• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
• /
• v.11 no.2
• /
• pp.37-52
• /
• 2011

The purpose of this thesis is to study how Physical Distortion has been developed on the fashion from a surrealistic point of view and how it could be contributed to development of clothing design. This body distortion phenomenon has been started from primitivism times and it is still going on with various ways. Each era's distortion has been changed due to social cultural and environment matters. Especially influences of surrealism on the 20th century art transcended the limit of thought. Since appearance of surrealism 21th century fashion design has been opened up for new possibilities. There are no stereotypes no boundaries and our society is getting increasingly diversified. People in those society is longing to have another esthetic requirements. Also surrealistic physical distortion in the contemporary fashion has been produced unique design with new technology and new material. Physical distortion in fashion possess an infinite possibilities that could concoct the most amazing clothes. Also it has another strong potential that conducting us the way to produce design in novel ways. There is no doubt that surrealistic physical distortion in the contemporary fashion is absolute necessity to continue on evolution of clothing design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.67 no.2
• /
• pp.52-67
• /
• 2017

This is the precedent study on the modern fashion design using Korean emotions, and its aim is to study the expressions in the modern fashion based on 'Jeong-Jung-Dong' idea from Korean dancing, which implicates the Korean emotion deeply among the artworks and give essence similar to the clothing. 'Jeong-Jung-Dong', a unique idea, in the Korean traditional dancing is the philosophy that involve the paradox expression, 'Movement in Silence,' which represented the emotion of Korean dancing for a long time. The main characteristics deducted in 'Jeong-Jung-Dong' were 1) the incomplete and complete by atypical, 2) the beauty of temperance by symbolism, and 3) amusing mutual relationship. Upon the analysis results of previous studies on the expressions in the modern fashion with 'Jeong-Jung-Dong', they demonstrated the atypical expressed by metaphor, symbolic expression through margin, and mutual relational table by harmony. The analysis of modern fashion expression by 'Jeong-Jung-Dong', which is a philosophical idea in the Korean dancing, could highlight the new way of looking at the clothing and systemize the theory on the Korean emotion to seek the effective expression of artistic features for the culture together with introduction of our unique emotion in the creative design process by understanding of humanitarian and philosophical ideologies to be utilized in the future Fashion Design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.65 no.4
• /
• pp.19-30
• /
• 2015

In recent years, various studies about 'Biomorphic design' have been conducted and accelerated among many recent design concepts and methodology. Therefore, this study classifies the types of biomorphic fashion design based on literature review, and select biomorphic fashion designs in the latest fashion designer's collection. This study aimed to determine the types and characteristics of the biomorphic design in fashion design, and analyze the characteristics and the interpreted intrinsic meanings through Greimas Semiotic rectangle model based on the Binary-Opposition of meaning and Isotophy. As the result of analysis, biomorphic designs in fashion are classified as three types: 'representational imitation of form', 'technical imitation of functional features', and 'imitation of symbolic attribute'. 'Representational imitation of form' was derived from an organic design through atypical forms, repetition and extension of figurative forms of nature, and 'the functionalities of the nature' are interpreted as the feature to maintain the condition of the life itself and to attempt to regulate the status of self-autonomy. Lastly, 'the imitation of symbolic attributes' is designing the process of creation, growth, expansion and destruction from circulation of nature.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.21 no.6
• /
• pp.77-86
• /
• 2017

This study aims to explore the unethical issues in leather processing and to develop designs of leather products based on the concept of reincarnation by ecosystem circulation. The method used in this research include the review of previous literature and the design process for development fashion accessories using waste leather. The design process comprises collecting waste leather, classifying waste leather by type, color, and size, and developing leather products according to line carnation method. For this research, the material was limited to waste cowhide leather collected from leather workshops and leather product factories. The leather pieces were divided into typical and atypical types and developed leather accessories based on the leather piece's color and size. A twill brooch, four-string bracelet, a brooch using the four-stringed leather strap and mini handbag designs were developed using regular type waste leather. An armband of abstract patterns and a cellphone case with graffiti pattern using irregular type over-splitting waste leather. The environmental issues in design are observed as part of understanding the significance of this study. Development of waste leather accessory can expand the usability of the waste leather as well as increase the product value by creating limited-line editions. By understanding the role and benefits of sustainable upcycling, this research suggests an efficient way to use waste materials in fashion to coexist with the natural environment.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.24 no.5
• /
• pp.125-139
• /
• 2020

The fashion industry that perceived the severity of environmental pollution, has sought various methods of sustainable fashion. However, most of the businesses paid attention to the development of materials using industrial waste, or vegan material. Thus, this study aims to present the methods for improvement in creativity for inversely developing the design from patterns and present new approaches by applying the contrarian development of proto to class under the limited condition of material concerning general design, selection of material, and production of sample. In the case of three student teams enrolled in the first semester of the second year, the fabric and used clothing donated by industry were used as material. The whole cut for cutting a single fabric in connected state, and Zero Wastes Design within a rectangular frame of fabric, upcycling of used clothes, and cutting out of Geometric Form are suggested. The team(A) produced a zero-wastes coat and whole-cut Pancho that could be variously represented. The team(B) produced two kinds of asymmetric dress by utilizing used check-patterned shirts through upcycling. The team(C) utilized the fabric in geometric forms such as rectangle, trapezoid, and atypical figure by drawing design within donated fabrics. The items were a dress, blouse, and skirt. Consequently, an opportunity for both academia and industry to present more concrete methods for sustainable fashion and deeply perceive the sustainable fashion is presented along with novel methods for creation by carrying out the composition of pattern and design at the same time.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.16 no.1
• /
• pp.13-25
• /
• 2014

