• 복식문화연구
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.241-260
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• 1995

The Maori's traditional clothing materials, basic forms of dress, and the pattern and technique of tatoo were examined in the present study in order to deepen the appreciation of the cultural heritage of the Maori. The research method employed was the analysis of written materials. And a fild-trip was also made for the study. The study was limitted to the traditional culture of body adornment of the Maori including the clothing which is preserved and practicing by them at the present day, and the origin and the process of the historical development of those are not included in the scope of the present study. Followings are the results of the study: (1) By far the most widely used fiber for Maori clothing is abtained from what is commonly called New Zealand Flax. The fiber of kiekie(Freycinetia baueriana) and cabbage trees(Cordyline spp.) may also be used. The strong, long-lasting fiber of toi(cordyline indivisa) is used for a prestige warrior's cloak. Flat strips of ti kauka(Cordyline australi) are also used as thatch on rain cloaks. (2) Regardless of technique used, Maori weaving is always worked horizontally from left to right. Traditionally the work was suspended between two upright turuturu or weaving sticks. As the work progressed a second pair of uprights was used to keep the work off the ground. These uprights were moved forward as required. Because the weaver sat on the ground, the working edge was kept at a height that was comfortable to reach. No weaving tools are used, the wefts(aho) being manipulated by the fingers. The two main Maori weaving techniques are whatu aho patahi(single-pair twining) and whatu aho rua(double-pair twining). (3) The Maori wore two basic garments - a waist met and a cloak. The cloth of commoners were of plain manufacture, while those of people of rank were superior, sometimes being decorated with feather or dyed tags and decorated borders. Children ran more-or-less naked until puberty, being dressed only for special events. Some working dress consisted of nothing more than belts with leaves thrust under them. Chiefs and commoners usually went barefoot, using rough sandals on journeys over rough country (4) The adornment of men and women of rank was an important matter of tribal concern as it was in chiefly persons that prestige of the group was centred, The durable items of Maori persons adornment were either worn or carried. Ornaments of various kinds were draped about the neck or suspended from pierced earlobes. Combs decorated the head. Personal decorations not only enhanced the appearance of men and women, but many had protective magical function. The most evident personal ornament was the hei-tiki made of jade or other material. Maori weapons were treasured by their owners. They served on bottle and were also personal regalia. A man of rank was not fully dressed without a weapon in hand. Also weapons were essential to effective oratory. (5) No man or woman of rank went without some tattoo adornment except in extremely rare instances when a person was too sacred to have any blood shed. The untattooed were marked as beeing commoners of no social standing. This indelible mark of rank was begun, with appropriate rite and ritual, at puberty. And tattoo marked the person as being of a marriageable age. Maori tattoo was unlike most traditional tattoo in that its main line were 'engraved' on the face with deep cuts made by miniature bone chisels. The fill-in areas were not tattooed with cuts but with the multiple pricks of small bone 'combs' that only lightly penetrated the skin surface. The instrument of tattoo consisted of small pots of pumice or wood into which was placed a wetted black pigment made from burnt kauri gum, burnt vegetable caterpillars or other sooty materials. A bird bone chisel or comb set at right angles on a short wooden handle was dipped into the gigment, that a rod or stick was used to tap head of this miniature adze, causing penetration of the skin surface. Black pigment lodged under the skin took on a bluish tinge. A full made facial tattoo consisted of major spirals with smaller spirals on each side of the nose and sweeping curved lines radiating out from between the brows over the forehead and from the nose to the chin. The major patterns were cut deep, while the secondary koru patterns were lightly pricked into the skin.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권12호
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• pp.1883-1896
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• 2009

