• 한국염색가공학회지
• /
• 제16권5호
• /
• pp.54-61
• /
• 2004

This research surveys the differences of fabric mechanical properties with the different looms and the fabric positions according to the warp and weft yarn tensions on the Vamatex and Omega-Panter looms respectively. For this purpose, the grey fabrics woven by PET filament using two test looms are dyed and finished. The processing shrinkages are measured on each processes such as dryer, scouring, pre-set, dyeing and final-set using the fabric density and width. The mechanical properties of the finished fabrics are measured and discussed with relation to the warp and weft yarn tensions of the two looms and the fabric positions. In addition, the fabric thickness according to the fabric positions such as right, left selvedges and center of the fabrics is also measured and discussed with the characteristics of the Vamatex and Omega-Panter looms.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제43권6호
• /
• pp.891-909
• /
• 2019

This study uses a documentary survey, field survey and textile's characteristics to understand the history of the Punggi Viscose Rayon. Punggi's textile industry grew as people migrated from Pyeongan Province in the 1900s. Little is known regarding early production conditions, but documents show cottage industries in the 1940s made union cloth using silk and rayon. The Punggi weaving industry peaked after the Korean War and declined in the late 1950s. Punggi rayon at that time was mainly used for lingerie or lining, with miliary or polka dot patterns. The industry regained momentum when the power loom was introduced in the 1960s. Manufacturers also started weaving union cloth with synthetic fibers and rayon. In the 1990s, jacquard looms enabled the weaving of elaborately colored and patterned textiles for outer fabric that made Punggi rayon famous. Most Punggi rayon looms have developed in the order of manual handlooms, semiautomatic looms, Jokdapgi, to power looms. Looms equipped with dobbies or jacquard devices also changed from wooden dobby looms to wooden jacquard looms and then to iron jacquard looms. Punggi Rayon currently has its own trademark and tag, but lacks specific regulations on the blending of fibers.

• 한국염색가공학회지
• /
• 제12권1호
• /
• pp.1-11
• /
• 2000

This paper surveys the fabric weavability and machine efficiency in the various weaving looms such as Projectile, Rapiers, and Air-jet. Used projectile loom was Sulzer-PU, and FAST-R, THEMA-11E, and Picanol-GTX were used for Rapier looms, as the Air-Jet looms, Picanol PAT and OMNI types were used. Using these looms, 5 harness worsted satin fabrics were woven for surveying the fabric weavability and machine efficiency. Warp yam count of fabric is 1/40Nm, Sirofil, and filling is 1/30 Nm, worsted. End breaks of warp and filling directions for the various types of looms are measured and discussed with the mechanism of each loom. Warp and filling yam tensions are also measured and analysed with open width of shedding motion of each weaving machine. And various warp yam tensions with open width of shedding are measured and analysed according to the warp yam in various heald frame. These results fire also discussed with temples such as bar and ring. Warp yam tensions at the various positions on the fabric with various looms are measured and discussed with fabric mechanical properties such as tensile, bending, shear and surface.

• 한국정밀공학회지
• /
• 제19권9호
• /
• pp.19-26
• /
• 2002

• 한국염색가공학회지
• /
• 제12권6호
• /
• pp.337-343
• /
• 2000

In this study, the five harness satins are weaved in rapier loom and air-jet loom each using the pure wool Nm 2/72, also the physical characteristics of fabrics that are produced in these weaving machinery in same condition are measured by using the KES-FB system. The results of analysis and comparison on each fabric are presented by classifying items, that is to say, the tensile, bending properties. The results we as follows ; The extensibility of grey fabric woven by rapier in the weft direction is larger than that by air-jet loom. The variation of bending property of grey fabric woven by rapier in the weft direction is more irregular than that by air-jet loom. However, these properties are similar both rapier and air jet fabrics.

• 감성과학
• /
• 제7권4호
• /
• pp.25-33
• /
• 2004

본 연구에서는 경사와 위사의 장력에 기인되는 감성 봉제용 직물의 마찰특성을 KES-FB 계측기를 이용하여 분석하였다. 직물의 마찰특성은 직물표면의 마찰계수, 마찰계수의 평균편차, 그리고 표면요철도를 측정하였다. 이들 표면특성치를 분석하기 위해서 75d/36f PET 필라멘트를 경사로 사용하고 100d/192f PET 필라멘트를 위사로 사용하여 5매 주자직 직물을 Omega와 Picanol 직기에서 각각 제직하고 이들을 같이 연결하여 염색가공 공정을 진행시켰다. 이들 가공된 직물의 직물표면특성은 제직시 측정된 경사와 위사의 장력특성과 함께 분석되어 졌으며 직물의 중앙부위와 양 셀베지 부분의 직물 위치에 따른 표면특성의 차이가 분석되어졌다.

