• Title/Summary/Keyword: Wave transformation model

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Shoaling and Breaking Characteristics of Fully Nonlinear Boussinesq Model (완전비선형 Boussinesq 모형의 천수 및 쇄파 특성)

  • YOON JONG-TAE;PARK SEUNG-MIN
    • Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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    • v.19 no.2 s.63
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    • pp.29-33
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    • 2005
  • The accuracy of predicting wave transformation in the nearshore is very important to wave hydrodynamics, sediment transport, and design of coastal structures. Numerical experiments are conducted to identify the shoaling and breaking characteristics of a fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation-based model. Simulated shoaling showed good agreement with the Shouto's formula, and the results of the breaking experiment agreed well with experimented data, over several beach profile.

A study on the wave control function of ecosystem control structures (생태계제어 구조물의 파랑제어 효과에 관한 연구)

  • 김현주;류청로;손원식
    • Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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    • v.10 no.4
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    • pp.149-159
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    • 1996
  • Multipurpose development of the coast and ocean can be considered as multifunction construction combining the functions of coastal protection, waterfront amenity and creation or rehabilitation of habitats. Multfunction development of coastal and ocean spaces can be accomplished by applying the ecosystem control structure of artificial habitats which will cultivate fishing ground with ecological harmony to the coastal protection system. To evaluate the applicability of ecosystem control structures as as fundamental coastal protection structure, wave control function of the structure is studied by numerical and physical analyses. Dimensional analysis and hydraulic experiment point out the importance of width and crest depth of ecosystem control structure, construction water depth and wave steepness. Wave control efficiency is estimated by the attenuation coefficient $(K_H)$ according to wave steepness $(H_0/L_0)$, relative constructed water depth $(h_i/H_0)$, relative berm width $(B/L_0)$ and relative crest depth $(h_B/H_0)$ of eosystem control structure. Empirical fomulas are suggested based on the results of model test by applying the multiple model based on this experimental results and numerical wave shoaling-dissipation-breaking model appears to be valid for the analysis of wave transformation around ecosystem control structure in the coastal waters.

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Analysis of Interaction of Jet-like Current and Wave using Numerical Simulation (수치모의를 통한 유사제트-파랑의 상호작용 해석)

  • Choi, Jun-Woo;Bae, Jae-Seok;Roh, Min;Yoon, Sun-Bum
    • 한국전산유체공학회:학술대회논문집
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    • 2008.03b
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    • pp.675-678
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    • 2008
  • The effect of wave and current interactions on jet-like current flowing against waves was investigated based on numerical simulations. The numerical simulations are conducted by a combined model system of REF/DIF(a wave model) plus SHORECIRC(a current model) and a Boussinesq equation model, FUNWAVE. In the simulations, regular and irregular waves refracted due to the jet-like opposing current were focused along the core region of current, and the jet-like current was earlier spreaded when the waves had larger wave heights. The numerical results show that the rapid change of wave height distribution in transverse direction near current inlet plays a significant role to spread the jet-like current. In other words, the gradients of radiation stress forcing in transverse direction have a more significant effect on the jet-like current than its relatively small gradients forcing in flowing direction, which tend to accelerate the current, do. In conclusion, it is indispensible to take into account the interaction effect of wave transformation and current characteristics when waves meet the opposing jet-like current such as river mouth.

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Application and Analysis of the Steady State Spectral Wave Model for Coastal Waters at Busan New Port Site (부산신항만수역에서 정상상태 스펙트럼 파랑모델의 적용 및 분석)

  • 이학승;이우철;황호동;양상용;이중우
    • Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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    • 2003.05a
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    • pp.157-164
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    • 2003
  • Introduction of wave model, considered the effect of tide, wind and wave induced currents at the coastal waters of complex bathymetry, is a very important factor for most coastal engineering design and disaster protection problems. As the steady state spectral wave model could simulate depth induced wave shoaling and refraction, current induced refraction effect, steepness induced wave breaking, diffraction, wind wave growth, and wave-wave interaction that redistribute energy, this would support and compensate the gap in the real field of design where other wave models could not deal and cause wrong estimation. In this study, for that sense, we applied the spectral wave model t the large coastal waters near Gaduck Island where the Busan new port construction project is going on, for better understanding and analysis of wave transformation process. We also compared the simulation results with the calculated from the existing model. From such a trial of this study, we hope that broader and sager use of the spectral model in the area of port design and disaster prevention system come through in near future.

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Analysis of the Hydraulic Behaviour in the Nearshore Zone by a Numerical Model (수치모형에 의한 연안해역 해수운동의 분석)

  • Lee, Hee-Young;Jeoung, Sun-Kil
    • Water for future
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    • v.27 no.2
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    • pp.73-83
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    • 1994
  • The unproper development of the nearshore zone can enhance the diffusion of pollutant in the nearshore zone resulting in unbalanced sediment budget of beach which causes alteration of beach topography. Therefore, it is required to predict the effects of the envirnmental change quantitatively. In this paper, the depth-averaged and time-averaged energy balance equation is selected to acount for the wave transformation such as refraction, shoaling effect, the surf zone energy disipation, wave breaking index and bore, due to wave breaking in the shore region.(Numerical solutions are obtained by a finite difference method, ADI and Upwind. For the calculation of the wave-induced current, the unsteady nonlinear depth-averaged and time-averaged governing equation is derived based on the continuity and momentum equation for imcompressible fluid.) Numerical solutions are obtained by finite difference method considering influences of factors such as lateral mixing coefficient, bed shear stress, wave direction angle, wave steepness, wave period and bottom slope. The model is applied to the computation of wave transformation, wave-induced current and variation of mean water leel on a uniformly sloping beach.

