• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.47 no.6
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• pp.1027-1037
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• 2023

This paper presents an efficient method for generating informative apparel fit comments by analyzing 122 fit reviews found in 7 menswear patternmaking textbooks, which include both domestic and foreign sources. The fit reviews for menswear were categorized into top and bottoms, and the expressions varied based on body parts, causes, and fit issue appearances. The causes of fit issues could be attributed to size errors and structural errors in both top and bottoms. Both top and bottoms had fit reviews concerning unique body types, but it could cause trouble among learners as both were based on unclear criteria for body type classification and lacked relevant explanations. Common fit issue appearances included compound wrinkles, pulling wrinkles, sagging wrinkles, and garment being away from the body. No clear correlation was observed between the causes of fit issues and specific appearances. Limitations were identified in using textbooks as educational data, such as inconsistent solutions for different body types or fit issues, and the presence of ambiguous visual materials. As a result, strategies such as categorizing fit issue appearances, providing 3D visual examples with subcategorized causes, body types and parts could enhance quality of fit reviews and improve fit outcomes in clothing production systems.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.45-57
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• 2023

This research compared and analyzed a representative jacket pattern making method to suggest implications for the mass customization process of clothing. Four types of pattern making methods were selected according to the degree of reflection of human body measurements. Patterns were analyzed according to the size of middle-aged women. The results of this study are as follows. First, it identified and compared the difference in human body measurement and drafting processes required for pattern drafting. Next, as a result of analyzing the manuals and institutional figures presented in the pattern drafting manuals, problems such as B.P. location and compartment of the chest circumference, which are not appropriate, were found and the human body measurement method is different for each pattern making method. Through the above analysis, the advantages and disadvantages of the pattern making methods were identified and proposed improvements and implications for the application to the apaarel mass customization process were presented.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.834-848
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyse the research trends and to find a future direction in the area of clothing construction in Korea. The data were included articles on clothing construction published in the five major journals from 2000 through 2008 in Korea. The identified 513 articles were categorized in eight areas: design related clothing construction, study of body types, study of patterns, size of apparel, fitting of clothing, protective clothing and functional clothing, sewing and the others. In the results of examining the percentage of articles on clothing construction among articles published in each journal, the percentage of articles on clothing construction was highest as 21.2% in the Journal of Korean Home Economics and next, 19.3% in the Research Journal of the Costume Culture. As to the percentage of research on clothing construction according to theme, research on protective clothing and functional clothing were largest as 28.2%, and next, research on body types as 18.9%, and research on garment size systems as 10.5%. Research on protective clothing has increased remarkably since 2000, and particularly in 2004 it was so active that it occupied 44.1% of research on clothing construction. Next, with regard to the subjects of research, research with female subjects was more frequent than that with male subjects according to gender, and research with men and women in their twenties was most frequent according to age. These results show somewhat unbalanced tendencies in terms of research subjects.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.2 s.67
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• pp.276-283
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• 2007

The purpose of this study were to investigate characteristic changes on nonwoven fabric for disposable work clothes by the yellow soil printing. It separate grind yellow soil as two different size of particles $45\sim52{\mu}m$ and $53\sim65{\mu}m$ for hand screen printing on three kind of nonwoven fabrics. To examine the effect of yellow soil printing on nonwoven fabric were to observe, dyeability by using spectrophotometer, moisture regain by oven method, air permeability, anion property and antibacterial activity. The results were as follows: When yellow soil concentration increased from 5 to 10%, K/S value also increased from 1.05 to 1.88. When yellow soil concentration increased, moisture regain also increased. In same concentration, moisture regain occurred higher as particle of small size. Air permeability decreased when the charcoal printing concentration increased. Anion occurrence appeared $140\sim160ion/cc$ from three different kinds of nonwoven fabrics in 3% and 9% yellow soil concentration. Therefore, occurred anion ineffectively. In concentration of 3%, rate of deodorization measured as 89%, 83% and 87%, and 9% concentration caused 96%, 86% and 93% of high deodorization. Antibacterial activity examination in nonfinished nonwoven fabric resulted range of 60%, however, 3% and 9% concentration finished nonwoven fabric resulted 99.9% of excellent antibacterial activity Surface temperature increased $1.5\sim2^{\circ}C$ by yellow soil finishing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.445-454
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• 2008

