• 패션비즈니스
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• 제22권4호
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• pp.76-92
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to find the meaning of women's fashion in the city culture of Paris in the nineteenth century by examining paintings by the Impressionists. The research method was based on literature survey and visual examination paintings, 224 paintings(by ${\acute{E}}douard$ Manet, James Tissot, Edgar DeGas, Gustave Cailleboat, Jean $B{\acute{e}}raud$, Pierre-Auguste Renoir) were analyzed in this study. The results are as follows: In the nineteenth century, Paris was a new city with new department stores. Department stores were centers of consumer culture, where the power of capital appeared rather than class. The spatial backgrounds of Impressionist paintings were places where they could see the consumption and leisure culture of urban people, such as outdoor parks, cafes, theaters, ballrooms, bars, streets, and the boats. As for the characteristics of women's fashion in paintings, it was found that various changes of artificial silhouettes were developed. Various frills, ruffles, gatherings, and pleats were thought to have been made by machines. In the urban space, many of the women's costumes stood out because of the black color. Not only the black color came to represent widows and mourning but the black outfits worn by women enhanced their sensual appearances. Women's fashion expressed in Impressionist paintings eventually contained a modern meaning that changed from 'class symbol' to 'expression of taste'. And the symbol of consumer and leisure culture showed, and a Demimonde's fashion became a trendsetter, and painters were used as an important element expressing modernity.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.1-16
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• 2020

Hijab as a symbol of women's oppression due to the opening and reform of Islamic State group, is becoming more diverse as younger generation begins to dress more freely than ever before, spreading the perception that it is a fashion item. In response, this research conducted a theoretical review about the history of hijab, various forms of hijab, and characteristics of hijab using relevant literature, media reports, and fashion media articles. As an empirical study, image-oriented photo data shared by Tehran Street Fashion from 2015 to November 2019 were analyzed separately by fashion majors into color, pattern, and hijab-making forms. According to the analysis, six different fashion images were categorized as romantic feminine, modern chic, natural elegant, classic formal, sporty casual and gorgeous ethnic. For Muslim women in the past, hijab was worn as a repressive and closed sense by the religious system. However, in modern times, it is a way to express one's style and ideas as a fashion item. It is also and a means to express one's thoughts and beliefs. Through aesthetic consideration of Hijab as a fashion item, it was found that it was a medium for freedom of expression and a medium for beauty and individuality.

• 복식
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• 제52권8호
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• pp.123-135
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• 2002

The purposes of this study were to observe the influences of Salon culture on fashion, and to understand of 17th-l8th century's costume from a different point of view. The literatures about Salons and costume in 17th-l8th century were considered for this study Salon culture had influenced on women's and men's fashion from 17th 18th century as results. The influences of salon culture on fashion were as follows; At first, it caused radical feminism for women's dress. Women for this period chose their dress to maximize their breast and tight their waist radically to express their beauty. Women were realized as sexual being for the period, then, this caused feminism. The second influence was the Andorgynous of men's dress. Men maximized beautiful decoration, body line on their dress and showed feminine dress style. which caused Andorgynous of men's dress as men and women mutually created new beauty effect. Salon had influences on the birth of new feminine culture and fashion, supplying individual self-control and freedom to women not as aesthetic objects.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권2호
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• pp.342-352
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• 2016

This study examined the fashion culture of 20-30s working women through clothing norm relationships in the workplace. A literature research was conducted along with qualitative research, in-depth interviews in order to understand the domestic working environment and fashion culture such as lifestyle and consumer culture characteristics of 20-30s working women. The results were: First, it showed that the increased number of members having various inclinations caused subcultures through an increase of women's economic activities and transition to a knowledge-information society in domestic work places that changed into a business casual that recognized employees' autonomy and diversity. Second, in the working place, clothing norms coexist as stipulated by statutes, company rules, and official documents as well as others implied by experiences of sanction against members. Workplace closing norms are classified into norms of exposure that draw attention to clothes and casual clothes. Third, it showed that factors pressuring clothing norms are classified as external pressures and by spontaneous self-censorship that cause conflict and confusion with working women's fashion according to the degree of pressure. Two kinds of pressure by others (or types of departments and members) were observed.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권3호
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• pp.99-108
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze the middle-aged British women's apparel purchase behavior. The results of this study can be used to present the tendency of Korean middle-aged women's apparel purchase behavior when they become the old-aged by comparing and analyzing the British women's purchase behavior. We found that they prefer to choose and purchase their clothes by their own decision-making and search for actively the new brands for old age. Strong willingness was showed that their level of consumption amounts for clothing would be the same level between middle-aged and old-aged. It was also presented that they like to see a old-aged fashion model for fashion advertisement rather than a younger one and prefer to use the expression of 'mature' rather than a stereotypical expression such as a silver, gray and gold. The segmentation of fashion market by age can not be simply standardized. We expect that the propensity for clothing purchase behavior pattern of middle-aged women will not be changed and keep the same tendency by the time of their old-aged. We expect that this research results can be used as a basic material for another study and setting up the product developments and marketing strategies.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권8호
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• pp.1275-1287
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• 2006

