• 복식
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• 제25권
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• pp.145-155
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• 1995

After I stated the kinds of ancient embro-ideries of Shoso-in and the other places in Japan, including Silk embroidered design of a bird, Silk embroidery on a silk ground, and Buddha preaching. I searched for the possible countries they could have been made in. I found that Japan merely imported the dyes and paints from Korea, On the other hand, Korea unlike Japan, was capable of manufac-turing the embroderies from early times. The embroideries in Shoso-in and the other place, have respectivly on them the old Korean types of patterns such as flowers, lotuses, flying clouds, phoenixes, intertwined lions, houses, ghost masks, fairies and turtles, seen often on the titles of Silla.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제36권10호
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• pp.119-130
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• 1998

This is on the dance costume of ancient Greece. The present study classified the characteristics of Greek dance and dance costume according to the silhouette, quality of material, color and ornaments. Materials of the study are the pictures and figures presented in literatures, sculptures, crockeries, murals, coins. The dances of Greece can be classified into religious dance, educational dance, recreational dance, dramatic dance and various forms of dance on each dances were developed. Especially, it is the greatest character that Greeks gave dances educational value and created composit art including song, lines and dance. As dance costume, Himation, Chiton, Chlamys which Greeks generally wore were widely worn. Also, the beauty of dance costume was maximized by the changes of basic costumes and development of various ways of wearing. Especially, professional dancers wore costumes shorter than knee-length ones forming a A-line silhouette different from a cylindrical one. Thin cloth revealing body silhouette such as fiax hemp, linen, silk were used as materials of dance costumes. As for colors, white was mainly used, But orange, blue and green were used, too. They wore band, scarf, bonnet on the head and seldom used any ornaments except for fibula. They wore the same sandals which Greeks wore, Crepis, front-heeled shoes which is thought to be the origin of modern ballet shoes for the technique of toe in dance. As mentioned above, as the dance costume of Greece were mainly worn as the similar forms of the dance costume of Greeks, various forms of costumes were worn with the development of dance and bold ways of wearing and silhouette were developed unlike the costume of common people.

• 복식
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• 제18권
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• pp.373-381
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• 1992

Woman in Choson era had various kind of accdssories like rings, ear ring, ornamentak hairpins and so on. Among them their favorite was the Norigae, the pendent trinket. With the embroidered ornament at its center, beads and knots were attached to the upper and lower part, and it was hung with a tassel. It was carried on the string of the Chogori. norigae oreginated in waist string of Three Countries era(Sills, Paekje and Koguryo) ; had been changed with the development of fashion, embroidery and the influence of Buddhistic culture. The differences between Embroidered Norigae and Norigae are following. If the ornament at its center is made of such jewels as gold, silver, jade and the like, it is called Norigae. But if the ornament at its center is made of the embroidered Norigae. Such a Embroidered Norigae in which perfume was contained, was as a perfume box or a perfume bag and was carried on the strings of Chogori by Danjak(single work). The Differences between ancient Embroidered Norigae of late Choson era and modern Embroidered Norigae are Following; 1) The type of main body-the embroidered ornament at its center was mainly embroidered with the shape of animals in both of ancient Embroidered Norigae was usually formes like a bat and that of modern Embroidered Norigae like butterfly. 2) plants were adapted as the main design of ancient Embroidered Norigae, but plants and animals as that of modern Embroidered Norigae. 3) The colors of the background and the design are usually red in both ancient and modern Embroidered norigae. 4) The tassels of ancient Embroidered Norigae were mode in the shape of srick and a strawberry. but the tassels of modern Embroidered Norigae were mainly made in the shape of a stick. 5) Nowadays the beauty of external form is considered more important while the symbol of main body was considered more important in Choson era. 6) The role of Thidon in the composition of Embroidered Norigae is declined and a lot of main bodies are used in modern Embroidered Norigae. 7) Modern Korean people are apt to choose Embroidered Norigae depending upon the design of main body and the traditional Korean beauty. 8) Modern people who desire to get new thing, try to make the design of main body various. As their cognition of Korean tradition is of the increase, the restoration of ancient Embroidered Norigae to its original form has been accom

• 복식
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• 제50권5호
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• pp.5-24
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• 2000

