• 미국학
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• 제43권1호
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• pp.83-97
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• 2020

"Behind a Mask" (1866) marks the new direction of Louisa May Alcott's artistic and personal life. Her European trip solidified her identity as a mature woman, most importantly as a mature American woman, one whose independence from Victorian stereotypes would, from now on, make her fortune and fame. Her sensational stories, especially "Behind a Mask," would tell truths that readers recognized but had rarely seen written. These truths would free them, and the author herself, to explore their talents as individuals. Henceforth, Alcott would embody the successful American artistic entrepreneur as one who shed the European domination of false titles and inherited wealth. These motifs of the transnational connection pervade the story, in the form of images and likenesses. Just as Alcott would soon, in two years, reach astonishing financial success with the publication of Little Women, her meteoric ascent parallels America's rise to power in the world's economy, which came about with almost alarming speed after the conclusion of the American Civil War.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제12권5호
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• pp.126-140
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• 2008

This thesis aims to examine the symbolism of color in the clothing of women, focusing on the protagonist of the movie Elizabeth: The Golden Age (2007). At the beginning of the movie, the Queen wears gowns with cartwheel ruff and wheel farthingales, symbolizing the attempt of establishing a powerful majesty. However, the Queen falls in love with Walter Raleigh and her clothing comes to emphasize femininity displaying her cleavage. Later on, her clothing indicates charismatic authority as she prepares for the Spanish war. At the end of the movie, the Queen who led the the country to victory in war puts on a luxurious gown with butterfly wings that reminds of a fairy queen. The colors of the Queen's clothing are categorized into three groups. First, the color red represents two opposite allegories. The positive image of red denotes Christ's blood, the love of God, and noble status of the Queen's image as a savior of England. On the other hand, red represents lewdness and evil which insinuate that the Queen is being attacked on her religious and political genuineness. Second, the color blue represents Saint Maria, chastity, and divinity. Third, the color goldw and white represent the Queen's ideals which are chastity as a virgin Queen and divinity.

• 미술이론과 현장
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• 제7호
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• pp.89-123
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• 2009

The Philippines was colonized by Spain for about centuries, from 1521 to 1898, and ruled by America for around four decades, from 1899 to 1946. After recovering from the Second World War, the government started to harness human labor as export itself. In the present time the overseas Filipinos keep the economy afloat with their steady transfer of money to relatives and dependents. Through the art works, the issue which Filipinos were exploited and exported by its government has been reflected as the various allegories. As Filipinos traditionally follow and keep Catholic belief, themes of Christ's sacrifice has allegorically been represented as salvation, struggle, suppression, and emancipation of people. Through the allegory, we can interpret both the intrinsic and superficial texts. Also we can identity certain modes of the visuality of allegory in selected works from Philippine art history that in their complex mediations materialize the people and dignity of their predicament and their prevailing. Philippine art can be divided as three different features: passion, vagrancy, and mass formation. The passion stage was depicted as deep structure of Christian thought and devotional feeling, harsh capitalist system. In the pictures of vagrancy, under the regime of Ferdinand Marcos, the themes of drift, deprivation, and homelessness are reckoned through the images of pictures. The stories represented with allegory have been played an important role to bring local issues up as national ones. Those stages take us to the processes of mass formation or the depiction of the people as a moment in the totality of force. The allegorical sign refers to another sign that precedes it, but with which it will never able to coincide reach back to a previous stage and in this constant attempt at return incorporates a structural distance from its origin. The true people's art is one that radically generates transformative technologies and techniques so that it irrevocably breaks the plane of "art". In the painting, the truth is represented by functioning as foundation of a rhetoric of the image. And at this axis, the passional, the vagrant, and the mass formation tend to come together because they render the form of contingency that must be suffered and hopefully surpassed, a Filipino subjectivity that must be stitched in time.

