• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.35 no.6
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• pp.612-620
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• 2019

A woolen tapestry curtain, owned by the Seoul Museum of Craft Art, is composed of tabby by cotton-warp and wool-weft threads and its patterned part is shown as a tapestry; paint with pigment has been added to it. The chromaticity of this curtain was measured and the substances in the deep red color were confirmed as Hg by an analysis of the ingredients through X-ray fluorescence. This is presumed to be cinnabar or vermilion. Analyses were performed on a total of seven fabric samples, including the warp & weft of the fabric, its trimming, and its back fabric. As a result, the warp of the woolen tapestry curtain was determined to be a cotton fiber with a middle hole or lumen in the cross-section. Furthermore, an infrared peak likewise showed O-H and C-O binding. Wool fibers as wefts were identified with circular and oval cross-sections and IR peaks showed N-H/O-H stretching and amide(-CONH-). The animal hair samples used in the wool fiber are believed to have come from long-tailed goral or goats and the possibility of using easy-to-spin sapsal dog hair is also not to be overlooked. This was determined through a contrast analysis by the Cultural Heritage Administration to identify the animal species used in the tapestry.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.13-26
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to analyze the preference of design and body shape for korean baby-boom generation women. For this study, in-depth interviews were carried out to 11 women who were born in 1955~1963. They are called korean baby-boom generation. The results were as follows; 1) Korean baby-boom generation women care to their body shape, and they make much of the balance of body, not just looking slim. 2) Korean baby-boom generation women become more interested in their clothing, and they want to look with casual image than elegant image before. But overweight women preferred elegant image. 3) Korean baby-boom generation women prefer mix-match style for everyday clothes, but they prefer suit-set for formal wear. 4) When Korean baby-boom generation women choose of jacket or coat color, they consider more of their body-shape than season color. 5) Korean baby-boom generation women prefer plain style and jacquard with metal yarn. 6) Korean baby-boom generation women prefer out-door cloth fabric, at special time, they choose pure wool and pure silk. At ordinary time, they like more comfortable fabric like cotton mixed spandex or wool mixed spandex blends.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.381-389
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• 2002

This research was designed to investigate the preference to textiles for slacks of college students. 105 subjects majored in fashion design were surveyed. Subjects selected three favorite materials among 120 samples presented in swatch book and weighted frequency and percentage were added by order. The extent of preference was compared by season and sex. The results of this study were as follows: 1. College students preferred twill cotton Drill foremost as a textile for spring and fall season. 2. Plain linen Crash was the most preferred material for summer. 3. Cotton Corduroy was the most preferred textile for winter. 4. In thickness and weight, textiles for winter were thicker and heavier than those of other seasons. 5. In fiber content, natural fiber such as wool were preferred for all seasons. 6. In weave of textiles, twill weave fabric was preferred for spring fall and winter season, and plain weave for summer. 7. College students preferred plain texture materials foremost and navy blue and black color was preferred for textiles for slacks. 8. Girl students preferred cotton fabrics and boys preferred wool fabric for slacks. Also, girls generally preferred thinner fabrics than those of boys.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.1-6
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• 1998

It is important in the durable water and oil repellent finishing for wool fabric what kinds of water-repellent agents will be used. Water repellent agents and its concentration were aleady chosen in the previous paper, one of the crosslinking agents which has less damages(harsh handle or yellowing) to the treated fabrics was a low molecular weight urethane-based resins(eg. Elastron BN-11). In repellent finishing, fabrics were padded in a bath which contained aqueous solution of water-repellent agents, and crosslinking agents, and wetting agents, followed by drying and curing. The most suitable treating condition for excellent repellency and durability to dry-cleaning was as follows ： Fabrics are padded at liquor pick-up ratio of 50%, with aqueous solution which contained $30g/\ell$ of water-repellent agents, and $1g/\ell$ of crosslinking agents, and 40g/s of wetting agents. And the padded fabrics were dried at $110^\circ{C}$ for 1 minute, and cured at $160^\circ{C}$ for 1 minute. For the fabrics, water and oil repellencies and durability to repeated dry-cleanings were observed. For enhancing the durability to dry-cleaning, the role of crosslinking agents was important for they bonds water-repellent agents and fibers to 3-dimensional net structure. Therefore, the most suitable drying and curing conditions should be selected according to the kinds of crosslinking agents.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.609-616
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to examine the difference of judge's gender and age groups in preference of S/S men's suit fabrics, and to analyze the relationship between the preference and the texture by gender and age group. For this study, 60 types of S/S men's suit fabrics were used with variously-composed fibers, such as wool, wool-blended, and PET, thickness, and weight. To evaluate the texture and the preference subjectively, nine ranks' semantic differential scale questions of 22 texture adjectives and preference of 4 apparel items were developed, Through the factor analysis, texture adjectives were classified into 7 categories: "stiffness," "elasticity," "bulkiness," "coolness," "smoothness," and "drapability." Depending on gender and age groups of judges, statistically significant differences on texture factors and the preference were observed. Especially, men under 30 years of age showed a higher grade of stiffness and a lower preference on pants than other groups. The relationship between the texture and the preference was different by gender and age group: Women evaluated a preference of men's suit fabrics in relation to stiffness and smoothness, whereas men did so in relation to stiffness, smoothness, coolness, and drapability. A young age group put more importance on drapability for preference of men's suit fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.22
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• pp.61-70
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• 1994

