• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.2 s.67
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• pp.284-298
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• 2007

Due to consumers' preferences for seeking a quality life and having more leisure time, comfortableness became a major criteria for selecting clothes for all age groups. This is why consumers' interests in knitwear increased recently. The purpose of this study is to analyze the knitwear consumption patterns such as style preferences, and consumer satisfaction with knitwear. Particularly, differences in age groups of consumers were analyzed. Data from 463 men and women participated in the study. Results indicated that consumers wear knits once or twice a week in average. After two to three years of consumption, they discard the knitwear. Among various apparel product categories, Consumers selected Cardigan to be the preferable knitwear product category. They preferred 100% cotton and achromatic or gray/brown color with solid fabrics. In general, consumers were most satisfied with colors and least satisfied with laundering of knitwear. Older consumers preferred knitwear to woven products, preferred pull-over style and valued feelings of softness and comfortableness when wearing knitwear. There were more differences in dissatisfaction factors than satisfaction factors according to the consumer age groups.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.45-53
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• 2008

Different method of textile fabrication had existed since the ancient times, but the most dominant form was the 'weaving' method which embodies the cross fabrication of vertical and horizontal threads using special weaving machines (looms). In addition, fabrication methods like knitting, felt, and lace were commonly practiced while intertwinement methods like twisting, braiding, and knotting techniques were frequently used for weaving strings and braid type textiles. In the past, people did not pay attention to strings and braids because they were classified as non-textiles, but, in this paper, we have expanded the scope of definition of textile to include strings and braids, and seek to conduct in-depth research on various different intertwinement of textiles. The adaptation of intertwinement method in arts and crafts enables limitless creative works reflecting the ever-changing taste and style of the creator. This creativity is further broadened by the fact that intertwinement methods encompass no set patterns and the subject and shape of its creation is as broad as its artistic pursuits. We can infer the knowledge of our ancestors, their aesthetic taste, and the pattern of life from these creations. In addition, these creations can provide comfort and improve the quality of life of modem people who are deeply deprived of sentimental and emotional solitude in the technological civilization of the 21stcentury. The main purpose of this paper is to examine traditional Korean arts and crafts made using the intertwinement methodology through the context of strings, braids, straw crafts and knotting method. Then it will conduct through research on the different materials, forms, characteristics, usage and other key notions based on the currently preserved records and relics to contribute to the research on traditional textiles and provide the foundations to the development of the Korean culture and cultural products, reflecting the true sole and aesthetics of traditional Korean textile crafts.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.45 no.7
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• pp.105-117
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• 2007

The purposes of this study were 1) to classify adult consumers according to their desired clothing benefits on natural-dyed clothes, 2) to identify the differences of life-style among the classified groups, and 3) to determine the interest in Korean traditional culture, interest in dyeing, and demographics among the groups. The survey subjects were 283 adults. The data were analyzed utilizing factor analysis, cluster analysis, $x^2$-test, one-way ANOVA, Duncan test and multiple regression analysis. Based on the 6 dimensions of clothing benefits that were identified by factor analysis, adult consumers were classified into three clusters: eco-friendly oriented group showing the highest scores in environment conservation and comfort in clothing benefits, individuality-oriented group showing the highest scores in individuality and quality, and indifference group showing lower scores in all of the desired clothing benefits. The eco-friendly group showed the highest scores in attitude toward Korean traditional culture, and tended to have the most interest in natural and traditional methods of dyeing. The group members appeared to have passive life-styles, be older and married, and have a higher income than the other groups. The more positive attitude they had in Korean traditional culture, the higher was the purchase intention shown in the eco-friendly group. The individuality-oriented group showed active life-styles. This group tended to be younger than the other group. The more affirmative attitude in Korean traditional culture and the greater interest in the natural dyeing, the higher was the consumers' purchase intention of natural dyeing apparels. The indifference group tended to be younger, unmarried, and have a lower income. This group was not interested in natural dyeing apparels. The study findings demonstrated that consumers with different clothing benefits sought have different buying patterns on natural dyeing apparels. Finally the marketing implications are discussed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.1
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• pp.135-146
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to investigate the meaning and possible shape of Goryeo-Achungunsura-jisun(高麗鴉靑雲袖羅質孫) through the details regarding its color, fabric, and pattern in the $13-14^{th}$ century writings and costume relics. Goryeo-Achungunsura-jisun was the summer dress coat that government officials wore during the Jisun feast of Yuan, and it was symbolic of the political strategy of Yuan as well as the excellent Goryeo fabric material, but no relics remain. During this period, Achung (dark blue)was the color that was used to dye silk, dress coats of upper class men, and background fabric of the embroidered official patch. And, the term, Yunsu (cloud sleeves), was probably sleeves with cloud pattern. The most typical cloud pattern in the 13 and the $14^{th}$ century was the 'flowing, gathering-headed cloud'. The Ra(silk gauze) weaving technique of Goryeo was developed rapidly in the $12^{th}$ century, and the quality of the Ra in the late Goryeo was good enough to be used for making the official's dress coat in the golden age of Yuan. According to the characteristic of jisun and man's formal-suit style in the Mongolian-Yuan, the possible styles for Goryeo-Achungunsura-jisun can be summarized as follows: a basic Mongolian gown with narrow sleeves and deep crossed diagonal opening, a Mongolian gown with waist pleats, the combination of half sleeved gown and long sleeved Mongolian gown. These styles would be made of delicate Goryeo Ra, cloud patterned sleeves, fabrics dyed in dark blue color, and shawl or embroidered patch ornaments for officials of Yuan, which was more simple than materials for Khan's Jisun to avoid rebellions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.5
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• pp.691-703
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• 2013

