• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.7
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• pp.125-134
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• 2011

Sumuk drawings are made with water and muk(墨), which are used to express the light, shade and texture of an object. The expression methods of oriental drawing can be divided into three methods: pictorialization, abstractness and realism. The method of pictorialization expresses traditional pictures or letters. Abstractness show an artist's aesthetic feeling through sprinkling, splashing and spreading diffusion of muk. The method of realism is Takbon which makes a copy painting directly from a monument by rubbing a paper with ink. Modern fashion designer attempts to develop a new Sumuk technique based on both oriental drawing style and western watercolor painting style. Rather than following the designated styles of oriental drawings and Korean drawings, new Sumuk technique colors detailed structures expressed as outlines, dots and lines or creates abstract patterns through spreading or spilling in showing theme of flowers, plants and insects. In this study, in order to develop fashion cultural products with Sumuk technique, rubbed copy of the ancient 'Emile bell Takbon' was used. For this study, with the combination of different colors and the patterns from 'Emile bell Takbon', designs for scarfs, shirts and one-piece dresses were created. These techniques enabled to express soft and strong Takbon image in simple Sumuk technique in harmony with modern trends.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.8
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• pp.85-99
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• 2011

Geometrical figures have been used as artwork motifs from the ancient times to the present day. The area of fashion, being a part of modern art, is also largely influenced by geometry and geometrical shapes are being used as a motif for fashion design now more than ever before. However, studies about geometry in the fashion field are not yet done enough and further research is necessary. This research will therefore investigate the usages of round, square and triangular design in contemporary fashion. The main scope of this research is to look at the type of expression and analyze the intrinsic meanings of these shapes in modern fashion. This research will look profoundly into the general characteristics of these geometrical figures and analyze the effects and uniqueness found in the world collection introduced since 2007. As a result from this study, it was found that round and square objects were perceived in such a straightforward and positive way and these designs, when worn, really completed the final look. On the other hand, the triangular design was used mainly for spatial expansion and was interpreted in a more metaphorical, indirect and abstract way. The intrinsic meaning of round, square and triangle figures in contemporary fashion consists of the informal features that really steps out of the formative clothing structure. The topological changes that is formed from the interactive functions and the wholism that creates a new system through integration of the human body and clothing contains the intrinsic meaning of these geometrical figures. Based on the research results, the method of expression and the characteristics of modern day fashion's geometrical figures was able to be easily understood. This work provides the useful information on the development of fashion design and the extended interpretation of clothing structure.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.101-109
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• 2014

Bangryeong generally means rectangular collars at present. However, it is estimated that there would be Bangryeong in different shapes besides rectangular shape in ancient times, but there is no accurate evidence. The dispute on the shape of Bangryeong started with the records in Yegi(禮記) and Simui written during Zhou period, China, the oldest records on Bangryeong. However, there are no remains or paintings(pictorial data) accurately proving the different shapes of Bangryeong. While the new shape of Gokgeop(collar of Simui) was mentioned by Zhu Xi during Song period, it was not accurately verified. There are almost no literature, excavated objects or pictorial data on the shapes of Bangryeong which are not definitely identified. The shape of Bangryeong is identified to a certain extent by objects excavated or pictorial data during Yuan and Ming period. There will be definite reasons why Zhou Xibao and Hua Mei, the scholars in China, the y-shaped collar rolled on the chest among the objects excavated during Warring States Period as Bangryeong or Guryeong. Thus, this paper investigated the notes and description in Yegijeongui(禮記正義) and the records and notes during the Han period which are mentioned most frequently except Yegi among the records on Bangryeong. Accordingly, this paper identified that there are different shapes of Bangryeong except rectangular shape during the Han period. It is estimated that Bangyeong at that time had symmetric collars, the collars of Jikryeong which are not overlapped. The collar section after the neck section was straight. It was also said that Bangyeong was women's clothing. In other words, Bangyeong in the Han period suggests that the collar of Jikryeong was Bangryeong. As discussed above, Bangryeong has the long history and different meanings by period. However, it is very difficult to accurately define Bangryeong because there are almost no records on it. Nevertheless, Bangryeong will be discussed more in further study.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.39-56
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• 2008

