• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.1063-1071
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• 2006

Fetishism, which has been a taboo for a long time, is stimulating the modem people's emotions by being reborn as a fashion trend by a number of designers like Jean Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood and Claud Montana. Especially, Jean Paul Gaultier, called the bad boy of the fashion industry, is leading the Paris fashion world by expressing his unique fetish elements with his fantastic and uncommon ideas-males' wearing of skirts, wearing underwear like outer garments. Therefore, this study is aimed at investigating how his fetishism is shown in his works, understanding his fetish fashion world in the modem fashion and offering a new stepping-stone for fashion designers to actively participate in new fashion areas. Its results are as follows. First, it was found that the sensual designer Jean Paul Gaultier has been expressing his unique fetish elements in his collections like the following three styles of fetishism-fetishism by physical emphases, fetishism by items, fetishism by material. Second, the symbols of voluptuous beauty reflecting his own fetishism could be found in his movie costumes, license areas and given plots. Third, the work describing Jean Paul Gaultier's fetishism as a fetish image with the concept of Fantasy of Missing was evaluated as a successful work to express an internal sexual desire.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.14 no.4 s.36
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• pp.281-291
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• 1990

Experiment I and II had done to develop the solar heat proof hat for field work in the summer. In the experiment I physical characteristics of several fabrics was tested to determine which one Is proper to make the solar heat proof hat. On the base of above results in the experiment II three improved solar heat proof hat was deviced and tested solar heat proof effect and compared the existing summer working hat by wearing trials in the environmental chamber. The results obtained were as follows. 1. In the view of the physical characteristics of six fabrics (Blue T/C, White poplin, Vapor transfer silver coating nylon taffeta, No vapor trans(or silver coating nylon taffeta, Aluminum coating T/C, Microporous fabric), the light color T/C and no vapor transfer silver coating nylon ta(feta is proper to make improved solar heat proof working hat. 2. Three improved hats that are made of white T/C, grey T/C and no vapor transfer silver coating nylon taffeta have more solar heat proof effect than the existing summer working hat. 3. Among the three improved hats, the improved hat that is made of no vapor transfer silver coating nylon taffeta is most effective to proof the solar heat.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.5
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• pp.626-636
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to show a theoretical system of expressional area, the characteristics and the effects which is applied to fashion illustration by metaphor theory. The theoretical system of expressional area was analyzed by category analysis and 150 fashion illustrations from 1900 to 1999 were analyzed by contents analysis. The results of this study were as follows: Metaphor in fashion illustration was categorized to replacement, parody, heterogeneous combination, surrealism, magnification and reduction of size, optical illusion, juxtaposition and distortion of form. In detail, First, replacement was showed omission of form, non-object color, texture. Second, parody was showed using the part in artistic work, differentiation of original work. Third, heterogeneous combination was showed unreal body combining between animal and plant. Fourth, surrealism was showed creation of object which is impossible to present. Fifth, magnification and reduction of size was showed bizarre magnification of part of body, size of clothing. Sixth, optical illusion was showed ambiguity of object because of creation of new form. Seventh, juxtaposition was showed the parallel of contradicting idea and change of meaning between heterogeneous objects. Eighth, the distortion of form was showed grotesque distortion of part of body and disgusting object.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.202-209
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• 2013

This study suggests a new women's upper clothing based on traditional Korean costumes that utilize the Jatmulim. The Jatmulim is an example of the skill found in conditional Korean costumes and is of a small triangular shape. Jatmulim was developed in size, shape, and arrangement through the method of making and using children's Durumagi, the dancer's or shaman's Mongduri, and modern works. A total of five pieces of different women's clothing were suggested by applying the developed Jatmulim. In the first piece, the clothing is a woman's sleeveless blouse based on the construction of the Yoseon-Cheolik from the Joseon period and made with a larger sized Jatmulim in the back of the neckline and shoulders. In the second piece, the clothing is designed for a woman's jacket based on the Bansuui of the Joseon period with rectangular Jatmulim in the front neckline and at the end of the sleeves. In the third piece, the clothing is designed for a woman's sleeveless blouse based on the Danryeong with rectangular Jatmulim in the neckline. In the fourth piece, the construction of the Jeogori is applied to the clothing for making a woman's jacket that has a bigger sized Jatmulim in the front part as a decoration. In the fifth work, the clothing is designed for a sleeveless blouse based on the Dapho with a different sized arrangement of the Jatmulim in the neckline.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.53-66
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• 2002

