• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.3 s.93
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• pp.94-107
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• 2005

Kokuryo mural tombs are located in Jipan and Pyongyang, where were capital Cities of Kokuryo. Although there are many studies performed about costumes in Kokuryo mural tombs so far, the studies comparing regional differences are rare. In this study, we tried to compare about the costumes in Kokuryo mural tombs between Jipan, where was the capital city in early period (BC37-AD426) and Pyongyang, where was the capital city for 241 years after the King Jang Su moved.(AD427-AD668) The results of this study are as following. There are differences between Jipan and Pyongyang in the shape of Chima(skirt) and the direction of Yeomim (adjusting the necklines). While there was only one type, long and narrow pleated skirt in Jipan area, another type of Chima was existed in Pyongyang area including the one in Jipan. Also, the direction of Yeomim was different. Left was popular in Jipan while it was right in Pyongyang. Moreover there are no man's Po(coat) with straight collar which was considered as a basic shape in Kokuryo mural tombs costumes so far. Also we found that Baji(pants) was an ordinary woman's costume, not only for underwear.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.225-235
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to find out the changes for the first birthday's costume in westernizing Korea society of the twentieth century. For this study, I analysed the related literature for the first half the twentieth century due to the lack of relevant photographs, while I used the method of content analysis of 136 photographs for the second half of the twentieth century. According to the analysis of photographs, first birthday's costume for girls dressed up was more different than those for boys. But first birthday's costume items for boys were more than those for girls. Generally first birthday's costume consists of Bokkon Jeonbok Jeogori(Sackdong) and Baji for boy's, Chima and SackdongJeogori for girl's. Because the meanings and look of Hogun, Durumagi, Sagusam, Busun and Baeza are good, those items might be to used for first birthday's costume in the future. To establish better first birthday's culture and costume in Korea, it is important to educate people involved in related business for traditional costume. Because most of first birthday's costume are usually borrowed for photographs. Also item and design for the first birthday's costume should be studied in order to improve traditional cultural products.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.8 s.108
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• pp.60-73
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• 2006

This study analyzes the Baekche official costume system, including the dress, cap and belt systems, by relating documentary records with the results of excavations. The study shows that the system differed depending on the time. A system of dress based on official ranks was instituted during the region of King Goi in the third century. The rap amd belt systems were begun in the first half of sixth century The official costume system, as recorded in the Chinese history $Sus{\u{o}}$, included many subdivisions of cap colors, which followed belt colors. According to $Gudangs{\u{o}}$, dress and cap systems changed in the seventh century. The official costume consisted of a $jacket(j{\u{o}}gori)$, trousers(baji), and coat(po). The coat had wide sleeves and reached below knees. Its collar had straight neckline. Officials of all rank wore silk caps and belts of matching colors. Officials above sixth rank used silver flower decorations on their caps. Officials wore wide-crouch trousers and generally adjusted the hems of the trousers, but this practice stopped in the sixth century. Officials wore shoes or boots depending on occasion. From a historical viewpoint, Baekche is important for having been the first Korean kingdom to establish a government organization. The salient feature of the system of organization established in A.D. 260(the twenty-seventh year of the region of King Goi) was the application of different colors to identify different ranks.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.4
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• pp.149-162
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• 2003

This study is designed for examining the names of men's and women's clothing of Choseon period, which can be divided into the upper, the lower, and the outer garments based on yu유, go고, po포 from the early period. Furthermore, amongst these various garments, this study shall define some kinds of clothing, which is shared its name and its use by both men and women, as the unisex clothing. Lastly we analyzed the special characteristics of this unisex clothing. With the names of clothing in Choseon period, we could understand about the difference of clothing's development by the names for the upper, lower, and outer garments as gender. And we also found the names for the unisex clothing in that period. The names of unisex clothing in Choseon period can roughly be divided into three garments; the upper, the lower, and the outer. Each category can also be subdivided into tku: i. e. the upper garments into jeogori저고리, hansam한삼, sama 삼아, jeoksam적삼, donguidae동의대, and godo고도; the lower garments into go고, gonja고자, and baji[paji파지, pachi파저］; and the outer garments into jangui장의, baeja배자, and juui주의. Furthermore, we can recognize that the shapes and uses of clothes in that period had been represented differently between the men's and women's.

• Earthquakes and Structures
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• v.6 no.6
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• pp.581-609
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• 2014

Reinforced concrete (RC) structures are likely to experience damage when subjected to earthquakes. Damage index (DI) has been recognised as an advanced tool of quantitatively expressing the extent of damage in such structures. Last 30 years have seen many concepts for DI proposed in order to calibrate the observed levels of damage. The current research briefly reviews all available concepts and investigates their relative merits and limitations with a view to proposing a new concept based on residual deformation. Currently available DIs are classified into two broad categories - non-cumulative DI and cumulative DI. Non-cumulative DIs do not include the effects of cyclic loading, whilst the cumulative concepts produce more rational indication of the level of damage in case of earthquake excitations. Ideally, a DI should vary within a scale of 0 to 1 with 0 representing the state of elastic response, and 1 referring to the state of total collapse. Some of the available DIs do not satisfy these criteria. A new DI based on energy is proposed herein and its performances, both for static and for cyclic loadings, are compared with those obtained using the most widely accepted DI in literature. The proposed DI demonstrates a rational way to predict the extent of damage for a number of case studies. More research is encouraged to address some identified issues.