The results from the consideration of this are as follows. 1. Silla Kingdom has been the name of chronolongical era, from king Bubhung 2nd years to Jinduck 4 years. 2. From Dang dynasty has been received to King of Silla, first class-third class of Dang's office and rank. 3. After unification of Silla Kingdom, Dang dynasty's envoy and missionary and many commercial men and artist come froze Dang to Silla, threfore, influenced their costume habbits and behabiers from royal families costumes and common peaples costume, without concern of that one's social position. 4. Ancient Silla Kingdom performed a religious service an emperor's ceremony, but after unification, performed King's level a religious service, therefor King's ceremonial costumes are Dang dynasty's king's level Myunryukwanbok.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제2권4호
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• pp.13-20
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• 1998

Scandinavia consists of Norway, Sweden, Denmark, Finland, Iceland and Lapland, all linked by historical and geographical ties. In this respect, the objective of this research was to clarify the folk costume of the Scandinavia. Scandinavia many skilled handicrafts are practised, such as leatherwork, silverwork and embroidery. The most popular colours are yellow, blues, reds, greens and white. For women the costume consist of a blouse with a bodice, skirt and apron, over which is worn a jacket or shawl, accompanied by a headdress. Their accessories may be jewellery, belts, kerchiefs and separate pockets. For the men, the costume is a shirt, trousers or breeches, worn with a waistcoat and jacket, neck scarf, and topped with a hat or cap. And the Lapps, both men and women, wear woollen shirts beneath their blue-skirted tunics, and blue trousers. It is one of the most ancient of the costumes worn in western Europe, due to its total suitability to their way of life.

• 복식
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• 제60권3호
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• pp.10-25
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• 2010

The culture of the play of Korean ancient times is well described in the mural painting of Goguryeo. The example is people appearing in the play painting of performance, dance, hunting, and acrobatics out of 20 mural painting of genre. Their costume is broadly classified into performance, dance, hunting, and acrobatic costume and can be subdivided according to the types of costume. First, the head gear of play costume reflected the formality and social conditions of play. In the performance and hunting costume, all performers wore gwanmo(official hats), which seemed to make it a rule to wear gwanmo. Gwanmo was borrowed intactly from Goguryeo without any changes or decorations, which showed that the status symbolism of head gear was applied intactly to play costume. Second, the play costume of Goguryeo enhanced efficiency by blending daily costume with elements and decorations needed for play performance. Specifically the change of length was prominent: the short sleeves of jeogori(traditional blouse), the long sleeves of dance costume, and fastening below the knee or putting into the long shoes to shorten the length of baji(traditional pants). Finally, as it is well known that there was some differences in the expression modes of daily clothes in Goguryeo between Tonggu and Pyeongyang. Similarly, play costume tried to change costume according to the subject of play but maintained the locality and peculiarity of Goguryeo costume. Although performance costume showed many local differences, it also had similarity and peculiarity. In dance costume, long sleeves and patterns which frequently appeared in the Tonggu area reappeared in the Pyeongyang.

• 복식
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• 제67권4호
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• pp.38-57
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• 2017

Traditional costume in Indonesia represents identity of a person and it displays the origin and the status of the person. Where culture and religion are fused, the traditional costume serves one of the most functions in rituals in Bali. This research aims to analyze the characteristics of Balinese costumes by focusing on the Legong dance costume. Quantitative research was performed using 332 images of Indonesian costumes and 210 images of Balinese ceremonial costumes. Qualitative research was performed by doing field research in Puri Saba, Gianyar and SMKN 3 SUKAWATI(Traditional Art Middle School). The paper illustrates the influence and structure of Indonesian traditional costume. As the result, focusing on the upper wear costume showed that the ancient era costumes were influenced by animism. They consist of tube(kemben), shawl(syal), corset, dress(terusan), body painting and tattoo, jewelry(perhiasan), and cross. The Modern era, which was shaped by religion, consists of baju kurung(tunic) and kebaya(kaftan). The Balinese costume consists of the costume of participants and the costume of performers. Bali dancing is grouped into Wali dance(sacred), Bebali dance(theatrical), and Balih-balihan dance(entertainment). The Legong dance is included in the Balih-balihan dance, and its costume developed from 1920 until present. The characteristics of Legong dance costumes are 'Theatrical,' 'Angelic,' 'Charming,' and 'Decorative.' In conclusion, the balance of religion, culture, and art gives a unique trait in Bali. The Balinese social system, which is based on Hinduism, has influenced art and its function. This relationship creates a strong structure to the Balinese ceremonial costume, especially the Legong dance costume.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제5권4호
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• pp.12-31
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• 1997