The purpose of this study is to investigate the concept and characteristics of 'grotesque,' examine the aesthetic characteristics of grotesque reflected in arts and dress, and modern fashion. The findings are as follows: 1) Grotesque indicates unnatural, unpleasant, and exaggerated that it upsets or shocks person. The characteristics of grotesque include terror, abnormality, unreality, amusement, disgust. 2) The grotesque art represented terror, abnormality, unreality, amusement, disgust by disordered form, nonnatural things, evil world, unorthodox methods, unrealistic image, strange dreamland. 3) The grotesque dress represented terror, abnormality, unreality, amusement, disgust by exaggerated silhouette, exaggerated adornment, excessive decoration, incroyables, using exaggerated silhouette, crinoline silhouette, bustle silhouette, surrealist style, extraordinary materials, glam rock style, unique silhouette, cyber look. 3) Terror was implied in the punk look suits of Junya Watanabe, and exaggerated outers of Viktor & Rolf. Abnormality was shown in the atypical suit of John Galliano, Junya Watanabe's dress decorated with the extreme ruff, Thom Browne's suit of abnormal proportion. Unreality was reflected in the architectural dress of Gareth Pugh, Mermaid dress of Giles, the surreal suit of Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. Amusement was represented in the amusing suit of Gareth Pugh, John Galliano's dress of sexual perversion. Disgust was reflected in the decadent dress of Thierry Mugler, Undercove's suit, and the ensemble of shocking details.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.67 no.4
• /
• pp.71-88
• /
• 2017

The purpose of this study is to reveal that the deconstructive dis de phenomenon in contemporary fashion beauty design can be interpreted from the viewpoint of Korean aesthetics by having an open mind of coexistence. The typical characteristics of dis de phenomenon are decomposition, decentralization, and discontinuity, and these can be compared with beauty of non-artificialness, unity, and humor, which are characteristics of Korean aesthetics. In other words, the dis de-phenomenon rejects traditional composition and uniformized expression, and seeks various images by accepting the bi-national confrontation concept, this is similar to Korean aesthetics, which experienced atypical diversity by concentrating on the inner spirit rather than the outer form through indifference to technique, form, and honest human emotion.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.23 no.4
• /
• pp.554-568
• /
• 2015

Technological change leads to a value shift in human society. Various cultural experiences through the digital paradigm influence the expression of fashion. This article considers fashion film as a new form for presenting fashion and explores the distinctiveness of expression in digital fashion film. For the methodology, a literature review was conducted to examine the concepts and features of digital fashion film and metareality. Empirical research was also performed by drawing from Nick Knight's digital films, "Sans Couture", "#asif", and "The Elegant Universe" and by specifically analyzing the classification of the themes, visuals, and auditory expression. The results are as follows. The proliferation of fashion film has accelerated in the internet environment. New media in the digital era allows images to become more realistic and variable through immaterial conversion. Metareality is the notion of a reality beyond existence. A metarealistic image maintains the metaphysical nature of an object and transcends empirical appearance. It possesses immaterial, transboundary, and multidimensional features, and the image is realized by digital technology. The expression analysis identifies the metareality expressed in contemporary fashion film appearing as atypical forms, irrational combinations, and the playfulness of motion. It shows a positive attitude, transcending the immaterial limit of reality toward fashion. This study indicates how fashion as products challenges the metaphysical transformation in the digital era. The exploration of metareality in digital fashion film promotes a wider perspective and understanding of the concept of fashion.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.16 no.2
• /
• pp.235-248
• /
• 2008

This study is on the characteristics of gloves in the modern fashion and has the purpose to review the style and the feature of gloves coordinated with clothes variously. The study started firstly with reviewing the related literature for the information of the origin, the process of development and the sort of gloves and then verified the results with photographs in the fashion magazines and collections at home and abroad since 1990s. The first characteristic is utility. Lining and covered materials use the materials excellent for keeping warm as the original purpose of wearing gloves is to protect hands against cold weather. It is demonstrated in the fashion collections that coordinating sieves appeals more often in fall-winter season than in spring-summer season. The second is sense of fashion. Gloves are normally coordinated with same materials and colors of clothes. But, gloves could create infinite varieties, make sufficient images through stressing splendid colors on achromatic colored clothes, shaping unique styles, transforming with various materials and ornaments. The last is sense of deconstruction. Gloves are transformed as a sort of clothes beyond the original use. Gloves are coordinated transcending the conventional thoughts, which makes it possible that Stoves appear in summer season, not in winter. Coordinating gloves appears free and unique through atypical formation.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.9 no.3
• /
• pp.221-230
• /
• 2007

This research was focused on the changes of layered techniques in Hussein Chalayan's collections. For this purpose, the layered techniques in 134 works from Chalayan's collections, 97S/S to 06S/S, which were obtained from fashion magazines and fashion internet site, were analyzed and classified into 15 groups. Layered techniques in his works apparently expressed his philosophy about deconstruction. Multilayered feeling was given through using various techniques such as one layer clothing which was showed like multi-layered clothing. Others were multi-layer clothing which felt like one layer, breaking the stereotyped line of clothing into atypical construction and using various materials or constructive lines which made the optical feeling like one layer or multi-layer clothing, and so on. These layered techniques in Chalayan's collections were differentiated into several categories, such as techniques which were revealed in every collections, techniques which were differentiated from one another collections, techniques which were continuously showed through three collections for connection with each collection, techniques which were used only for Spring/Summer season, and techniques which were uniquely showed in early collection or recent collections.