• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.11-23
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• 2015

The purpose of this study was to investigate the differences in female college students' sociocultural attitude toward appearance and pursuit of clothing benefits according to their narcissism. Data collection was conducted through survey for female college students, and a total 221 questionnaires were used for data analyses. For analysis of data, frequency analysis, factor analysis, reliability analysis, and one-way ANOVA were applied. The results were summarized as follows. First, the factor analysis on narcissism resulted in two dimensional structures: self-initiated and other-dependent narcissism. The respondents were categorized into four narcissism groups, such as compositive, self-initiated, other-dependent, and withdrawn narcissism groups. Second, the factor analysis on sociocultural attitude toward appearance resulted in two dimensional structures: internalization and awareness. Five dimensions of pursuit of clothing benefits were identified: individuality, self-expression, fashion, comfort, and social recognition pursuit. Third, there were significant differences among the categorized narcissism groups in sociocultural attitude toward appearance and pursuit of clothing benefits. The results confirm that narcissism has an impact on sociocultural attitude toward appearance and pursuit of clothing benefits. It is expected that this study provides insight for apparel makers or retailers to develop their marketing strategies.

• Transactions on Control, Automation and Systems Engineering
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.124-129
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• 2002

This paper demonstrates that the largest Lyapunov exponent λ of recurrent neural networks can be controlled efficiently by a stochastic gradient method. An essential core of the proposed method is a novel stochastic approximate formulation of the Lyapunov exponent λ as a function of the network parameters such as connection weights and thresholds of neural activation functions. By a gradient method, a direct calculation to minimize a square error (λ - λ$\^$obj/)$^2$, where λ$\^$obj/ is a desired exponent value, needs gradients collection through time which are given by a recursive calculation from past to present values. The collection is computationally expensive and causes unstable control of the exponent for networks with chaotic dynamics because of chaotic instability. The stochastic formulation derived in this paper gives us an approximation of the gradients collection in a fashion without the recursive calculation. This approximation can realize not only a faster calculation of the gradient, but also stable control for chaotic dynamics. Due to the non-recursive calculation. without respect to the time evolutions, the running times of this approximation grow only about as N$^2$ compared to as N$\^$5/T that is of the direct calculation method. It is also shown by simulation studies that the approximation is a robust formulation for the network size and that proposed method can control the chaos dynamics in recurrent neural networks efficiently.

• Journal of Distribution Science
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• v.13 no.7
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• pp.85-90
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• 2015

Purpose - Global trends play a part to change the structure of the fashion industry. In particular, companies attempting to conduct innovative marketing centering on such products as SPA brands are growing into global companies. SPA stands for "Specialty Store Retailer of Private Label Apparel", meaning its activities are fully integrated from manufacturing through sales, including material procurement design, product, distribution, inventory management, and final sales. For this reason, more understanding of individual corporate profitability is very sensitive to consumer's attitudinal changes. The effects that corporate marketing activities on customer lifetime value through brand attitude were analyzed based on a structural equation model. Rust suggested value equity, brand equity, and relationship equity as customer equity driver. The study examines Chinese consumer because China is the fastest growing fashion market in the world. Research design, data, and methodology - The survey targeted Chinese college student age 20s. Only respondents who had purchased SPA brands in the past year were included for this research. A total of 303, except for 47 missing data of 350 distributed questionnaires were included in this research. The questionnaire is consists of six part to measure value, brand, relationship equity, attitude toward brand, purchase intention and demographic characteristics. This research conducted exploratory factor analysis and reliability test. To verify research hypotheses, structural equation model test was conducted. As for customer equity, diversified models in consideration of the scope of acquisition data, a method of collection of data, influencing factor, and predictability were suggested based on a net present value model. However, the history of customer equity study is relatively short, and sufficient empirical analyses have not been conducted, so more integrated analysis is required. In this study, the concept of driver suggested by Rust was applied to figure out the effects that consumer's attitude has on customer equity. The customer equity driver suggested by them consists of brand equity, value equity, and relationship equity. Results - This study reveals that value equity and brand equity have a positive influence on relationship equity. And, relationship equity has a positive influence on purchase intention through brand attitude. However, value equity and brand equity do not influence on brand attitude. Conclusion - The results of this research generated following implications. First, SPA brands need to take advantage of their value equity such as perceived low price and up-to-date fashion style to attract Chinese young consumer. Second, strong brand equity promises dominants position in the competitive market. As Chinese fashion market grows rapidly, SPA brands can consider branding strategy such as flagship store and celebrity marketing enhancing brand image. Third, the core concept of customer equity strategy is to maintain a relationship with their expecting and existing customers. The relationship equity is built by brand equity and value equity. When SPA brands serves product and service meet with individual customers, customers have intimacy to the brands.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.61 no.4
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• pp.687-707
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• 2023

