• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.149-160
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• 2019

Body fit should be the first point considered for satisfying the functionality of clothes and thus it is the most essential condition. Based on previous research, this article studied the basic slacks pattern with a high body fit using body measurement of adolescent boys. The purpose of this study is to propose basic data for the production of slacks. Research was performed on the physical measurements of adolescent boys from 13-18 years old obtained from the '6th Korean National Physical Standard Reports' by SIZEKOREA. First, six types of experimental slacks basic patterns were produced applying the average body sizes of adolescent boys. Second, a single slacks basic pattern was selected, which received the best response based on appearance from the clothing evaluators. Then, the slacks basic pattern for adolescent boys was finalized by modifying and amending the selected pattern with two more clothing experiments. The data analysis was performed using descriptive statistics, ANOVA, and t-test using the SPSS program. The results of this study have been obtained as follows. The modifications and adjustments were done based on Crotch, Thigh Circumference, waist circumference, and hip circumference.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.396-405
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• 1997

The purpose of this study was to investigate the wearing condition according to different basic slacks'patterns and to provide fundamental data on structuring slacks' pattern using the multi-dimensional measuring method. 3 different kinds of basic slacks' patterns (A, B, C) were used and cross-sectional measurements of 6 parts were analysed. The results were as follows; 1) It revealed that the girth of waist, hip and thigh effected the degree of ease amounts. 2) Moira pattern shape fully supported that the considerable body parts affected the change of ease amounts. 3) Basic pattern A was usually expected to be suitable for standard-sized or unmarried women who had not experienced body-type change. 4) Basic pattern B and C were suitable for large-sized or married women whose body·type had changed. Therefore the crotch length and depth, gredient of center back line has to be set up accurately.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.43-55
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• 1996

The purpose of this study was to investigate the slacks pattern making on the movement-fitness of the knee region. The experimental items were divided into the lower limb movement (M1~M5) and slacks pattern designs (4 : basic pattern, in-pleats, side-pleats, seam-line increase). This study was done by clothing pressure test, sensory evaluation test and the difference shape-transformation of wearing-slacks. The summarized finding resulted from experiments and investigation are suggested as follows ; First, the clothing pressure test showed that the order of clothing pressure in the movement was the rabbit leap movement (M3), the sit on knees (M4), the nobleman sitting (M5), the sit on chair (M2) from the highest to the lowest. In the comparison of clothing pressure tested by blocks of lower-limb, center front knee region shows the highest of 300g/cm2. In it by constructional methods, the clothing pressure of in-pleats, side-pleats methods shows lower than basic pattern, hem-line increase methods. Also in comparison of the two methods, in-pleats method shows lower than side-pleats method. Second, by the sensory evaluation test based on the lower-limb movements and constructional methods of slacks, it was found that the functional factor score of the rabbit leap movement was also the waist, hip, knee region was the lowest in all blocks. And in the comparison of constructional methods, in-pleats method was the highest in all methods. Third, in consideration of the difference in the shape-transformation of wearing-slacks on the movement-fitness, pleats pattern design methods showed that the ratio of shape-transformation was lower than basic on seam-line increase methods. But the difference of the side-pleats and in-pleats methods was litle. According to these investigation, the slacks pattern making caused by movement-fitness on the knee region, in-pleats design method was the functional slacks pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.8
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• pp.1125-1136
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• 2000

Fitness of clothes becomes a major concern in apparel industry. Development of basic patterns will enhance the fitness of clothes. But there are few slacks patterns for the middle-high school girls. So girls had difficulties to buy ready-made clothes of good fit. To solve this problem, it is necessary to develop basic slacks patterns. The purposes of this study was to develop basic slacks patterns based on the analysis of lower body types. 4 girls were selected among 402 anthropometric measurement subjects who are 13 to 15 year-old for the wearing tests. The result of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. Analysing the replicas of lower body surface by using gypsum method, slack patterns were developed. 2. Wearing test by the sensory evaluation showed that the developed slacks pattern was estimated more highly than existing patterns in the items of the comfort of front crotch and back crotch. 3. Wearing test by moire topography method represented that garment silhouette of developed slacks pattern was estimated more highly and garment space of waist, hip were significantly different among patterns.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.577-586
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• 2000

The objectives of this study were to develope slacks basic block to be used for improving the attactive silhouette and bodily fitness in ready-to-wear and educational patterns. The subjects were from 20 to 24 years old and twenty six body measurements were taken on the National Anthropometric Survey of Korea in 1977. The women in 20's think ideal body shapes are high stature, long legs, slander waist, hip, abdomen, thigh, ankle and light weight. And so it needs to be studied to studied to make slacks pattern which show slander girth and long length. The study was carried out by the following procedures. 1. Through the comparative investigation on the conventional slacks patterns of System M. Muller & Sohn, Secolli, 文化's in Japan, and Won-ja Rim's and the clothing experiment, the characteristics of every four patterns were found. 2. According to the center back slant, reflecting the change of waist circumference, thigh circumference, back crotch length, and the new suitable slacks pattern was achieved. 3. The sensory evaluation for appearance and comfort was applied to evaluate the new slacks pattern by comparing with the conventional slacks pattern. From the result of the sensory evaluation, it was found that the new slacks pattern was more suitable for appearance. 4. The new slacks pattern for women in their 20's were developed as follows ; The waist line came down 2 ㎝, the waist circumference was plus 2㎝ than originally, and the back hip circumference was larger 1 ㎝ than the front hip, the slacks length was created stature/8×4.9, the knee length was stature/8×2.7. The center back crotch length was interspaced 1∼1.5㎝ at the center front, and was at right angle the point which was raised 5㎝ at the side front. This size is not the absolute size but it helps to make the surplus on any other ready-made slacks for women.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.41 no.5
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• pp.179-191
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• 2003