The spiral form, which comes from the organic form of natural phenomenon such as growth of creatures, has been used as a factor of formative shape in various fields of art until now. In conjunction herewith, this study intends to discover and express the life force and the formative beauty of natural substances with the organic spiral forms into clothing design, using various creating methods and materials such as Korean traditional paper. The natural substances with the spiral structure, such as seashells, land snails, passion flower, curled flower, growing chart of plants, Impatiens textori was used as subjects of the designs. The seven pieces of work were completed with attempts to develop aesthetic forms through the presentation techniques and methods via restructuring process of simplification, partial transformation and consolidation. Through such process the conclusion of this study is as follows: First, the nature, with unlimited possibilities, could be subject of human formative activities, leading to the creative world of formative art for designers. Second, adaptation of the spiral organic forms of nature into the contemporary clothing designs proved the motif as a source of inspiration of diverse subject, in recognition with its innate formative beauty as well as external shape. Third, design expressions via restructuring process of simplification, partial transformation and consolidation with designer's subjective point of view were adequate for the creations of contemporary fashion designs. Fourth, the Korean traditional paper, as a fine material for various shape according to the handling method, could be used appropriately in the contemporary clothing designs, expressing our aesthetic senses. Fifth and finally, expansion of the realm of formative expression of clothing through the development of possibilities of expression in contemporary clothing would enhance the creative possibilities of clothing design as formative art. In conclusion, the expression of clothing design as formative art was developed on the emphasis of re-creation of natural objects of the organic spiral form. For the future study, the applications of spiral form into everyday clothing designs, consolidating artistic senses and practical senses, are expected as opportunity of proposing developmental possibilities of the contemporary clothing designs.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.61 no.3
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• pp.493-503
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• 2023

Since ISO 20471 regulations(2013) were enacted, high-visibility clothing made of fluorescent fabric and retroreflective materials has been standardized to distinguish the wearers from the surrounding background in a dark place and to protect them. Accordingly, we made high-visibility safety clothing based on the international standards, and examined the positions of the retro-reflective materials on the attached sites to evaluate the suitability of the positions, by 3 types of safety clothing and the body regions when the wearers work or move. Two retro-reflective films of 5cm-horizontal lines were attached to the front/back of the upper-wear, and the lower-wear. Vertical lines were attached from the shoulder to the horizontal waistline. To analyze the motion in 3-dimension, we took pictured infrared-reflective markers on the retro-reflective film covered with yellow-tape on the front-side when 6 subjects wearing experimental garments performed 6 types of motions. According to the metronome tempo, the motions were performed for 30 seconds and repeated 6 motions ①~⑥ by 3 experimental clothing. Among the 6 motions, significant differences in the appearance rate of the markers by body region during the motions were found in 5 types except for motion ③. Significant differences by the post-hoc test were shown in motions ④ and ⑥ as well. Therefore, for high-visibility safety clothing, it is necessary to anticipate the worker's motion and consider the attaching position of the retro-reflective material. It is considered desirable to attach the retro-reflective materials to several places where the clothing is hard to wrinkle.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.46-53
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to survey and analyze the conditions and automation of sewing machines and thereby, address the problems and their solutions to help local sewn products enhance their international competitiveness. The results of study can be summarized as follows : 1. It was found that most of the sample companies were getting smaller scale or pettier in terms of capital, number of employees or scale of factory. The interest in facility investment was relatively higher, which suggests high interest of our sewing companies in facility investment. 2. Most of the sample companies were well equipped with the essential and several auxiliary sewing machines, but poorly equipped with the special or automated sewing machines. 3. The ratio of idle machines was highest in sewing work, compared with cutting or finishing work, primarily due to decreased orders, aging machines or reduced manpower.

• Korean Journal of Rural Living Science
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.121-128
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• 1996

This study was performed to define the effects of Far Infrared Ray Radiation Fabrics as summer garments during outdoor work by human trial. One healthy male subject was volunteered for this study. Experimental garments consisted of three kinds of trousers (Cotton, Cotton/linen blended, Far Infrared Ray Radiation Fabric/wool blended) and basic garments (panty, socks, shirts, and dress shirts). The measurements were rectal temp., skin temp., microclimate inside clothing, heart rate, subjective sensation etc. The results were as follows : 1. Rectal temperature showed the lowest in Far Infrared Ray Radiation Fabrics among 3 garments. 2. Skin temperature (forehead, chest abdomen temp.) and mean skin temperature were lower in Far Infrared Ray Radiation Fabrics than in others, especially during early stage of work. 3. Heart rate showed lower value in Far Infrared Ray Radiation Fabrics than in others but there was no significance among the garments. 4. Humidity inside clothing and total weight loss showed the highest value in Far Infrared Ray Radiation Fabrics.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.59-67
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• 1999

The results of study can be summarized as follows: 1. Few sewing companies committed their workers to a professional and systematic training course. 2. Brands as Brother, Juki, Yamato, Singer and Nara were being much used. Among them the Brother was most popular. The age of the sewing machines was between one and six years. Most companies were repairing their machines. The manual main sewing machines were more frequently out of order than other machines. The ratio of idle machines was highest in sewing work, compared with cutting or finishing work, primarily due to decreased orders, aging machines or reduced manpower. 3. Most of the sewing companies were feeling necessary for automated sewing machines.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.311-322
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• 1996

To accomodate workers with efficient mobility, coveralls were redesigned, construted and evaluated. In this study, especially, image processing techniques were applied to the evaluation stage, to quantify thE ease of body movement. For the initial observation stage, car-center workers were interviewed and their movements were videotaped. By analyzing the videotape, the area of stress and strains on the work clothes were marked on the figure chert and considered for the pattern making. 4DM cut pattern were applied to the upper part of the work clothes and other alternations were made throughout the problem area. Honey comb slashes were made on the problem area of the original and newly designed coveralls. Open areas of honey comb slashes due to body movement between the original and newly designed coveralls were analyzed by image processing techniques. Other objective and subjective evaluation of newly designed coveralls was compared with the original one. Overall evaluation of functionally designed coveralls was appered to be positive and the image processing techiques were useful methology to quantify the amount of stress in this study.