• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.12 no.6 s.53
• /
• pp.953-970
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this study was to design men's jacket pattern for variable body types by employing the data of wearing evaluation from experimental basic bodices selected by male subjects in the 30's. As a result of sensory evaluation, functional test and clothing pressure test by each type of experimental basic bodices, the 3rd experimental basic bodice was chosen to be a basic bodice type in this research since it showed a high degree in fitness and function, but a low in the clothing pressure test. As a comparison of one item from conventional jacket and sleeve pattern with each somatotype, the type 2(the standard somatotype) indicated a great fitness in both basic bodice type and conventional jacket pattern, whereas the type 1 and the type 3 showed higher fitness and moving function in the basic bodice type. In the making of men's jacket, many corrections were made in the front interscye breadth, back interscye breadth, front and back length, and shoulder line as adapting each body type. Thus, the ease-amount of chest circumference at scye for clothes should be established differently according to the size of chest circumference at scye.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.16 no.2
• /
• pp.15-29
• /
• 2014

Setting the ease amount takes the important part to the fit that consumers satisfies. Therefore, it is required to create a pattern for off-the-rack jackets that considers the proper amount of ease. However, few studies have been done previously regarding the ease amount of jacket pattern for the women in their 20s whose demand for jacket is high and who are sensitive to the fit. Therefore, this study selected top five brands in terms of sales and preference among the national female apparel brands. It obtained a tailored jacket pattern for basic size (55 size) and made the jacket. Then, an expert panel group put the pattern on Hani body, a torso dummy for education made by the anthropometric data of Size Korea for females in their 20s and conducted an evaluation on the ease amount and analyzed the results. As a result, the ease amount of the Pattern A was evaluated as proper and that of the Pattern B was found to be lease proper. From the fact, we can see that each of the top 5 off-the-rack brands has different ease amount, though they are of the same basic size (55 size).

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.24 no.2
• /
• pp.241-248
• /
• 2022

This study aims to provide basic data to suggest guidelines for re-education and work improvement of modelists based on the analysis of the current status of modelist work and education. A survey was conducted from January 4 to May 15, 2020, targeting 44 people working in pattern, pattern CAD, and grading in domestic apparel companies. Descriptive statistical analysis and frequency analysis using SPSS 25 were employed to analyze the status of work type, work difficulties, and re-education. For pattern production, the rate of using pattern CAD for business was high. It was found that companies mainly use YUKA CAD (63.8%), and branded companies use pattern CAD (100%). It was found that 3D CAD is mostly employed by vendors (88.9%), and CLO (90%) is mainly used. Regarding difficulties in pattern making, it was found that they experienced difficulties with stretchable materials owing to the amount of shrinkage and sagging of the fabric. The work problem was the lack of requisite working hours owing to the volume of work. Regarding future re-education, 63.6% of the total respondents indicated that they required a course related to pattern correction and material. Moreover, it was found that re-education was necessary to upgrade technology and acquire new knowledge, however, information on re-education was insufficient.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.36 no.3
• /
• pp.311-323
• /
• 2012

This study establishes the initial data to develop a well-fitted underwear pattern by categorizing and analyzing torso types based on body measurements of women in their 50s and 60s. The results are as follows: First, the statistical assessment on the body measurements showed meaningful differences among age groups in twenty seven items (except for bust breadth, hip width armscye depth, hip depth, neck base circumference, armscye circumference, chest circumference, hip circumference, bishoulder length, shoulder length, front interscye, back interscye, weight and inclined angle of left shoulder). Women in their early 50s and late 60s (respectively) showed the highest values in height and depth. Second, there are five body factors according to the results of the factor analysis: Factor 1 (circumference, width, and depth of upper body measurements) - the degree of body depth and obesity, Factor 2 (height and vertical length) - The vertical torso length, Factor 3 - the size of shoulder, Factor 4 - the vertical upper body length, and Factor 5 - the size of shoulder angle. Third, the results of the cluster analysis showed that there are four distinctive body types. The largest number of the study subjects was related to Type 3 (30.69%), followed by Type 2 (26.78%), Type 1 (25.84%), and Type 4 (16.69%), respectively. For distribution of age groups by body type, Type 3 was the most common among the 60s group while Type 2 appeared most frequently among the 50s.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.34 no.3
• /
• pp.480-491
• /
• 2010

This study investigates the body satisfaction and fitness apparel depending on age and silhouette. The subjects were 254 females 20~50 years of age living in Chungju South Korea. There are various body types in women over the age of 35, the lower part of the body-development type, regular type, the upper part of the body-development type, and the rectangular body type. In addition, there is a lower satisfaction level in circumferences related with apparel fit, especially in the sleeve length, armhole, and crotch length. Therefore, a size system is needed that considers various body types in ready-to-wear clothing for middle-aged women. Design, color, and pattern are most important in clothing purchases by unmarried women, but the ease of laundry management and price discounts are the most significant for clothing purchases by married women. The upper part of the body-development type is unsatisfactory in the size-fit of sleeve length and shoulder width, but the lower part of the body-development type is unsatisfactory in the circumference of the waist, hip, abdominal, girth of skirt, and crotch length. The rectangular body type and the lower part of the body-development type are unsatisfactory in movement comfort, especially in hip girth and crotch length. The upper part of the body-development type is unsatisfactory in the movement comfort of the chest and elbow girth.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.45 no.6
• /
• pp.986-1003
• /
• 2021

