• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.6
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• pp.5-24
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• 2001

This paper is intended to explore femininity the ideal beauty of body and the features in fashion pursued in the Fashion system and the Anti-Fashion Movement in the Victorian period, on which the modern fashion is based. For the informative facts needed in this paper, books on history, fashion history, feminism, art history of aestheticism and the ideal beauty of body are referred to. On the part Ⅱ of this paper, the femininity and the ideal beauty of body implied in the Aesthetic Movement and Rational Dress Movement as the anti-fashion movement in the Victorian period will be reviewed. Following are the conclusion : First, the works in Aesthetic Movement mainly include the image of sensual female. The essence of femininity is categorized by cultural value, poetic spirit. appetite for sex and self-expression. The ideal beauty of body pursued in this movement is the beauty of immatured body, which means rejection of maternity as well as appetite for sex in the form of metaphor of the power and enthusiasm of female. The features of Aesthetic Movement emphasize the image of sensual and characteristic woman. These features are expressed in the natural waist line and the vertical H silhouette of high waist, natural exposure of body by means of drapery, simplicity and decency by design without fixed forms and seemingly faded colors. Second, Rational Dress Movement attempted to evaluate the femininity in a different way and ultimately pursued masculinity. Therefore, morality, liberty, intelligence, spirituality, self-control, willingness, which had been believed to exclusively belong to male, are added to the categories of femininity. The ideal beauty of body is expressed in the form of Venus Coelestic which is refined and strong. This symbolizes woman's freeing from the fate of reproduction and subordinate relationship with male, morality, decision of one's own and willingness. The features of Rational Dress Movement represent the image of strong-willed and moral woman in its internal meaning. The features of its fashions represent the concealment of the body, emphasis on activeness in pants without decoration and simplicity in its external form. All these features resulted from the pursuit of masculinity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.2 s.111
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• pp.190-201
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• 2007

The purpose of this study Is to reinterpret sexuality represented in modern fashion with the conception of plural sexuality from post-structuralism in socio-semiotic approach. It consists of two parts.: The first part provides the theoretical background and the methodological framework of this study. The second part ultimately accomplishes this study by empirical research, which is to infer plural sexuality articulated with fashion images in men's and women's popular fashion magazines in Korea since 2000 and sexual ideology signified in modern fashion. In this part the theoretical background was focused on the conception of sexuality on the basis of Foucault's idea, and then the framework for this study was made up from socio-semiotic perspective. The conception of sexuality in Foucauldian post-structural idea maintains the view of plural sexuality, which floats by power relationship between dominant and oppositional discourses in a specific historical context. Socio-semiotics suggests a contextual methodology to analyze the phenomena of material culture by articulating the range of material objects with that of ideology. The socio-semiotic model applied to sexuality represented in fashion is the framework of classifying into the several versions of fashion images from fashion as a material object and then inferring sexual ideology codified in them. In addition, three stages of producer/object/user in socio-semiotics were revised into 'dominant sexuality' with mainstream fashion out of dominant discourses,'oppositional sexuality' to create anti-fashion from oppositional discourses of subculture, and 'alternative sexuality' to be appropriated to dominant discourses by the mix of mainstream fashion and anti-fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.47
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• pp.143-160
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• 1999

The purpose of this dissertation is to interpret fashion through a socio-cultural phenomenon called kitsch by understanding its aesthetic characteristics and clarifying its significance in the modern consumer society and analyzing the examples of kitsch appearing in modern fashion. The following are the arguments and conclusion of this dissertation. First kitsch has negative meanings such as aesthetic inadequacy or bad tastes implying vulgar popular tastes of faked sensations just imitating elite culture and using things indiscriminately for inferior reproduction or at best the philosophical and aesthetic category that expresses the mass of people's attitudes toward life in accepting the consumer culture of the industrial society. It started from the art of romanticism accompanied by th commercializing of art with the bourgeois society background formed in the mid-19th century. Though kitsch started to prevail following the socio-cultural changes caused by the Industrial Revolution in the 19th century it is only in the late 20th century that kitsch has come tc our everyday life and has become an object of aesthetic arguments. Second formative characteristics of kitsch appearin in fashion have a cumulative inadequate romantic pleasure-seeking satirizing and multicomplex nature. Third the socio-cultural meanings of kitsch appearing in fashion are as follows: The extension of commercialism which gratifies the pleasure-seeking mass consumers the enlargement of the aesthetic category by inclining to everyday commonplace aesthetic sense the expression of one's identity through the gratification of desire and the new aesthetics of resistance and deviance by an anti-traditional and anti-elite tendency towards the traditional society and aesthetic values.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.87-101
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• 2016