The costume culture of ladies in late Goryeo is an important and rare source for cultural fashion souvenir design. This study investigates the historical costume design sources of late Goryeo to suggest high quality traditional and practical ornament souvenir designs for female dolls as well as examples of coordination with doll costumes. The costume culture of late Goryeo contained golden Buddhism and a revival of $12^{th}$ century Goryeo costume characteristic after the period of Mongolian influences from the Yuan. The main sources for doll ornament designs are $14^{th}$ century Buddhist paintings, a few ornament relics of Goryeo, ancient literature, and portraits of ladies in the $14^{th}$ century that originated from five doll's traditional ornaments (lotus hairpin, cloud-shaped hairpin, Buddhist flower hair ornament, vase-shaped Binyeo, and bell of animalhuman face) and three wig designs (wigs from Buddhist paintings and portraits, and hairpiece) with bleached gilding silver, silk, various gemstones and synthetic hair. These doll ornament and wig designs imply the symbol of Buddhism, exorcism, and costume culture of $14^{th}$ century Goryeo ladies that can be matched with two doll gowns, half-sleeved jacket, skirt, two Jogoris, apron, under trousers as formal, semi-formal, and town-wear according to the T.P.O of late Goryeo; in addition, five ornaments can be used as owner's ornaments. The partial changing colors and materials due to the characteristics of doll ornament goods as well as better communication between researcher and constructor remain to be improved.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.4
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• pp.93-101
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to provide for the basic data useful to the effective production and thereby, help them improve their apparel life. For this purpose, 180 Korean mothers who bring up from newborns to fouryear-old babies were sampled to survey their practices of purchasing the infant's wear and positively identify the factors affecting the practices. Data is processed by a computer(SAS) and analyzed by using frequency, percentage, $\chi^2$-test, Duncan's Multiple Range test. The main results of this study are as follows; 1. The mothers tend to gather the information from the items displayed(50.6%) in the stores. The criteria for purchasing considerably depends on the 2. The places of purchasing on which the mothers rely most for infant's wear are department stores(35.2%) and stores nearby their house(28.5%). The frequency of infant's wear depend on the change of season and necessity. 3. It had been disclosed that the brand favored most by the mothers is AGABANG(48.6%). The most influential factors for the popularity of brands are Design(53.1%). The most important reference affecting the mother's choice of infant's wear is size(51.1%) followed by functionality and price(26.7%). After the purchase, mothers are discontent with the high prices of infant's wear. In all, it has been found through this study that the behavior of number in purchasing infant's wear was influenced by many external factors. Therefore, manufacturers and retailers should manufcture and sell products that are of the highest quality. This must be their utmost concern for the satisfaction of their customers.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.178-190
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to make reference for geometric fashion by investigating geometric patterns by linear types and to propose high value added print and fashion design by designing and producing geometric prints and apparel with them focusing on digital textile printing. As a method of the study, visual and textural data were investigated for theory of geometric pattern and fashion design samples were illustrated. The geometric pattern could be defined as abstract pattern which was crossed with straight line or curve. We could group it into three classes such as straight linear, curved, and mixed type. Images varied with linear types. The image of straight linear type was sharp and modern, that of curved one was soft and feminine and that of mixed one was gorgeous and artistic. And then, 3 geometric prints and 3 one-pieces were designed. The concept of design was simple optimism which was based on sixties. Target was young optimistic women group from the mid teens to the mid twenties who continued to seek after their unique individuality keeping their modern lifestyle. Geometric patterns with straight linear, curved, and mixed type were designed and dresses which went well with them were designed and produced. According to the result of this study, images of geometric fashion can be represented diversely by varying linear type, digital textile printing is good method for high value added geometric fashion because of its high quality and degree of sensitivity, and geometric pattern is a good source for contemporary fashion.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.83-98
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to find out the orientations and characteristic in clothes buying of each age group of elderly women, based on the actual self-image and the ideal self-image of clothing. Grasping the diversity of their clothes' buying orientations will be helpful in making a better merchandise production planning for apparel, and in launching new brands into the market. The study will also provide useful data in developing sales strategies which enable to supply goods that meet consumers' needs and tastes in the quality market, and consequently will help to classify the market. Samples were 488 women of 55 and over, dwelling in Pusan Metropolitan City. The data was analysed by using MANOVA, ANOVA, and the Cronbach's $\alpha$ reliability was also applied. The conclusions based on the theoretical background and the result of questionnaire surveys were as follows: 1. The order of priority of buying orientations based on clothes's actual self-image was 'practicality', 'cautiousness' and 'economical effectiveness' without regard to age. The items that showed the significant differences in 50's were 'cautiousness', 'experimentation', 'fashion-consciousness' and ostentatiouness, and in 70's were 'economical effectiveness', 'experimentation', 'impulsiveness' and 'environmental friendliness', and none in 60's. 2. The order of priority based on clothes' ideal self-image was the same as that of actual one, and there was no significant difference between age groups.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.299-309
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• 2019

