characteristic of the face-concealing culture of Istanbul which has liberal and westernized clothes culture for women even if it's an city in an Islamic country. This study depended on literatures related to religion, culture and costumes of the Ottoman Empire, especially costumic data on miniature of turkey, which was famous from 16th to 19th century. Since the 17th century, the Ottoman Empire has been gradually influenced by European countries but the change of women's clothes was not considerable. In the 18th century, women's clothes were influenced by foreign fashions. A veil to cover the face was gradually disappeared and traditional Turkish headdresses were replaced by European hats. Through face-concealing culture of Istanbul, we can see some socio-cultural features like Islamic religious character, one's social position, economic situation, westernization and renovation, beauty and completion of costume, duality for the reason of regional difference.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.2 no.3 s.3
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• pp.74-82
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to investigate the Mourning Culture. In this study, methods such as field work, depth interviews and open-ended descriptions were employed to interpret their mourning culture. The results are as follows. This study classifies Mourning Culture by its filial piety, shroud, mourning garments and cremation. The death in the mourning have relation to filial piety. People began preparing their shroud after their 70th birthday anniversary. To keep prepared shroud naphthalene and leaf tobacco were placed inside. And to keep prepared shroud a paulownia tree box was used. The cloths of the shroud were mostly all Sambe(大麻). The color was light color center upon the white color and 素色. Terms of the shroud were different in each region. The kind of the mourning garments were various. The Cognition of the cremation was considerably affirmative.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.4
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• pp.554-564
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• 2013

This study identified the characteristic and meaning of flow experience through the experiences related to fashion models' role performance; subsequently, the following findings were obtained. First, fashion models' flow experience could be divided into characteristics such as temporality, spatiality, relationality, physicalness and pleasure. Second, the process of this flow experience ultimately led to the complete moment. The complete moment can be said to be the aesthetic experience that provides both the meaningful experience and the aesthetic pleasure; it is the experiential knowledge at the dimension of mysterious integration that their body and mind are integrated into one. The beauty that fashion models exercise at the aspect of this aesthetic experience is that of performance and is an individual physical movement where they perceive their role and exercise their inner ability to express their costume most beautifully. Accordingly, the beauty of performance can be said to mean that the fashion show was successfully held by inducing both the performer and the audience into an aesthetic response. The process of specialized planning and preparation is required for fashion models to exercise the beauty of performance at the complete movement reached through flow experience and a successful fashion show. Diverse elements of the fashion show should be more organically constituted through such a process. Fashion models should exert efforts to embody acts such as walking, posing and turning through the performance of their excellent role as well as develop a training program to complete it.