• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.252-264
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to compare two analytical methods classifying foot shape. The methods compared were cluster analysis method and foot index analysis method. This study defined the women's foot shape by these methods. 39 foot measurements which were automatically collected using the three dimensional foot scanner were analyzed. 203 Korean women in age 20s were participated in the anthropometric survey. Their foot shapes were classified into 5 foot types by cluster analysis: short & slim shape, flat shape, short & slender shape with slightly distorted toe, long and big shape, and short & wide shape. The foot measurements were also analyzed by the ratio of foot width and length. Five foot types that were classified by cluster analysis and three foot types that were classified by the foot index were compared. The comparison shows that cluster analysis precisely defined foot shapes. It was suggested that made-to-measure shoes making industry may adopt the foot shape analysis method utilizing cluster analysis.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.159-170
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• 2016

This study is aimed to research the trend of studies on the evaluation of clothing fit using the domestic research journals. clothing fit has long been regarded as the most important element to customers in clothing appearance. Understanding fit from a consumer's perspective is complex. 85 articles were collected from domestic academic sites (KISS, DBpia, KiSTi). Many clothing fit articles published on the 2011-2016 year. In research target, young women were more than other age groups. On the evaluation of clothing fit, method of clothing fit classified survey using the questionnaire and wearing test. Many articles were used the survey using the questionnaire, 57.7%. The other articles were used wearing test with professional analyst and objective evaluation tool. Objective evaluation was used 3D virtual wearing systems (i-designer, DC suit, CLO et al). In the survey using the questionnaire and wearing test using the objective evaluation, jacket and pants were researched on the clothing items mainly. Many young women put on the jacket and pants to active energetically. In the future, researches related clothing fit need to develop the objective and accuracy evaluation tool of clothing fit.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.200-212
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• 2015

In order to study the foot deformity hallux valgus, the rate of which is currently increasing, 235 patients who were diagnosed with hallux valgus and treated in an orthopedic hospital in Seoul had their feet calibrated before and after surgery using 3d radio-scans. Data from 209 cases was analyzed and scored numerically. We scored 10 items for length, 4 for width, 3 for angle, and 2 for height, for a total of 20 items. Each individual's feet showed great variation in most of the items and significant differences after surgery, especially in regards to length and height, which increased after surgery. Angle, width, and length of the distal parts of the toes decreased after surgery. Based on the results of our analysis, we conclude that surgery brings about significant changes in structure and measurement of feet. This research confirmed that there is significant variation in foot form and individual differences based on lesion size and location and, thus, it is difficult for hallux valgus patients to find ready-made shoes that fit them properly. Foot changes before and after operation for hallux valgus were analyzed and the results quantified; our results should be considered during product design by shoe companies whose target is adult women.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.76-87
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to understand how the silhouette changed throughout 1970s and assess how US women express their identities through their dress, which may explain societies' attitudes through the way women dresses. US Vogue fashion magazines were used to explore all the information on fashion and style trends, social trends, beauty, and travel. A content analysis was performed on the issues of the March and September for the years 1970 to 1979. The findings for this study about the 1970s were all about perpetual change, constantly moving forward with innovation. The color ranged from bright, cheery and bold to deep and passionate to subtle neutrals. There were a few constant colors through the decade like white, black and navy. Occasionally the trend would completely change from one season to the next within the same year. They would be full and oversized and then be slim and body conscious. The one trend that stayed true for the entire decade was wrapping. Skirts, pants, dresses, tops, shoes and jewelry; everything wrapped in one-way or another. Clothes steadily became more revealing as the years progressed. Fabrics over all were soft and knitted. Casual and comfortable was the phase heard most often. In the 1970s there was constant change in prints. They were bold and large or subtle and small, ethnic or floral. Hair was mostly smooth and sleek however towards the style moved to a fuller look.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제25권6호
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• pp.893-912
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• 2017

