This study examined how Chipogwan[緇布冠] with such a long history has been changed in China and Korea. With regard to the name, material, use and form of Chipogwan, the results of this study is summarized as follows. Chipogwan was mentioned continuously in ancient books of ceremonies and literature from the Tang dynasty [唐代], but from the Song dynasty [宋代] new name Chigwan [緇冠: a black hat] appeared besides Chipogwan. The two names were transmitted to Joseon dynasty [朝鮮] and used together until the mid Joseon dynasty, but from the 18th-19th centuries, Chipogwan was adopted according to ancient ceremonies and this name has been used continuously until today. The change of the name reflects the change of the material. Ancient Chipogwan was made of hemp [布] but when the term Chigwan appeared in the Song dynasty it was made of paper and Sa [紗: a 2-end simple gauze]. As other materials were added to hemp, po (布) was omitted from Chipogwan. As to the use of Chipogwan, it was a coronet used in purification ceremonies [齋冠] in ancient times. Then, it was used as Chogagwan [初加冠: a first hat putting on] in coming-of-age ceremonies [冠禮] from Zhou dynasty (周). During the Song and Joseon dynasty, Chipogwan was used in coming-of-age ceremonies as well as in daily life. As to the form, Chipogwan in ancient books of rites and the Song dynasty was a small coronet covering the topknot. In the Joseon dynasty, the form of Song dynasty was followed until the mid period, and then after the mid $18^{th}$ century, another form was proposed according ancient books of rites and an independent form of ceremonial coronet appeared that covered the entire head rather than covering only the topknot.
Objectives : Actually Wongi did not exist in "Neijing(內經)" as a word. Wongi is one of specific features that distinguish "Nanjing" from "Neijing". I have researched for the foundation of history and thought. Methods : I have looked into cognitive variation for Heaven (天), that is from Chinese ancient times through the period of the Han (漢) Dynasty. Results : 1. Before the period of the Yin (殷) Dynasty : There was some worship. 2. The period of the Yin Dynasty : The Lord (上帝) was respected and idolized. 3. The period of the Zhou (周) Dynasty : That the origin of existence is also in human was recognized through Doctrine of Heaven (天命思想). 4. The period of the Han Dynasty : Doctrine of Heaven was transfigured as ideological instrument for politics. The spiritual and physical human's independence was flowed into even though it was not separated from Heaven. Conclusions : As concerned above, the variation shows that consideration for the origin of existence flowed from the outside of human being, like the progenitor of human race, nature, and Heaven, through inside gradually. In the other words, the origin of existence was come to inquire inside of human being. As an aspect of medical science, it can be showed that the term of Wongi was influenced of these process.
This study aims to investigate the role and function of costume in the ancient society by analyzing the jade decorations, 'Gui', 'Bi', and 'Hwang,' recorded in "Zhouli". The method of study consisted of researching the record book "Zhouli" and comparing the antiquities with the images of the jades. Firstly, the jade decorations were different depending on class. The class system in Zhou dynasty was made up of 6 grades - emperor, duke, marquis, count, viscount, and baron. The jade decorations used by people in these grades were called 'Gui', 'Bi', and 'Hwang'. Secondly, this study grasped the system of 'Gui', 'Bi', and 'Hwang.' It identified 7 types of duties by matching the decorations on the jade to specific institutions. 'Gui', 'Bi', and 'Hwang' played a huge role in forming and maintaining to order and system during the chaotic Zhou dynasty. In addition, it became an essential part of understanding status, society, and political structure within a family power structure.
We have known that $\ll$Zhen Jiu Da Cheng, 鍼灸大成$\gg$ had been written by Yang Ji Zhou(楊繼洲) in Ming(明) dynasty. And it had been the only textbook of acupuncture & moxibustion for over 300years. This book is composed of 10 chapters dealing almost all the medical theories of that times. This book is so enormous that it is hard to understand essential ideas of the author. But, Yang Ji Zhou revealed his ideas and medical theories in some parts of this book. This part is named that composed of 4 small subjects. These are , , and In this study, I analyze the relation of $\ll$Zhen Jiu Da Cheng, 鍼灸大成$\gg$ and $\ll$Wei Sheng Zhen Jiu Xuan Ji Bi Yao, 衛生鍼灸玄機秘要$\gg$ and then I study further by comparing with other parts of $\ll$Zhen Jiu Da Cheng, 鍼灸大成$\gg$ and other important oriental medical textbooks.
