• Title/Summary/Keyword: Wave steepness

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Characteristics of Wave Attenuation with Coastal Wetland Vegetation (연안 습지식생에 의한 파랑감쇠 특성)

  • Lee, Seong-Dae
    • Journal of Wetlands Research
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    • v.18 no.1
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    • pp.84-93
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    • 2016
  • As a transition region between ocean and land, coastal wetlands are significant ecosystems that maintain water quality, provide natural habitat for a variety of species, and slow down erosion. The energy of coastal waves and storm surges are reduced by vegetation cover, which also helps to maintain wetlands through increased sediment deposition. Wave attenuation by vegetation is a highly dynamic process and its quantification is important for understanding shore protection and modeling coastal hydrodynamics. In this study, laboratory experiments were used to quantify wave attenuation as a function of vegetation type as well as wave conditions. Wave attenuation characteristics were investigated under regular waves for rigid model vegetation. Laboratory hydraulic test and numerical analysis were conducted to investigate regular wave attenuation through emergent vegetation with wave steepness ak and relative water depth kh. The normalized wave attenuation was analyzed to the decay equation of Dalrymple et al.(1984) to determine the vegetation transmission coefficients, damping factor and drag coefficients. It was found that drag coefficient was better correlated to Keulegan-Carpenter number than Reynolds number and that the damping increased as wave steepness increased.

Two and Three Dimensional Analysis about the Reflection Coefficient by the Slit Caisson and Resulting Wave Pressure Acting on the Structure (슬리트케이슨제에 의한 반사율과 구조물에 작용하는 파압에 관한 2차원 및 3차원해석)

  • Lee, Kwang-Ho;Choi, Hyun-Seok;Baek, Dong-Jin;Kim, Do-Sam
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.22 no.6
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    • pp.374-386
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    • 2010
  • Recently, the theoretical and experimental research is being made actively in control character of waves of perforated-wall caisson breakwater like the slit caisson. This study showed that the character of reflection coefficient and the wave pressure acting on the front and inner of slit caisson were estimated in two and three dimensional numerical wave flume and compared each other. The numerical experiment was set and conducted by various cases as to a variety of wave steepness under 7 sec, 9 sec, 11sec and 13 sec period condition. In this study using a 2 and 3 dimensional numerical wave flume, it applied the Model for the immiscible two-phase flow based on the Naveir-Stokes Equations. This technique can easily reproduce a complicated physical phenomenon more than others and organize the program simply. According to the results of the experiment, the reflection coefficient was estimated high in short-period waves. However, 2-dimensional numerical experiment and 3-dimensional numerical experiment were the same in case of the long-period waves and high wave steepness. And to conclude in case of short-period waves the pressures were a relatively small difference between the two, but there was a big gap in longperiod waves and high wave steepness.

The Experimental Study of Distribution Characteristics of Lift-force Acting under Pier Deck (잔교상판(棧橋床板)에 작용(作用)하는 양압력(揚壓力) 분포특성(分布特性)에 관한 실험적(實驗的) 연구(硏究))

  • Park, Sang Kil;Park, Hyun Soo;Ahn, Ik Seong;Kim, Woo Saeng
    • KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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    • v.29 no.1B
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    • pp.83-90
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    • 2009
  • This study describes the characteristics of distribution of lift-force acting under pier deck through physical experiment. The shape of peak wave pressure was sharp when compressed air existed but was not sharp without that. Values of lift-force was different between edge point and center point in the same block. Distribution of lift-force was expressed differently owing to dimensionless of deck length (l/L), wave steepness (H/L), clearance height per wave height (D/H). The dimensionless factor of D/H affected on the lift-force the clearance between still water surface and decks. This decided the maximum of lift-force. In the case of the same values of D/H, the lift-force are changed by the wave steepness (H/L). Because (D/H) become smaller as the wave steepness (H/L) is increased the height of decks must be decided with the condition which don't have the clearance with $D_{max}$ for the stable design of deck of pier. Effect of reducing lift force was greater in the on-shore than the off-shore according to compressed air existence. This researches points out that design of deck should retain compressed air in order to reduce wave lift force.

Run-up and Overtopping of Waves on Slopes of Rubble-Mound Breakwaters (사석 경사식 방파제에서의 파랑의 처오름높이와 월파)

  • Lee, Seung-Hyeob;Woo, Jong-Hyub;Cho, Yong-Sik
    • Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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    • v.38 no.11
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    • pp.947-954
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    • 2005
  • In this study, laboratory measurements are presented for run-up heights and overtopping of water waves on slopes of rubble-mound breakwaters armored with tetrapods. The effects of wave steepness, surf similarity and wave period on the run-up height and overtopping are investigated in detail. A measurements. A very reasonable agreement is observed. A slopes of breakwaters become milder, run-up heights become smaller. The overtopping rate also is considerably rate also is considerably affected by wave steepness and period.