Crowdsourcing models in which organizaions obtain needed product ideas and services from a crowd in a network-based society are rising as a global industry trend. The purpose of this study was to figure out the types and characteristics of crowdsourcing design shown in the domestic fashion brands, and to provide implications for design strategies using crowdsourcing. This study was based on qualitative research which was brand case studies on crowdsourcing design in the fashion industry from January 2006 to July 2017. Also, quantitative analysis using frequency and percentage was applied. The results were as follows: First, crowdsourcing design was used in almost all types of fashion brands, such as sports and outdoor wear, men's wear, women's wear, men's and women's casual wear, shoes, bags, school uniforms, jeans, accessories, etc. Crowdsourcing design in the fashion industry was classified into three types: crowdsourcing graphics and artwork; crowdsourcing customized designs; and crowdsourcing product designs. Of the three types, crowdsourcing graphics and artwork was used most. There were four methods to choose the best crowsourced design: review only by experts, voting by crowd and review by experts, crowdvoting, and crowdfunding. Second, the characteristics of crowdsourcing design were openness, participation, reward and acknowledgement, sharing and interaction, and individualized collective intelligence. Crowdsourcing design could be used as an open innovation strategy in the fashion industry, which could collect new and creative design ideas for product development, resulting in the satisfaction of consumers and benefitting the company.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.19-30
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• 1984

There is a symbolic term which has realized custom of an era and has eome into fashion since the middle of 1920's. That is Garconne. This paper studied the image and costume of Garconne expressed in literary works, the form of art made it to come into being, and costume of a group of women played a role of pioneers of Garconne. Garconne attempted simple, casual, and mannish costume instead of usual elegance. It was the boiysh style($\`{a}$, la Garconne) which did not stress on the bust and waist like chanel suits used wool jersey by a designer, Chanel ana short skirts of low waist line. They got short haircut and wore low heel shoes. Garconne meant women who were free of convention, were familiar with love a d profession, and lived for themselves in the same manner of young men. They yieled new mode of 1920's. Though their lives were only a period, they manifested the symbol of the period though their figure and designation was not disappeared at the age but was settled as a mark of fixed image. There were several reasons why the Garconne was born. Rapid changes in politics, economics, and society in Europe were occurred from the First World War to 1920 and the trend of custom and art was a turning point. Especially, the entry of women into the society and the mode of Art Deco influenced it directly. The role of a pioneer of Garconne was appeared from the French Revolution. As Merveilleuse, Lionne, and Bloomers wore peculiar clothings ana had life style being irrelevant to tradition, they were talked about. They informed in advance the appearance of new women who were different from romantic ladies and were more modern and active. The pioneer design of Paul Poiret which were over whelming throughout a period and functional design of Chanel were increasingly accelerated.

• 복식
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• 제62권4호
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• pp.164-180
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• 2012

This study focuses on the hats in the advertisements of the newspapers from the Greater Korean Empire to the Time of Independence. There were Yeomo(禮帽), Jungsanmoja(中山帽子), Jungjeolmoja(中折帽子), Women's hat, Undongmoja(運動帽子), and Hakdomoja(學徒帽子) from 1897 to the 1900s. The names of the hats were written with Chinese characters as there was no specific name for women's hats. There were a lot of hats in the 1910s; Jungjeolmoja, Jungsanmoja, Hukyeomoja(黑禮帽子), Panama, Doriuchi(鳥打;とり-うち), Maggomo(麥程帽), Ilkyomoja(一交字帽), cheongyeonmo(靑年帽), Jajacheongyeonmo(刺子靑年帽), Hakaaksangmo(學生帽), Undongmo, Laparyunmoja, Banghanmo(防寒帽), Mokchulmo(目出帽), Pungbangi(風防耳), Nambaui, and Pungdongi(風憧耳). Most of the hats were western hats for men. From the 1920s to 1930s, the hats were classified as to the shape and uses as compared to before that period. The hats were advertised in the newspapers such as Jungjeolmoja, Jungsanmoja, Panama, Doriuchimo, Maggomo, Ilkyomoja, cheongyeonmo, Jajacheongyeonmo, Hakaaksangmo, Undongmo, Banghanmo, Mokchulmo(目出帽), Adongmokchulmo(兒童目出帽), Pungdongi, and Pungchasamsangun(風遮三山巾). There is little information about hats from the late 1930s to the time of independence because of the censorship of the press. The hats during that period were almost the same as the before that time. There was a new name of a cap, Jeontumoja(戰鬪帽子) which was for a soldier. The hats in that period were one of the westernized items with shoes before the westernization of the Korean costume under Japanese imperialism. Furthermore, the western hats could be spread by the men who were in the center of the society. On the other hand, women's western hats were not common because women had rarely worn them before that period. They just wore traditional winter caps steadily.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권2호
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• pp.291-302
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• 2010