This study was conducted to obtain useful information on the development of the future second-hand fashion market by obtaining information on the current situation through unstructured text data distributed as news articles related to 'purchase of second-hand clothing' and 'purchase of second-hand luxury goods'. Text-based unstructured data was collected on a daily basis from Naver news from January 1st to December 31st, 2022, using 'purchase of second-hand clothing' and 'purchase of second-hand luxury goods' as collection keywords. This was analyzed using text mining, and the results are as follows. First, looking at the frequency, the collection data related to the purchase of second-hand luxury goods almost quadrupled compared to the data related to the purchase of second-hand clothing, indicating that the purchase of second-hand luxury goods is receiving more social attention. Second, there were common words between the data obtained by the two collection keywords, but they had different words. Regarding second-hand clothing, words related to donations, sharing, and compensation sales were mainly mentioned, indicating that the purchase of second-hand clothing tends to be recognized as an eco-friendly transaction. In second-hand luxury goods, resale and genuine controversy related to the transaction of second-hand luxury goods, second-hand trading platforms, and luxury brands were frequently mentioned. Third, as a result of clustering, data related to the purchase of second-hand clothing were divided into five groups, and data related to the purchase of second-hand luxury goods were divided into six groups.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.6
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• pp.165-181
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• 2012

Alexander McQueen is a typical designer of unconventional and experimental design who showed maximalism through outstanding tailoring. The purpose of this research is to study formative characteristics of maximalism that are expressed in modern fashion based on the works of Alexander McQueen, and to suggest boundless possibilities of development through his sense of design and the expressive ability of his works. Theoretical considerations will be made through literature research and precedent studies, and the collection data for case analysis will be used to select ready-to-wear women's collections from 2001 S/S to 2010 F/W by referring to internet sites. The study results are as follows. First, the most representative characteristic of formative characteristics of maximalism expressed in Alexander McQueen's works is expandability. Second, decorations used as a part of detail on clothes is used as decoration itself, and handcraft expression is shown through excessive use of decorations. The expandability of decoration that emphasizes splendid magnificence is expressed through flawless technique. Third, the fusion of each different image and the combination of ethnic image and modern image was most prevalent. Fourth, fantasy expresses a fictive image that could not be seen in reality by expressing an unrealistic and maximized image through the imagination of designer. Fifth, experimental element is expressed as an image that actively reflects the challenging spirit, which suggests a new direction of beauty through shocking and extraordinary images of the inner world of the designer and the root of new ideas about inhumane modern society.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.41
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• pp.169-183
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• 1998

The Tartan, the representative check pattern and traditional costume of Scothand, is the most popualr checker which has inherited from the clans of the Scotch Highlands in the ancient times and continued to develop. It is a symbol of the Scotch culture and tadition and widely used in various ways according to status, birthplace purpose and use. Therefore, this study was intended to inquire into Tartan check. The purpose of this study attempted to make a systematic investigation of the characteristic of the Tartan check. the checker using vertical and horizontal lines which was the universal plastic element and inquire into it in terms of era, designers and combined works. By doing so, this study attempted to investigate the phase of the Tartan check in world fashion and further forecast the future of checker design applicable to the 21th-Century fashion. In addition it, attempted to investigate the features of Scottch costume unknown in our academic circles and inquire into the proless in while the Scottch has retained the originality of its own which suppressed by neighboring countries. This study could find out that the checker is the element of infinite applicability in the future. It is expected that the sophisticated and beautiful design using the checker will be presented by many Korean designer through the overall and systanatic study of the checker. On the other hand, to make an empirical study costume of other races, a comprehensive examination should be made of the social and cultural background against which locals are using their costume, through the survey of their real costume and on-spot research. It this respect, this study has some limitation in time and data collection. Besides the analysis of costume through materials and photos in museums as well as the study of cloth material and accurate colors was not con여cted in this in this study. This will remain to be study of in the future.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.266-278
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• 2018

