• 패션비즈니스
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• 제24권5호
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• pp.35-51
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• 2020

To satisfy consumers' desire to enjoy their own individuality and cultural trends, the discovery of various materials and the expression of materials embodying their characteristics are increasingly important in the fashion jewelry industry. This study examines, paper mulberry fiber, a raw material of hanji that has been excavated as a new material for fashion jewelry, is durable as wall as, soft and easy to form, has a unique texture along with, excellent aesthetic quality, and expresses various colors, thereby differentiating itself from traditional fashion jewelry materials. The material itself also has symbolic significance as an approach to discovering new sustainable materials for fashion jewelry to ensure increased specificity of the product based on the premise of freedom of expression. The weight and optimal drying time of chicken fiber were derived for the study of fashion jewelry expression using the characteristics of paper mulberry fiber. The techniques of casting, deflection, packing and winding (winding beads with fibers and straps) were derived and four brooches were produced in total. This study is meaningful for the future of, the fashion jewelry industry as it presents the uses of new materials such as paper mulberry fiber to induce multidisciplinary consumption and to suggest a direction for the creation of new value-added products. Further, in order to expand the realm of fashion jewelry industry with our own competitive products that have secured our cultural identity and uniqueness in the global market, there must be continued follow-up research on mass production methods for industrialization.

• 복식
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• 제67권3호
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• pp.99-114
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• 2017

The uniqueness of Bali is inseparable from its culture and religion. Embedded in the cultural environment, textiles become one of the most important aspects in Balinese life as it is used as a medium in sacred ceremonies. Balinese textiles are made and used under special conditions according to Hindu teaching. This paper aims to observe the aesthetics of Balinese sacred cloths that are seen in their techniques, colors, and patterns. Quantitative research included in this study is based on 261 images taken from literature review and Museums. Field research was done in eastern part of Bali. This paper has divided the era between ancient and modern times. The ancient era before the 20th century used textiles for religious purposes. Modern era started from the colonialization period by the Dutch in Bali during 1910-1942 added economic values to the textiles. The independence of Indonesia in 1945 created Balinese textiles as a unifying value as one of the identity of Indonesia. The techniques are classified as Weft Ikat, Double Ikat, weave with Supplementary Weft, and Prada. The colors of the ancient era are 'fixed' with the restriction of the colors red, black, and white. The colors of modern era are 'festive' with combination of yellow, green, blue, and purple. The characteristics of patterns are geometric, natural, human, and animal groups. Field research in this paper observes Klungkung Village that produces Endek and Songket cloths. The aesthetics of Endek cloth is 'royal statement' and Songket cloth is a 'cultural heritage.' Nusa Penida Island produces Cepuk cloths and is a 'protective guardian.' Satria sub-district produces Prada cloths and appears to be an 'opulence charm.' Lastly, Tenganan Village produces Geringsing cloth which possesses a 'legendary legacy.' To sum up, Balinese sacred cloth essence is a balance of tradition and modern.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.722-734
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• 2008

This study focuses on the trend of modern society that places importance on health and happiness. By using gilsang (signs that brings good fortunes) patterns that wishes for fortune and health, the objective of this study is to design a distinct but universal fashion good that is unique to Korea and is used not only as a piece of artwork, but as part of development of new and assorted cultural products that is competitive in the international society. This study was conducted first by studying related documents for the theoretical background. In addition, in order to satisfy consumer demands, a jacquard that can procure international competitiveness was designed and fashion goods fitting to this was planned. Through this, the various possibilities of using the jacquard designs were suggested. The development process of fashion goods using jacquard was divided into 10 stages: theme setting, gilsang pattern setting, sketching, textile plan, design organization, input, simulation process, perforation and sewing, selection of design for the fashion good and goods production. Fashion materials are a very important element in creating variations and uniqueness in the fashion industry. Development of new materials has made the aesthetic and ornamental elements, together with the practical and functional aspects of textiles possible. A major issue today is rising out of the past mass production method of OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturing), and developing various artistic patterns that can be used in mass-produced products and assorted production in small quantities in order to develop specialized fashion goods.

