• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제33권7호
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• pp.1121-1127
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• 2009

This study presents an eco-friendly and one-step finishing method for modifying fiber property that reduces fiber damage in wool/polyester blend fabrics. Lipase from aspergillus oryzae is used in this experiment. The enzymatic treatment condition is optimized by measuring the relative activity of lipase depending on pH level, temperature, concentration of lipase, and treatment time. The concentration of $CaCl_2$as an activator is determined by the characteristics including whiteness, water contact angle (WCA), and dyeing property. The modified properties of lipase treated fabrics are tested for pill resistance and surface morphology. The results are described as follows: the optimum condions for lipase treatment constitute a pH level of 8.0, treatment temperature of 40$^{\circ}$$_C$, concentration of lipase at 100% (o.w.f), and a treatment time of 90 minutes. $CaCl_2$helps in raising lipase activation, and the optimum concentration is 50mM. The whiteness, wet ability, and pill resistance of lipase treated fabrics improves as compared to the control. The dyeing property of lipase treated fabrics improved by 53.5% after using the one-bath dyeing method. This means that lipase treatment can save time and cost during the dyeing process since lipase treatment modifies wool and polyester fibers. The surface of lipase treated wool fibers do not exhibit any change, however voids and cracks manifest on the surface of lipase treated polyester fibers.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.113-118
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• 2007

It is well recognized that the wicking of liquids in a textile fabric takes place mainly through a capillary system composed of the individual fibers. Considering typical dyeing stages, it is thought that a high dye uptake on the fabric probably depends on the wickability. Three kinds of barely water soluble ketones, acetophenone(A), 2-pentanone(2P) and 3-pentanone(3P) were separately dissolved in methanol(M) and then each was mixed with aqueous solution of C. I. Red Acid 114. Wicking heights of dyeing solutions were measured under such conditions that the effect of gravity was negligible. The result could be graphed as a series of straight lines having the form s = $kt^{1/2}$, where s was distance traveled by the solutions, t was time, and k was slope of the line. The surface tension(${\gamma}$) of the ketones had more signifcant effect on the wickability compared to the viscosity(${\eta}$) of them. The greater wickability resulted in the higher dye uptake on the fabric and the order of wickabilty was equal to that of the surface tension(${\gamma}$) and dye uptake on the fabric, A>3P>2P>M.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• 제2권4호
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• pp.196-202
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• 2001

In order to investigate the relationship between subjective sensation for fabric sound and touch and the objective measurements, eight different apparel fabrics were selected as specimens. Sound parameters of fabrics including level pressure of total sound (LPT), level range (ΔL), and frequency differences (Δf) and mechanical properties by Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) were obtained. For subjective evaluation, seven aspects of the sound (softness, loudness, pleasantness, sharpness, clearness, roughness, and highness) and eight of the tough (hardness, smoothness, fineness, coolness, pliability, crispness, heaviness, and thickness) were rated using semantic differential scale. Polyester ultrasuede was evaluated to sound softer and more pleasant while polyester taffeta to sound louder and rougher than any other fabrics. Wool fabric such as worsted and woolen showed similar sensation for sound but differed in some touch sensation in that woolen was coarseast, heaviest, and thickest in touch. In the prediction model for sound sensation, LPT affected positively subjective roughness and highness as well as loudness, while ΔL was found as a parameter related positively with softness and pleasantness. Touch sensation was explained by some of mechanical properties such as surface, compressional, shear, and bending properties implying that a touch sensation could be expressed by a variety of properties.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제34권3호
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• pp.508-517
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• 2010

One-step reduction/dyeing method was optimized for wool dyeing with natural indigo dye in this study. The effects of reduction/dyeing conditions including dye temperature and time, the pH of bath, concentration of dye, and reducing agent on dye uptake and color were investigated. The dye uptake was higher with no addition of alkali. Dyeing was carried out through the use of only sodium hydrosulfite in the bath. The maximum dye uptake was obtained at $60^{\circ}C$ for 30min and the dyed fabrics appeared in the PB Munsell color range. Dye uptake improved with the increase of a natural indigo dye concentration with the same sodium hydrosulfite concentration. At a higher dye uptake, the fabric color became more purplish and the maximum absorption shifted from 660nm to 620nm. Color reproducibility was reliable with a color difference in the range of 0.41~1.43. Regardless of color strength, washing and dry cleaning fastnesses were good with a 4/5 rating, and fastnesses to rubbing and light were acceptable with a 3/4~4 rating.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제37권7호
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• pp.864-873
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• 2013