the purpose of study is to grasp the actual state of the textiles of Kojosun, Booyeo and Kogooryeo, by examining and studying about the excavated article of the textile of the Booyeo Age which was being gamered in the Research Institute of Study of antiquities of Civilization of gilimsung without being analyzed and examined after being excavated at September in 1990 and 1993, the textile of Kojosun Age wich was excavated and examined at East and North Gilimsung in China and the textile excavated and examined at the Kogooryeo grave at jiban China. 1. The kinds of textiles of Booye Age are warp kum plin weave silk plain weave bang gong Sa, and drawn and dyed textile, It is deemed that the real state of keum, Jeung and Hwi in the old literature of Sam guk Ji was grasped. 2. It emerges that more detailed wool than the wool fabric of China area of the same age was manufactured as the textile of Kojosun Age. hemp cloth corresponds to 12 Seung, in converting into fabric width of 50cm. 3. Keum was examined and reported as the textile of Kogooryeo Age and the real state of Woonkeum of Kogooryeo Age was grasped through "Wang ja moon keum" of Keumjang of mural of South and North I room of the grave that the same keum was excavated. The real state of dyed textile of hemp was grasped as the red hemp cloth was examined. Moreover the real state of development of advanced technique to weave with machine appeared by the grasp of inclination of loom with reed of Kogooryeo.Kogooryeo.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.119-129
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• 2020

Unlike synthetic dyes, natural dyes do not affect the human body or create atmosphere pollution that are also mothproof, antibiotic and sterilized. This study examined the changes in dye adsorption properties according to mordant types and mordanting method to qualify trends using sage and rosemary extracts. Dyeability of sage extract is often similar to rosemary extract regardless of dyeing conditions. Dyeing properties of herb colorants on cotton, silk and wool fiber and effect of dyeing conditions on dye uptake were also compared. Dyed fabric showed a yellowish color and the dyeing affinity was somewhat good with rosemary extract. The surface color of the dyed fabrics was darkened by mordant treatment. The K/S value of herb colorants of protein fiber was higher than cellulose fiber. The concentration of mordant having the highest dyeing affinity was different from the mordant type. Regardless of the type of fiber, the K/S value of premordanting was the highest in mordanting method, and the K/S value of simultaneous mordanting indicated no noticeable mordant effect. The fastness of washing of silk fabric was reduced the most by mordant treatment. The lightfastness was reduced in Al mordant treatment regardless of the type of fiber. The lightfastness of wool increased somewhat by mordant treatment.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.470-474
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• 1993

This study carried out to get some fundamental data for designing lightweight bedding. In This study, the wool blanket, polyester/cotton blended blanket and down quilt were manufactured with a varied materials, structural factors such as yam count, fabric density respectivelyarn. And also, the thermal insulation value of the bedding were measured by warmth retaining tester. In addition, this paper examines the influence of varying materials, structural factors and blanket layers on the thermal insulation effect of the bedding. The main results obtained from this study are as follow : 1. The design of lightweight blankets make an attempting with a varying materials and structural factors such as yam count, fabric densityarn. 2. Almost, the design of lightweight blankets for polyester/cotton blended blanket and down quilt make an attempting without reduction in thermal insulation values. 3. The 6 layers of blanket have less thermal insulation value than the 6 times of blanket for under a layer have. About 27~32% decrease is observed in thermal insulation value of blanket for under 6 layer. 4. The thermal insulation value and areal weight of blankets have a positive relation between the thermal insulation value(Y) and areal weight(X) is based on the following equation. wool blanket : Y = 1.0850X + 0.4188 (r = 0.9992) PIC blended blanket : Y = 0.8845X + 0.3034 (r = 0.9999)

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.19-29
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• 2020

The purpose of this study was to investigate Renaissance wall-covering fabrics through Flemish paintings, that provides the details of the origin and development of background of modern wallcovering. The methods of the study are as follows. First, the background of textile development of Flanders in the 14^th to 16^th centuries were examined through a prior study. Second, the shape and use of wallcoverings in paintings painted during that time were analyzed and the process of changing to modern forms was studied. The residential environment with many stone buildings in relatively humid and cold weather created a need for decorative fabrics. Back then, the wool and flax fabric were not allowed to be worn on the body, so the materials were used for the development of interior fabrics. The characteristics of wall covering in Flemish paint can be summarized with movable, allegory, and decoration. Movable stems from the arrival of the emerging aristocrats of Flanders, who had enormous commercial trade and carried decorative fabrics; the mobility has become an allegory in reality as the royal and aristocratic use of wall-decorated fabrics is the symbol of authority. In addition, unlike Italy, where silk was procured from the East, fabrics manufactured using flax and wool were not suitable for clothing in terms of religion and practicality and were used to decorate walls.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.6
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• pp.1016-1024
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• 2018

Lifestyle of Health and Sustainability (LOHAS) influences the development of hygienic and health-oriented functional textile products; consequently, there has been an increase in the prospects for environmentally friendly natural dyeing products with functional and sensitive characteristics. Therefore, the present study expresses a functional manifestation on fabrics by treatment with chitosan and tannin using natural Coptidis Rhizoma. Cotton and wool fabrics dyed with Coptidis Rhizoma after treatment with chitosan and tannin. Consequently, the antibiosis of fabric dyed with Coptidis Rhizoma was excellent with 99.9% bacterial reduction for Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae in both fabrics. The deodorization rate was more than 90.0% in both fabrics after 120 minutes. The UV-A protection rate was 88.2% and the UV-B protection rate was 87.7% for cotton. The UV-A protection rate was 88.2% and the UV-B protection rate was 84.3% for wool fabric. Therefore, both of the dyed fabrics showed excellent UV protection by treatment with only chitosan and tannin, without mordants. Therefore, chitosan and tannin treatments were able to manifest functionalities in the fabrics dyed with Coptidis Rhizoma.