The existing baseline taping methods were not applicable sometimes according to the body shape of dress form and they were often dependent on the personal ability and knowledge of modelist. It is very important to suggest the standardized baseline taping method which is applicable to various dress forms which have different body size and shape. It helps to communicate about clothing design and patternmaking between designer and manufacturer, and it also makes students to understand draping easily. So this study was performed to suggest the standardized baseline taping method which is easier and has consistency of taping result regardless of body shape of dress form. First, the existing 7 baseline taping methods were compared with 3 kinds of dress form which are reflecting different body shape and different age. Especially the location of baselines and landmarks which are important for draping are analyzed. Second, the new baseline taping method was developed with reference to the existing baseline taping methods, the standard body measurements of 2004 Size Korea and flat patternmaking. The standardized method for 12 landmarks and 11 baseline was suggested. Third, the appraisal group has performed baseline taping with both the existing method and new method on 2 kinds of dress form. The new method was superior to the existing method in uniformity of taping results as well as the degree of difficulty of taping. Development of the standardized baseline taping method which is applicable to various dress forms would make draping easier and be useful for both apparel industry and academia.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.3
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• pp.87-104
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• 2000

The women's apparel sizing system, currently used in the Korean industry, does not reflect measurement differences associated with varying body types and age. Forty five body meaqsurements were taken on 560 subjects, whoes eages ranged from 18-24. STatistical analysis of the data was coducted by using frequences, crosstables, correlation, oneway ANOVA, Regressio analysis. The results of this study were as follow. 1. Average height of women in their early 20's is 160cm, average bust girth 82cm, average hip girth 90cm and average drop 809. The correlation between height and grth items were low and the correlation of length items in the superior and inferior body were shown to bo high respectively. 2. The average Rhrer index is 1.28 and they ussually seem to be in the thin and standard body group. 3. body types were divided by differences between hip and bust sizes. N type(medium hip), A type (large hip), H type(small hip). A classification by body type showed that N type made up 58% while a type made up 24%. 4. The garment sizes for women in their early 20's were developed. 5. The new basic blocks and garment sizes for women in their early 20's were developed as follows : Bust girth (1/2) = 76N, 76A, 79A type($\frac{1}{2}$B+ 4cm) 79N type($\frac{1}{2}$B+ 3.5cm) 82N, 85N type ($\frac{1}{2}$B +3cm) Hip girth($\frac{1}{2}$) =N type($\frac{1}{2}$H + 2~2.5cm) Atype($\frac{1}{2}$H +1.5~2cm) Waist girth($\frac{1}{2}$)=$\frac{1}{2}$W + 2-3cm Back length =extimated measure -0.5cm Front length=76A, N (Back length + 2.2cm) 79A, N(back length +2.7cm) 82N(Back length +3.2cm) 85N(Back length + 3.7cm) Sleeve length=Sleeve length +3cm.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.4
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• pp.722-740
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• 2017