It is a remarkable phenomenon that tattoos has been rapidly spreading among women of modern years. The extremism of feminine ornaments, and pricking and piercing of the skin seem to have deep connection with women's consciousness changing to being independent, active and aggressive. The objective of this study is to analyze the potential quality of today's women, who appears emblematically through tattoo, and to search out the whole aspect and keynote of female tattoos. The methods of research are by examining the general characteristics including concept and history, considering the type and significance of ethnic female tattoos, and then comparing with the symbolism of today's female tattoos. The sphere is limited to women's tattoos from ancient times to today's modern lift, examined from large portions of Africa, Asia, Australasia, the Americas, and Arctic regions. As a result, the following had been reflected in female tattoos in the past. First, incantation, tribe, adult age, adornment, marital status, domestic ability and sex distinction, where among others, the incantatory, ornamental symbol, and domestic sign were representatives. Second, the most popular body parts for having a tattoo were around the lips, hands and abdominal region. Third, the more harsh the environment becomes such as tropical forests, isolated islands, and polar regions, the more number of females have tatoos. Fourth, women's tattoos were much less glamorous and smaller compared to those of men, distinguishing one's sex. On the other hand, today's female tattoos can be classified as five symbols: masculinity, independence, voluptuousness, affection, and purity. These symbols contain women's mentality to pass the limit, and to overcome social inferiority. In modern society, where women must compete with met it has become necessary for women to educe their potential masculine qualities. Being violent accessories for them, tattoos became a mark of such potential. Therefore, in the future, women's interest and demand for tattoos are expected to rise in proportion to the social demand of women's force.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.163-180
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• 2019

A pattern is a symbolic mark of the psychological expression and ornamental desire of the human interior. In particular, plant patterns, from ancient times to modern times, express beauty across both the east and the west. The Joseon dynasty had a strong national will, and it was a time when the symbolism of Korea was established. Plant patterns were decorative and symbolic, filled with meaning in both the textile and craft sectors. This study looked at the frequency and figurative characteristics of the types of plant patterns in textiles, ceramics, woodworking, and metal craftsmanship of the Joseon dynasty. In addition, pattern designs were developed by extracting unit patterns to maintain the original shape, and by adding, magnifying, reducing, and superimposing flat steps and employing the four-fold sequence. The data collected was 826 examples in textiles and crafts, and 34 species of plants were analyzed as follows. In general, the flower patterns preferred soft flowers, flowers, apricot, and peony patterns, and fruit patterns emerged as decorative designs for pottery and woodwork from the 17th century, featuring pomegranates, grapes, fluorines, peaches, and walnut floss. Textiles and woodwork were arranged with many circular designs, while pottery and metal crafts were filled in many ways. Expressive types appeared to be the same as stylistic types for textiles and ceramics, and the construction types were the same in pottery and metal crafts. As such, it was found that even in the different areas of the sculpture, the same aesthetic values were reflected in the common figurative features today. Therefore, in this study, we developed a unique and competitive pattern design that accommodates the modern times and the Joseon dynasty. This development is expected to contribute not only to the development of cultural and tourism products in the future, but also to the tourism industry induced by the Korean wave.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.107-122
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• 2023

This study analyzed the style, dimensions, fabric patterns, colors, and fabrics of a traditional Chinese women's dress from the Zhou Dynasty, and reconstructed it in the form of a virtual garment using 3D CLO. Based on ancient flat image data and three-dimensional portrait data, who wore them, how they were worn, and how they were coordinated was analyzed. In order to analyze the size and pattern of the straight Ju Chines dress, data from the excavation report and the tomb owner's anthropometric measurements were combined to infer the wearing condition and organize the sculptural features. Dimensional analysis was carried out using a well-preserved small-scale woven cotton cloth as a restoration model, and the horizontal and vertical dimensions were reasonably estimated using the shape proportioning method. The analysis of the colors and patterns of the fabrics was based on the colors and patterns of the fabrics excavated from Masan Tomb No. 1 during the Eastern Zhou, Qin, and Han periods. Finally, a virtual model was created using data from the excavation report and the age and height information of the owner of the excavated robe, and the pose and size of the virtual model were determined using 3D CLO. Based on the previous research data, the garment was virtually sewn and simulated. The shape, pressure, and strain of the garment in different postures was also compared. Through the research direction of pattern and 3D restoration, this research maximizes the restoration of Chinese traditional women's dress and presents it in a more intuitive, comprehensive, and vivid way.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.73-80
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• 2010

This research examined the design characteristics of Madeleine Vionnet, a female fashion designer who left an enormous legacy and made a great contribution to the high added-value fashion industry. Her techniques can be dividing in to three types: the bias cutting, the design by geometrical methods, and the classical style of ancient Greek clothing. This research also intended to study the design cases in which Vionnet's drapery images are applied to modern fashion, mainly the haute couture works that have appeared at Dior collections since 2000. In terms of the characteristics of Madeleine Vionnet's design, First, she produced the best achievement in dress and ornament history by developing a new technique called bias cutting. Second, her work was groundbreaking because it changed the previously planar approach to the female body into a solid conception by cutting and connecting geometrical pieces in the form of quadrangle, triangle, and a quarter-circle. As a result, her works depicted feminine beauty to the fullest extent through the combination of the human body, excellent materials, and the most sophisticated technology and personal skill. Third, her approach was a classical style tinged with the Greek costume image. With this style, which was born by reinterpreting the key tone of the Greek epoch in a modern way, and transcending and even changing tradition, she created a form of beauty that only she could.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.49-56
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• 1998

