• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권6호
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• pp.879-891
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• 2007

빠른 유행변화와 긴 제조과정으로 인하여 패션업계에서 유행예측은 매우 중요한 과업이며,성공의 열쇠가 된다. 따라서 예측된 스타일이 소비자들에게 수용되어 유행되는 과정은 학문적으로나 산업적으로 매우 중요한 주제이다. 이 연구는 해외 콜렉션에서 예측된 유행스타일들이 한국시장에서 어떻게 수용되는지를 알아보고자 여성복 해외 콜렉션 자료와 서울의 스트리트패션 자료를 02 s/s 시즌부터 05 s/s 시즌까지 7시즌에 걸쳐 비교하였다. 해외 콜렉션 자료는 전문 패션잡지인 Fashion Show에서 수집하였으며, 스트리트 패션자료는 서울패션디자인센터의 자료를 사용하였다. 그 결과 우리나라는 해외 콜렉션에서 나타난 전반적인 트렌드를 잘 수용하고 있으며 특히 이 기간 동안은 스포티 스타일과 페미닌 스타일이 크게 유행하였던 것으로 나타났다. 그러나 해외 콜렉션에서 나타난 스타일이 그대로 수용되기보다는 변형되거나, 일부만이 수용되는 경우가 더 많았으며 이것은 한국사회의 특성과 대량생산에 기인한 것으로 사료된다. 또한 해외 콜렉션에서 제시된 스타일들 중 한국에서는 거의 수용되지 않은 경우도 있었으며, 한편 한국에서만 나타난 스타일과 아이템들도 있었다. 이 연구는 해외 콜렉션 자료를 주 정보원으로 사용하는 국내 의류업체들의 상품기획에 좋은 가이드라인을 제공하고 있으며, 또한 한국 패션시장의 특성을 이해하는데 도움이 되는 실증적인 연구로 의의가 있다.

• 복식
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• 제39권
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• pp.283-299
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• 1998

The present study is to analyze the dimensions of affective responses according to the types of appeal in underwear advertisements and to find out the influences of affective res-ponses on the attitudes toward advertisement and brands. The research has been made by normative-descriptive survey method with the sample of 654 consumers residing in Seoul and Incheon. The data gaathered was analyzed by the methods of means, standard deviation, ANOVA, factor analysis and regression. The result are as follows : 1. There are 4 dimensions of affective responses ; Emotional dimension, Negative dimen-sion, Upbeat-activation dimension and Sexual activation dimension. 2. Affective responses to the advertising were different according to the characteristics of the consumers. According to the consumer's sex, there are significant differences in each dimension of their affective responses. To the sex appeal advertisement, man show higher degree of affective responses in Emotional, Upbeat-activation and Sexual-activation dim-ensions, while women show higher degree of affective responses in Negative dimension. 3. In case of female consumers, there are significant differences in affective responses to the both appeal type of advertisements according to consumer's age. As the age is increasing. Emotional dimension and Sexual-activation dimension are increasing, but Negative dimension is decreasing in the Ads with sex appeal. In particular, the 19∼24s age group shows strong responses in the Emotional dimension, Upbeat-activation dimension and Sexual-activation dimension to Ads with sex appeal, while it shows the lowest affective responses in Negative dimension. It represents the 19-24s age group is the most positive one to the under-wear advertisements with sex appeal. Consequently, it is proved that the Ads with sex appeal focusing on this age group can be one of the most effective advertising plans. 4. The involvement gets higher, Upbeat-ac-tivation dimension and Sexual-activation dimension are increasing both in males and female groups. But Negative dimension is in-creasing in the female consumer group of low involvement. 5. The attitudes toward advertisements and brands are comparatively stronger in the advertisements using sex appeal type. Regardless of types of appeal in the advertisements, there is a significant difference in their attitudes tow-ard Ads between male and female consumer groups. When Ads are sexual, attitudes toward Ads and Brands are stronger in the female consumer group. But males consumers show com-paratively strong attitudes toward the advertis-ements and brands in both types of appeal. 6. The age of consumers doesn't make any significant difference in their attitudes toward advertisements and brands in both types of appeal. 7. According to the involvement level of the consumers, there are significant differences in their attitudes toward advertisements. In the groups of low involvement, the female consumers show more favorite attitudes toward the advertisements with sex appeal, while the male group show more favorite attitudes toward the non-sex appeal advertisement. But there is no significant difference in consumer's attitude toward brands according to the types of appeal of the advertisement. 8. The affective responses of the consumers caused by the underwear advertisements have a respectable influence on their attitudes toward the advertisements and brands. This research represents that the advertisers should try to arise consumer's positive affective responses such as pleasant, happy, cheerful and warm-hearted emotions by the advertisements. Based on the above results of the research, it can be said that the consumer's affective responses have a strong effect not only on their attitudes toward adver-tisements but on those toward attitude toward the brands.

