• Title/Summary/Keyword: Wave-current model

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Prediction of Wave-Induced Current Using Time-Dependent Wave Model (쌍곡선형 파랑모형을 이용한 해빈류 예측)

  • 김재중;이정만
    • Journal of Korean Port Research
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    • v.12 no.2
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    • pp.269-280
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    • 1998
  • A Wave-induced current model is developed in our study and this model is composed with wave transform model and current model. Two types of wave model are used in our study one is Copeland(1985) type which is applied in the offshore region and the other is Watanabe and Maruyama(1984) type which is applied in the surf zone. The depth-integrated and time-averaged governing equation of an unsteady nonlinear form is used in the wave induced current model. Lateral mixing radiation stresses surface and bottom stresses are considered in our current model. Copeland’s(1976) is used as a surface friction formula. Numerical solutions are obtained by Leendertse scheme and compared with Noda’s(1974) experimental results for the uniform slope coastal region test and Nishimura & Naruyama’s (1985) experimental results and numerical simulation results for the detached breakwater. The results from our wave model and wave model and wave-induced current model show good agreements with the others and also show nonlinear effects around the detached breakwater. The model in this study can be applied in the surf zone considering the friction stresses.

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Prediction Wave Transformation in the Kwangan Beach (광안해역에서의 파랑변형예측)

  • 박정철;김재중;이정만
    • Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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    • 2000.04a
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    • pp.75-81
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    • 2000
  • Water waves propagate over irregular bottom bathymetry are transformed by refraction, diffraction, shoaling, reflection etc. Principal factor of wave transform is bottom bathymetry, but in case of current field, current is another important factor which effect wave transformation. The governing equation of this study is develop as wave-current equation type to investigate the effect of wave-current interaction. This wave-current model was applied to the Kwangan beach which is located at Pusan. The numerical simulation results of this model show the characteristics of wave transformation and flow pattern around the Kwangan beach fairly well.

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Prediction of Wave Transformation in the Kwangan Beach (광안해역에서의 파랑변형예측)

  • 박정철;김재중;김인철
    • Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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    • v.15 no.2
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    • pp.6-10
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    • 2001
  • Water waves propagate over irregular bottom bathymetry are transformed by refraction, diffraction, shoaling, reflection etc. Principal factor of wave transform is bottom bathymetry, but in case of current field, current is another important factor which effect wave transformation. The governing equation of this study is develope as wave-current equation type to investigate the effect of wave-current interaction. It starts from Berkhoff's(1972) mild slope equation and is transformed to time-dependent hyperbolic type equation by using variational principal. Finally the governing equation is shown as a parabolic type equation by splitting method. This wave-current model was applied to the kwangan beach which is located at Pusan. The numerical simulation results of this model show the characteristics of wave transformation and flow pattern around the Kwangan beach fairly well.

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Prediction of Wave-Induced Current Using Time-Dependent Wave Model (쌍곡선형 파랑모형을 이용한 해빈류 예측)

  • 이정만;김재중
    • Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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    • 1998.10a
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    • pp.189-199
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    • 1998
  • Wave-induced current model is developed in our study and this model is composed with wave transform model and current model. Two types of wave model are used in our study, one is Copeland(1985) type which is applied in the offshore region and the other is Watanabe and Maruyama(1984) type which is applied in the surf zone. The depth-integrated and time-averaged governing equation of an unsteady nonlinear form is used in the wave induced current model. Lateral mising, radiation stresses, surface and bottom stresses are considered in our current model. Copeland's(1985) relult is used to calculate radiation stress and Berkmeir & Darlymple's(1976) is used as a surface friction formula. Numerical solutions are obtained by Leendertse scheme and compared with Noda's(1974) experimental results for the uniform slope coastal region test and Nishimura & Maruyama's(1985) experimental relults and numerical simulation results for the detached breakwater test. The results from our wave model show good agreement with the others and also show nonlinear effects around the detached breakwater. Wave induced current model is developed in this study and this model shows nonlinear effects around the detached breakwater and can be applied in the surf zone and also consider the friction stresses.

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Applicability of Boussinesq Models for Wave Deformation and Wave-Induced Current (파랑변형 및 해빈류에 대한 Boussinesq 모형의 적용성 검토)

  • Cho, Young-Jun;Park, Il-Heum
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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    • v.16 no.2
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    • pp.185-193
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    • 2010
  • In the present study, wave deformation and wave-induced current were calculated under the regular wave conditions using the Boussinesq model. The model results of the wave deformation showed good agreements with the preceeding laboratory experiments of others. The wave-induced current of the fully developed sea state was calculated. For field application of model, the preceeding field data by others in the real scale of the water area were compared, the numerical result of wave deformation showed a relatively good agreement with the field data. Although the numerical result of wave-induced current was underestimated over the longshore bar developed area, the Boussinesq model is generally suitable to predict the wave-induced current.

