• 대한화장품학회:학술대회논문집
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• 대한화장품학회 1999년도 IFSCC . ASCS 학술대회 발표 논문
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• pp.57-64
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• 1999

Pericarpium castaneae extracts have variously potent activities, such as anti-oxidative activity and free radical scavenging activity. in vivo and in vivo studies both indicate that pericarpium castaneae extracts acts as a flee radical scavenger ($IC_{50}$/: 7.6$\mu\textrm{g}$/ml) stronger than gallic acid($IC_{50}$/: 12.5$\mu\textrm{g}$/ml) and ellagic acid($IC_{50}$/: 15$\mu\textrm{g}$/ml) which could prevent cutaneous UV damages and skin aging. The extracts showed a good effect as a anti-oxidant ($IC_{50}$/: 50$\mu\textrm{g}$/ml). It was shown that the appearance of wrinkle in human skin was reduced by topical application of pericarpium castaneae extracts. And the treatment of human skin with the extracts increased the elasticity and moisture of the skin. We investigated the effect of tile pericarpium castaneae extracts on production of extracellular matrix using cultured A431 fibroblast cells. The results indicated that the extracts had no detectable effect on collagen synthesis, But synthesis of cell adhesion protein was increased by the extracts. The results suggest that increase of cell adhesion protein synthesis by pericarpium castaneae extracts has closely related to reduction of wrinkle in skin.

• 대한화장품학회:학술대회논문집
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• 대한화장품학회 2003년도 IFSCC Conference Proceeding Book II
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• pp.464-478
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• 2003

Free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) caused by UV exposure or other environmental facts play critical roles in cellular damage and aging. The extract of tinged autumnal leaves of maple tree(Acer palmatum) has proven to be a powerful antioxidant. The Acer palmatum extract is very effective on the stabilization of biological membranes( containing unsaturated fatty acid). We studied photoprotective effect of the extract against UVB-induced cytotoxicity in human keratinocytes. The extract improved cell viability comparing to control after UVB irradiation. In the determination test of pro inflammatory cytokines the extract decreased expression of interleukin 1 a and 6, which play an important role in inflammation and skin erythema caused by UV. We also studied property of varying cosmetic formulations on the percutaneous absorption of the extract. After 24 hour in vitro penetration study, the content of the extract was more highly detected in skin residue part. This result showed the extract had relatively high compatibility of skin in our emulsion system. On human skin, after appling the product containing the extract we obtained a good result of antiwrinkle effect by skin visiometer. In conclusion, the Acer palmatum extract is a photoprotective and very effective in stressed and aged skin care. And we can predict the extract mainly affects on the skin cell and tissue in our emulsion system.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제29권2호
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• pp.131-147
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• 2003

In the 21st century, the development of cosmetics is led to pursue the high functionality of cosmetics with excellent effectiveness and safety. As Cosmetic Act took effect in 2000, functional cosmetics is provided in the law. As a result, the research and development of functional cosmetics has continually increased, and the number of patent applications in functional cosmetics has also rapidly increased as a plan for preoccupying in the functional cosmetics age. Now, the cosmetic industry has a great interest in developing anti-wrinkle cosmetics among functional cosmetics, because women's desire for having young resilient skin has increased since Korea entered an aging society thanks to the advanced medical technology. The patent application trends of anti-wrinkle cosmetics at home since 2000 particularly show the rapid increase in the applications in natural plant extracts. It may be because Korean consumers preference of vegetable cosmetics has resulted in the development of raw materials based on the traditional medicine. As for the existing preparation such as Retinoid or Ascorbic acid, the patent application itself will be an essential technical element in the future because patent applications are filed in the field of a preparation of cosmetics for stabilizing ingredients, reducing skin irritability or promoting absorbance, and in the field of cosmetic formulation technology. As there are many studies on the causes of skin wrinkles, it is expected that new raw materials of cosmetics can be developed due to new mechanisms, and that the number of patent applications in new technologies will increase due to a change in the thought of cosmetics accompanied by the integration of cosmetics with biotechnology using Genetic Engineering, including the practical application of the medicine previously used far treating skin diseases to an anti-wrinkle agent and the mass production of active ingredients of cosmetics.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제34권4호
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• pp.303-309
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• 2008