This study was conducted to offer basic data that can be used in a clothing industry for active senior males that are emerging as a new consumer bracket in a rapid aging age. To this end, this study conducted an analysis of 'younger' older male body types based on data from the 6th Size Korea. As a result of the body type analysis of 'younger' older males who are considered active seniors in comparison to 'middle' aged males, the former's height items became shorter compared to 'middle' aged males, but circumference items were bigger. Males aged 35-69, who are 'middle' aged males and 'younger' old males were divided into three body types in this study: Type1- small body type with protruded belly, compared to weight. Type 2- body type of slim torso with wide shoulder-back widths. Type3- big body type overall with tall height and heavy weight. According to body type distribution by age group, the middle-aged males had Type2 body type the most. The younger-old males showed type1 the most. There is a need to reflect the body types of active senior male characteristics in apparel pattern design because the current fits are not appropriate if active senior males wear clothing targeted for males aged 30-50.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.354-363
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to provide some preliminary results on application of 3D scan data of head shapes to the hat design and pattern-making. This paper defined necessary measurement items and concepts in 3-dimensional images of head shapes. And also it presented the methodology to pattern-making of 6-piece crown hat based on 3D data. It used the data of Size Korea to pick up and choose a head shape model with the average head size of Korean women in their twenties. Main results were: 1. The 3D scan data of head shape was better than the 1 dimensional measurement data. Because I could establish a hat pattern-making theory by the 3D scan data of head. 2. The 3D scan data provided the basis for conceptualization of basic measurement points and items for a better fit of hats as well as the definition of the basic hat circumference. 3. This presented a methodology for analyzing out head shape by 3D scan data, and allowed the derivation of the basic hat circumference from the maximum head circumference. 4. As the 6-piece Crown cloche hat made by this method fitted the head shape model perfectly, this methodology could suggest potential applicability to various hat design.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.834-840
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• 2013

This study aims to suggest practical considerations for designing protective clothing with increased visibility that will have higher user acceptance by law enforcement officers. Light-emitting diode(LED) patrol vests were visually and structurally assessed, and 125 police officers' responses from surveys about user acceptance of the vest were analyzed. The current LED patrol vest was designed for enhanced safety of police officers by increasing visibility in the dark. However, the user acceptance rate of the LED patrol vest indicates low use of and low satisfaction with the vest despite its enhanced safety features. In particular, differences in materials, design, functionality of the pockets and size of the vest depending on the hours worked, were statistically significant. The police officers' responses suggest areas of improvement in design, materials, ease of movement, size and functionality. Key issues include 'tactile discomfort'; 'impeded vision from the glare of the LED'; 'frequent malfunctions of the LED'; 'impossible repair of the broken LED units'; 'no user feedback'; 'inconvenient to replace batteries'; 'brittle materials' and 'unpleasing look'. To increase user acceptance, designer should incorporate context-awareness, a convenient user interface, a modular design approach, first responders' self-image as public servants in relation to their aesthetic perspectives of their uniforms, and scientific evaluation of the effectiveness of the intended functions of the clothing. Suggested implications for designing the LED patrol vest can be applied to designing other functional/protective clothing for intended end users with special needs.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.25-38
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to develop a dress form for elderly women according to their somatotype to be used for improving the fit of garments and patterns. Analyzing each somatotype, there was a significant difference among the 4 somatotypes in most of measure items. Bend-forward Group had shorter front length items. Abdomen-fat Group had lower upper-body values than Average Group and similar lower-body values to Fat Group. In most items except height, Fat Group had the biggest values. Analyzing the mean cross-section according to the section measurement parts, no difference existed in shoulder part and under bust part. However, in upper bust, bust, waist, abdomen, high hip, and hip parts, a significant difference existed. Also, according to the results of the mean cross-section as well as the average cross overlap section for each somatotype, there was a significant difference among the four somatotypes. Thus, Abdomen-fat Group and Fat Group were similar, while Bend-forward Group and Average Group were alike. According to the increase of age, lower body tended to have more conspicuous changes. Analyzing the profile of somatotypes, there existed a obvious significant difference among the 4 somatotypes, implying that the characteristics of somatotype need to be reflected when to develop dress forms for elderly women. Therefore, these differences must be an essential factor in pattern design. Comparing the current dress form with the dress form developed with simulation, we could find that a dress form developed for elderly women which reflects the characteristics of body shape is much better than a dress form developed by simple size variation such as small, medium and large size divisions to improve the fit of garments and pattern designs.