• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.6 s.53
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• pp.953-970
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to design men's jacket pattern for variable body types by employing the data of wearing evaluation from experimental basic bodices selected by male subjects in the 30's. As a result of sensory evaluation, functional test and clothing pressure test by each type of experimental basic bodices, the 3rd experimental basic bodice was chosen to be a basic bodice type in this research since it showed a high degree in fitness and function, but a low in the clothing pressure test. As a comparison of one item from conventional jacket and sleeve pattern with each somatotype, the type 2(the standard somatotype) indicated a great fitness in both basic bodice type and conventional jacket pattern, whereas the type 1 and the type 3 showed higher fitness and moving function in the basic bodice type. In the making of men's jacket, many corrections were made in the front interscye breadth, back interscye breadth, front and back length, and shoulder line as adapting each body type. Thus, the ease-amount of chest circumference at scye for clothes should be established differently according to the size of chest circumference at scye.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.1073-1081
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• 2006

The development of foundation garment pattern on the typical adult women's body was carried out. By means of the flatted body surface shell, the foundation garment pattern was developed. And its fitting test also performed. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. The investigated Foundation basic pattern was made by the allowing the maximum bust size without any surplus since it was based on the tight-fitted model drawing technique. The investigated the completed pattern was designed in three parts of front and back body, including bust. 2. The result showed by overlapping the torso basic pattern foundation and body surface development selected from body almost the same except for the shift of dart position. 3. The result by overlapping basic pattern 3 existing basic patterns. On the basis of top-bust line showed that the setting up the volume of dart of bust and its waist affect the appearance of model. Especially, it was found that the above result was related to the bust and under bust line. 4. The result of the wearing test of 3 existing basic patterns and basic pattern of this study revealed that the mean values of whole items were higher than average in type P and type E. The fitting & position of under-bust line and extent of wrapping bust showed the high points in the current study and type of P. The result of evaluating the whole appearance in three points(front, side, back) showed different according to the every basic foundation garment pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.105-115
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• 2000

This study was intended to find body pattern of middle aged women and make new experimental basic pattern for upper-half of the body for them. This experimental pattern on the idea of body pattern analysis was prepared. For experimental pattern, the prototype basic model was chosen with the best qualified D model from the four meaningful existing patterns. After several steps of correction experimental pattern was made. Comparing with basic D model, the new experimental pattern composed of additional bust girth by 1cm, wider back waist by 0.5cm than front waist and additional armhole by 0.5cm keeping the same size for back and front widths. Making a shoulder line up by 3cm the armhole became deeper accordingly and the room for girth has been transferred to length. Front neck girth became deeper downward but back neck girth risen a little bit. Side line of the bodice formed with inward slope taking from the waist line by 2cm. Instead of dart, modified side line slope was more practical by its function and appearance. Abdominal girth which is lower than waist girth by 8.5cm kept in same size with bust girth. Then abdominal girth became more comfortable. New experimental pattern with changes has been examined in function and appearance. In conclusion, the new experimental basic pattern for the middle-aged women has been proved more practical for both in bodice and sleeve than other existing ones in terms of function and appearance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.15 no.3 s.39
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• pp.309-320
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• 1991

The purpose of this study was to develope a pattern drafting method for various somatotype which contribute largely to increase the fitness and comfort of garments. This study had 8 subjects who were college girls who had prominent somatic characteristics. The study was carried out by the following procedures. 1. The 8 subjects who had prominent somatic characteristics were cheesed by photograph- ing. The somatotypes of 8 subjects were classified into Standard somatotype, Turning over somatotype, Bending somatotype and Turning over-Bending somatotype. 2. Under the criterion of the body surface development, the comparative investigation on the pattern and the sensory evaluation were accomplished in the flat pattern method and the draping pattern method. 3. The body surface development of them were made by the draping pattern method. 4. In the result of the comparative investigation and the sensory evaluation, it was found that the flat pattern had better appearance and comfort than the draping pattern, and the draping pattern included more somatic characteristics than the flat pattern. 5. On the basis of those result, the pattern drafting method according to the somatotype was indicated and it was examinated by the clothing experiment. 6. The sensory evaluation for appearance and comfort was applied to evaluate the new basic pattern for four somatotype by comparing it with the conventional basic pattern (Rim, won ja' 5). The result of the sensory evaluation, it was found that the new basic pattern was more suitable for each somatotype than the conventional basic pattern.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.35-45
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• 2007