This study analyzed the correlation between the sources of the complaints and various factors such as gender, garment type, fabric type, textile material and washing methods for products. This survey utilized a total of 2,609 consumer apparel product complaint cases filed with the Korea Consumer Agency between 1997 and 2009. In regards to consumer liability: it was found that more incidents of failures due to carelessness were reported among men's clothes, knitted garments, cotton clothes, polyester clothes, wool blend clothes, pants, shirts, sportswear, and laundry only clothes. In regards to dry cleaner's liability: women's goods, woven clothes, silk clothes, cotton blend clothes, jackets, shirts and hanbok, and dry clean only clothes indicated problems more frequently. In regards to manufacture's liability: women's clothes, woven clothes, wool clothes, silk clothes, wool blend clothes, polyester blend clothes, formal dress clothes, jackets, hanbok, and dry clean only clothes indicated problems more frequently. This study provides consumers with information necessary to take preventive measures and basic information that can be utilized to improve the quality of production and services by understanding the sources of dissatisfaction, type of clothes found with problems, and the main causes of consumer complaints for garment products according to who is liable.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.38-45
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• 1999

Natural red colorants were extracted from Phytolacca americana Linne by using 50% ethanol solution at room temperature for 12 hours. The colorant components were partially purified as yellow and deep red colorants by thin layer chromatography. Natural red colorants were consisted of major water-soluble red colorant, having maximum absorbance at 538nm and alcohol-soluble yellow colorant, having maximum absorbance at 664nm. Concentration of red colorants were calibrated by the equation of dye(mg/ml) $A_{538nm}\times{1.284}$. Red colorants were changed to yellow at extreme alkali pH and repaired 55% color intensity by neutralization of pH and stabled below $55^\circ{C}$. Dyeability of red colorants against wool fabrics was mainly operated by red pigment having 538nm absorbance without big color differences. Below $55^\circ{C}$, color differences $(\Delta{E}^*_{ab})$ were not changed in spite of big difference of chroma$(c^*)$, having higher scores at higher temperature. The effect of mordants were not drastically changed parameters of color difference without copper ion. Citric acid was big changes of color difference$(\Delta{E}^*_{ab})$ in spite of similar chroma$(c^*)$ values. From these experimental results, red colorants from Phytolacca americana Linne is available for wool fabric dyeing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.47-55
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• 1985

To determine the change of the mechanical properties of the wool/polyester blend fabrics in proportion to blend ratio, 10 mechanical properties were measured on 6 blend fabrics by KES-F system. Blend ratio on the 6 blend fabrics was increased by $20\%$, and the structure of the fabric were plain, 2/2 twill, respectively. And wearing performances in propoetion to blend ratio on the 6 blend fabrics were investigated. In this experiment. the following conclusions were obtained with the increase of blend ratio of polyester. 1) The values of WT, RT in tensile properties. tensile energy and elongation, and RC in compressional properties were decreased. 2) The values of B, 2HB in bending properties, 2HG. 2HG 5 in shearing properties were increased. 3) Putting on clothes, wearing performance was bad because crumbling of shape and wrinkle were easily made an appearance. Particularly it was remarkably bad as blend ratio of polyester was expressed $60\%$.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.12-20
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• 2007

Four kinds of natural dying solutions (natural colorant extracts)were obtained by extraction from sappan wood, black tea, peony, and clove using water as extracting solvent at $90^{\circ}C$ for 90 min with liquor ratio (solid natural colorant material/solvent water, weight ratio) of 1/10. The dyeing, colour fastness and deodorizing properties of fabrics (cotton, silk, and wool fabrics) dyed with natural colorant extracts were compared. It was found that these properties were significantly dependent on the concentration of extracts, the structure of colorant, and the kind of fabrics. The K/S value of dyed cotton fabric increased in the order of peony < sappan wood < clove < black tea, however, the values of dyed silk and wool fabrics were in the order of peony < sappan wood < black tea < clove. Colour fastness (light, water, and perspiration fastness) was in the range of 3 - 5 grade except for sappan wood. The deodorizing performance of fabrics dyed with various natural colorants extracts was in the range of 56 - 99%. The deodorizing performance increased in the order of peony < black tea < sappan wood < clove. Especially, the deodorizing performance of all fabrics dyed with clove was found to be the highest at 98-99%.

• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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• 한국섬유공학회 2003년도 The Korea-Japan Joint Symposium
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• pp.51-52
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• 2003

In order to understand the buffering behavior of hygroscopic fabric under subzero conditions, microclimates of the wool and PET clothing system were measured and compared. Vertical type Man-Clothing-Environment simulator was used to measure the microclimate at the environmental temperature of -10$^{\circ}C$. Buffering capacity was quantified by calculating from the depth and width of the hyperbolic curve of the graph. Hydrophilic wool fabrics showed better buffering capacity at the transient state than hydrophobic PET fabrics; which is attributed to the heat of sorption.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.137-145
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• 1989

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of the permenent pleats finish on the cystine contents and the physical properties of wool fabrics. Monoethanolamine Sulfite (MEAS) was used as a reducing agent. Cystine contents of the fabrics were determined after the fabric was treated with various MEAS concentrations and steamset time. The cystine contents were increase as the MEAS concentrations were increased. The cystine contents were also increased with steamset time. As the settability showed close relationship with the cystine contents, breakdown and rebuilding of the cystine linkage was thought to play an important role for the settability. Physical properties such as shrink resistance, crease recovery angle and tensile strength were increased as the MEAS concentration was increased. As the stramset time was increased, shrink resistance and crease recovery angle were in creased.