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Correction Factor for Assessment of Nearshore Wave Energy (근해 파력에너지 산정을 위한 보정 기법에 관한 연구)

  • Kim, Gunwoo;Jeong, Weon Mu;Jun, Kicheon;Lee, Myung Eun
    • 한국신재생에너지학회:학술대회논문집
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    • 2011.05a
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    • pp.164.1-164.1
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    • 2011
  • Previously, many researchers assessed nearshore wave energy in two ways. The first is a simulation with respect to the offshore wave time series to validate the wave buoy data and the wave model results, and the other is to simulate the representative waves of typical seasonal wave conditions. The former requires enormous computational time and effort. The latter yields inspection on the patterns for the spatial and temporal distribution of nearshore wave energy but tends to underestimates the amount of wave energy in the nearshore region owing to the correlation between the significant wave height and wave period. $\ddot{O}$zger et al. (2004) derived the stochastic wave energy formulation by introducing a correction factor explicitly in terms of the covariance of the wave energy and significant wave height. In this study, a correction factor was applied for the assessment of nearshore wave energy obtained by numerical simulation of wave transformation with respect to representative waves.

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Calculation of the Wave Height Distribution in the Vicinity of Ulsan waters using the Observed Date of Typhoon Maemi (태풍 ‘매미’ 내습시 관측자료를 이용한 울산 해역의 파고 분포 산출)

  • Kim, Kang-Min;Kim, Jong-Hoon;Ryu, Ha-Sang;Jeong, Weon-Mu
    • Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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    • v.31 no.6
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    • pp.479-484
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    • 2007
  • For calculation of wave field for design of coastal and port structures, generally the wind fields from inland observation record or the predicted waves from deep water wave transformation model are being used. However, for the first case, as we should revise the wave data adopting correcting parameters depending on the distance from the coast and location, it is difficult to extract water waves from wind field. Furthermore, for the second case, because of the calculation which executed under very large grid sizes in the wide domain, the simulation(wave transformation) implied uncertainty in the near shore area and shallow region. So it's difficult to obtain exact data from the simulation. Thus, in this study the calculation of wave field on shallow water is accomplished using the observed data of typhoon 'Maemi' in the Korea Eastern South sea. Moreover, for the accuracy of the calculated wave field, we compared and studied the observed data of wave height and direction on the vicinity of the Ulsan waters. It is proved that the results of this study is more accurate than the existing method with showing ${\pm}1.3%$ difference between observed and calculated wave height distribution in Ulsan waters

Analysis of Impact Factors for the Wave Transmission in the Narrow Channel Sea (수로형 해역에서의 파랑전달에 미치는 영향인자 분석)

  • Lee, Gyong-Seon;Yoon, Han-Sam;Ryu, Cheong-Ro;Park, Jong-Hwa
    • Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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    • 2003.10a
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    • pp.303-308
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    • 2003
  • In this paper, wave numerical modeling was experimented for the analysis of impact factors for the wave transmission as the incident wave and topographic conditions in the narrow channel sea. Recently, Although the results of many researcher for the wave modelling, numerical equations have limited to simulation of wave transformation effects. Despite of thispresent problems, the models was used to design the coastal structures in barrow channel sites. Finally, this paper estimated the wave model(mild slope eq. model) as the analysis of the wave energy transmission according to changing of impact factors(width of channel, bottom slope in channel, incident wave angle, wave period). As the results of numerical experiment, the major impact factors which influence to wave energy transmission were the width of channel and incident wave direction. But in the case that the width of channel is larger than 3L(L=Length of wave), the reduction of wave energy was small.

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Analysis of the Transformation of the Heroic Narrative in Successful Korean Wave Drama : Focusing on the TV Drama "Descendants of the Sun" (성공 한류 드라마에 나타난 영웅서사의 변용 분석 : TV드라마 <태양의 후예>를 중심으로)

  • Park, Kyung-Min;Lee, Kang-jin
    • Review of Culture and Economy
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    • v.20 no.1
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    • pp.81-104
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    • 2017
  • This study aims to examine the transformation of the heroic narrative in the successful Korean Wave drama. In this study, TV drama "Descendants of the Sun" which gained tremendous popularity at home and abroad was considered to be an example of the heroic narrative model proposed by Vogler. Further, two analysis points were identified as the critical factor of success: modern transformation and global transformation. Modern transformation is about distinct characteristics of Korea, found in three primary factors of the work: the setting up of a character, the development of events and the background set-up. Global transformation features universal value to attract foreign viewers by lowering cultural discount. In "Descendants of the Sun", humanism is considered to broaden the horizon of the work by affecting above three factors. In conclusion, It is the proper combination of these dual transformations that globalize Korean drama. In this regard, this study will be a meaningful attempt to shed light on the storytelling strategy of Korean dramas in terms of the heroic narrative.

Wave Transformation in the Intersecting Wave Trains (2방향 파랑하에서 파의 변형)

  • 김경호;조재희;윤영호
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.7 no.4
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    • pp.313-320
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    • 1995
  • A numerical analysis on the wave deformation in the shallow water region is performed for the case of two intersecting wave trains of the same frequency on uniformly sloping beaches. This model is based on the consideration of wave energy balance and wave action conservation, and iteratively solved the set of conservation equations of both mass and horizontal momentum. Using the computed results, the wave deformations in accordance with the variation of the parameters luck as incident wave angie and wave height in deep water which influences the variation of wave hight and mean water level under the intersecting wave trains in the shallow water region. are considered.

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