• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.3
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• pp.84-95
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to provide basic data reflecting body characteristics for production of briefs by classifying lower body types of women in their 40s, 50s and 60s. The results are as follows: First, measurements for height-related items decreased while the measurements for width and depth items increased with age. However, 'hip width' and 'hip depth' items showed no significant differences among the age groups. In addition, no visible differences appeared in the length items among the age groups but 'waist to hip' and 'outside leg' lengths showed decreasing values according to age. Second, four factors were established from the factor analysis: 'obesity level around waist and abdomen', 'vertical length of the lower body', 'thickness and obesity level of lower limbs', and, 'size and shape of buttocks'. Lastly, cluster analysis resulted in the classification of the four factors mentioned above. Type 2 appeared the most, representing women in their 40s~60s. Type 1(n=257) was referred as 'slender with a short lower body', Type 2(n=443) as 'plump with short lower body', Type 3(n=224) as 'slender with long lower body', and Type 4(n=199) as 'obese around abdomen and lower limbs'.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.80-85
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to examine the characteristics of armscye circumference which will be used to develop total contents for the apparel industry. The subjects of this study were 16- to 49-year-old women whose 3D body shape data were analyzed. 72 length and length-ratio measurements were taken to each subject' armscye circumference. The used analysis methods are descriptive statistics, principal component analysis, and cluster analysis. The results are follows; 1. Considering the Length of armscye circumference, the result of principal component analysis were extracted 3 factors and those factors comprised 95% of total variance. As the result of the cluster analysis of factor scores, subjects were classified into 4 cluster by their size characteristic. 2. Considering the length-ratio of armscye circumference, the result of principal component analysis were extracted 5 factors and those factors comprised 96.45% of total variance. As the result of the cluster analysis of factor scores, subjects were classified into 5 cluster by their shape characteristic. So that, this research could be useful to manufacture garment which reflected 3D body figure and improved fitting.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.5
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• pp.733-742
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• 2014

This study investigated the degree of inconvenience in existing ready-made clothes and clothing preferences through a survey of 197 wheelchair-bound males in order to provide preliminary data for the development of a suit that considers the physical characteristics and requirements of the disabled in wheelchairs for improved quality of living and positive interpersonal relations. Among the survey respondents, the 30s to 40s age group was the largest at 71.6%. The most common type of disability was myelopathy at 72.6%. Also 59.9% of respondents had a job and ongoing external and social activities. As for the duration of wheelchair use, 10-20 years was the longest at 40.6%. It was found from the survey that respondents felt inconvenienced with existing clothes and changing pants was most inconvenient. Most experienced having their clothes altered due to the difficulty in finding well-fitting ones; consequently, the length of pants was the most altered item because pants are based on the size of a standing man and there exists a discrepancy in length due to the atrophy of the legs of the disabled. They preferred one style in general for clothing preferences as well as common design and details as well. However, they preferred a style with a short front and long back due to a discomfort in jacket length. A short length was the most complained about pants item.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.4
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• pp.131-138
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to measure Korean, Chinese and Chosunjok college women's body part sizes, and then, classify their body shapes according to the drop value(hip circumference-chest circumference) as well as their statures, and thereupon, comparatively analyze the statistical distribution of their major body part measurements and thereby, provide for some basic data useful to the development of quality fitting apparels exportable to China. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; Most of Korean and Chinese college women were found to belong to the body type of "N" body shape, while many of Chosunjok college women belonged to "H" body shape body type characterized by normal stature but small difference between hip and chest circumferences. The most prevailing body type of Korean and Chinese college women next to "N" type(65%, 51%) was "H" (23%, 35%), followed by "A" type(12%, 14%), while that of Chosunjok college women was "H" type (54%), followed by "N" (40%) and "A" type (6%). On the other hand, in terms of distribution of major body part sizes, there was found a wide difference between Chinese and Korean college women. Chosunjok college women had similar body part sizes to Korean college women's in such measurements as waist back length, shoulder-to-shoulder length, front interscye length, back interscye length, under-chest circumference and weight, while having simliar body part sizes to Chinese college women's in such measures as stature, arm length, waist front length, waist side-hip line length, crotch length, head circumference, neck-root circumference and waist circumference.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.19-37
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to apply the characteristics of David Hockney's paintings to fashion illustration and thereby, review how pure art can be harmoniously grafted onto fashion commodities and thereupon, suggest a far more developed and unique fashion illustration. For the research, this study analyzed David Hockney's late painting works, after the 1980s; the analysis was focused on photo collages, multiple perspectives, the movement of the viewpoint, and lights and colors. In order to produce an artwork, the researcher selected 4 painting works; one work for decade for the period from the 1980s to the 2010s. This study selected 'shoes' as subjects for expression in an effort to depart from the convention approach of focusing on apparel and thereby, suggest some differentiated fashion illustrations. In terms of the artwork production size, four canvases #5 were combined into a set, and thus, a total of four sets were developed. The results are as follows. First, it was very interesting to develop a fashion illustration making use of David Hockney's paintings, and it was proven that the fashion illustration applying the sensitivity of the pure art would provide a unique sense of art. Secondly, as the boundary among disciplines becomes blurred, painting provides a new source of insights and motifs to the diverse design areas to satisfy diversified human needs, and furthermore, the development and diversified application of the fashion illustrations could be confirmed. Thirdly, David Hockney's differentiated world of art, technique of expression and sensitive colors could well be applied to fashion illustrations. This study proves that we fashion artists can depart from the conventional expressions focused on the apparel to expand the fashion illustration into lady's high heels.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.1062-1070
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• 1996