Analysis of Interaction of Jet-like Current and Wave using Numerical Simulation (수치모의를 통한 유사제트-파랑의 상호작용 해석)

  • Choi, Jun-Woo;Bae, Jae-Seok;Roh, Min;Yoon, Sun-Bum
    • 한국전산유체공학회:학술대회논문집
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    • 2008.03b
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    • pp.675-678
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    • 2008
  • The effect of wave and current interactions on jet-like current flowing against waves was investigated based on numerical simulations. The numerical simulations are conducted by a combined model system of REF/DIF(a wave model) plus SHORECIRC(a current model) and a Boussinesq equation model, FUNWAVE. In the simulations, regular and irregular waves refracted due to the jet-like opposing current were focused along the core region of current, and the jet-like current was earlier spreaded when the waves had larger wave heights. The numerical results show that the rapid change of wave height distribution in transverse direction near current inlet plays a significant role to spread the jet-like current. In other words, the gradients of radiation stress forcing in transverse direction have a more significant effect on the jet-like current than its relatively small gradients forcing in flowing direction, which tend to accelerate the current, do. In conclusion, it is indispensible to take into account the interaction effect of wave transformation and current characteristics when waves meet the opposing jet-like current such as river mouth.

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A Study on the Numerical Models of Wave induced Currents (파랑에 의한 연안류의 수치모델에 관한 연구)

  • Lee, Jung-Maan;Kim, Jae-Joong;Park, Jung-Chul
    • Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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    • v.12 no.3 s.29
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    • pp.75-85
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    • 1998
  • A finite difference model for predicting time-dependent, wave-induced nearshore current is studied. The model includes wave refraction, wave-current interaction, bottom friction and wind effect. This model iteratively solved the linear the linear set of conservation of both mass and momentum, which were time averaged (over one wave period) and depth integrated, for mean velocities and free surface displacement. Numerical simulations of nearshore current under oblique wave attack, and for wave and wind induced current on a longshore periodic beach are carried out. Longshore velocities tend to zero in some distances outside the breaker line. And the peak velocity is shifted shoreward at the breaker line. The results represent the general characteristics of the nearshore current induced by wave.

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Prediction of Longshore Current with Set-up/down Effect on a Plane Beach (일정경사 수심단면에서 평균수위의 상승/저하 효과를 고려한 해빈류의 예측)

  • Lee, Cheol-Eung;Kim, Young-Jung;Choi, Han-Kyu
    • Journal of Industrial Technology
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    • v.17
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    • pp.277-289
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    • 1997
  • The numerical model for prediction of longshore current with set-up/down effect on a plane beach is developed using the longshore component of the depth-integrated momentum balance equation. To predict the longshore current, the wave height model should first be formulated because the longshore current depends on the wave height directly. Two wave model, regular wave model and random wave model, are developed based on the energy flux balance equation. Also, the numerical model estimating the set-up inside the shoreline is developed using both the on-offshore momentum equation and the moving boundary technique. The numerical models are verified by the analytical solution, and compared with laboratory data. It is found from the comparison that developed models may be predicted accurately the longshore current with set-up/down effect on a plane beach.

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The Characteristic of Wave Propagation in the Irregular Wave-current field (불규칙파.흐름 공존장에서 파랑변동특성)

  • Lee, Chang-Ho;Kim, Heon-Tae;Ryu, Cheong-Ro;Lee, In-Cheol
    • Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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    • 2003.05a
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    • pp.128-134
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    • 2003
  • Numerical study on interactions of waves and currents has considerable practical interests in coastal and ocean engineering. And wave-current interactions strongly influence wave characteristics, current profiles, and forces on offshore structures. Presence of currents affects wave properties such as wave height and wave profiles. Furthermore, in case of the irregular waves, it is more complicated problem. The propose of present study, using the one-dimensional wave-current numerical model is based on the extended Boussinesq equation(Madsen, 1991) and an alternative form of wave-current dispersion relation(Mohiuddin, 1999, 2000) including wave action concept, is to simulate wave propagation in a current field including the irregular waves and discuss applicability of the model in a wave-current field.

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Numerical Simulation of Irregular Wave Transformation due to Wave-induced Current over a Submerged Elliptic Shoal (수중타원형 천퇴상 불규칙파의 파랑쇄파류에 의한 변형 수치모의)

  • Choi, Jun-Woo;Baek, Un-Il;Yoon, Sung-Bum
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.19 no.6
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    • pp.565-573
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    • 2007
  • The effect of wave and current interactions on irregular wave transformation over a submerged elliptic shoal is investigated based on numerical simulations of the Vincent and Briggs experiment [Vincent, C.L., Briggs, M.J., 1989. Refraction-diffraction of irregular waves over a mound. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 115(2), pp. 269-284]. The numerical simulations are conducted by a combination of REF/DIF S(a wave model) and SHORECIRC(a current model) and a time dependent phase-resolving wavecurrent model, FUNWAVE. In the simulations, the breaking-induced currents defocus waves behind the shoal and bring on a wave shadow zone that shows relatively low wave height distributions. The computed results of the combined model system agree better with the measurements than the computed results obtained by neglecting wave-current interaction do. In addition, the results of FUNWAVE show a good agreement with the measurements. The agreement indicates that it is necessary to take into account the effect of breaking-induced current on wave refraction when wave-breaking occurs over a submerged shoal.