Citation frequency is an important factor in evaluating journal quality and is used as a measure of journal impact. The citation index of a paper plays an important role in linking papers with groups of other academic papers, forming a huge and complex network. This study examines the intellectual structure of apparel research through the bibliometric citation analysis of The Research Journal of the Costume Culture (RJCC). In order to analyze the changes in the intellectual structure of the RJCC, we used the Korea Citation Index's (KCI) data (highly citing journals and highly cited journals). The NodeXL, a social network analysis tool, was used to examine the connection structure between journals. In order to identify the academic influence of the RJCC, we used the KCI journal citation index. Our findings indicate that the RJCC has a high centrality index among the clothing-oriented journals in the same life sciences field. A look at the journals citing the RJCC and the journals cited within the RJCC also showed that more journals of diverse fields have been recently linked through their citations. This suggests that a convergence of interdisciplinary research is underway in the field of clothing. As a result of examining international journals cited in the RJCC, it was confirmed that they were cited in prominent international journals in various fields.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.25-33
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• 2001

This study is to analyze Korean-Chinese women's Costume in Yabian with factors such as reform opening-up, economic growth, change of social values, development of technology, more education opportunities and influence of mass media. It divides the 1990's into two halves. Photos, interview, observation and relevant literature were used for this study. Even though economy grew rapidly, they needed to purchase daily goods other than clothes. In a way that they preferred practicality, it showed somewhat it was still developing. The trend in the first half of the 1990's was characterized : first, Synthetic or artificial fibers and ready-made suits were popular ; second, there still remained the men's style ; third, they wore Tanrikoo(彈力袴), Tisingkoo(體型袴), Jiaotakoo(脚袴) because of its properties of activeness and comfort ; fourth, shoulders looked ore prominent with pads as they were used in Chungsanfoo(中山服) ; fifth, clothes in grey and dark blue was in fashion ; sixth, they wore hand-made knit vests and sweaters and often mountain-climbing gears for its light and warm quality ; seventh, along with opening-up, various materials and colorful clothes were in style, which satisfied women's desire for beauty. They decorated Hanbok(韓服), using sleeves with colors, golden ornaments, flower patterns embroidery, materials of different color in collar and tie and dyes of sleeves and skirts. In the first half of the 1990's when the opening-up was beginning, there were diverse styles and colors in fashion, yet not close to good quality. As the economy grew, the second half of the 1990's was characterized by good palate, individuality, favouritism on foreign goods, rapid change of fashion. For instance, fur coat and woolen fabric were favored. Economic growth led to abundance of cloth, dyes and decorative materials. In addition, people possessed more clothing and it was possible for them to wear both Hanbok and wedding dress in wedding ceremony. People placed their standards on competency and financial ability rather than ideology. Worship disappeared and individuality arose. Therefore, apparel functioned not only as protection but as suits with aesthetic purpose. This resulted in introduction of bold style, imitation of western countries and extension of use of Hanbok. With the help of mass media, transportation, telecommunication, contact with Korean company and civilians, Korean and western cultures, through Korea, were accepted. Change in structure of economic status caused excessive spending and more educational opportunities that enabled people to accept foreign culture quickly. Values moved onto new, beautiful and better characteristics. it was possible to have suits ready-made due to improvement of mass production and cotten, wool, linen, silk became popular owing to technology. New technology, the bases of mass consumption, increased possession of clothing and accelerated change of fashion. In summary, women's Costume in Yanbian were affected by the factors in economy, politics, culture contact as well as change of society and technology.