Concept of the comfort and fitness has become a major concern in the basic function of the ready-made clothes. Until now, ready-made clothes were not made by on the basis of the bodytype, but by the body size only. This research was performed to classify and characterize the bodytypes of Korean adult males. Sample size was 1290 subjects and their age range was from 19 to 54 years old. 15 variables from the photographic data of 1112 subjects were applied to analyse the bodytype of th\ulcorner lower part of trunk. Data were analyzed by the multivariate method, especially factor and cluster analysis. The groups forming a cluster can be subdivided into 5 sets by crosstabulation extracted by the hierarchical cluster analysis. 5 bodytypes classified by the photographic sources could be combined with the anthropcmetric data and were demonstrated with 5 silhouette. Type 2 and 3 in the lower part of trunk were dominant and were composed of the majority of 56.8% of the subjects. Bodytypes of Korean males were influenced by the degree of posture erectness and of curvature of the front side of the body in waist and abdomen.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.594-603
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• 2012

This study aimed to investigate a bias pattern making method with geometrical approach. The bias-cut dress has soft silhouette of drape in the garment. However, the bias cut dress has problem of satisfying the intended garment size spec. This problem occurs from various sources. The main reason is that the bias-cut fabric tends to stretch on longitudinal direction and to shrink horizontal direction when it was hung on the body. The goal of this study was to develop a bias-cut dress pattern making method satisfying the intended garment size spec. The researchers developed the geometrical method of measuring dimensional change by calculating the compensation ratio of the fabric in true bias direction. The compensation ratio was calculated by applying draping ratio of the fabric. Three types of fabrics were used in the experiment. The warp and weft crossing angle of fabric was ranged from $78^{\circ}$ to $82^{\circ}$. The fabrics stretched longitudinally 6.9~9.9% and shrank horizontally 7.2~11.0%. The compensation ratio of the bias-cut pattern for sample dress was calculated for each fabric type. Two types of experimental bias-cut dress patterns were developed for each fabric. One pattern was made with applying full compensation ratio and the other one made with applying partial ratio of the fabric. Experimental dresses were made with these patterns. The results of the evaluation showed that the bias-cut dress pattern applying the partial compensation ratio was more appropriate than the pattern applying the full compensation ratio.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.923-936
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• 2012

Apparel companies define their target customers to integrate consumers' needs into their product development processes. The sizing standards play a significant role in ready-to-wear garment business. Consumers' body build and sizes are different according to gender, age, and body type. The consumers' morphological feature of the one geographical area has changed with immigration, aging, and lifestyle change. In this study the way of defining body types in the standard garment sizing systems published in USA., UK, Germany, Japan, and Korea were compared. The results of this study show that most of the systems classified the body types by the index value. The chest-waist drop value was used for men's body type classification. Women's body types were defined by hip proportion. The hip-bust drop value was used for it. German and European garment sizing systems provide a wide range of men's body types. US men's garment sizes are developed for very conservative body type. US women's garment sizing system has had clearly defined women's body types. The Misses body types projected in the US garment sizing system had changed as women's waist girth got bigger compared to the past. In 2011 the US Misses sizes were divided into Curvy Misses size and Straight Misses size by the hip-waist drop value. The Curvy Misses sizes have smaller waist girth and larger hip girth than the Straight Misses sizes.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.42 no.10 s.200
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• pp.53-61
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to provide information for the manufacturers of shoes for males to develop more adequate footwear. The data was collected through a questionnaire on purchasing and wearing practices of footwear, and overall satisfaction with the shoes for males. The questionnaire survey was conducted on 237 male adults in the Cheongju area. Most of the respondents were commuting by their own cars and the average walking time in their shoes was five minutes per day. The main reasons for buying new footwear were to replace the worn out footwear or to adapt the color and design coordination with other apparel. Males generally bought footwear from sports brand retailers and individual footwear stores. The criteria for purchasing in order of considered were size, design, price, comfort, and style coordination. During the spring, autumn and winter seasons, the footwear of first choice was ordinary shoes, followed by exercise shoes, but during the summer season they wore sandals next to the ordinary shoes. Regarding the form of the shoes, they preferred classic models with round front and strings. They were satisfied with the design, color and size of the shoes, but the price, quality and durability of the material were considered to be unsatisfactory.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.88-98
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• 2005

This study focuses on the needs at both consumers and manufacturers. It aims to find ways for consumers to purchase outfits that would fit their particular body type and preferences at reasonable prices, choose raw materials and style at garments, and virtually try them on. In addition, the study is designed to help apparel manufacturers identity customers' changing needs, reduce inventories, manage information on customers' body type in a digitalized form, and eventually contribute to promoting electronic commerce. Based on nine basic patterns that tit each subject, 108 virtual garments are created by adjusting the size of the patterns (9 subjects $\times$ 4 body parts $\times$ 3 patterns = 108 outfits). In order to determine fitting preferences for each body part and find optimized conditions, cross-tabulation analysis including $X^2$ and frequency analysis were performed to measure the appearance rate. A style of virtual garment, which is minus 2cm from chest size was chosen as the most appropriate pattern to the baseline location of front the chest. For the waist parts, the C style as an appropriate virtual garment to front and back view. In the front, lateral and back view, a style was chosen in the response to the sleeve-bodice combinations, the ease amount of armhole area, the armhole depth and the loosening of tightening or armhole line.