• Title/Summary/Keyword: anthropology of fashion

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Rethinking Fashion: Fashion, Art and the Anthropology of Art -A Case of the Vivienne Westwood Exhibition at the V&A-

  • Lee, Jung-Taek
    • International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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    • v.4
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    • pp.131-144
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    • 2004
  • “The ultimate aim of the anthropology of art [fashion] must be the dissolution of art [fashion].” Alfred Gell, Art and Agency (1998) This study aims to rethink fashion by examining issues that have emerged out of recent writings in the anthropology of art. Since their inaugural coinciding, sound discussions have emerged between the anthropology of art and the art world, addressing such subjects as: ‘artworks and artefacts’, ‘Western and non- Western discourse’, and ‘art and agency’ (Gell 1992; 1993; 1996; 1998). This study is comprised of a series of discussions, the subjects of which follow: the relationship between fashion and art; art and the anthropology of art; and in parallel with this, examining the possibility for an anthropology of fashion. This study employs a qualitative approach based on the discussion of relevant literatures dealing with fashion, art and art theory for its methodology, followed by a brief examination of a case of the Vivienne Westwood exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum in terms of an empirical account.

Rethinking Fashion or the Anthropology of Fashion through the Anthropology of Aft: A Case of the Vivienne Westwood Exhibition at the V&A

  • Lee, Jeong-Taek
    • Proceedings of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association Conference
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    • 2004.06a
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    • pp.13-20
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    • 2004
  • This study aims to rethink fashion or, namely, the anthropology of fashion through examining issues generated by the relationship between art and the anthropology of art. Since their crossing paths, sound discussions have emerged between the anthropology of art and the art world, such as subjects about 'artworks and artefacts', 'Western and non-Western discourse' and 'art and agency'(Gell 1992; 1993; 1996; 1998).(omitted)

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A Study on the Distribution Structure of Italian Fashion Product

  • Kim, Mun-Young;Bonin, Laura Maria;Cho, Woo-Hyun
    • International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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    • v.7 no.1
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    • pp.1-10
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    • 2007
  • The Italian fashion industry has achieved a remarkable success in the global market with the distinctive features of its industry structure and product quality, and such a system has been subject to many researches. Especially, the retail structure centered on small speciality retail stores rather than the industry structure of medium and small sized companies and department stores is thought to be the most noticeable distinctive feature that differentiates the Italian fashion industry from other countries. This system is thought to be a driving force behind the continuous development and innovation closely associated with the market. In result, As medium and small size companies are the center of the Italian fashion industry, advantages of small companies based on region, that is, flexibility and innovation of medium and small size companies, close cooperation between companies are utilized and it has been progressing closely with the Italian traditional culture and being modernized based on traditional technological skills.

Art Strategies of Luxury Fashion Brand (럭셔리 패션브랜드의 예술 전략)

  • Ye, Minhee;Yim, Eunhyuk
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.38 no.2
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    • pp.191-200
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    • 2014
  • This study represents "an artialization of fashion" that may be regarded similar to art with a focus on luxury fashion brands. In the $20^{th}$ century, fashion began to share a similar language with art and became a central part in popularizing art. Fashion and art were drawn to each other in mutual fascination. Fashion studies arouse from disciplines like anthropology, sociology and art history as well as from aesthetic experiences and commercial characteristics. Fashion is very complicated phenomenon; therefore, a study on the artialization of luxury fashion brands needs to be approached for aesthetic and commercial aspects simultaneously. This study combines a literary survey with a case analysis of the relation of fashion and art as well as inquires on the artialization of luxury fashion brands based on discourses. The discourses are: first, fashion is an art, second, fashion and art differ in relation to the intention, third, fashion and art have mutual-borrowing. In view of the results achieved in this study, luxury fashion brands can achieve increased effectiveness through art. This study reveals the effects that luxury brands achieve through art versus a discussion on if fashion is art or not and if the relationship is moral or not.

A Study on Drag Queen's Costume (Drag Queen 복식(服飾)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究))

  • Kan, Ho-Sup
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.4 no.2
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    • pp.69-83
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    • 2000
  • The purpose of this study is considering about drag queen's costume in the point of view of anthropology and psychoanalysis. The contents are the meaning of drag queen by theoretical research and the characteristics of drag queen's costume. The results of characteristics of drag queen's costume are summerized as following. 1. Sexual originality is related with homosexuality. Costume express character of gay not as a transsexual or cross-dresser. 2. Imitation is related with identification of drag queen and famous star like actress, pop singer and historical heroine. 3. Amusement is related with drag queen's life style. There are two kinds of character in amusement. One is humour. Another is an exaggeration. 4. Commercialism is related with mass-media culture. Drag queen's costume have an influence with movie, advertisement and modern fashion.