이 논문은 조선후기 보자기에 적용된 다양한 장식 특성을 연구한 것이다. 보자기는 물건을 싸거나 음식을 덮는 등 일차적으로는 실생활에 활용하기 위한 실용적 목적으로 제작되었지만, 보자기 제작은 전래된 상징적 문양의 표현을 통한 현세적 기원의 행위이기도 했으며, 또한 조선의 엄격한 유교 윤리 하에서 여성의 창작 욕구가 자유롭게 발현된 생활 속 여흥의 일부이기도 했다. 한국의 보자기에는 조각 잇기, 자수, 회염, 인염, 오려내기 세공 등 다양한 장식 기법이 활용되었다. 조각 잇기 기법이 활용된 조각보에서는 조선 여인들의 절약습관이 돋보이는데 이는 특히 자원의 재활용을 중시하는 오늘날의 가치와도 일맥상통하는 바가 있다. 자수가 놓인 수보에서는 상징적 문양의 표현을 통한 여인들의 소박한 바램이 읽혀진다. 한국 보자기는 회염이나 인염으로 장식되기도 했는데, 이들은 한국 복식 유물에서는 보기 어려운 장식 기법들이다. 농담을 조절한 다양한 색채의 당채 기법이나 단일색의 먹물 채색, 여러 종류의 도안이 새겨진 목판을 이용한 인염 기법 등이 이용되었다. 음식물이 묻지 않게 하기 위해 때로는 기름 종이로 보자기를 만들기도 했는데, 이러한 식지보에는 오려내기 세공이 장식 기법으로 활용되었다. 오려내기 기법의 원리는 스텐실 염색과 비슷하여 이를 또한 섬유제품 디자인에 활용할 수도 있다.

• 복식
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• 제31권
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• pp.145-164
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• 1997

Cinema costume can stimulate the public to synchronize with and replicate what they see in the movies. Especially when the public thinks the stars in the movies . Especially when the public thinks the stars in the movies are beautiful or dramatic the styles of cinema costumes powerfully affect them. Thus cinema costume designers quickey become fashion designers. Edith Head who strongly believed cinema costumes to be an effective means of portraying the Character's personality and psychological make-up was an innovative designer whose costumes manifested this belief. She enhanced the character's individual image and distinction for the public through her artistic design in costumes. She adapted a realistic approach but her costumes invariably produced aesthetic ef-fects. Since the Academy Awards added the category of costume design she led the field with 35 nominations and eight oscars during 33 years of her productive work. Edith head was a dominant figure in costume design; her creations were highly renowned as an art form while they gained popularity. The purpose of this study was to reveal the ef-fects of Edith Head's cinema costume designs on fashion. This study was also to emphasize the powerful influence on ashion of cinema costume and cinema costume designers in general. The study was done through literature movies for which she created costumes fashion magazines and Edith Head's original sketches. The influence of Edith Head's costume de-sign on fashion is as follows: 1. She introduced and lead the casual fashion in the 1950's combining simplicity and sophistication. 2. She altered uniforms and reconstructed public clothing for multiple functions. 3. She rearranged high school prom dresses through the movie 'A Place in the Sun" to en-hance characteristic of each gender and the Dandy Look of the 1930's into men's apparel in the 1970's through the movie "The Sting" 4. She expanded the traditional style in the 1940's and became a leader in ecological style. 5. She adapted glitter from astronaut's ap-parel into public clothing. 6. She resturctured Sabrina Pants in the 1960's to accentuate the individuals strength by overcoming one's weakness without minimi-zing it's aesthetic appeal and reintroduced the pants in the 1990's. 7. She introduced elegant negligees to gen-eral public and maintained it in the public do-main. As it is revealed Edith Head's costume de-sign not only impacted the field of fashion dur-ing her time but also is presently influencing modern fashion throughout the world as it is witnessed by repeated reintroduction of her fashion styles. Reviewing her cinema costumes it is concluded that cinema costumes it is concluded that cinema costumes powerfully af-fect the public through a visual channel more than any other routes. Cinema costumes can become the origin of fashion by stimulating the public to synchronize with and replicate what they see in the movies. Since cinema costumes can launch fashion trend it requires further research. Based on what is revealed in this study. it would be beneficial to examine how cinema costumes affect people socially and culturally and how they could provide resources for re-search in fashion trends. It is also the writers opinion that there should be more designers such as Edith head who could lead the field of costume design into the twenty-first century.