In this study, a variety of influence in the field of design and analysis about the value of a Grunge Design and the creative design inspirations in the field of hair design to help the development of the quality of research. The research methods use the Internet publications such as local and foreign information, analysis and related research and book form, such as the network search, library goes for consideration by a literature search. The contents of this study used review of the case and by Grunge design, expressive characteristics by color, texture and form of Grunge hair design, from 2014 to 2016 trend collections in the last three years through the analysis of design by date of the case. The result of this study is, Grunge design appearing in the areas of hair design, that are grunge anti fashion like the beauty of the disorder, the disharmony, the incomplete, the kitsch, the poverty. Although Grunge means dirt, filth, rubbish as a slang but it is valuable which was raised from the anti fashion to high fashion and alternative of main stream fashion and the hair design in modern fashion also brought. In this study, we can understand the grunge hair design in modern fashion was started from lower place as alternative and forecast the potentialities, the formativeness of the grunge design and value of the beauty and grunge anti fashion the identity and the spirit appearing steadily a modern fashion influence are reflected in our next fashion and design characteristics.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.17-25
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to help understanding of abstract patterns and to play a guideline's role in the development of designs and the prediction of trends for present and future fashion designers and textile designers. The summary of this study's results is like followings. Formative characteristics of abstract pattern in 2000's fashion are Impromptu, Anti-mechanism, Superimposing, Disorder. First, Impromptu is rebounce against uniformity, mechanism, man-created beauty Second, Anti-mechanism represents unfinishing, unbalance, inaccuracy and relates with each traditional of nation or ethnic group. Third, Presupposing transparency Superimposing offsets each patterns. So Their images are ambiguity, ununiformity, unequality, incompletion, uncertainty and so on. Fourth, Disorder breaks and ignores physical balance, rule, order and so on. These images represent uncertainty, freedom, naturality. From this result, I can interpret that these images are representing of humanism reacting about uniformity, mechanism, man-created beauty, completeness of modernism since the Industrial Revolution.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.84-103
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• 1998

The purpose of this study si focused on Futurism style and contemporary fashion in the 20th century, by researching the Giacomo Balla, Fortunato Depero, Tullio Crali, Erenesto Thayate characteristics fashion design. The results of this study are following as : The general traits of Futurism style are classified with aesthetics, formative characteristics. First, aesthetic characteristics are based on H. Bergson's life-phylosophy and F. Nietzche's art theory. Second, formative characteristics is Dynamism. Futurism Dynamism are classified with psychological Dynamism and physical Dynamism. Futurism trends in the costume : first, dynamism in fashion design, second, asymmetrical balance, third, formativeness, forth, technology, fifth, anti-traditionalism. Dynamism are expressed textile, pattern and costuem shape in contemporary dress. Asymmetrical balance are expressed costume silhouette shape and framework through the geometrical asymmetrical balance. Formativeness are agree with Paco Rabanne's fashion design expressed body and movement and phychological world of human through the secondly fabric. Technology are expressed new mechanical dynamism in used technology art and new fashion material by metal. The last, anti-traditionalism is recognized new value and idea in fashion.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.88-99
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• 1998

Image of Modern Art & Fashion are created on the whole in daily life. Image itself is not simple. There is no more distinction between content & form through mutual crossing for intellectual thinking. Specially, image of reproduction circumstance too many mixtual and compromise (collage) are continued to occur. They could pursuit to change their image through the more increase of impulse, exception and popular experience. In this thesis, I studied about image of Modern fashion & Art. In the modern art, visual image showed as anti-beauty and combination of cultural system. It has shown in the theory of Fred Davis and through fashion brand advertising image as follows; Youth vs maturity (ageless image), male s female and androgynous vs unisexuality (genderless image), colligation vs monopoly (street mode image). As a results, the modern trend image are showing the value of the ambivalence. It can be said that he anti-beauty which are occasionally showed in ambivalence has shown a tendency toward another tradition (feminity) through giving an impulse and paradox.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.77-87
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• 2008