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A Study on Sob Nomad's Culture and Fashion Style (잡노마드(Job Nomad)의 문화와 패션스타일에 관한 연구)

  • 최지영;간호섭
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.53 no.1
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    • pp.129-141
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    • 2003
  • Much has been said in the 21st century about advanced information society following industrial society, so information appeared obviously. Based on the development of digital network due to such highly developed information, foresee a new phenomenon in anthropology. The new phenomenon is urban nomad such jobnomad who may change the culture of settlement with a long history into the culture of nomad. This study was to analyze the culture and fashion style of job nomad who may be a trend of fashion in the future. The results of this study are as follows Firstly, the features of job nomad are new communication technology and information technology called new media. And key words for job nomad are non-possession and professionalism and their feature in labor is one(1) person project. Secondly, job nomad to be a trend of future fashion is seeking wearable electric machine - wearable computer fashion. Thirdly, Zen style fashion reflecting Zen idea has such features as naturalism. indeterminism, equalitarianism, and moderation. Those features coincide with the tendency of job nomad who may lead the culture of fashion in the 21st century and do with human being's life style in the 21st century. Expect that job nomad appears newly in social and cultural phenomenon through this study can be developed toward a new and sensible fashion.

A Study of Origination and Genealogy on Street Style according to Anthropology (인류학적(人類學的) 분류(分類)에 따른 스트리트 스타일의 발생(發生)과 계보(系譜)에 관한 연구(硏究))

  • Lee, Young-Jae
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.11 no.4
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    • pp.183-203
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    • 2007
  • This study aims at providing useful fundamental information to re-establish the theories of modern fashion by examining the origination and genealogy of street style. The street styles focusing on caucasoid have a variety of genealogies such as western type, beat, teddy boy, hippie, skinhead, punk, neuron-mantic, indie kid, riot grrrl, grunge and techno cyber punk. In the same period, on the contrary, the streets styles focusing on negroid are zootie, hipster, modernist, rude boy, two-tone, rastafarian, funky, B-boy, fly girl, raggamuffine, bhangra, and acid jazz, which are seen as the culture of the large cities formed along Atlantic Ocean and Caribbean sea like England, America and Jamaica. These have root as the main fashion in western society. Ironically, most of the subculture concentrated on the whites were racists. Because of such a reason, the street styles have been formed as resistance culture that was unable to sympathize with their society and characteristics by distinguishing the whites and the colored people. Zootie or hipster that is one of the street fashion styles was formed in the 1940-50s, while the colored people who lived in the west Indies migrated to England or America. As a minimal modernist style called Ivy look in US, in that time, anti-culture formed by teenagers in whitey, teddy boy and mods fashion can be strictly different from the zootie and hipster. The colored people's street styles of the 1960s developed into aggressive and hard forms from the rude boy and two-tone while their resistance toward the whites was stronger. The rastafarian style researched the peak as the colored people's traditional ethnic characteristics or resistance intention for their freedom in the 1970s. In that time, The colored people's street styles of the 1960s developed into aggressive and hard forms from the rude boy and two-tone while their resistance toward the whites was stronger. The rastafarian style researched the peak as the colored people's traditional ethnic characteristics or resistance intention for their freedom in the 1970s. In that time, the street styles of the whites were mostly the skinhead or hippie. Most of them were racists toward the colored people. The punk type on shown on the whites focused on luxury and exaggerative costume. On the contrary, the funky style of the colored people focused on aggressive nihilism and form. With B-boy, fly girl, reggae, rap music, and break dancing in the 1980s, the subculture gradually told on the high fashion as well as the culture between the whites and the colored people. From such aspects, the colored people tried to maintain their unique traditional characteristics. However, their individual values surged by the coming young generation excluded the colored people's characteristic street styles. Focusing on gender, violence and private success among their major concerns, the raga muffin style that represents multi-races and multi-cultures was formed. The jazz style in the 1990s showed cold post-modernistic eclecticism different from that of the 1940s-50s. Simultaneously, the various classes appeared their street styles by emphasizing on each personality. Now that we are living in multi-cultural society, a human race or nationalism concept is getting obscurer. There is no obvious boundary line in the differences between human race and its fashion.

A Study on Space Embodiment of Supermodern Fashion Design (슈퍼모던 패션 디자인의 공간성 구현 연구)

  • Kim, Wan-Joo;Lee, Keum-Hee
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.16 no.6
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    • pp.1064-1075
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    • 2008
  • The purpose of this study is to grasp the change of modern space concept and analyze how to adopt and embody the change in modern fashion. The study researched wearer's costume space and analyzed space shown in supermodern fashion design by classifying it into response to non-space, allowance of wearer-based space, scientific space of architectural skill and embodiment of space image. As a study method, literature and study material of sociology, anthropology, fashion sociology and design field were referred. For picture data of supermodern fashion work, specialized book, designer, brand collection material and internet site pictures were collected and analyzed. The study result shows the following features of fashion design space embodiment corresponding to the change of supermodern environment. First, supermodern design secures closet space like pocket for portable objects and uses design space in order to provide the space for convenience of movement. Second, supermodern design creates wearer-based independent space in order to secure person's physical and mental stability in city environment. Third, supermodern design uses space scientifically from the aspect of detail and shape by applying space of architectural skill to space. Fourth, supermodern design shows aesthetic feature that embodies interpretation of space by conceptualizing space image and using fashion.

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