• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.10
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• pp.1467-1477
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• 2002

This study was investigated physical properties of stretch fabrics by KES-FB system to show suitable basic data to making skirts of excellent capacity and develop more organized basic skirt pattern by fitness evaluation. 1. The results of T. H. V.(Total Hand Value) were as followa: In the kind of blending fiber, cotton/spandex was more excellent than nylon/spandex and polyester/spandex, in the direction of stretch, one-way(weft inserted polyurethan yarn) polyester/spandex and cotton/spandex were higher than two-way(warp and wet inserted polyurethan yarn) polyester/spandes and cotton/spandex, two-way nylon/spandex was higher than one-way nylon/spandex. 2. The results of calculating the variance between sample stretch fabrics and Japanese s/s women's suit fabrics after standardizing were as follows: Stretch fabrics has 2 range of tensile, bending, shearing, compression, surface, thickness and weight as compared with Jpanese s/s women's suit fabrics. In the tensile property, one-way stretch fabrics were almost the same with Japanese s/s women's suit fabrics, only two-way polyester/spandex had+1～+2 range. In the bending, shear property, there was no difference between sample fabrics and Japanese s/s women's suit fabrics 3. In the total fitness of the skirt, nylon/spandex is the best in the fabrics and one-way stretch fabric is better than two-way strethch fabric.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.51-57
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• 2002

In the prior study, the mechanical properties and the dyeability of the easily dyeable polyester grim(EDY) were investigated. In this study, to interpret the dyeing behavior of EDY with C. I. Disperse Violet 1, the thermodynamic parameters of dyeing, such as the standard affinity, the heat of dyeing(the enthalpy change), the entropy change, the diffusion coefficient, and the activation energy of diffusion, were obtained from adsorption isotherms and dyeing rate at various temperatures and compared to these of regular polyester (REG-PET). The heat of dyeing(the enthalpy change) and the entropy change for EDY showed smaller negative values than those for REG-PET. This means that the dye molecules in the EDY are combined more loosely than in the REG-PET and that is due to the flexibility of polymer chains of EDY. The diffusion coefficients of C. I. Disperse Violet 1 into the EDY were larger than those for REG-PET, and the activation energy of diffusion on EDY was smaller than that on REG-PET.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.219-226
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• 2011

Recently, study of functional clothing for vital sensing is focused on improving conductivity and decreasing resistance, in order to enhance the electrocardiogram(ECG) sensing accuracy and obtained stable environmental durability on operation condition. In this study, four ECG fabrics that having different componnt yarns and weaving structures were produced to analyze their environmental durabilities and electric properties under general operation conditions including different physical and chemical stimulation. For outstanding electric properties and physical properties, the optimized ECG sensing fabric should consist of a fabric of 2 up 3 down twill structure containing 210de silver-coated conductive yarns and polyester yarn in warp and weft directions respectively. The selected fabric has $0.11{\Omega}$ which is relative lower resistance than otherwisely produced fabrics under ECG measurement condition. And it has 7% stable resistance changes under 25% strain and repeated strain.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2011.03a
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• pp.96-96
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• 2011

본 연구에서는 스포츠 캐주얼 웨어(스노우보드복, 골프복, 등산복 등)로 사용되는 신축성 소재의 개발로 Stretch성을 부여하기 위하여 Nylon 66 POY 소재의 가연가공 기술을 통하여 Mechanical Stretch 성능이 발현되는 소재를 개발하고자 한다. 섬유소재에 일반적으로 신축성을 부여하기 위해서는 Spandex(Polyurethane, PU)를 방적공정에서 복합 제조하는 Core Yarn과 장섬유에 Spandex를 피복하는 Covering Yarn(직물용) 형태가 있는데, Spandex로 인한 신축성은 200~800% 발현되나 PU를 사용함에 따라서 공정추가에 대한 원가상승, 균제도 불량, 몰림현상 및 PU 수축에 의한 중량감이 있으며, 또한 PU에 의한 견뢰도불량, 피복사의 벗겨짐성 등 외관상 트러블 발생빈도가 높다. 이에 따라 Spandex를 사용하지 않고 단일소재로서 사가공기술에 의해 Stretch성이 부여되는 소재를 개발하고 이의 기술을 상용화 하고자 한다. Nylon 66 POY 소재를 Disc 가연기, Pin 가연기 등의 설비를 이용하여 70d급 원사의 가연가공 공정을 진행하였다. 그리고 개발된 원사의 섬도(d), 강도(g/d), 신도(%), 크림프율(%)의 물성 시험을 통하여 Nylon66의 공정상 변화인자에 따른 기본 물성 및 Stretch 발현성을 분석하여 최적의 설비 및 공정조건을 확립하였다.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.103-110
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• 2000