• 한국산학기술학회논문지
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• 제16권11호
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• pp.7485-7493
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• 2015

한류의 활성화에 따라 한류 관광객을 위한 문화 상품의 중요성이 부각되고 있다. 그러나 현존하는 상품들은 연예인 캐릭터의 생활용품이 주를 이루고 있으며, 실용성이 가미된 의류제품의 문화상품은 현저히 그 수가 적다. 특히 아동복과 관련된 문화상품은 거의 개발되지 않았으며, 소수의 상품은 기본 티셔츠에 그래픽 또는 전통한복이 주를 이루었다. 이러한 상황에서 중국인들의 소비 패턴과 한류 문화상품을 적용시켜 볼 때, 한류 문화 상품으로써의 아동복이 개발 된다면 한류의 활성화 및 국내 패션시장에도 도움이 될 것으로 사료된다. 이에 본 연구에서는 한류 문화상품으로써의 아동복 디자인을 개발하여 실증적인 연구 결과물을 제시하고자 하며 다음의 연구목적을 수행하고자 한다. 첫째, 한류 문화상품의 개념을 파악하고 이들의 현황을 분석하여 현 시점의 한류 문화상품 개발을 위한 데이터를 구축하고자 함이며 둘째, 디자인 개발을 통한 실물작품을 제작하여 한류 문화 상품 시장에 실증적 자료로 제공하고자 함이다. 연구방법 및 내용으로는 선행연구 리뷰 및 질적 연구를 위한 일대일 심층 면접, 시장조사와 작품 개발의 실증적 연구로 진행하였으며, 최종 연구결과물인 4벌의 작품을 통해 소비자 니즈를 만족할 수 있는 한류 문화상품 아동복을 실증적 자료로 제시하였다. 본 연구는 국내 패션 시장 및 문화상품 시장에 기초자료로 활용될 수 있으며 중국 소비자 니즈 분석을 위한 참고자료로 그 의의가 있다.

• 한국환경보건학회지
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• 제42권6호
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• pp.430-437
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• 2016

Objectives: The new Chemical Control Act from the Korean Ministry of Environment (2014-259) simply states only in basic phrases that every worker handling the listed chemicals should wear personal protective equipment (PPE) and does not consider the different hazard characteristics of particular chemicals or work types. The purpose of this study was to produce an exposure risk matrix and assign PPE to the categories of this matrix, which would be useful for revising the act to suggest PPE to suit work types or situations. Methods: An exposure risk matrix was made using hazard ranks of chemicals and workplace exposure risks in the previous study. For the 20 categories of exposure risk matrix PPE, levels A, B, C, D as classified by OSHA/EPA were assigned. After 69 hazardous chemicals were divided into 11 groups according to their physiochemical characteristics, respirators, chemical protective clothing (CPC), gloves and footwear were suggested on the basis of the assigned PPE levels. Results: PPE table sheets for the 11 groups were made on the basis of work types or situations. Full facepiece or half-mask for level C was recommended in accordance with the exposure risk matrix. Level A was, in particular, recommended for loading or unloading work. Level A PPE should be worn in an emergency involving hydrogen fluoride because of the number of recent related accidents in Korea. Conclusion: PPE assignment according to the exposure risk matrix made by chemical hazards and work type or situation was suggested for the first time. Each type of PPE was recommended for the grouped chemicals. The research will be usefully used for the revision of the Chemical Control Act in Korea.

• 복식
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• 제35권
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• pp.17-44
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• 1997