The study is to suggest easier making method of skirts and slacks as to compare production process between manufacturers and references of clothing construct in universities. Skirts and slacks have simple production process and they are basic subjects in clothing construct class. But most references have just contents which are to make basic styles of skirts and slacks made basic materials. Continuous development of new material and variety of style request more efficient and easer making method in the reference of clothing construct. So the making methods of references and manufacturers are compared and analyzed in this study In references, there are many hand work and sub-work because they are for a person who make own clothes. In contrast, manufacturers have to product many variety clothes of good quality for many people and think the production cost of clothes. They use more simple and efficient method that include their know-how to meet changing fashion situation. In making methods of skirts and slacks, differences between references and manufacturer are in sewing of waist band and zippers and location of interlining. Manufacturers use variedly sewing method of waist band according to material and their experience. Especially handling for wrong side inseam of waist band is distinct between references and manufacturers. References have basic and detail work and manufacturers know processing order having even grade work to keep continuous production. The making method of clothes have to change and improve according to the situation. The more useful making method get to include their merits and references need to add more practical method and knowledge.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.541-549
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• 2010

The purposes of this study were to examine the slacks purchases and wearing satisfaction among old-aged women who were highly dissatisfied with their bodies and fit due to physical changes and to provide some basic data needed to develop slacks patterns to meet their needs. A survey was taken among 223 old-aged women aged 60~79 living in Seoul. Using the SPSS 12.0 program, the collected data were analyzed in descriptive statistics, t-test, and crosstab. The result were as follows: the most used place for them to shop slacks was a market(including the Dongdaemun and Namdaemun market), which was followed by a department store and a discount store in the order. As for their preference for slacks according to age, those who were in their sixties most preferred straight-line slacks, while those who were in their seventies semistraight-type slacks. As for fit for each body part according to age, there were significant differences only in crotch length. Those who were in their seventies were more dissatisfied with crotch length than those who were in their sixties, feeling that crotch length was short. As for their experiences of repair after purchasing a pair of slacks, 82.5% said they had such an experience. Most of the repairs with length, waist and slacks width involved in size reduction.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.91-100
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• 2017

The primary goal of most clothing-related textbooks currently used in colleges in Korea is to determine how to plan and develop basic patterns. Therefore, they are limited in understanding the patterns and sewing methods of practical, ready-made clothes that are continuously being upgraded. According to previous studies regarding sewing methods in clothing construction textbooks, tight skirt, tailored jacket, and shirt sewing methods have been explained. However, there has been no study on the sewing methods of slacks. Therefore, this study attempted to suggest basic data needed for making slacks through a comparative analysis of their sewing methods for educational purposes. In addition, this paper is meaningful in that it complements clothing construction-related textbooks according to the current trends of diverse clothing design and materials and develops learning materials for the construction of clothes, which are applicable to practice. In this study, the sewing methods and construction procedures of slacks stated in clothing construction textbooks that are currently used in colleges and fashion-related educational institutes were analyzed. Among a total of 47 textbooks on the market, 15 books that cover the cutting and sewing methods of slacks and are suitable to slacks design were used. According to the analysis, most textbooks described the production methods only, without explanation of materials, which can affect clothing construction methods. Because there is a large difference in pocket and slacks procedures by textbook, there is a need for a standardized construction method with changes in clothing materials and design.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.35 no.4
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• pp.79-94
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• 1997

This study was performed to develop a basic stacks pattern for middle-aged women reflecting the characteristics of their lower body types. Anthropometric measurements using sliding guage method were carried out for 4 women 40's For the analysis of the lower body types horizontal and vertical section maps obtained by sliding gauge method and 2 indices were produced. Based on the slacks construction components produced by the drafts of their lower body surface experimental slacks pattern was designed. Multiple comparison test was used to compare 3 existing slacks patterns with the experimental pattern. 1. The results of the body section map analysis were as follows: 1) In the frontal view silhouette of vertical section maps there were less individual differences in items with skeleton landmarks than those without them. 2) In the shape of horizontal section maps waist section represented more round shape than the others and thigh maximum width section had the flattest shape. Flat ratios(depth/width) of subjects were much higer than those of young women which clarified the change of depth was bigger than that of width with aging process. 2. The slacks construction components for pattern drafting were as follows: 1)Ease amount of waist was 0.5cm and front and back waist girth difference was 1.2cm Ease amount of hip was 1,8cm and front and back hip girth difference was 0.7 cm 2) The amount of dart intake incresed in the order of side(4cm) back(3,6cm) from (2.8cm) The length of dart leg incresed in the order of front side back.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.54-65
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• 1996

The purposes of this study were 1) to present the optimum slacks pattern for young men, 2) to develope a methodology to draft basic slacks pattern using AutoCAD The total crotch legth and the shape of the crutch line were determined by anthropometric data analysis. The total crotch length was calculated with the waist girth, the hip girth and the crotch length measurements. The anthropometric data utilized for this procedure was National Anthropometric Survey of Korea, 1992. And multidimensional anthropometric measurements were carried out for 6 male college students between the age of 18 to 24. The subjects were measured with the Martin's anthropometer and the sliding gauge. Mean, standard deviation and t-test were performed for statistical analysis of the data. The automatic drafting method was programmed by AutoLISP in AutoCAD. The automatic drafting was based on the Muller's slacks pattern drafting method, the measurements of slacks construction components and the curve of crotch line. The crotch line was drafted using of the arc function in AutoCAD. The total crotch length was calcuated using the multiple regression equation. The experimental pattern developed to accomodate individual body wleasurements expected to produce customized apparel production in QRS(Quick Response System) production system.