• 감성과학
• /
• 제23권4호
• /
• pp.117-142
• /
• 2020

본 연구는 실크로드의 역사를 다시 조명하여 실크로드의 주역이었던 고조선의 아름다운 실크의 감성을 찾아보고 잘 알려지지 않은 우리의 역사를 알아보고자 한다. 연구 방법은 고서, 서적, 논문, 유적지 발굴 유물들을 분석하는 다양한 접근을 시도하였으며, 유물에 대한 자료는 다양한 서적과 논문 그리고 인터넷을 통해 관련 유물사진들을 수집한 2차적 자료를 분석하였다. 연구문제는 다음과 같다. 첫 번째, 고대 실크로드와 고대 동양에서 발견된 고조선의 경금의 실크 생산 환경을 조사한다. 두 번째, 고조선의 경금의 고도의 제작기술에 대해 조사한다. 본 연구 결과는 다음과 같다. BC 4500년 홍산문화의 동이족으로부터 발견된 옥으로 만든 누에를 통해 고조선의 실크 생산 시기를 추론할 수 있다. 신장자치구 누란, 아스타나, 니야 등에서 경금이 많이 출토되었으며 가장 오래된 경금은 기원전 11세기경으로 서 발해만 고조선의 수도 중 하나였던 조양에서 발굴된 것이다. 서양의 브로케이드 및 다마스크의 기원으로 보이는 경금은 고조선의 수평 사각직기인 제화루기로 고도의 제직기술의 발전된 직기를 통해서 생산되었다. 이와 같은 결과를 통해 고대 실크로드의 특징은 기원전 5-6세기경 발해만 유역의 고조선에서 생산한 경금 견직물이라고 추측할 수 있었다. 한나라의 사직기나 서아시아의 수직직기로 경금 제직이 불가능하며 고조선의 제화루직기과 함께 고도의 제직기술을 통해서만 경금이 탄생될 수 있었다. 이와 같은 연구결과를 토대로 고대의 실크에 관한 역사 연구를 이어나가기 위해 중요한 초석이 될 것이며, 앞으로 고대 실크에 관한 후속 연구에 필요한 기초 자료로 제공되기 바란다.

• 한국염색가공학회지
• /
• 제16권4호
• /
• pp.26-35
• /
• 2004

This study surveys the tension differences between Korean domestic and foreign looms and analyses fabric mechanical properties due to warp and weft tension differences using KES-FB system. Paper is divided by two parts. In this 1st paper, fabric is designed as 5 harness satin weave using 75d/36f warp and 100d/192f weft polyester filaments, and is woven by $Omega^\circledR$ rapier loom by Textec Co.Ltd and Picanol$-GTX^\circledR$ rapier loom by Picanol Co.Ltd respectively. These grey fabrics are processed on the same dyeing and finishing processes. Weavability is also analysed by measuring warp tension variation according to the warp position, the relationship between shed amount and the warp tension on one fixed heald frame is surveyed, and the relationship between end breaks and warp and weft tensions is also discussed.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제7권1호
• /
• pp.101-105
• /
• 2005

This study surveys the warp and weft tension differences between projectile and air-jet looms and analyses the mechanical properties of worsted fabrics for garment with relation of these loom characteristics using KES-FB system. The paper is divided by two parts. In the 1st paper, the worsted fabric is woven as 5 harness satin weave using 1/40 Nm sirofil worsted warp yarn and 1/30 Nm worsted weft yarn by projectile(Sulzer) and air-jet looms(Picanol PAT and OMNI), respectively. The weavability is also analysed by measuring warp tension variation according to the warp position and weft tension of 3 kinds of looms. The relationship between shed amount and the warp tension is surveyed, and the relationship between end breaks and warp and weft tensions is also discussed.

• 연구논문집
• /
• 통권28호
• /
• pp.89-100
• /
• 1998

This paper deals with the design and analysis of a beating cam. The beating device of a high speed rapier loom, weaving fabric by completion of warp-weft patterns, is driven by double cam type on the same axis. As the double cam, coupled with two cams, performs the mutual conjugate motion, the double cam must be very preciously designed for smooth. For the shape design of a double cam, an instant velocity center method is proposed. This method can determine the cam profile from the contact conditions of the cam and roller follower and the velocity relationships at the instant velocity center. And the practical applicability was verified by developing “DISKCAM of a CAD program. As the results in this paper, the shapes of two cams, which are in the conjugate motion, are designed by instant velocity center method. We applied 8-order polynominals for the beating as displace¬ment curves for shape determination of double cams. The data of displacement, velocity, and acceleration of beating cam can be used adjust in accurate operation and to develope an advanced beating device.