• 복식
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• 제67권3호
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• pp.133-148
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• 2017

The purpose of this paper is to develop waist coat designs that can be worn in the present day by researching design techniques and traditional waist coat forms shown on Korean patchworks called 'Jokakbo', which was commonly used in our traditional culture. By selecting patchwork as the primary motive in particular. The Bojaki, also known as deungguhli or baeguhli(背巨里), gives off a natural and vibrant color sensation. A new design that could be practically worn with modern clothing was developed by sufficiently reflecting this color sensation as well as the aesthetic quality of its geometric shape. On the basis of theoretical consideration of traditional cloth and vest, total of 7 points were designed and produced. These works contain diverse application of the traditional Bojaki and vest. The design of the Bojaki grants rhythmic sense to the side where diverse colors and formative patterns shown on the cloth can be seen as monotonous. The entire side opening of the traditional waistcoat can cover multiple sizes. Depending on the movement, the front and back naturally spreads. The vest can also be worn in layers or used as a cotton quilt depending on the season. And after minimal design alterations, it will be possible to wear the vest with diverse modern clothing due to its straight line and form.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.121-133
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• 2017

This study investigates the design relation between shoulder line and sleeve line for designing bulky silhouettes as well as examines the trend sensitivity and design difference of each city through a comparison of the four cities collection (Paris, Milan, London, and New York). The results are as follows. In the four major fashion capitals, the rates of all-season coats were higher in 2014/15 F/W than those in the 2013/14 F/W season. At the 2014/15 F/W season, the proportion of the bulky silhouette coat, (including the fur and cape coat) increased and confirmed the bulky silhouette fashion trend. Second, an examining of the proportion of bulky silhouette coats manufactured by leading brands in major cities, indicated that London brands readily followed the trend of bulky silhouette coats when compared to other cities. This trend was also accepted by most brands in New York. Most brands in London and New York are highly compliant with the latest fashion trends. Third, the drop shoulder design was mostly presented in the shoulder pit of the bulky coat. In case of the sleeve, the shape of the jar was kept wide at the elbow line and made narrower toward the beak in most bulky silhouette coats. The importance of shoulder and sleeve design is clearly highlighted in the bulky silhouette coat. Fourth, detail design trends were different according to type of sleeve and shoulder fit. The results show the relationship between shoulder and sleeve design.

• 복식
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• 제60권7호
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• pp.103-116
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• 2010

Recently, the art of the Latin America Culture is being actively introduced into our country. Many concepts in the fashion field contain Latin American culture and their influence is growing. This present study, based on a correct understanding of and research on Latin American culture, is an attempt to expand the expression of fashion design and explore the use of works of art in fashion. The case study is on Frida Kahlo (1907~1954), who was a Mexican woman painter who gives us some inspiration in contemporary fashion design. The scope of this case study investigates the Haute couture and the Pr$\hat{e}$t-$\grave{a}$-porter women's wear collections and photos from 1998 to 2009 which were greatly influenced by Frida Kahlo and analyzes through the formative elements of dress, color, form, pattern and material. Frida Kahlo was a painter whose composition of surrealism held the world of life and death, pain and pleasure, love and parting, thought and freedom, and tradition and modern, etc. As a design inspiration, her influence reaches into accessories, and hairstyles, as well as the Pr$\hat{e}$t-$\grave{a}$-porter. This current study for the correct understanding of the new culture and the introduction of art into the fashion design might be helpful in making fashion a work of art and in extending the expression of the fashion design concept which is based on commercial art.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권8호
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• pp.958-968
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to clarify the different mechanical properties of fabrics among the theme groups classified by fashion fabric trend. This study can be useful for fabric marketers and planners to design new products. In order to carry out this study, the fabric samples of representative theme for‘2002/03 F/W fashion fabric trend were collected from a fashion company and were measured to analyze the mechanical properties, hand value(H.V) and total hand value(T.H.V) by KES-FB System. The results were as follows. 1. The theme-A of‘Luxury, Elegance’was consisted of wool, rayon and PET and had a lower B, 2HB of bending properties and a lower G and 2HG5 of shear properties. The theme-B of‘Technical, Functional’was consisted of synthetic fibers such as PET, PA, PU and elastic fiber and had a higher MIU and a lower MMD, SMD of surface properties. The theme-C of‘Vintage, Aged’was consisted of mostly cotton and had the highest B and 2HB. The theme-D of‘Fancy, Airy’was consisted of mostly woolen wool, polyacryl and polyamide and had a high MMD and SMD of surface properties and a high LC and RC of compression properties. 2. As the results of analyzing H.V and T.H.V through KES-FB system, the theme-A showed a higher Smoothness and lower Stiffness. The theme-B had a lower Smoothness, Fullness, Soft feeling and T.H.V and the theme-C had the highest Stiffness. The theme-D showed the highest Fullness and Soft Feeling but the lowest Stiffness.