This was to confirm the Web-SFAS and street Fashion trend 2005. Korea women's street fashion in 2005 S/S was analyzed by using the Web-SFAS(Street Fashion Analysis System) that was developed and completed in the earlier research. Total 270 women who were sensitive to the fashion were surveyed around in 5 nationwide cities and 9 commercial zones. The analysis results of the questionnaire and image survey in 2005 S/S for each commercial zone is shown as follows: 1. The sequence of care with most interest in producing fashionable shape is in the order of clothes>accessory>hair style>make up>shoes, and it was found that the proper reason for visiting the commercial zone is to meet with friends than shopping. 2. Most preferred item for tops were shirts and T-shirts, while for bottoms were blue jeans of denim material in various colors and designs. The color had the clear winner in white color with the pink or yellow line of colors preferred in all commercial zones. The blue jeans and skirt items were the most dominant with the preference on the blue color. The color and image were diversely favored with light, natural, modern, elegance and warm images. 3. The semi-formal image was preferred in women's street fashion, 2005 S/S in Apgujeong-dong, Hapseong-dong, Myeong-dong, Hongik University area, Dongseong-ro, and the active comfort casual image was preferred by womens in Seo-myeon, Nampo-dong and Sangnam-dong. However the retro image were represented in Daehak-ro specially. The tendency of street fashion for women had the difference of their own trends for each commercial zone, rather then the regional differences for each city with the conspicuous preference of color for the items.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.1163-1176
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• 2011

The purposes of this study was to identify characteristics of total coordination in the pursuit fashion sensibility among women their 20's. A self-administered questionnaire was used for data collection from 410 women in their 20's. Data collection was conducted Aug. 5 to Aug. 15, 2009. Most women emphasized on clothing for total coordination and utilized clothing color and style as a selection criteria. They tried to match makeup and clothing, and spent more time considering makeup, hair styles, and fashion accessaries than clothing for their total coordination. Factors of fashion sensibility included luxury and fashion, casualness and ethnicity, modernity, sociality, activity, and sexual attractiveness and women were segmented into fashionably sensible intermediate, low, and high groups according to their fashion sensibility. The fashionably sensible intermediate group predominantly encompassed women who were unmarried or in their late 20's, unemployed, highly educated, or of low economic status, preferred to mixing and matching colors, and who utilized their individuality or makeup color for total coordination. The fashionably sensible low group encompassed homemakers, in their early 20's, high school graduates or university students, who utilized their clothing or hair color within their total coordination criteria. The fashionably sensible high group encompassed unmarried career women in their mid 20's or of high economic status, who spent much money on their clothing, makeup, hair styles, and fashion accessaries, who preferred achromatic, warm or cool colors, and utilized their individuality or fashion color.

• 복식
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• 제51권1호
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• pp.49-59
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• 2001

This study was designed to identify the brand positioning of Infant's wear according to fashion lifestyle of missy women. Cluster analysis on fashion lifestyle classified three groups according to fashion lifestyle factors : Fashion Indifference group(34%), Fashion & Individuality Oriented group(27%), Rationality Oriented group(37% ). The analysis of positioning map with satisfaction of seven brand image attributes (color, design, price, utility, quality brand name, fashion) showed the distance of satisfaction was different among three groups.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.183-196
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• 2016

The purpose of this research is to find out the characteristics of sexuality expressed in the contemporary modern fashion jacket, especially designer Thom Browne. Thom Browne is a very successful fashion brand that has focused on design of extraordinary theme. In the research methodology, the analysis was carried out over a total of 862 work pieces in the collection of S/S, F/W, RESORT, PRE-FALL from 2010 to 2016. The characteristics of the contemporary expressions of sexualities can be subdivided into four separate categories. First, The demolition is inflated retail, exaggerated shoulder silhouettes, such as short sleeve jacket is mainly used in the form of a women's match with each other and expressed by different materials applied to men. Female jackets are designed for the silhouette to highlight the strong masculine image to highlight additional detail on the chest or vice versa, to express women's jacket to distort the female. Secondly, Sensuality is designed the body of a male was represented by a design that gives a greater masculinity was expressed that the interpretation of the male gender in detail jacket sleeves and wrap the exposed areas of the important men of fashion. Women's jacket by using a see-through material, mainly sensory Castle outward to reveal the concealed body of the female form a natural curve shows the feminine sensuality. Lastly, Incongruity is inadequate representation by sex of clothing to match the jacket and skirt in women's wear it is also unsuitable for revealing gender as male by applying soot forms. The study attempts to find the meaning in that this presents the direction of the creative development of the modern fashion design based on the aesthetic characteristics of Thom Browne fashion appearing in the modern fashion.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제1권3호
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• pp.45-59
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• 1997

This study, on the military fashion which has been inspired by the men's military uniform, is composed of an examination of the following; the aspect on the women's hi-fashion and the street fashion and the analysis of it's intention. On hi-fashion, from the 1960s to the early half of the 1970s, by the influence of the minimalism, maintained it's couture style, which is the formal image as well as moderating the line and simplifying the details, From the latter part of the 1970s to the 1980s, mannish image was sensed greatly by the wide shoulders with pads and large silhouette. The 1990's theme was the retro. Many different expression techniques appeared, but the trend was the retro. However, on the streets, young generation and hippies wore unisex army mode because of the influence of anti-war movement. Also, Hell's Angels, punks used black leather jacket with Nazi symbol, badge and eyelet expressed to show their aggressiveness as an avantgarde fashion. The intentions of military fashion can be analyzed as women's amazon need, the feeling of movement, and the spirit of rebellion.