• 영미문화
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.251-285
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• 2014

Monsters cannot speak. They have been objectified and represented through a particular concept 'monstrosity' that renders the presence of monsters effectively simplified and nullified. In contemporary monster narratives, however, the site of monsters reveals that they could be the complex construction of society, culture, language and ideology. As going into the structure that concept is based on, therefore, meanings of monsters would be seen to be highly unstable. When symbolic language strives to match monsters with a unified concept, their meanings become only further deferred rather than valorized. This shows the language of monsters should disclose the self-contradiction inherent in 'monstrosity,' which has made others—namely beings we define as 'different' from ourselves in culture or physical appearance—embodied as abject and horrifying monsters. Unable to be understood, accepted, or called humans. I analyse Frankenstein and Dracula that firmly converge monstrous bodies into a symbolic meaning, demonstrating how this fusion causes problems in the multicultural society. I especially emphasize the undeniable affirmation of expurgated others we need to have empathetic relations with, because their difference, unfamiliarity, and slight divergences are likely to be defined as abnormalities. In the multicultural society, thus, we must learn to embrace diversity, while also having to recognize there are many others that have been thought of as monsters; ironically enabling us to think about an undeniable imperative of being responsive to other people. In this respect, the monstrous inhuman goes to the heart of the ethical undercurrent of multiculturalism, its resolute attempt to recognize and respect someone else's difference from me. A focus on empathetic relations with others, thus, can strengthen the process of creating social mechanisms that do justice to the competing claims of different cultural groups and individuals.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제29권2호
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• pp.252-271
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to expand satirical expressions that appear in a wide range of arts into fashion and to analyse and present satirical expressions that appear in contemporary fashion through the collections of Thom Browne. Theoretical examination of satirical concepts were made of domestic and foreign academic theses, dissertations, precious studies, and publications related to satire. Analysis was conducted on cases in which satirical expressions were applied in literature, painting, sculpture, and fashion. Based on these studies, analysis was conducted on satirical expressions appearing in Thom Browne's work. Material was gathered from collection reviews, interview articles, professional books, and internet photo material from professional fashion magazines encompassing 16 years of Thom Browne's collections officially recorded in the international fashion magazine 'Vogue', ranging from the 2006 S/S collection to the 2021 S/S collection. From this, a total of 1,753 photos were collected as data. Characteristics of satirical expression were analyzed and the results were as follows. A fluid reconstruction of 'gender fluid', dual meanings of metaphorical allegories, playful expressions of visual wit, constructions made of overlapped disassembled material, and borrowing of morphological distortion were all identified. Accordingly, satirical approaches as social aspects and objects in the flow of modern thought appear as positive forms based in humor that hope to be improved. This study anticipate the concept of satire will expand into a positive form as a new direction of fashion.

• 트랜스-
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• 제4권
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• pp.87-109
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• 2018

90년대에 만들어진 환상적 한국영화 계열의 장르는 다양하다. 이들 작품의 환상성은 굳이 '귀신' 소재 영화들만 한정되어 발현되지 않는다. 예를 들어, 작가 이상(Lee sang)의 미스테리를 바탕으로 완성된 영화 <건축무한 육면각체의 비밀>이 구조주의적 환상의 이야기를 지녔다고 한다면, <텔미썸딩> 같은 작품은 심리주의적으로 관습적인 환상을 지니고 있다고 이야기할 수 있다. 본고는 당대 한국영화의 환상성을 '사실주의에 기반한 알레고리의 완성'을 통해 들여다본다. 그를 위해서 에티엔 수리오(Etienne Souriau)의 환상성 개념을 빌린다. 일부 영화에서 환상성은 현상하는 자연에서 직접 발견될 수 있으며, 이때 자연을 객관화시키는 주체로 자신들의 위치를 격상시키고, 자연에 대한 지배를 정당화한 인간 존재는 그 대가로 '소외'를 맞이하게 된다. 영화의 내러티브에서 이러한 소외의 개념은 알레고리를 통해 자주 드러나는데, 특히 에티엔 수리오가 이른 '개인의 경험'에 따른 환상성의 발현에서 이 점은 더욱 극명해진다. 그런 면에서 김기덕의 영화는 개인의 경험을 통해 사회의 요소들을 알레고리화 하는 대표적 예라 할 수 있다. 김기덕의 <나쁜 남자>를 중심으로, 본고는 90년대 한국의 환상적인 영화들이 사회의 모방을 통해 심미적인 환상성을 구축하는 과정을 분석한다.