Journal of the Korean Institute of Educational Facilities
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v.18
no.6
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pp.33-43
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2011
The Korean academics of classical learning, Seowon which from the middle of Joseon Dynasty was complexly reflected in "the illustration of Taiji(太極圖說)" Five-Elements school(陰陽五行說), "Zhou Yi(周易)" and a theory on spherical heaven and square ground(天圓地方) which based on orientalism. Also the theory of Xiangshu Xue(象數學) was a significant factor to decide the size(number of facade module) of Seowon architecture. So, in this study, how the oriental thought was adopted and reflected in existing 21 Seowon in South Korea. The size of Seowon architecture was adopted a theory of combination with heaven, earth and human(天地人三合論) that based on the theory of Xiangshu Xue on "the illustration of Taiji" and "Zhou Yi". "Zhou Yi" was the central thought of Confucian culture in Joseon Dynasty, with which Seowon space was divided into two, ancestral rites space and lecture space. It coincides with balance of yin(陰) and yang(陽), Five-Elements(五行) and four seasons(四季節). In lecture space, lecture hall is relevant with the water(水) and winter, and front tower structure or outer three-door is the fire(火) and summer. Also, central garden means the soil(土) and center. Thus, the size and spatial composition was planned with the philosophy, "the illustration of Taiji", Five-Elements school and a theory on spherical heaven and square ground. Yin and yang has an idea of the heaven and earth, and Five-Elements has an idea of direction and season with which spatial composition of Seowon could be set. And the numeral meaning on the theory of Xiangshu Xue established an ideal background for spatial composition of Seowon architecture.
Journal of Physiology & Pathology in Korean Medicine
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v.22
no.6
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pp.1347-1353
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2008
Pulse condition is the essential division for conducting pulse diagnosis which is one of the most fundamental and important diagnostics in traditional Korean/Chinese medicine. We studied the pulse condition referred to classics of traditional medicine for a full understanding in present time and come to a conclusion like below. The reference to pulse condition was concluded to 'twenty four pulse conditions' which is the fundamental conception generally accepted in present age since it had first mentioned in "Huangdi Neijing" and after it had passed through "Nanjing", "pulse pattern identification-chapter of normal pulse"of Zhang Zhongjing and reached "Maijing"of Wang Shuhe. Although medical partitioners had different views to some extent about pulse condition, there were no significant differences in the main theoretical frame. Even though there had been a diversity of opinions on the classification of pulse-condition between various medical practitioners, the method of Dae-dae and the method of systematic endeavored by Zhou Xueting and Zhou Xuehai who were medical scholars in the Ch'ing dynasty have been a criterion for the classification of pulse-condition up to date. We were able to recognize that the change of pulse condition caused by pathological situation should be compared to physiological pulse condition for detecting the deficiency and excess by researching the analyzing methods of pulse condition mentioned in the "Lingshu", and the book of Hua Shou and Zhou Xuehai). To sum up, first normal pulse which is the physiological pulse condition should be a standard for detecting physiological pulse condition. Secondly, Zhou Xueting insisted that relaxed pulse should be a standard pulse condition for detecting normal pulse.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.26
no.1
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pp.17-31
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2024
The purpose of this study is to propose a modern use of traditional culture by developing creative fashion designs that combine modern and traditional styles based on an analysis of traditional costumes of women in the Tang Dynasty of China. The characteristics of the Tang Dynasty women's costume are as follows. The Tang Dynasty women's costume consists of a short coat (衫, Shan), skirt (裙, Qun), half-arm shawl (半臂, Banbi), and short embroidered cape (帔, Pei). The colors are succinct and elegant, commonly red, yellow, green and navy blue in its entirety. It may be classified by pattern that blend plant patterns, animal patterns, geometric patterns, and two or more mixed patterns. On the basis of the characteristics for traditional women's costume during the Tang Dynasty, the CLO 3D program is employed to develop digital fashion design for four pairs of 3D digital clothing and the production of two pairs of work product. The results are as follows. First, the development of fashion design reflecting the design characteristics of traditional women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty of China could be expressed as fashion design reflecting unique values while connecting tradition and modernity. Second, the 3D virtual clothing program displays an extremely important effect in design deployment and pattern arrangement by having efficiency and convenience in clothing production. The CLO 3D program is closely combined with the 2D design and 3D effect and heightened efficiency while being appropriate to realize sustainability while saving processing time and energy for the sample products. Third, the production of an actual product by facilitating the 3D virtual clothing design may lead to time savings and an effective economy and may allow for the comparison of digital fashion design and actual products as well as confirming the effects of digital fashion design.
Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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v.52
no.4
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pp.120-136
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2024
Yeong-dae(靈臺), Yeong-yu(靈囿), and Yeong-so(靈沼) - so-called 'Yeong-dae Garden' – appear in the poem 'Dae-ah(大雅)․Yeong-dae(靈臺)' in Shijing(詩經) which is considered the record of the earliest garden in East Asia, in the chapter 'Yanghyewang(梁惠王)' of Mencius(孟子). Focusing on those records, this research clarifies their characteristics and discusses the aspects related to garden practices in the Joseon Dynasty. The Yeong-dae Garden is the garden of King Wen of the Zhou Dynasty, who is considered a sage of Confucianism. It is considered to be the first imperial garden in China, and the basic form of all gardens consists of mountains and water. The characteristics of Yeong-dae Garden can be specified through the texts of Shijing and Mencius, the comments written by Zhu Xi and others, and later literature, such as Sambohwangdo. The characteristics of Yeong-dae Garden are as follows: In terms of form, the three spatial elements corresponding to raised ground, a wide area for raising animals, and a pond with fish form a simple arrangement; in terms of function, it combines observation and rest; and in terms of symbolism, it signifies the companionship of the public sentiment and the leader's sincerity. In literature from the Joseon Dynasty, Yeong-dae Garden mainly appear in historical materials related to the King, and its meaning shows an aspect of differentiation into two functions: an observatory for astronomical observation and a garden for rest and appreciation. For the intellectuals of Joseon who sought to restore an ancient ideal state like the Zhou Dynasty through Zhu Xi's Neo-Confucianism, the Yeong-dae Garden served as a control device to warn against royal garden's practices and a symbolic mechanism to expand its meaning of existence to good politics.
Until recently, academic consensus held that Zhou Dunyi's Taijitu (Taiji Diagram) originated from Cantongqi. However, a new debate has arisen wherein some scholars question that theory and related theories. They criticize these previous theories because the books and charts used as evidence in those theories were published after the lifetime of Zhou Dunyi, and this disqualifies their influence on his thought. However, identifying certain authors as being of a slightly later period than Zhou Dunyi does not definitively answer whether or not Zhou Dunyi's diagram was based on Cantongqi. I approached this problem from a different perspective. Zhou Dunyi's Taijitu is based on the system of taiji (Taiyi), yin-yang, and the five movements. Consequently, the formation of this system should be traced back historically. In the process of tracing it back, I intended to explain that the main character of Cantongqi is closely related to the formation of the system of taiji (Taiyi), yin-yang, and the five movements. The system of taiji (Taiyi), yin-yang, and the five movements was first established as a religious theological system in the Han Dynasty. In this process, yin-yang and the five movements were combined by Dong Zhongshu, and the five movements were introduced by Han Dynasty scholars as a method of interpreting the I-ching. However, Han Dynasty scholars did not form this system. In the late Han Dynasty, Cantongqi adopted the theological system of yin-yang and the five movements to theoretically form the system of taiji (Taiyi), yin-yang, and the five movements. Cantongqi was able to form this system because of the logic that yin-yang is the essence of the I-ching. Cantongqi does not have the same schematic as Taijitu. However, the system of taiji (Taiyi), yin-yang, and the five movements appears and extracts the components that make up Taijitu. Therefore, I do not think we should hastily agree with the recent claims made by scholars.
This study is historical research on the relationship between the Changes of the Form of costume and the recognition of the beauty of the body from prehistorical period to Ch'ing Dynasty in Chinese female costume. In figure painting a significant point was to describe the spirit of the figure so Chinese painters were less interested in ideal body pro-portion or body shape than Westerns. But idealized beauty of the female body existed and changed keeping abreast with the form of costume in each period. In the prehistorical period Wemen fasten waist belt so enabled to distinguish upper part of the body from lower one. "Locust-forehead moth-eyebrows(蝗首蛾毛)" recorded in "the Book of odes(詩經)" was the canon of beaty and Wemen tried to make their forehead broad and square from Zhou Dynasty to the Wei Jin periods. From the age of Civil War to han Dynasty Slender waist was loved so waist was tightly fastened and hemline became broader. in the course of that time Plump body in big cloth with broad sleeve emerged but that was less significant than Tang Dynasty. During Wei Jin and the Southern/Northern Dynasty undergo disruption and division they admired Taoist images. Loose fitting style with handkerchief hemline and broad sash belt was prevailed while miserable life was reflected gaunt face and lean body. Suk Dynasty also preferred a slim and long body silhouette. The style was presented extremely high waist line long and narrow sleeve slim and long skirt which expressed dynamic and straight image. The culture of Tang Dynasty was open and diverse and that character enabled blod decolletate revealing body line by tight fitting and special make-up-Social background of uion and stabilization made female body extremely plump full face. full breast and hips with most erotic image. The period of Kaiyuan Tianbao fashioned mannish disguise presented androgynous image. Five Dynasty and Song Dynasty restored standard body type so upper garments concealed neck and bust high waist line lowered which represented refined and simple outfit. But another eroticism emerged as foot-binding in Song Dynasty. For the sake of covering up deformed top of the feet and ankle gaiters and arrow shaped shoes were devised. During Ming Ch'ing Dynasties body shape became more slim weak and young causing to escort instinct that reflects 'Lust' or 'Mundanity'.
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