This study examined how to create 2D basic pattern of individuals by means of 3-D body figure, which is to develop a flat of individual basic pattern directly from the 3-D body scan data of each subject using that of the upper body of a male adult. In terms of methodology, this study adopted 3D body scan data on system and body to make examinations in the following steps: 1. Standard point and line were set on human body, along with 3-D definition points(feature points). 2. PB was created by modifying horizontal and longitudinal section of scan data. 3. Ways to set reserve were established in the findings of PB planar development. Respective developed flat patterns were compared with pattern findings in previous studies by means of sensory evaluation. As a result, it was found that both system and body model are basic pattern and belong to appropriate pattern as semi-tight-fit basic pattern with overall appropriate tolerances. Thus, this study came to a conclusion that it is feasible and valid to develop theories for flat development as considered herein.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.6
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• pp.821-832
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to develop grading method of the basic brassiere patterns therewith, provide for 12 size's brassiere patterns and prove fitness of their's and shape. The collected data were statistically processed using the SAS 6.12 for Means, Standard Deviation, etc. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. The basic sizes adopted at the first design stage (see fig.1-2) were 75AA, 75A and 75B each of which was designed as upper foundation basic pattern in reference to the cup size. At the second stage, each of the upper body foundation basic pattern was used to design lower cup, upper up, front panel and wing in their order(see fig.3-6). At the third stage, the other sizes were graded in reference to the three brassiere patterns (75AA, 75A and 75B) to produce 12 brassiere sizes(see Tab. 7-8). In order to develop the basic patterns of adult women's brassieres, 33 women were selected per 11 size combination(3 women per size combination), and then, their brassiere fitting was teated. As a result, the fronts of the basic patterns were found to have such problems as undone front center, poor levelling of upper cup's bottom line or lower cup's top line, poor shape of upper cup's outside top line and shoulder strip position. On the other hand, on the rear side of the basic patterns, the central part of the wing was slightly lifted, while the wing width and straps'interval did not befit the ful1-cup brassiere. The result of this first brassiere fitting test showed that the functionality and aesthetics of the basic pattern brassieres were more or less satisfactory, and thus, the problems were addressed for the second teat. In the second test, the aesthetics, breast-shaping effect and functionality of the basic pattern brassieres were much improved. 2. We were to present the final brassiere sizing system to extend the interior length of breast and the exterior length of breast on the basis of fitting test. Thereby, 75B$.$80A$.$80B$.$85A$.$85B's the interior lengths of breast were enlarged to 0.7cm, the rest size was enlarged to 0.5cm and the exterior length of breast was enlarged to 0.5cm regardless of sizes. 3. The upper foundation basic patterns of 75AA and 75B were presented and and the basic brassiere pattern and grading pattern were presented through to.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.149-160
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• 2019

Body fit should be the first point considered for satisfying the functionality of clothes and thus it is the most essential condition. Based on previous research, this article studied the basic slacks pattern with a high body fit using body measurement of adolescent boys. The purpose of this study is to propose basic data for the production of slacks. Research was performed on the physical measurements of adolescent boys from 13-18 years old obtained from the '6th Korean National Physical Standard Reports' by SIZEKOREA. First, six types of experimental slacks basic patterns were produced applying the average body sizes of adolescent boys. Second, a single slacks basic pattern was selected, which received the best response based on appearance from the clothing evaluators. Then, the slacks basic pattern for adolescent boys was finalized by modifying and amending the selected pattern with two more clothing experiments. The data analysis was performed using descriptive statistics, ANOVA, and t-test using the SPSS program. The results of this study have been obtained as follows. The modifications and adjustments were done based on Crotch, Thigh Circumference, waist circumference, and hip circumference.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.54 no.4
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• pp.427-440
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• 2016

This study uses comparison tests of bodice basic patterns to research improvements in wearing evaluation methods based on differences in bodice basic patterns and body size. As study methods, we calculated body sizes for six types by selecting four types of bodice basic pattern and utilized bodice basic pattern size measurement tools. The study result are as follows. First, as the result of analyzing bodice basic patterns per each part and body size difference by bodice basic pattern size measurement tool, shoulder angle cover rate was J&K type 57.57%~68.41%, N type 53.13%~65.57%, L type 51.87%~63.73%, and H type 59.03%~68.20%. In the item of neck base circumference, it was J&K type 6.4~-16 mm, N type 10.7~-31.9 mm, L type -5.2~-13.4 mm, and H type -6.2~-15.4 mm. In the item of armscye circumference, it was J&K type -18.9~-59.4 mm, N type -15.2~-51.3 mm, L type -38.9~-52.7 mm, and H type -17~-42.2 mm. In the item of biacromion length, it was J&K type 23.2~-4.7 mm, N type 18.4~-10.4 mm, and H type 3.5~-5.7 mm. In the item of interscye back, it was J&K type and N type 17.6~-13.6 mm, L type 11.9~-13.6 mm, and H type 3.2~-11.8 mm. The item of interscye front was found in the sequences of study type and L type. Second, the Kruskal-Wallis test result (according to bodice basic pattern) indicated meaningful differences in items of shoulder angle cover rate, neck point to breast point, bust point-bust point, biacromion length and armscye circumference and H type had an overall higher rank.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.170-185
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• 2013

The suitability of the pattern manufactured with the development figure was considered by reviewing the development conditions that can be directly connected to the basic pattern in the human body surface development figure with the cast bandage method. The method to prepare the sleeve basic pattern was based on the cylindrical surface development method, and the sleeve basic pattern covering the 45 and 90 degrees momentum of the arm-movement was made by using the cast-type body surface development figure prepared with the horizontal line of the sleeve hem placed horizontally in the plan and by combining the cast-type body surface development figure in the standing position with the figure in the moving position. The test clothing was prepared with the sleeve pattern adding the bodice pattern in the standing position and the momentum and was worn on the FRP replica. The relationship theory of the body surface development figure with the pattern was derived by reviewing the suitability from the wearing state. The sleeve-cap height of the sleeve basic pattern resulted in about 80% in the standing position when the needs for a physical activity are 45 degrees and the about 50% when the needs for a physical activity are 90 degrees. The additional size of the diagonal length of the sleeve-cap could be set as "0" if the sleeve-cap height is low by 50% and as 50% of the additional size in the standing position if the sleeve-cap height is 80%.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.109-119
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to dvelop the basic pattern of wome which are fitting for 75A. The collected data were statistcally processed usig the SPSS 10.0 for Mans Standard Deiation, Cronbach's $\alpha$, etc. This study suggested a size chart for body measurement for constructing basic brssiere patterns with size of 75A. The construction of this experimental brassiere were lower cup, upper cup, front panel and wing and characterized by a round cup wired as well as a full cup embrcing the entire breasts. The drafting method for constructing basic brassiere patterns for 75A was completed by selecting a total of 11subjects, and two wearing tests were carried out with the subjects. the dimensions and shapes of the basic brassiere pattern suggested in this research proved to be fitting and to have a wearing effect that brings together and supports the breasts.