This study details the actual wearing conditions and favored design of ready-made pants for obese women, particularly for those in their twenties and thirties. The actual problems that customers feel and the preferred design of pants were suggested based on the survey and from the standpoint of consumers. The findings of the survey are as follows. The actual wearing conditions in the survey, 80.5% like wearing pants. The main reason to prefer pants is that pants are more convenient for social or professional work activities. The main reason to avoid wearing pants is that the pants (in general) do not mask an obese body shape. The most favored was Denim/Elastic and the second most favored was Cotton/Elastic from the survey. On average, elastic materials are preferred over non-elastic materials. The reason was the comfort in wearing and convenience in social or professional activities that could mask obesity. In terms of the style, the most favored was blue jeans and the second favored was semi-formal. A straight-silhouette is the most favored as it was able to help mask obesity. The most favored position for the waistline is 4 cm lower than the natural waistline. The most favored pant length is where the pants slightly touch the floor when they stand with shoes on. For obese women the pants development that covers the weak points of the body shape giving, which is comfortable and active are desired.

• 한국운동역학회지
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.387-393
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to compare pregnant women's gait parameters and mechanical energies caused by changes in hormone levels and anatomical features such as body mass, body-mass distribution, joint laxity, and musculo-tendinous strength from pregnancy to postpartum. Ten subjects (height: $161{\pm}6.5cm$, mass: $62.7{\pm}10.4\;kg$, $66.4{\pm}9.3\;kg$, $68.4{\pm}7.7\;kg$, $57.2{\pm}7.7\;kg$) participated in the four times experiments (the first, middle, last term and after birth) and walked ten trials at a self-selected pace without shoes. The gait motions were captured with Qualisys system and gait parameters were calculated with Visual-3D. Pregnant women's gait velocities were decreased during the pregnancy periods, but increased after birth. Stride width and cycle time were increased during pregnancy, but decreased after birth. Thigh energy (77.4%) was greater than shank energy (19.06%) or feet (3.54%) about total energy of the lower limbs. Their feet (Left R2=0.881, Right R2=0.852) and shank (Left R2=0.318, Right R2=0.226) energies were significantly increased (positive correlation), but double limb stance time (DLST, R2=0.679) and body total energy (R2=0.138) were decreased (negative correlation) for their velocities. These differences suggest that thigh segment may be a dominant segment among lower limbs, and have something to do with gait velocities. Further studies should investigate joint power and joint work to find energy dissipation or absorption from pregnancy period to postpartum.

• 복식
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• 제63권8호
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• pp.125-142
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• 2013

Soek(Xi) was the highest ranked shoe that was worn with the primary formal dress in East Asian countries including ancient Korea and China. This article examined Joseon's Seok as discussed in previous studies, and it explored factors such as the wearers' status, wearing situations, its morphology, its materials, and its colors in the Great Han Empire period (1897~1910), and then extracted three morphological characteristics of the Korean Seok to examine its origin. The results of the study are as follows. For women, the Seok in the Great Han Empire period was worn with Won-sam(圓衫) and No-eui(露衣) as well as Jeok-eui(翟衣), and hence its range of wearing was extensive. Also, red Seok was worn with deep red colored Dae-sam(大衫)-styled Jeok-eui in the Joseon period(1392~1897), and blue Seok with deep blue Jeok-eui in the Great Han Empire period. This suggests the possibility that wearing of deep blue Jeok-eui occurred after 1906 in terms of the use of blue Seok. As for its morphology, its leg-less form was maintained into the late Joseon period, and there were no great changes in its name. The characteristics of the Korean Seok's morphological structure consisted of a shoe leg, the wood-less bottom and pearl ornament. As a result of the examination of the origin of those characteristics, it has been clarified that the form in which Gu, Eok, Jun(純), are attached in the structure with a shoe leg originated from the combination of Hwa(靴) and Li(履) after the two types of shoes were alternately worn in the Song (宋) period. Also, it was confirmed that the woodless bottom appeared between the periods from Wei Jin Northern and Southern Dynasties(魏晉南北朝) to Sui(隋), and the pearl ornament occurred in the Jin(金) period.