To examine the physical properties of POY through the microstructure control, the crystal structure such as the crystallinity, the crystallite size, the orientation, the shrinkage, the tensile properties, and the thermal stress of POY(80/48, SD) were examined at different draw ratios and annealing temperatures. From the examination following conclusions were obtained : 1. The crystallinity was more effected by the heat setting temperature than by the draw ratio. The increasing rate was greatest at the heat setting temperature range of $170~190^\circ{C}$. 2. The crystallite size perpendicular to the fiber axis was more effected by the annealing temperature at lower draw ratios. On the other hand, the crystal and amorphous orientations were more effected by the heat setting at higher draw ratios. 3. The boiling shrinkage did not change significantly, but the total shrinkage showed 13% at the draw ratio 1.9 and the heat setting temperature $170^\circ{C}$. 4. The maximum thermal stress increased with increasing the draw ratio and decreasing the heat setting temperature in the temperature range of $170~210^\circ{C}$. At the draw ratio 1.9 and the heat setting temperature $170^\circ{C}$, the maximum thermal stress found was 1.1gf/d. 5. In the heat setting temperature above $170^\circ{C}$ after the drawing, the crystallinity, the crystallite size, the orientation, and the strength increased with increasing temperature, but the shrinkage and the maximum thermal stress decreased with increasing temperature.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.288-297
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• 2019

The specimens were heat treated at 180℃, 190℃, 200℃, 210℃ and 220℃ to observe the change of the physical properties of the double raschel pile fabric. The density, tensile strength, weight, elongation, dyeing characteristics, fabric surface morphology and cross sectional shape were observed by heat treatment temperature. Compared with untreated samples, weight, density and tensile strength were increased with increasing heat treatment temperature. No increase was observed at 220℃. In the case of elongation, it increased to 190℃ but thereafter it could not be observed. In the case of uprightness of brushed hair, it was observed that the gap between the yarns was narrowed and the density was increased and the straightness of the yarn and pile yarn was improved by widening the heat treatment temperature. As a result, it was observed that the uprightness was remarkably improved and the bulky properties was increased. It was also observed that the increase of the dyeability was observed with increasing the heat treatment temperature.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.298-311
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• 2019

In this study, the mechanical properties and hand characteristics of the knitted and woven fabrics for bedding items are investigated in accordance with fabric structural parameters including the fiber type and proportion, the density of the fabric, and the knit/weave structure. The knit stitches and structure of the knit samples made an effect on tensile properties. The bending, shear and compression properties for the knit fabric were mainly affected by fiber contents of the samples. The tensile and bending properties of woven samples were highly correlated with the fabric density, thickness and structure, and those shear and compression properties were affected by the fiber contents and structure. Consequently, the primary hand values of the selected samples we developed were estimated to have good smoothness, fullness and softness, and soft feeling, which is well correlated to the parameters of consumer preference such as softness, warmness, and bulkiness. Also, their total hand values were increased.

• Proceedings of the Korean Operations and Management Science Society Conference
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• 1994.04a
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• pp.653-659
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• 1994

Human experts have the various own knowledges to be applied in specialized domains. The fact that knowledge itself becomes more critical in the context of textile knowledge with rapid development of new fibers, automated equipments, processes and applications. Diversity of worsted spun yarns, lack of human expertise, and inconsistency among manually generated process plans in consequency of adjustment machine parameters owing to change up raw materials frequently increase the necessity of developing computer aided process planning(CAPP) systems for spinning process. Expert systems offer one of techniques to develop CAPP systems which would behave in a knowledgeable manner. Expert systems are the problem-solving computer program that can reach a level of performance comparable to that of a human expert in some specialized problem domain. This paper is described as job justification module. The job justification module performs to consult with users on which worsted spun yarn manufacturing process planning under the various factors, e.g., raw materials, machine parameters and required yarn counts. Also, the developed module informs the various knowledges relevant process planning. The job justification module offers the control parameters at each process and includes the various standard process plans as database. These knowledges are generated by facts and rules within rule bases.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.1-14
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• 2014

Currently smart textile market is rapidly expanding and the demand is increasing integration of an electronic fiber circuit. The garments are an attractive platform for wearable device. This is one of the integration techniques, which consists of is the selective introduction of conductive yarns into the fabric through knitting, weaving or embroidering. The aim of this work is to develop a golf bend driven prototype design for an attachable Arduino that can be used to assess elbow motion. The process begins with the development of a wearable device technique that uses conductive yarn and flex sensor for measurement of elbow bending movements. Also this paper describes and discusses resistance value of zigzag embroidery of the conductive yarns on the tensile properties of the fabrics. Furthermore, by forming a circuit using an Arduino and flex sensor the prototype was created with an assistance band for golf posture training. This study provides valuable information to those interested in the future directions of the smart fashion industry.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.93-105
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• 2018

Using FDM 3D printing, yarn shape and composition were modeled and 3D printed with PLA and TPU filaments currently used for apparel. Based on this, mechanical characteristics were measured to determine 3D printing yarn according to type of filaments in the 3D printed output and deformation and recovery characteristics due to differences in structure type. As a result of examining tensile and shear characteristics of PLA and TPU 3D printing compiles, TPU overall was measured with significantly lower stress than PLA. This is due to high elasticity of TPU's character, revealing that it has better flexibility than PLA. In addition, during deformation due to external forces, the more freedom between the head and foot parts of the loop, and the lower the force associated with each other, the more flexible it is. TPU revealed that it was easier to tension and recovery from tensile deformation than PLA, indicating potential for clothing materials using 3D printing. If high-molecular materials, such as PLA flexibility, it is likely to provide some flexibility through development of styles, including degree of freedom in modeling. Based on this, we provide basic data for developing 3D printing textures that can be satisfied with textile for apparel.