• 비교문화연구
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• 제43권
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• pp.377-404
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• 2016

본 논문에서 필자는 1993년 출판된 애나 디비어 스미스의 "거울 속에 반영된 분노"에서 기술된 인종간의 긴장과 갈등을 분석하려고 한다. 이 책은 1991년 뉴욕에서 발생했던 유대인과 흑인간의 충돌을 주요한 소재로 다루고 있는데, 이 사건은 이미 일인극의 형식과 텔레비전 연극시리즈로 방영된 적이 있다. 필자는 스미스의 인터뷰에 응한 많은 인물들이 여전히 홀로코스트와 노예제도의 담론이 지니고 있는 논리를 반복하고 있다는 점에 주목한다. 뉴욕의 크라운 하이츠에서 흑인 공동체와 유대인 공동체는 끔찍한 상실감을 공유하고 있지만 서로의 고통을 이해하려고 하기보다는 자신이 속한 문화, 인종의 집단정체성을 고집한다. 그들의 서사는 자신이 속한 집단이 과거에 경험한 역사적 사건에 수사학적으로 매여 있는 것이다. 필자는 스미스가 "거울 속에 반영된 분노"에서 자기 모순적인 독백들을 병치시킴으로써 노예제도와 홀로코스트 같은 담론들이 여전히 인종적, 민족적 공동체를 지배하고 있다는 사실을 제시한다고 생각한다. 필자의 의도는 유대인 공동체와 흑인 공동체간의 갈등만을 전적으로 조사하는데 있지 않다. 대신, 필자는 유대인 홀로코스트와 흑인 노예경험을 포함한 '홀로코스트 수사학'이 내포하고 있는 비평적, 이론적 담론들의 문제점을 분석하고 그 한계를 극복하려고 한다. 이러한 이해는 '홀로코스트 수사학'이 실패하는 지점을 드러내며 그것이 감추고 있는 폭력성을 제시할 뿐만 아니라 홀로코스트와 노예제도의 경험을 올바로 파악하기 위해서 그들과의 관계를 새롭게 형성하는 것이다. "거울 속에 반영된 분노"는 독자에게 자신의 맹목을 너무 쉽게 노출하는 '홀로코스트' 담론의 자기 모순적인 방식을 거울처럼 비춘다. 독자는 이와 같은 서사의 틈 속에서 과거의 상처가 치유되고 새로운 서사가 창출될 수 있는 가능성을 목격하게 된다.

• 한국연극학
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• 제48호
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• pp.289-332
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• 2012

In this paper, based on the theory of performance studies and community-based theatre, I venture to explicate the socio-political significance of director Yim Jin-Taek's community-based performance called 'madanggut', which is heavily based on elements of indigenous culture. Yim's madanggut utilizes elements of indigenous cultures and searches for 'the Korean ethnic (arche)type' as 'the ideal Korean type' or 'genuine Korean-ness' for the reconstruction of 'the Korean ethnic community.' This paper interrogates the major task of Yim Jin-Taek's madanggut, which ideologically promulgates the idea of ethnocentric patriarchy supported by the traditional (mainly Confucianist) notion of 'community' - inquiring if this type of theatre can provide useful and practical prospects for imagining a more democratic and plural civilian society in Korea today, when the interaction of globalization, nationalism, regionalism, and localism simultaneously impact our everyday life and cultural identification. Regarding the recent global phenomenon of the resurgence of nationalism, I looked at madanggut's use of symbolic resources from the past for imaginative communal bonding as a nation. But, the claimed homogeneity of the national past by means of 'nation conflation' of different social groups is an illusionary conceptualization, and the national historiography silences memories of the marginalized groups and denies their histories. It is certain that in Korea nationalism has historically performed an important function during the colonization and democratization period. Nevertheless, as Yim's Nokdukkot realized, it cannot be overlooked that as a representative of 'the Korean ethnic community,' 'the protecting man/the sacrificial woman' is contradictory to the plural and lateral thinking of participatory democracy in community-building. It is time to think about a new political language that relates individuals to the community and nation. 'The ethnic type' cannot represent the whole nation and the members of the nation should be the examples of the community they belong to for a more democratic society. I have selected Yim's several community-based works mainly from the 1970s to the 1980s since the works provide grounding images, symbols, metaphors, and allegories pertinent to discussing how 'the Korean ethnic community' has been narrativized through the performances of madanggut during the turbulent epoch of globalization. I hope that this paper presents Yim's grounded aesthetics of community-based theatre with fully contoured critical views and ideas.