This study is on the fashion design of velve, concentrating on the kinds and the images of it. The velvet, the pile fabrics, includes velveteen, velour(s), corduroy and plush. Ancient Chinese invented it first but Westerners used it widely in fashion since 14C because of the deep colors and the glimmering lights. In 20C the developments of textile industry, the mass production and the dyeing techniques made it popularized as velvet fashion. The velvet must be handled carefully and stretch velvet in vogue today needs the different pattern design and the dressmaking from general fabrics. 'For example, 55 size (bust girth 33", waist girth 26", hip girth 36") Jacket for ladies of stretch velvet, 3/4"ease in the bust line is eliminated at the back on the block pattern after normal pattern design. The costume of velvet has the images of elegance, nostalgia, and oriental ism. It has established the high quality, rich and refined elegance of Haute Couture. It could express the image of nostalgia, the longing for the past with the remarkable splendor. The orientalism of velvet costumes has represented the westerner's aspiration and imagination about the Orient with the intense color and over-decoration.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.2
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• pp.9-21
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• 1978

The object of this article is to examine the shapes and the development of the costume worn in the early and middle Yi Dynasty from the viewpoint of the history of customes with the excavated clothing from Chung-Ju (1530 A.D.), Wool-San (1650 A.D.), An-Dong (1650 A.D.) etc. The study of the history of costumes of the early years of the Yi Dynasty has been mainly dependent upon fiblirographical records sofar. So I have arranged in order some excavated clothing of the early Yi Dynasty, which gives us some means for the study of Korean historical costumes. It is noticeably remarkable that the daily wear of the early Yi Dynasty period was excavated for the first time from Chung-ju. The results drawn from this research are: It is argued that the original from of Chul-nik(天翼) has been excavated. This is the remnants Mongolian clothing of the Koryo Dynasty, and it is sketched in the Dai-Myong-jib-lei(大明集禮) as Yo-sun-o-ja which the lower classes usually put on. The similar clothing is also handed down as a Dan-po(緞袍) from the ming Dynasty, and we can presume that Chul-nik was a common clothing regardless of the social status of their wearer. It is also remarkable that even women at those times wore the Chul-nik. The length of the Cheo-go-ri of the early Yi Dynasty was the middle hip length, and the edge of the sleeves was very wide which called Cham-soo, and it was handed down to the middle period of the Yi Dynasty which can be seen in the coat (po) of women(直領袍). The systems of the straight-collar Po(袍) during the early Yi Dynasty were discovered for the first time. This Po(袍) which would represent the po-system of the early years of Yi Dynasty, is handed down even to the middle of Yi Dynasty. The collars of the Po(coat) of the early Yi Dynasty are mostly double collars(二重衿) and these give us the advantage in reconsidering of the cheo-go-ri(赤古里) of the Kingdom of Shin-la, or Koryo Dynasty. The edge of the women's Ba-ji(袴) of the early Yi Dynasty was wide and the Ba-ji had a shoulder belt which connect the front part with the back one, which showed the practical point of Ba-ji. The men's Ba-ji of the middle Yi Dynasty was the same as can be seen today and it is clear that the Mongolian Ba-ji dated to B.C. 1 was the same one also. In the system of the Chi-ma(常), there seems to be no differences between the ancient styles and those of these times.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.141-154
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• 2016

The gilt-bronze decorated bamboo mudguards with heavenly horse design excavated in 1973 at Cheonma Tomb of Shilla are the unprecedented relics in Korean history as it has its original structure. Although the bamboo mudguards were excavated in not only Cheonma Tomb, but also in Geumgwanchong and Geumryeongchong, all of them remains into pieces. In addition, there are no exact data related with its structure and manufacturing technique. The report deals with the manufacturing technique of the bamboo mudguards with heavenly horse design excavated in Cheonma Tomb through the naked eye's observation, X-Ray Fluorescence, and Transmission X-rays analysis etc. Bamboo mudguards basically have the three divided structure with central-focus structure of a radiation style. And the mudguards consists of Bratticing gilt-bronze, fabric, and bamboo plates together, as ornamental fringe of 4 plates. The surface of the gilt bronze plates was decorated with a variety of workmanship and pendant. Bamboo plates have a waved pattern by using about three hundred bamboo bark. Two types of textiles were mainly found in the textile plates, and the leather were partially found. In order to combine all plates together, gilt-bronze bottonhead, pendant decoration, and ornamental fringe were used. It would be helpful to study bamboo mudguards during 5th-6th centuries in Shilla period and basis investigations of Geumgwanchong and Geumryeongchong excavations.