Medieval European practical art and style of costume is studied through referring to the literatures. The type of clothing that was seen on tapestries arts and crafts paintings and wall paintings and appeared in the architecture such as church. There were symbolic aspects of color motifs at this period and some restraints for clothing according to the social class, It was a period that draped garments due to the War of Crusades is appeared. Be-cause the medieval taste and decorative character is not only 'formative art' but also the taste beyoud 'mode' and atomsphere of that times it could be seen the strong reflec-tion of customs in the clothing of that times which is shown in works of art. 1) The purpose of Christian art which was found in mosaics stained glasses wall pain-tings and statues of architecture was not just the revival of natural phenomena but visuali-zation of sacred and invisible things. It was valuable to understandin of the spiritual through the sense organ It was a monumental art that was combined with decorative func-tion and role of the Bible. It revealed what was about the religious spiritual miracle, 2) In the medieval European painting characteristic and beautiful creativity was the basis of an argument. Both "Worship of East-ern" that is painted ion a parchment and "Cor-onation of Charles VI" were described decor-ation motifs on the edge of buildings geo-metric patterns and others with outstanding skill. there were precise technologic skill of architect and glassmen and lots of patience of craftsmen. " The Labour of the Months" and the scene of"A Trial at the Court" is also de-scribed elaborately. 3) Tapestry was developed in France Ger-many Swiss at the 14th century. Religionary and historical themes unicorn lady bird flowering plants and others were major motifs. It was very important as decorative wall coverings and as practical door arch and bed hangings. It was made through patient hard work with simple technique and it was con-sidered as an art for practical use. Tapestry was what everyone wish to have. It is reckoned for the item of the best gift. The royalty and nobility ordered and used custom-made tapestries. Sometimes the subject of motifs consisted of series which were deeply related to living 4) Decorative arts and crafts was the art that used materials such as precious metals jewels and others and that accorded with the luxurious and gorgeous taste of the royalty and nobility. Christian considered splendid and beautiful color of light as a symbol of glory. They used also for church appliances, There were metal crafts wood crafts textile crafts and others, As was stated above the costume appeared on the arts and crafts for living revealed the process of changes saw how the politic econ-omic and social organizations were developed.and social organizations were developed.

• 마케팅과학연구
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.117-141
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• 2006

최근 우리나라는 주5일 근무제가 확대 실시되면서 여가가 많아지는 한편 각 업종별 소매점포에서의 요일별 매출도 예전과는 다른 양상을 보이고 있다. 특히 이론적으로 설명할 수 없는 요일별 수요 패턴이 체계적이고 지속적으로 나타나는 것을 요일효과라고 하는데, 요일 마케팅 관점에서 볼 때 어느 소매업종에서의 요일효과 존재여부와 그 크기를 체계적으로 파악하는 것은 소매업의 마케팅에 있어 매우 중요하다. 따라서 본 연구는 남성복 소매시장에서도 요일효과가 존재 하는지의 여부와 만일 존재 한다면 각 요일별 그 차이는 어떠한가를 알아보고자 하는 목표로 수행되었다. 그러나 요일효과 등의 이상현상에 관한 마케팅차원의 연구가 전무하여 주로 재무관리 등의 분야에서 이루어진 연구결과를 토대로 본 연구에서는 우선 개별 수요를 변화시키는 일반적 수요이론과 주식시장에서의 요일효과에 관한 선행연구 등을 토대로 이상현상에 대한 이론적 배경을 고찰 하여 소매유통시장에서의 적용가능성을 탐색하였다. 실증분석에 있어서는 국내 남성복 소매업체인 P사의 과거 5년간 매출 자료를 토대로 데이터 정제와 통계처리를 통하여 요일효과를 분석하였다. 연구결과 남성복 소매시장에 있어서도 요일효과는 존재하며, 월요일에서 일요일로 갈수록 양(+)의 요일효가를 보이고 있으며, 또한 요일효과는 계절별로 각각 다르게 나타나는 것으로 파악되었다. 본 연구는 소매업을 경영하는 기업들이 보다 효율적인 소매점포 운영방안을 강구할 수 있는데 유익한 시사점이 제공되리라 기대한다.

• 멤브레인
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• 제33권6호
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• pp.398-408
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• 2023

본 연구는 지카바이러스, 메르스, coronavirus disease-19 (COVID-19) 등의 감염병 방역 및 의료현장에서 사용할 수 있는 의료용 공기정화호흡기(powered air purifying respirators, PAPR)의 항균성 보호복의 후드와 필터를 개발하였다. PAPR은 전동팬 본체 및 필터, 배터리팩, 후드로 구성되며 보호복의 후드 소재는 뛰어난 흡습성, 풍압, 외부충격을 견딜 수 있는 폴리프로필렌 슐폰레이스(spunlace) 부직포 직물(SFS)을 사용하였다. 사용자의 감염위험을 낮추기 위해 후드의 외피에는 피톤치드계 물질을 사용하여 99.9%의 안티-박테리얼(antibacterial) 효과를 얻었으며 내피에는 친수가공을 하여 흡수성을 25% 향상시켰다. 의료용 보호복 후드에 필요한 인공혈액 침투저항성, 건조미생물 침투저항성, 습식세균 침투저항성, 그리고 박테리오파아지 침투저항성을 평가한 결과 2~6 단계의 합격평가를 받았다. 한편, 항균 처리된 슐폰레이스(spunlace filter, SF) 헤파 필터(high efficiency particulate air, HEPA)의 성능을 평가한 결과 우수한 항균성, 분진제거율, 차압 효과를 확인하였다.