• Advances in concrete construction
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• v.2 no.4
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• pp.261-280
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• 2014

In many parts of the world, reinforced concrete (RC) buildings, designed and built in accordance with older codes, have suffered severe damage or even collapse as a result of recent near-fault earthquakes. This is particularly due to the deficiencies of most of the older (and even some of the recent) codes in dealing with near fault events. In this study, a tested three-storey frame designed for gravity loads only was selected to represent those deficient buildings. Nonlinear time history analyses were performed, followed by damage assessment procedures. The results were compared with experimental observation of the same frame showing a good match. Damage and fragility analyses of the frame subjected to 204 pulse-type motions were then performed using a selected damage model and inter-storey drifts. The results showed that the frame located in near-fault regions is extremely vulnerable to ground motions. The results also showed that the damage model better captures the damage distribution in the frame than inter-storey drifts. The first storey was identified as the most fragile and the inner columns of the first storey suffered most damage as indicated by the damage index. The findings would be helpful in the decision making process prior to the strengthening of buildings in near-fault regions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.2
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• pp.75-91
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• 2015

This study is about Jongi-sim(Paper used for interlining) used in costumes of the Joseon Dynasty. Terms related to Jongi-sim include 'Anji(按紙)', 'Soh(槊)' and 'Gyeok(隔)'. Anji is a term that refers to Jongi-sim used on padded clothes. Soh refers to stiff and thick paper inserted between fabrics. Gyeok is predicted to be a term that refers to the use of paper as both interlining and lining. Chojuji(草注紙) was used for Jongi-sim in Cheolik, Aekjueum, Baji and Dae among kings and crown princes' ceremonial costumes. Chojuji and Jeojuji(楮注紙) were used in women's royal costumes such as Jeogori, Hosu and Chima. Doryeonji(搗鍊紙) was used in Dae and Yangyieom. Gongsangji(供上紙) was used for the interlining or lining in Yangyieom. Excavated costumes that used Jongi-sim for the entire clothes are Cheolik and Jangjeogori. Jongi-sim placed in Git(collar) was sometimes placed together with cotton. Geodeulji of Jangot used paper in invisible parts as to replace fabric by paper. Danryeong and Dapho attached Jongi-sim to Mu, and stiff paper was inserted.

• Computers and Concrete
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.191-207
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• 2015

It is generally accepted that, in the interest of safety, it is essential to provide a minimum level of flexural ductility, which will allow energy dissipation and moment redistribution as required. If one wishes to be uniformly conservative across all of the design variables, curvature ductility and moment redistribution factor should be calculated using a probabilistic method, as is the case for other design parameters in reinforced concrete mechanics. In this study, simple expressions are derived for the evaluation of curvature ductility and moment redistribution factor, based on the concept of demand and capacity rotation. Probabilistic models are then derived for both the curvature ductility and the moment redistribution factor, by means of central limit theorem and through taking advantage of the specific behaviour of moment redistribution factor as a function of curvature ductility and plastic hinge length. The Monte Carlo Simulation (MCS) method is used to check and verify the results of the proposed method. Although some minor simplifications are made in the proposed method, there is a very good agreement between the MCS and the proposed method. The proposed method could be used in any future probabilistic evaluation of curvature ductility and moment redistribution factors.

• Advances in concrete construction
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.29-44
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• 2013

Post earthquake fire (PEF) can lead to the collapse of buildings that are partially damaged in a prior ground-motion that occurred immediately before the fire. The majority of standards and codes for the design of structures against earthquake ignore the possibility of PEF and thus buildings designed with those codes could be too weak when subjected to a fire after an earthquake. An investigation based on sequential analysis inspired by FEMA356 is performed here on the Life-Safety performance level of structures designed to the ACI 318-08 code after they are subjected to two different earthquake levels with PGA of 0.35 g and 0.25 g. This is followed by a four-hour fire analysis of the weakened structure, from which the time it takes for the weakened structure to collapse is calculated. As a benchmark, the fire analysis is also performed for undamaged structure and before occurrence of earthquake. The results show that the vulnerability of structures increases dramatically when a previously damaged structure is exposed to PEF. The results also show the damaging effects of post earthquake fire are exacerbated when initiated from second and third floor. Whilst the investigation is for a certain class of structures (regular building, intermediate reinforced structure, 3 stories), the results confirm the need for the incorporation of post earthquake fire in the process of analysis and design and provides some quantitative measures on the level of associated effects.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.1
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• pp.99-111
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• 2012

This paper investigates the formative features and the historical meaning of the Korean dress collection held in the Horniman Museum in London. The Museum holds eighteen items of Korean dresses donated by Mrs. C. de J. Luxmore in 1948 and by Mrs. Bowra in 1953. Male dresses consist of white silk outer robe (durumagi), a pale violet silk waistcoat (jokki), a jade green silk jacket (jeogori), pale yellow silk trousers (baji), a pair of ankle bands (daenim), a cotton waistband (dae), a silk purse (jumeoni), a rattan under-vest (deungbaeja), a pair of rattan wristlets (deungtosi), a top hat (gat) and a skullcap (tanggeon). Female dresses comprise a jade green silk jacket (jeogori), an ivory silk skirt (chima), a light blue silk petticoat (sokchima), two kinds of white cotton trousers (sokbaji and soksokgot), a pair of silk wristlets (tosi) and a pair of padded socks (beoseon). A Korean dress collection of the Horniman Museum shows a set of ordinary dress items worn by a married couple in the 1930s and the 1940s. Of these items, a silk petticoat (sokchima) and a rattan under-vest (deungbaeja) can be highly evaluated as object resources in the history of Korean dress. The petticoat is a rare and valuable example that represents an early type of modern petticoat that has replaced a traditional petticoat (dansokgot). The rattan under-vest has square neckline and two tiny sleeves similar to a Western cap sleeve. This kind of under-vest is a transitional form shown between under-vest similar to the Korean waistcoat (baeja) and one similar to the Western waistcoat (jokki).