This study was conducted to develop a basic pants pattern reflecting the average body shape of Chinese women in their 20s by using a virtual fitting method. A formula for the research pattern was derived by applying the measured value based on the drafting method of existing patterns. The final pattern was presented through two actual fitting processes. The suitability of the final pattern was then verified through a functional evaluation and an appearance evaluation based on an actual fitting and a virtual fitting. As a result of the evaluations, the final pattern reflected the body shape of Chinese women in their 20s and was evaluated as a higher quality pattern compared to existing patterns. The final pattern was based on the omphalion waist circumference. Ease amounts were set to be the omphalion waist circumference + 1.0 cm, hip circumference + 2.0 cm, and the pants length was set to 94 cm.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.18 no.2
• /
• pp.101-113
• /
• 2016

This study was conducted in order to analyze draping and flat pattern according to jacket design, and provide basic materials for developing a jacket pattern that can enhance fitness, functionality, and aesthetic expression of clothes by reflecting esthetic expression of draping and efficiency of flat pattern at the same time. For the experimental jacket designs of a one-piece sleeve jacket and a two-piece sleeve jacket were selected among the entries of the designer Rubina for 2014 F/W Seoul Fashion Week. Designer brand Rubina usually produced clothes using draping and the designer brand company provided the experimental patterns for the study. We also had flat patterns of the same design and size specifications designed by a flat patternmaker who has 30 year-experience in flat pattern like Rubina. The test apparel jacket was made of 20's cotton yarns. Three models wore the jackets and evaluation on appearance fitness was conducted by 7 members in an expert panel group from August 10, 2015 to September 10, 2015. As a result of appearance fitness analysis on one-piece sleeve jacket, there were significant difference in 4 items among 17 items in terms of overall appearance. The appearance of jackets by draping had higher score than those using flat pattern. As for two-piece sleeve jacket, there were significant differences in 7 items among 17 items related to overall appearance. As for the items related to sleeve, 5 items out of 13 showed significant differences. Except for one item, appearance of jackets using draping had higher score than flat pattern. As for motion fitness, draping was evaluated to be more comfortable. Applying the items with high scores in appearance and motion fitness in draping to flat pattern, The study suggests a new jacket pattern development that would increase the satisfaction of consumers for future research.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.11 no.2
• /
• pp.143-151
• /
• 2009

Ukiyo-e is the representative genre-painting of Japan, dominant during the 17th century Edo-Period (1503-1867). Ukiyo-e is mainly focused on expressing the lives of geishas, sumo wrestlers, and kabuki characters, who were the center of the Japanese amusement culture, and gained popular acceptance in Europe when it was first introduced in the late 19th century in the form of Japonism, having significant influence and impact on the impressionist artists of the time and on the design of western cloths. In this papers, we will be primarily conducting a historical study on the development of the Ukiyo-e, a representative genre-painting of Japan, and conduct a in-depth analysis of pattern expressed in the Kosode of women, represented through various different works of art. In order to conduct a thorough analysis of pattern expressed in Ukiyo-e, we collected over 255 pieces of materials from existing foreign paintings as well as museums in the National Museum of Tokyo, Edo Museum, and the Harajuku Museum of Ukiyo-e. This papers seeks to analyze and classify patterns expressed in the works of Ukiyo-e and research the characteristics express in the pattern to contribute to the development of fabrics in the modern fashion design industry.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.39 no.3
• /
• pp.457-467
• /
• 2015

The demand for coverall-type protective clothing are increasing in many industrial fields; however, it is impossible to evaluate the wearers' apparel fit because there is no commercialized pattern in the market. This study produces a manual for the process of acquiring patterns by separating PPE products into pieces to provide information on acquiring patterns. The analysis was on coverall-type non woven protective clothing in the domestic market, and 4 panels examined the validity, reliability, and efficiency of various possible methods on each step of process. Five steps were conducted to acquire patterns removing wrinkles, marking seams lines, separating seams, and pattern completing. The process of converting these into pattern files was designed through three procedures of digitizing, editing, and exporting and detailed stages. Fitting tests were undertaken, real patterns by actual modeling and pattern files by virtual modeling; all showed similar forms with outfits wearing ready-made protective coveralls. This study sought the most efficient and objective method of virtual modeling and proposed it as a manual. It is expected for the pattern reverse-designing manual through products analysis presented in this study that would be a helpful addition of information to the pattern tracing of pattern-less clothing products.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.41 no.2
• /
• pp.242-253
• /
• 2017

We selected 81 universities (39.1%) for research and close analysis to analyze the current availability of courses in the field of clothing construction at four-year domestic universities. The results of the analysis shows that curriculum is currently composed of theoretical and practical courses that continue to be developed in diverse areas of study. Despite having classes with underlying similarities and differences, research shows that the course curriculum is constructed systematically with both theory and practice at each stage. Distribution of curriculum in the field of clothing construction were organized and analyzed by similar courses in 4 larger groupings and 9 sub-groups. Analysis of the large groupings showed that sewing courses (19.8%), pattern development courses (41.0%), advanced sewing courses (14.1%), and miscellaneous courses (26.1%) were established. Analysis of the sub-groups showed that basic theory and sewing courses (3.6%), sewing courses (16.1%), flat pattern courses (17.9%), draping pattern courses (14.6%), pattern CAD courses (7.3%), tailoring and advanced sewing courses (8.5%), scientific sewing and apparel production processing courses (1.4%), special sewing courses (3.9%), and miscellaneous and new subject courses (26.1%) were established. Overall analysis of the organization distribution was conducted in the order of pattern development (39.9%), miscellaneous & new subject (26.1%), basic theory and sewing (19.8%), and advanced sewing (14.0%). Field analysis from various angles indicates that pattern development, new subject courses, and miscellaneous courses had a relatively higher proportion than other major courses. From this it can be inferred that this trend is an effort to develop individuals to adapt to a rapidly changing fashion industry and environment. The composition of courses also shows great advancement towards diversification and course development. However, there is still insufficient exchange between industrial and education sites. As active exchange continue to be demanded, classification standards for new subject courses and titles of such studies have become unclear and have reached limitations.