• 한국환경보건학회지
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• 제40권6호
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• pp.454-468
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• 2014

Objectives: This study was conducted to investigate the actual condition of the farm work environment and personal protective equipment as part of the effort to improve livestock work for the safety and health of poultry farmers and provide basic data for establishing plans to improve and develop personal protective equipment. Methods: For this purpose, a questionnaire survey on general information about stables, the poultry work environment, accidents, the wearing of work clothes and personal protective equipment, and the level of awareness related to personal protective equipment was conducted among 148 poultry farmers. Results: As a result, it was found that poultry workplace environment was exposed to such risks as fine dusts; organic dusts; poisonous gases; odorous substances; chicken excrement; contact with chickens, bacteria or viruses; and accidents related to machine operation. Thirteen percent of respondents suffered severe respiratory diseases, and the most frequently injured sites due to accidents were the hands (25.7%), knees (23.8%), arms (17.3%), and head (10.9%). The most frequent type of accident was collisions between the body and obstacles or machinery during movement (36.4%), followed by erroneous machine operation such as feeders and electric shocks (8.5%). Regarding the wearing of work clothes and personal protective equipment, 51.7% of the respondents wore worn-out clothing or everyday clothes, whereas only 32.0% wore work clothes. The percentage of farmers who wore proper protective equipment for the work environment during poultry work was 48.4%. The most frequently used type of protective equipment was boots (38.9%), followed by mask (36.7%), gloves (36.3%), appropriate work clothes (22.6%), quarantine clothes (17.6%), helmets (13.4%), and goggles (12.6%). The rate of wearing goggles was low because they were considered inconvenient and lowered work efficiency. Furthermore, they purchased everyday products available on the market for their personal protective equipment which were not appropriate for maintaining safety in an actual harmful environment and its consequent risks. As a result of the survey of the awareness level related to personal protective equipment, their levels of awareness of accidents and attitude proved to be average or higher, but the practice of wearing protective equipment and the level of knowledge and management of personal protective equipment were lower. Conclusion: This survey found that the wearing status of personal protective equipment among poultry farmers was insufficient even though they were exposed to risks. Most respondents were aware of the necessity of wearing personal protective equipment and of the potential for accidents, but they did not wear proper protective equipment. Their wearing rate was low due to a lack of knowledge about protective equipment, as well as the inconvenience of wearing it. Therefore there is a need to improve and develop specialized personal protective equipment for respiration, hands, and eyes, as well as work clothes that can protect farmers from major harmful matter that is generated in the poultry workplace. Based on the results of this investigation, we will conduct further studies on the required performance and design directions of personal protective equipment while collecting more objective data through field-oriented assessments.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권12호
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• pp.1837-1847
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• 2008