This study investigated the transformation of the Chanel jacket by looking at clothing design and constructional components. This study explored Chanel jacket's designs from 2001 S/S to 2016-17 F/W, and collected designs from Samsung Design Net and Vogue. The study used 690 designs with the following results. First, in the silhouette of the Chanel jacket, straight silhouette and hourglass silhouette had the most; in addition, in the length, hip line and under hip line were in order. Second, in case of collar and neckline, the form of a non-collar was the most and revealed the persistence of round neckline which is the basic style of a Chanel jacket. Third, in the shape of sleeves, the loose-fit straight sleeves, wide sleeves, and cocoon sleeves appeared most often. In method of closure, button, zipper were in order, and snaps or without closure appeared. Fourth, in the form of braids, various forms such as twisted yarns, leashes, or lace were used, and patch pockets were mainly used in pockets. Chanel maintains its original design by using various methods. Chanel tried to improve activity and functionality through silhouettes, lengths, necklines, and sleeves. The unchanging expression of the world of Chanel will continue to display and inherit future value. This study can provide Chanel's unique characteristics and new ideas that can transform their origins for jacket design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.7
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• pp.151-164
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• 2004

This Studies on 20th century fashion was carried out according to the classification of the times as made up Belle Epoque, New Look, Big Look, and Body-Consciousness. Aside from research in literatures, research into 20th fashion also include the analysis of photo had been taken from various collection. The enlargement beauty of costume had been place under the aesthetic category and, by interpreting the analogies of presented in aesthetic consciousness. the true nature of the voluminous enlargement in costume had been traced. To conclude, this study finds there are between the aesthetic characteristic differences in the aesthetic consciousness of the costumes in history and the present-day fashion. The aesthetic consciousness of the voluminous enlargement of the present-day was found to have the following characteristic ; (1) History-oriented tradition (2) Metaphorica autonomous (3) Freedom of breaking with restriction (4) Dismantling the irregularity (5) Hedonistic play instinct (6) Psychological compensation (7) Sexual sensuality (8) Ideal of the times (9) Aesthetic ornament (10) Feeling of satisfaction through self-enlargement. From list above. metaphorical sensuality, aesthetic ornament and the feeling of satisfaction driven by Self-Enlargement are the same characteristics found in the aesthetics consciousness of the voluminous enlargement of the costume In history in that they are the aesthetic consciousness above time and space. It is metaphorical sensuality which transform woman's body in to distorted images as influenced by both capitalism and materialism in the last 20 years. These are represented by the sadomasochistic and fetish images as the woman's metaphorical voluminous enlargement is apparently becoming more positive, radical and obscene especially in terms of expression.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.46 no.5
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• pp.848-867
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• 2022

As an emerging market with rapid economic growth, while being a key region of the K-culture expansion, Vietnam draws increasing scientific attention. This study focuses on the MZ generation, Vietnam's leading consumer group, revealing their consumption value structure. An online survey was used for data collection purposes, investigating 368 Vietnamese consumers between 18-37 years of age. Six value dimensions were derived as results of the present analysis: functional, emotional, social, ethical, self-expression, and autonomy-oriented value. Among them, functional value includes two sub-dimensions of utility and price, while emotional value entails three sub-dimensions, namely hedonism, novelty, and aesthetics. 'Self-expression value' and 'autonomy-oriented value', reflecting the characteristics of the MZ generation, who actively express themselves and respect proactive decision-making, are becoming important standards of the consumption attitude of young Vietnamese. Moreover, the pursuit of 'novelty' was derived as a factor reflecting emotional values, revealing an association between hedonic consumption, and seeking for newness and difference. Furthermore, the relationships between each consumption value dimension, respective demographic characteristics, and global consumption propensity were investigated. The present findings aim to provide insights into young Vietnamese consumers' attitudes and intend to serve as a foundation for future research.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.145-162
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• 2019

This study reviewed photos of women's jackets shown at Milano Collections from 2013 S/S to 2017 F/W to identify the variations and trends in their structural components and design elements with respect to year and season. 576 photos, which consist of 276 S/S jackets and 300 F/W jackets by renowned Italian luxury fashion brands; Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Fendi, Max Mara and Jil Sander, were analyzed. Some of the highlighted findings are as follows; in the structural aspects, the H-line silhouette, below waist to hip line length, natural shoulder line and single button closure were the most frequently appearing components among all the jackets. For the design elements, the largest number of jackets was made of woven fabric in single color, while fur was mostly used in F/W seasons for its warmth, heaviness and bulky appearance. From the results, it was established that variations were made to the jacket components and design elements to the extent that they convey predominant jacket styles with a certain level of practicality and performance. However, the study also found that some of the jackets demonstrated design diversity and innovation by adopting daring styles, bold materials and colors. As the findings of this study identified the variations and trends in women's jacket components in recent years, they can be applied towards developing high end women's jackets to meet the demands and distinctive needs of luxury clothing buyers and distributors.