• 복식
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• 제62권4호
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• pp.81-90
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• 2012

The contents of this study are as follows. First, an academic understanding has been achieved by exploring the theoretical concept "allegory", and a new theoretical approached methodology has been sought. Second, an analysis-index of fashion illustration cases has been suggested based on the allegory theory of Craig Owens. Third, in order to draw the characteristics of fashion illustration as viewed from the allegorical viewpoint and find out its feasibility, the case studies has been referred and the internal significance, external significance that combines different characteristics has been extracted. In regards to this study method, literature studies and case studies has been done in parallel with each other. This study was done in the following sequence: the establishment of the study system, the drawing of the allegory-associated concepts and the discovering the characteristics of aesthetic expressions. The results of this study on the expression characteristics of fashion illustration as viewed from the allegorical viewpoint of Craig Owens are as follows. First, the borrowing of image, which is a characteristic of allegory, contains the meaning of uncertainty in the fashion illustration as it expresses the image-synthesis and forms a completely different meaning as the fixed meaning is dissolved and it is utilized as a photo-montage technique. Second, the inference of pictogram is the mixture of linguistic medium and visual medium. Fashion illustration utilizes the characters and transmits the fashion information visually and immanently. It has the characteristic of making the information into pictograms and the internal significances of mutual-text with communication function. Third, the uniqueness of location in the fashion illustration has the special nature of utilized mediums as it is used for advertising or publicizing. The fashion illustration from the viewpoint of allegory has the impermanency of existing only for a limited time and reflects the coincidence that gives the meaning of utilized location according to the season trend. Fourth, the cross-breeding is expressed as the mixture of various materials in the fashion illustration. The expressions made by the mixture of media, such as the use of computer graphic programs mixed together with various materials showed the trend of diversity and genre dissolution.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.51-60
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• 2018

This research focuses on the development of upcycled denim fashion designs, whichis a more specific category within general upcycled fashion design. Characteristics of upcycled fashion design, which has been identified previously by researchers, include the following traits: environmentality, uniqueness, aesthetic appeal, availability, convertibility, and deconstructivity. The expression principles include recycling, substitution, recombination, and reduction. The result of the analysis of the denim fashion design characteristics, which is based on the theoretical analysis, has found. The external expression pattern consists of the deconstruction and reconstitution of materials, the avant-garde style and convertibility, the ability to mix and match materials and techniques, the production of zero waste, and the use of layering. The expression techniques used included decomposition, depaysement, weaving, cut-off, collage, assemblage, overlapping, connecting, attaching, and stitching. The inner meanings were identified as economicality through recycling, convertibility through rearranging, and the rarity and value of hand-made products. The result of the research applying the identified characteristics are as follows. First, developing and creating designs using modified denim and sub-materials with various expression patterns and techniques could provide completely new images unlike existing denim products. Second, modifying the details while maintaining the basic format of denim clothing could provide unique and new possibilities for upcycled denim fashion design. Third, environment-friendly models with creative designs were developed by recycling used denim materials. This reduced waste and energy while maximizing the use of resources. This study expects contribute to upcycled fashion design research by recognizing the unique characteristics and value of denim material.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.183-197
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to compare the purchase intention on naturally dyed clothing between Korea and the US. As independent variables that affect the purchase intention, benefits that consumers seek when purchasing naturally dyed clothing, especially for fabric materials, and attitudes towards naturally dyed clothing were selected. A quantitative research method with a survey was employed. 160 data from Korea and 180 data from the US were used for the analysis. The convenience sampling method (i.e., college female students) was used. Descriptive statistics, factor analysis, t-test and regression analysis were employed to test the differences in purchase intention, fabric benefit sought, and the attitudes. The fabric benefit sought selected for this study includes eco-friendliness, uniqueness, aesthetic, comfort and quality. The attitude toward naturally dyed clothing was categorized as an emotional and a cognitive attitude. The results show the significant differences in the fabric benefit sought depending on nationality, major and experiences in natural dyeing. Significant differences were found in of the attitude toward naturally dyed clothing among the nationalities and the experience types in natural dyeing. In addition, there were significant differences in purchase intention toward naturally dyed clothing between Korean and the US participants, and countries show different fabric benefits and attitudes which influenced participants' purchase intention. The results of this study suggest an appropriate fabric planning for environment-friendly fashion products for both countries.

• 복식
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• 제60권9호
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• pp.1-15
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• 2010

Fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier incorporated his own boundless and unique artistic Into his design of dance costumes, presenting an unobstructed imaginary world that was filled with freedom, which is no less than one would expect from the one-time enfant t${\'{e}}$rrible of Paris fashion. This creativity of Gaultier was made possible only through the fantastic partnership he formed with the French modern dancer, R${\'{e}}$gine Chopinot. Gaultier and Chopinot shared a deep-rooted sympathy that enabled their own artistic worlds to fully mingle and cross over, resulting in a doubled synergy of their talent and their fame. This study analyzed 11 dancing costumes created through the collaborated efforts of those two enfants t${\'{e}}$rribles, one from the fashion industry and the other from the world of dance. The following are the results of my analysis. Gaultier's dance costumes served as a artistic venue for experimenting with a number of creative inspirations lurking in his mind, which were sometimes expressed in pr${\^{e}}$t-${\`{a}}$-porter collections. Instead of the decorative and expressive features of conventional dance costumes, his was the revival of the dancer's persona as a human being, ablaze with individuality and uniqueness. He pointed out that there is no good in the distorted turturro's fixed point of view, and the great joy of an opposing way of thinking that overturned the established. Leotard material was used as a second skin by transforming it into various styles and delivering his message. In addition, obscene and sexual expressions were delivered in a direct narrative. His eccentric ideas provided entertainment while showing his oppositional way of thinking. In the dance, the effect of the costumes was doubled by the use of cumbersome and exaggerated accessories, which is generally forbidden in modern dance.