• 복식
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• 제64권7호
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• pp.29-44
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• 2014

This thesis aims to compare the representative costume patterns of the Chinese Qing dynasty and contemporary $18^{th}$ century French costumes. As a research method, qualitative research was performed to compare and analyze the patterns of the flowers, the birds and pagoda shown in Qing dynasty and France. The results are as follows: The Chinese flower patterns used the embroidery technique for 3-step gradation colors to decorate flowers with less than 10 petals. Also, the forms of the flowers were large and simple in China. The flower patterns of the 18th century France is more similar to those of Qing dynasty than to the traditional French flower patterns. They used the drawing technique for the gradation colors and completed the work by embroidery. In the case of bird patterns, the crane on menswear, and the phoenix on women's wear were applied to signify the symbolic feature of the Chinese symbolism. On the other hand, those in France were used solely for the division of the gender. As a result the clear form of the birds in China contrasted with the unclear forms of birds in France. During the influx of mandarine square to France from China, the application of crane and phoenix according to gender seems to be stressed emphatically without considering their symbolic meaning. In light of the pagoda pattern, Qing dynasty showed interest only in the form of pagoda, denoting the simple two-tier structure without detailed description. Whereas in France, the pagodas were three or four tiers, with gorgeous colors and much more detail than those of Qing dynasty. In conclusion, the main determinants of influences on the patterns of France from China would be forms, colors, constructions and technique of embroidery, along with the disregard for symbolic significance.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제41권5호
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• pp.872-882
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• 2017

There are no specific guidelines on how to control the heat input for the heat generating smart base layer. This study investigated the mode of actuating heat pad attached to the base layer by performing a human wear test in a cold environment. Subjects participating in the test wore T-shirts, jumper and pants on the base layer with heating pads. Skin temperature, total time of heating and the number of switching for the heating mode were observed as the subject controlled the heating mode voluntarily. The comfortable range of skin temperature on the abdomen was larger than on the lower back. The subject felt hot and turned off the switch when the mean skin temperature of the abdomen was $48.8^{\circ}C$ and the lower back was $40.1^{\circ}C$. The total heating time and the number of actuating switching were larger for women than men. The voluntary action of heating for men with high cold sensitivity was significantly different from men with low cold sensitivity. Therefore, it is necessary (depending on gender and cold sensitivity) to set the heating mode differently for the automatic heat control of a future smart base layer.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권3호
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• pp.406-413
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• 2005

This study performed the evaluation of skin temperature, heart rate, temperature and relative humidity of microclimate, and subjective sensation, such as thermal sensation, wet sensation and comfort sensation to estimate physiological responses of the human body and its comfortable feeling to the vitamin E fabric. Experiments were performed on the five healthy adult women whose average age was 21, at climate chamber in which temperature, relative humidity and air current were set up below $30{\pm}\;1^{\circ}C$, $50{\pm}\;15\%$ and 0.2m/s, respectively. Two kinds of clothes were used for experiments: unfinished sports clothes, with the same form and the same size, of short-sleeved knit shirt and long trousers made with $100\%$ cotton, and finished sports clothes printed with the vitamin E solution of the level of $0.88\%$. Exercises of walking (about 105 steps/minute) with the exercise intensity of 2.5 were performed for 20 minutes using treadmill. In result, the study showed significant difference (p<0.01) in average skin temperature between unfinished and finished sport clothes, and represented higher value with having unfinished sport clothes in wear than with finished one. The study also showed significant difference (p<0.01) in heart rate only during the period of exercise, and represented higher value generally with unfinished sport clothes than with finished one. There were significant differences not only in temperature of microclimate (p<0.01) but also in humidity of microclimate (p<0.05) between two sport clothes. As for the evaluation of subjective sensation, the study showed significant difference (p<0.05) in thermal sensation between the two kinds of sport clothes, significant difference in wet sensation only during the period of exercise, and significant difference (p<0.05) in comfort sensation only during the period of recovery.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.77-89
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• 2013

This study investigated the formation of silhouette and hemline shape of knit flare skirts according to the properties of knit material through virtual clothing with a 3D virtual clothing system called i-Designer of Technoa, thus building a database of the property data of knit material to reduce the number of sample making steps repeated and implemented several times in the process of clothes making. The results would help to estimate a silhouette in advance, offer assistance to the development of original knit wear, and explore ways to provide basic data for the development of the knit industry of the nation. The investigator made 12 kinds of experimental clothes to the angles(width of skirt: $90^{\circ}$ and $180^{\circ}$), gauge(7G, 12G, and 15G), and grain directions(wale and bias direction) of experimental clothes for virtual clothing. The dynamic characteristics of knit skirt samples according to each gauge were measured with the KES-FB system. Draper shapes were analyzed with the sectional shape data of hemline based on i-Designer. As for the measurements of the sectional shape of hemline and the formation of silhouette, the number of nodes, the average height of node mountains and valleys, and the hemline width right and left and before and after increased at the angle of $180^{\circ}$ than $90^{\circ}$. As gauges multiplied, the number of nodes, and silhouette angle dropping. When considering grain directions, the number of nodes and silhouette index increased in the wale direction at the angle of $90^{\circ}$ with the number of nodes and silhouette angle increasing in the wale direction at the angle of $180^{\circ}$.