Modern fashion industry creates complex and multiple fashion by amalgamating and mixing all elements that emerged in fashion without limiting them to a specific genre. The results of study are as follows: First, with regard to the conceptual differences among poor look, anti-fashion, and resistance fashion and the background. second, As aesthetic categories of poor beauty, its image with the feeling of poorness, beggar-likeness, worthlessness, poorness, and uncleanness is divided into the beauty of moderation, deconstruction, unfinished beauty, natural beauty, and ostentatious poor beauty based on the formative characteristics and poor look. Third, Oriental and Western poor images are comparatively analyzed. The poor beauty found in Oriental fashion, which is based on Zen aesthetics, seeks loneliness, poorness, and simplicity as an empty origin and features internal meaning that expresses the purity of poor beauty itself and external form that is visualized through no decoration, no color, and asymmetry in material and composition. The poor beauty in the West features non-form of no shape, asymmetry and disharmony and the characteristic in its contents is "distortion", and the characteristic in its expression features external form of "incorrectness" and internal meaning implying modem humans' frustration, resistance to materialism, and skepticism about mechanicalism.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.827-832
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to scientifically proof possibility of development of natural dye which has antimicrobial activity with Chelidonium majus var. asiaticum. For that silk fabrics dyed with Chelidonium majus var. asiaticum extracts were tested for anti-microbial activity. Bacterials used for test of anti-microbial activity were Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538, Klebsiella pneumoniae ATCC 4352 and Trichophyton mentagrophytes IFO 5466. The results of experiment were as follows ; 1. The more the number of times of dyeing increase the more value of K/S increased. 2. Reduction of bacterium against Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538 of silk fabrics dyed with Chelidonium majus var. asiaticum extracts was 99.9% without reference to the number of times of dyeing. 3. Reduction of bacterium against Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538 of silk fabrics dyed with Chelidonium majus var. asiaticum extracts was 99.9% after irradiation of 20 hour without reference to the number of times of dyeing. 4. Reduction of bacterium against Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538 of silk fabrics dyed with Chelidonium majus var. asiaticum extracts was over 94.8% after dry cleaning. As above silk fabrics dyed with Chelidonium majus var. asiaticum extracts were acquired a high anti-microbial activity against Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.5
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• pp.49-64
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• 2001

Fur is conceived as a material signifier, not only with its commodity value as luxury goods but also as its symbolic value as objects invested by one's libidinal desire. In this study, complex meanings of fur as multi-layered signs of political and sexual power focusing on fetishism shall be explored, especially on the spectacle fetishism acted by mass media during the anti-fur movement in the 1980s. In conjuction herewith, a highlight shall also be made to the symbolic value in fashion design since 1990s. In this study, first, as a theoretical investigation, fetishism, that has been traditionally considered only as sexual fetishism in fashion discourse will be explored in socio-economic level. Second, in historical context, how the meanings and values of fur have become realized in various cultural spaces, such as literature, art, film and finally, fashion will be viewed. In fashion, fur is a product of desire and power influenced by commodity fetishism as well as sexual fetishism. During the anti-fur movement, mass media has developed the concept of spectacle fetishism. Fur is a sign of animal-victim, and fur-clad women is viewed with images full of imperialsm, sexism and racism, thus act as derisive spectacles of consumerism. Since 1990s as a reflection on anti-fur movement, fetishistic characteristics, which challenge traditional operation method, are expressed by disguise, parody, and returning to the nature. First, fur as disguise is intended to hide sexually perverse, decadent characteristics and expensiveness of fur by texturing or patterning techniques. Second, fur as parody uses fake fur or dyed fur in order to satirize erotically and ethnographically fetishized meanings of fur. Third, aboriginal design of fur is adapted to use symbolic values outside the West, which can potentially mobilize antagonistic oppositions out of their fetishistic regimes. In conclusion, fur as sign of female sexuality and its libidinal profits of exchange, has significant symbolic values expressed in fashion.