카멜레온은 미끈한 몸통과 화려한 색 띠들을 가진 작은 도마뱀을 말하는데 빛, 온도, 기분에 따라 색이 변화하는 것이 특징이다. 또한, 변덕스러운 사람, 요염하고 매혹적인 사람, 속물적이면서도 상황에 재빨리 대처하는 사람 등을 일컬어 카멜레온이라고 하기도 한다. 본 연구의 목적은 상황에 따라 색이 변하는 카멜레온 이미지를 요염한 변덕장이들의 섹시한 스타일로 비유해서 Wearable Art에 실루엣, 색, 텍스처 개발 기술을 접목하여 표현하고자 한 것이다. 연구방법은 카멜레온의 사실적, 개념적 특징들을 Wearable Art 작품으로 표현해 나가는 단계에서 특히, 옷감 표면에 다양한 제작 기술들을 실험해 보는 과정으로 진행되었다. 작품 이미지 컨셉은 'sensuality', 'tempting', 'splendid', 'brilliant', 'fascinating' 등으로 표현했고, 연구자의 미래지향적 기호와 움직임을 통한 편하고(comfortable) 즐거울 수 있는(enjoyable)개념 역시 포함되도록 하면서 작품 완성도를 높였다. 디자인 및 제작 포인트는 실제 카멜레온의 전체 라인, 색, 표피 질감 등 그 특징들을 분석하여 본 작품의 형태, 색, 텍스처 등을 통해 상징적으로 표현하도록 하였고, 동시에 요염한 변덕장이 카멜레온의 이미지가 암시적으로 나타날 수 있도록 하였다. 작품 실루엣은 바디컨셔스 라인(body-conscious line)이다. 이것은 카멜레온의 날씬하고 미끈한 몸체를 이미지화 한 것이며 동시에, 속세적이면서도 미래적인 이미지가 암시적으로 표현되도록 한 것이다. 카멜레온 등뼈가 드러난 것을 드레스 등이 노출되도록 하여 표현하였는데 이것은 동시에 관능적이고 요염한 카멜레온 이미지를 나타내는 것이다. 카멜레온의 유선형 머리부분 표현은 완만한 삼각형 모양의 후드패턴을 통해, 카멜레온의 길게 말린 꼬리 표현은 불규칙적인 플레어의 햄 라인으로 처리하여 상징적으로 표현하였다. 카멜레온 색들은 선명한 비비드 톤이면서 동시에 빛 또는 기분에 따라 색이 변화하는 것이 특징인데, 작품 제작 과정에서도 빛과 각도에 따라 드레스 색이 조금씩 다르게 보이는 효과를 가장 중요하게 연구하였다. 검정색 쉬폰 위에 퓨셔(fuchsia)색 작은 벨벳 물방울 무늬가 박힌 소재를 주 소재로 하여 표면에 입체적인 텍스처를 줌으로서 빛의 각도에 따라 두가지 색이 섞여져서 전체적으로 색이 다르게 보이는 착시 결과를 가져왔다. 허리에서의 빨강색과 파란색 계열의 다양한 스톤들은 실제 카멜레온 스킨 이미지와 더불어 돌출된 입체감과 그라데이션 효과로 인해 움직임에 따라 색이 다르게 보이는 결과를 가져왔다. 50% 쉬폰/50% 폴리에스테르에 벨벳 다트 무늬가 들어가 있는 원단을 사용하여 옷감 표면에 탄성실을 이용한 스모킹 주름효과를 주는 기술을 접목시켜 flexible한 스트레치성 옷감으로 재탄생시킴과 동시에 소재 표면에 오돌토돌한 텍스처가 생기게 하였다. 이것은 카멜레온의 표피와 흡사하면서 동시에 몸에 밀착되는 결과를 가져와 섹시하면서도 편안한 작품 이미지 표현에도 적절한 역할을 한다. 스톤장식은 아크릴릭카보숑(acrylic cabochons)과 잼스톤(gemstones)들을 섞어서 사용했는데 카멜레온 등 표피 질감을 상징함과 동시에 색이 다르게 보이는 효과를 나타낸다는 점에서 본 작품의 포인트이다. 드레스 제작은 주로 바이어스 결을 이용한 드레이핑 기법을 이용하였는데, 후드가 앞 몸판과 연결되어 있고 불규칙적인 사각형들이 앞에서 뒤로 옆 솔기 없이 연결되어 있다. 옷은 살아 움직이는 사람이 입어서 가장 편하고 즐거우면 옷의 완성도가 가장 높다고 할 수 있다. 카멜레온 드레스 역시 움직이는 신체와 함께 색이 다르게 보이는 기법과 효과를 연구하는 과정에서 편하고 즐거운 Wearable Art를 완성할 수 있었다. 바로 이점이 입는 예술 즉, 입고 즐길 수 있는 옷에 예술미를 가미한 Wearable Art의 진미가 아닐까 생각한다.