• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.21 no.1
• /
• pp.1-16
• /
• 2013

This study analyzed the characteristics of Korean traditional plain weave excavated from Sang-go period to Joseon Dynasty. To do this, this study classified the Korean traditional plain weave into fiber types(cotton, hemp & ramie, plain weaved silk), analyzed and compared the thickness, twist type of yarns and density by times. First, in characteristics of cotton, the average and maximum density of Joseon Dynasty were higher than those of Goryeo, twist type was mainly s-twist and the density of warp was higher than that of weft. Second, the maximum density of hemp & ramie was found in era of Three Kingdoms of Korea. In common characteristics of hemp & ramie, twist type was mainly s-twist(sometimes non-twist) to the Three Kingdoms of Korea and was changed into non-twist from the Goryeo. The density of warp was higher than that of weft in common. Generally, the average density of ramie was higher than that of hemp. Third, in the characteristics of plain weaved silk, twist type was mainly non-twist(sometimes s and z-twist) from Sang-go period to Joseon Dynasty. Warp-faced ribbed tabby was excavated in Goryeo, the average density of warp-faced ribbed tabby was higher than that of other fiber types plain weave. Generally, in all fiber types, the density of warp was higher than that of weft.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.5 no.3
• /
• pp.299-303
• /
• 2003

Some of historical textiles were analyzed to identify the imprinted textures on the metal remains of Haengyeup(a horse strap pendant) and Doja (a knife), which were excavated in the ruins of Hwangsung-dong, Kyungju city in the fifth century and textiles imprinted on the human bones that were excavated in the Pungnae 4th Area, Namyangju county in the sixteenth century. The results analyzed arc as follows ; It was confirmed that the imprinted textures of Haengyeup and Doja are white ramie since the structural characteristics of cellulosic bast fibers, partially projected long oval cross sections with large lumens and the imprinted textures of human bones are silk fabrics since the triangular cross sections of fibroin is showed. All of the textiles were designed in plain weaves. In the case of weaving yarns, the warp threads were thicker than the weft threads, that is, the imprinted textures of Haengyeup were measured by 1.35 mm for warp and 1.21 mm for weft, and the Doja by 1.16mm for warp and 1.11 mm for weft. In connection with the direction of the yarn twist, the Z-twist were observed in the imprinted textures of human bones, whereas it presented the S-twist in the case of Haengyeup and Doja. The warp yarns were mostly harder twisted than the weft yarns on the amounts of twist, that is, it was observed that the case of Haengyeup were amounted to 0.33 twists per centimeter for warp yarns and 0.25 twists per centimeter for weft yarns. Also it was showed 0.32 twists per centimeter for warp yarns and 0.26 twists per centimeter in the case of the textures of human bones. On the fabric counts, it was showed that the finer the yarns the higher the densities since it were $4.3{\times}5.1$ threads per sqaure centimeters and $7.6{\times}7.1$ threads per sqaure centimeters each in the case of Haengyeup and Doja, whereas it was $18.2{\times}33.7$ threads per sqaure centimeters in the case of the textures of human bones.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
• /
• v.51 no.4
• /
• pp.84-107
• /
• 2018

Cheommojik is a pile cloth, a type of textile whose surface is covered with short piles. The term chaedam was used during the late Joseon dynasty to refer to pile cloth rugs, while the terms yoongjeon, dantong and yangtanja were used in the early twentieth century. Various documents, newspaper articles and photographs confirm that pile cloth rugs were used by the general public as well as the royal family from the late Joseon dynasty onward, and that there were domestic manufacturers of such rugs at that time. This study investigated six pile cloth rugs that were produced after the late Joseon dynasty, five of which feature Persian knots made of cut pile, the other being made with the loop pile method. The cut pile rugs are rectangular in shape and measure between 72-98cm by 150-156cm; and they are decorated in the middle with patterns of butterfly, deer, and tiger or the ten longevity symbols, and along the edges with patterns composed of 卍 symbols. The ground warp of all six rugs are made from cotton yarn, while the ground weft is made of cotton yarn on three pieces, wool on one piece and cotton and viscose rayon. The ground weft yarn from four pieces are Z-twist yarn made with two or more S-twist cotton yarn. Four to six colors were used for the pile weft, all being natural colors except for red. Two or more S- or Z-twist yarn were twisted together in the opposite twist for the pile weft, with the thickness determining the number of threads used. Six or more weft threads were used to make the start and end points of the rug; and the ground warp ends were arranged by tying every four of them together. For the left and right edges, three or more threads were wrapped together into a round stick-like form, and the second and third inner ground warps from the edges were stitched on to the wrapped edge. For the loop pile, loops were made in the direction of the warp; the ground warp and the ground weft may have been made with cotton, the pile warp with wool yarn. An analysis of the components of three rugs was conducted to determine which types of animal hair were used for the pile weft. Despite some inconclusive results, it was revealed that goat hair and fat-tailed sheep hair were used, raising the possibility that various kinds of animal fur were used in the production of pile cloth rugs. The six rugs examined in this study are estimated to have been made between the late 1800s and the early 1900s. Although the manufacturer of the rugs cannot be confirmed, we concluded that the rugs were produced in Korea after referring to the documentation of the domestic production of pile cloth rugs during the aforementioned period and the form and placements of the patterns on the rugs.