This is a study on the changes of the ancient underclothes. Underclothing includes all such articles, worn by either sex, as were completely or mainly concealed from the spectator by the external costume. Functions of underclothes are follow ; to protect the body from cold, to support the shape of the costume, to cleanliness, to erotic use of underclothes and as a method of class distinction. Linen is the oldest as materials and cotton came into general use after the Restoration of 1660. We must suppose that woolen petticoat was at least as old as the Middle Ages and silk was rarely used until late in Victorian times. Until the middle of the last century underclothes were necessarily hand-made, and the absence of fit was noticeable until the introduction of man\`s drawers, fitting the leg, at the close of the eighteen century. Strings and ribbons were the fastenings for underclothes until the middle of the seventeenth century, when they were replaced by buttons. One outstanding example of the first type of figures is a Babylonian girl of about 3000 BC from Sumeria who wears that today would immediately be described as briefs. Female statues show no trace of anything being worn under the chiton, but there is literary evidenced that the Greeks. A band of linen of kid was bound round the waist and lower torso to shape and control it. It was known as the Zone or girdle. The apodesmos, meaning a band, breast band, occurs in a fragment of Aristophanes. A Roman mosaic shows female athletes wearing a bikini-briefs and bra in the fourth century AD. A similar band, called the mastodeton, or breast band, was also worn round the bust, apparently to flatten or minimise it, as in the 1920s, and not, to stress its curves. In Rome, too, women sometimes wore bands of material round the hips and bust-a cestus or girdle is referred to by the poet Martial and seems to have been similar to the zone, but wider, and the strophium, or breast band, is mentioned by Cicero.

• 복식
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• 제62권2호
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• pp.26-39
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• 2012

This study intends to reconsider pleat, which was undermined as something too simple to express the details for women's costume, by focusing on the aesthetic value of plea in men's costumes in the west before the 20th century. Furthermore, based on the aesthetic value of the pleat, diverse studies on contemporary men's costumes shall help to attempt to set up a basis for the new mode of men's costume. The pleat, a component in the costume since the ancient times, had unique characteristics including functionality, a sense of volume, directing effect that is caused by line repetitions and formativeness that results through elasticity. First, the aesthetics of the pleat before the 20th century shows rhythmic sense through the repetition of the pleat line as shown in the drape type costume, and it also shows a sense of volume as the pleat is moved along the motion of the body. Second, it shows functionality as the expansion of space moves in accordance with the motion of body sets up an internal space of the costume that facilitates body motion. Third, the pleat extends two dimension space into three dimension space using its elasticity. It exaggerates specific parts of the costume while ignoring body shape in order to symbolize status and authority of men. Fourth, it unifies the costume by wrapping the body by using quadrangle cloths with drapers, and expanding the silhouette with the pleat artificially to conceal the physical character and personality of the wearer. The physical character of the wearer disappears into the space made by the pleat. The pleat reveals the voluptuous beauty within.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.17-33
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to find the character of Cleopatra (69 B.C-30 B.C) by analyzing materials about Cleopatra, and to figure out symbolism and costume presented in movie . Costume of the main character, Cleopatra, compound the type of Egyptian traditional clothes, the change of it, and the trend in the 1960's. And, the symbolic meaning of it is also reinforced by adding ancient Egyptian myth to it. This kind of symbol is usually represented in Cleopatra clothing, especially in weaving pattern, embroidery, and ornament. And color of the clothes not only have their on predominance, but also can have their meaning fade away by mixed with each other, and also the shape has relation with the meaning of color. To sum up, the color and pattern of ancint Egyptian Cleopatra as alive formalize the power that come from coherence with the sun god in the center, which a used to maintain the power of the king. Costume in movie also contained color and pattern as a symbol of religion to symbolize the absolute power of king. These kinds of symbols are reemerging through historical recurrences and exotic interests.