건강한 피부 기능의 악화 원인으로는 콜라겐 섬유 감소, 탄력섬유 변성, 활성산소종의 과다 생성 등이 있다. 이로 인하여 피부 탄력 저하나 주름이 생성된다. 피부 탄력 저하 및 주름 생성과 같은 피부 노화를 개선하기 위해 대표적으로 비타민 A, C 및 그 유도체들이 화장품에 적용되고 있지만 화학적 불안정성의 문제점이 있어 새로운 유도체들의 합성 개발에 노력을 기울이고 있다. 본 연구에서는 피부개선을 위한 화장품 원료로 최근 비타민 C로부터 새롭게 합성된 3-O-cetyl-L-ascorbic acid (VCCE)의 주름 개선과 관련된 효능 효과를 평가하였다. VCCE의 in vitro 실험 결과 procollagen type I의 합성을 0.002%에서 최대 149% 증가시켰다. 또한 인체적용시험에서 일차적으로 폐쇄 첩포 실험 결과 자극이 유발되지 않았으며, 모사판 분석 및 PRIMOS system을 이용한 주름측정결과에서도 주름개선효과를 확인하였다. 결과적으로, VCCE는 주름 개선을 위한 화장품 성분으로서 높은 응용 가치를 제시한다.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제32권2호
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• pp.69-74
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• 2006

권백은 동양에서 암환자 치료를 위한 전통 약용식물로 알려져 있다. 본 연구에서는 포제기술을 이용한 권백을 항노화 화장품 소재로 적용하고자 다양한 생물학적활성을 평가하였다. 열과 모래를 이용한 포제 권백은 기존 권백을 다른 목적으로 이용하고자 비교하였다. 포제 권백은 페놀함량이 증가하였고 DPPH 라디칼 소거활성도 증가하였다. 세포내 활성산소 소거평가를 위해 사람 섬유아세포를 배양하여 UVB($20 mJ/cm^2$)에 의해 증가된 세포내 활성산소가 포제 권백을 처리함으로써 활성 산소 소거효과가 증가하였다. 사람 섬유아세포에서 UVA에 의해 발현되는 MMP-1효소는 포제 권백에 의해 농도 의존적으로 감소하였다. 결론적으로 포제 권백은 페놀함량의 증가와 항산화 효과가 증가하였고, 자외선에 의한 세포손상을 보호하여 항노화 화장품의 새로운 소재로 이용될 것으로 사료된다.

• 대한화장품학회:학술대회논문집
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• 대한화장품학회 2003년도 IFSCC Conference Proceeding Book II
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• pp.184-191
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• 2003

New pyranone derivative, 2-((3E)-4(2H, 3H, -benzo[3, 4-d] 1, 3-dioxolan-5-yl)-2-oxo-but-3-enyloxy)-5-hydroxy-4H-pyran-4-one (Seletinoid $G^{TM}$), was designed as a novel retinoid on the assumption that the pyranone ring may mimic the carboxylic acid moiety in retinoid structure. The enolic hydroxy of pyranone at five position was easily deprotonated to form an enolate. The role of enolate was similar to that of carboxylic acid. To evaluate the value of Seletinoid G as an anti-aging ingredient, various tests were performed for example inhibitory effect for MMP-l expression, anti-oxidative activity, procollagen synthesis in hairless mouse and primary skin irritation. The result of this study suggested that our new synthetic retinoid could be used as a safe material for anti-aging cosmetics.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제28권1호
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• pp.71-79
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• 2002

In the aged skin especially in the face and eyelid, deep and slight wrinkles are one of the remarkable phenomena of aging and the cause of wrinkle is various. Among the cause of wrinkles an oxidative stress plays an important roles in wrinkle formation process. It caused the lipid peroxidation of cell membrane, the increase of the MMPs(MatrixMetalloProteinase) gene expression and cellular DNA damage. These ROS induced materials may cause the degradation of collagen matrix system in the dermis and cause the formation of skin wrinkle. So, it is very important for protecting skin wrinkle formation to regulate ROS activity. In this study, we developed one active ingredient having multi functional activities such as activation of collagen synthesis, inhibition of MMPs activity, lipid peroxidation and free radical scavenging activity and inhibition of free radical induced DNA damage in vitro. Pericarpium castaneae extracts showed collagen synthesis increase in Normal Human Fibroblast and the inhibition of elastase activity (IC$\_$50/ of Elastase: 43.9$\mu\textrm{g}$/㎖). It showed also anti-oxidative activity (IC$\_$50/ : 48$\mu\textrm{g}$/㎖) and free radical scavenging activity(IC$\_$50/: 7.6$\mu\textrm{g}$/㎖). Conclusively, Pericarpium castaneae extracts may be used as an ingredient for new anti-wrinkle cosmetics.