• 한국조경학회지
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.109-121
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• 1985

A study on the image identification of urban streetscape is valuable for illuminating identity that is not yet fully approached in the field of environmental design. This analysis of urban streetscape for image identification allows us to make a more detailed exploration of an important approaching methods in dealing with the structural characteristics of identity. As a matter of fact, the earlier indirect studies on this image identification were made by environmental designers, such as architectural and urban designer in the field of environmental perception and came to its environmental cognition & environmental pattern research with assistances by such researchers as K. Lynch A. Rapoport & Christopher Alexander. Through its environmental perception research, we can see its structural characteristics that is aesthetic & visual structural contents of physical environmental elements. And we can see its cognitive characteristics through the environmental cognitive research, that is continuity, territoriality, identity of place, uniqueness or individuality, meaning & symbolism. Through its environmental pattern research, we can see its physical, socio - economic, cultural and symbolic pattern identification contents, that is physical form of the city, style of the street, pattern of streetscape, socio- economic & geographical locality, arid life cycle, life style, common style of the behavior, cultural pattern of the activity, socio - cultural expression of the symbol. In these process, we can set up a set of the environmental design criterias from those three integral studies for identity. And for an environmental research, Tongsung-Ro around the CBD (central business district) in Taegu City was selected for a case study, because this streetscape is suitable for that approaching methods in this study.

• 비교문화연구
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• 제39권
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• pp.287-308
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• 2015

Biographical film is a genre narrativizing the actual person and history, and reproducing the character and history in a biographical film is in a dimension different from a film focused on a fiction. Discussion between these methods of narrative composition and image reproduction in a biographical film is also, in line with artistic/aesthetic problems and ethical/philosophical theses of the film text. This study discusses the phase of the way of reproduction of the actual person, $Xi{\bar{a}}o$ $H{\acute{o}}ng$ in the biographical film, The Golden Era and the time she lived in a biographical film and how the audience's discussion of the film and socio-cultural discourse differ depending on their attitude towards the cinematic introspection of the text. The narrative structure, the method of image reproduction and cinematic devices of the film, The Golden Era are completely off the point of the general format of the traditional biographical film. In The Golden Era, $Xi{\bar{a}}o$ $H{\acute{o}}ng$ and the history which she lived in did not revive depending on an omniscient subject's selective statement and meta-film structure. Ann Hui removed general, mythic images of $Xi{\bar{a}}o$ $H{\acute{o}}ng$ formed in the field of traditional Chinese culture and reproduced her through multilateral visions of a real, fictional narrator. Each spectator's judgment and interpretation of the film intervene in the multi-layered and sparse descriptions of the actual person's images and the era of the characters. Through this, it is possible to approach the uniqueness and authenticity a historical character, $Xi{\bar{a}}o$ $H{\acute{o}}ng$ and to have an opportunity of multi-layered reflection on how to secure a critical distance and make a perception in historical judgment.

• 디지털융복합연구
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.339-345
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• 2019

본 연구는 젊은 세대들이 한복에 관심을 가지고 직접 경험을 하는 한복체험이라는 새로운 문화의 사용자 경험에 대한 연구로 존 듀이(John Dewey)의 경험이론과 도널드 노먼(Donald Norman)이 정의한 사용자경험을 통해 경험의 정의를 살피고 사용자의 경험을 분석하는데 목적을 둔다. 우선적으로 인구 통계학적 특성을 알아보기 위해 일반인을 대상으로 온라인 설문조사를 진행하였고 설문 결과에 따라 주요 체험자인 20대 여성 6명을 임의로 선정하여 다양한 사용자 의견을 얻기 위해 대면 인터뷰를 진행하였다. 인터뷰 결과의 공통된 의견을 분류하였을 때 체험자들은 한복의 전통성을 인지하기 보다는 현대화된 한복의 심미성을 먼저 인지하였고 한복체험이라는 경험을 함께 공유하고자 하는 욕구로 사회성, 비일상적인 문화가 되어 버린 한복을 특별하다 인지하는 특이성과 같은 특징이 분석되었다. 또한 사용자들은 자신이 직접 겪은 경험을 특별하다 인지하기 때문에 시장성 있는 문화콘텐츠 개발을 위해서는 지속적으로 사용자들의 욕구를 분석하고 연구해야 할 것이다.