• 한국의사학회지
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• 제31권2호
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• pp.63-72
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• 2018

As Korea's representative medical text, "Donguibogam" reveals Korean Medicine's unique perspective on the human body. The text also contains abundant resources related to skin, leading to diverse researches on the subject today. In this paper, authors tried to elicit values of "Donguibogam" in the general cosmetics field, through literature review. First, prescriptions related to main functions of modern cosmetics (anti-aging, whitening, and moisturizing) were classified. In relation to anti-aging, concepts such as 返老 (reversing aging), 還童 (to become young again), 皺 (wrinkle), and 皮急 (tense skin) were extracted and 69 examples of treatments were introduced. For whitening care, 41 treatments were mentioned on hyper-pigmentation and general complexion. Concepts related to moisturizing included expressions such as 潤肌膚 (hydration of skin) and 光澤 (glow), induced by 48 treatment prescriptions. Second, cosmetics related prescriptions were classified according to the application methods of modern cosmetics. 78 prescriptions of cleansing category included washing-off local area with herbal liquid, bathing, washing-off after steaming, and soaking the body in the herbal liquid. Total of 308 topical application prescriptions covered the conditions of various skin inflammations, scalp illnesses, and etc. In conclusion, this research examines the value of "Donguibogam" as a useful of skincare. Further studies are expected to extend our understanding of the field.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제24권3호
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• pp.17-23
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• 1998

Inner nutshell of Castanea mollisima BL (chestnut) has been used as an anti-aging and anti-wrinkle agent from the ancient time in east Asia. In order to develop new anti-aging and anti-wrinkle, ethanolic extract of inner nutshell of Castanea mollisima BL (Cor-285) was prepared and various biological activities were evaluated. Cor-285 showed potent antioxidant activity, Especially, Cor-285 possessed potent free radical scavenging activity in vitro (IC50:7.6 g/ml) compared to gallic acid (IC50:12.5 g/ml), Cor-285 showed the preventive effect against UV-induced cytotoxicity of fibroblast at concentration of 25-250 g/ml. When Cor-285 was evaluated for its anti-allergic activity, it effectively inhibited histamine release from mast cells induced by compound 48/80 (86% inhibition at 10 mg/ml). The inhibitory activity was stronger than that of glycyrrhiznate. Cor-285 also showed in vivo inhibition against delayed hypersensitivity as well as croton-oil induced ear edema in mice when topically applied These results strongly suggest that Cor-285 may reduce immunoregulatory 1 inflammatory skin trouble. From the attempts to isolate the constituents, citropten (simple coumarin) and ellagic acid, a well known radical scavenger, were isolated. In a clinical trial of twenty healthy volunteers with aged skin,6 weeks application of Cor-285 (3% cream) decreased wrinkle about 26% and increased moisturizing 20% on the skin. All of these results indicate that Cor-285 may be an effective anti-aging and anti-wrinkle agent.

• 한국약용작물학회지
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• 제13권6호
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• pp.213-216
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• 2005

본 연구에서는 비교적 가격이 저렴하고 부작용이 없으면서 효능이 우수한 피부 노화 억제 제품을 개발하고자 먼저 다양한 종류의 약용식물을 대상으로 각종 유기용매 추출물을 제조한 후 이들의 elastase 저해 활성을 측정하여 우수 식물을 선발하고 이들로 부터 elastase 저해제 추출 최적조건을 검토하였다. 64종의 약용식물에 대한 다양한 추출물 가운데 복분자 메탄올 추출물의 elastase 저해 활성이 85%로 가장 높았고 이 저해물질은 메탄올로 $50^{\circ}C$에서 12시간 진탕 시켰을 때 가장 많이 추출 되었다.