Comparative study on the prediction of speed-power-rpm of the KVLCC2 in regular head waves using model tests

  • Yu, Jin-Won;Lee, Cheol-Min;Seo, Jin-Hyeok;Chun, Ho Hwan;Choi, Jung-Eun;Lee, Inwon
    • International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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    • v.13 no.1
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    • pp.24-34
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    • 2021
  • This paper predicts the speed-power-rpm relationship in regular head waves using various indirect methods: load variation, direct powering, resistance and thrust identity, torque and revolution, thrust and revolution, and Taylor expansion methods. The subject ship is KVLCC2. The wave conditions are the regular head waves of λ/LPP = 0.6 and 1.0 with three wave steepness ratios at three ship speeds of 13.5, 14.5 and 15.5 knots (design speed). In the case of λ/LPP = 0.6 at design speed, two more wave steepness ratios have been taken into consideration. The indirect methods have been evaluated through comparing the speed-power-rpm relationships with those obtained from the resistance and self-propulsion tests in calm water and in waves. The load variation method has been applied to predict propulsive performances in waves, and to derive overload factors (ITTC, 2018). The overload factors have been applied to obtain propulsive efficiency and propeller revolution. The thrust and revolution method (ITTC, 2014) has been modified.

Energy Dissipation and Transfer among Wave Components during Directional Breaking Processes (다방향 쇄파 발생 전후의 파랑 성분간 에너지 전이 및 소산)

  • 홍기용;에스똘히오메자
    • Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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    • v.17 no.6
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    • pp.1-6
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    • 2003
  • Wave energy dissipation and energy transfer between wave components, during the directional wave breakings, are investigated. Directional incipient and plunging breakers were generated by focusing the multi-frequency and multi-directional wave components at a designed location, based on a constant wave amplitude and a constant wave steepness frequency spectrum. The time series of surface wave elevation was measured at 9 different locations around the wave focusing point, using a wave gauge array. In order to examine the variation of the directional spreading function, the horizontal velocity of fluid motion was also measured. By comparing energy spectrums, before and after the breaking, the characteristics of energy dissipation and energy transfer, caused by wave breaking, are investigated. Their dependencies on directionality, as well as frequency, are analyzed. The breakings significantly dissipate wave energy, through energy transfer, in the upper region of the peak-frequency band, while enhancing wave energy in the low-frequency band.

An Experimental Study on Wave Focusing Efficiency in the Generation of Directional Extreme Waves (파랑집중에 의한 다방향 극한파 생성의 효율성에 관한 실험적 연구)

  • 홍기용;류슈쉐;양찬규
    • Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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    • v.16 no.5
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    • pp.1-6
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    • 2002
  • Extreme waves are generated in a model basin based on directional wave focusing. The targeted wave field is described by double summation method and it is applied to serpent-type wavemaker system. The extreme crest amplitude at a designed location is obtained by syncronizing the phases and focusing the directions of wave components. Two distinguished spectrums of constant wave amplitude and constant wave steepness are adapted to describe the frequency distribution of component waves. The surface profile of generated wave packets is measured by wave guage array and the effects of dominant spectral parameters governing extreme wave characteristics are investigated. It is found that frequency bandwidth, center frequency, shape of frequency spectrum and directional range play a significant role in the wave focusing. In particular, the directional effect significantly enhances the wave focusing efficiency.

Research on Wave Kinematics & Wave Loads in Breaking Wave (쇄파의 유동구조 및 쇄파력에 대한 연구)

  • LEE BYEONG-SEONG;JO HYO-JAE;GOO JA-SAM;KANG BYUNG-YOON
    • Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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    • 2004.11a
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    • pp.96-101
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    • 2004
  • When the wind blows hard, most waves are breaking in sea. Breaking waves occur, exceeding limitation of wave steepness(wave height/wave length=l/7). Because a wave of single angular frequency couldn't generate the breaking phenomena at two dimensional ocean engineering basin, the breaking wave can be generated by the superposition of waves with various angular frequencies. We research how are the particle kinematics in the breaking wave and the magnitude of the breaking wave exciting force. We compare the force in a regular wave which has same specifications(wave height, period and length) as the breaking wave. Also the experimental results of wave exciting force and particle velocity are investigated by comparison on the analytic results using the potential theory.

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Experimental Study of Deep-Water Wave Instability : Part 2. Evolution of The Initially-Modulated Wave Train (심해파의 불안정성에 관한 실험 연구 -제2부 : 초기변형파의 불안정성)

  • Cho, Won Chul
    • KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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    • v.13 no.1
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    • pp.203-211
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    • 1993
  • Experiment on the instability and breaking of the initially modulated deep-water wave train (in wave amplitude or in wave frequency) is performed to investigate the effect of the initial modulation on nonlinear wave evolution. Wave amplitude and frequency modulations are developed earlier and larger than in the case of the uniform deep-water wave trains. However, for small wave steepness in the initially amplitude-modulated wave train, the wave train becomes demodulated and nearly returns to the original wave form at the end of the wave evolution far downstream from the breaking region, with energy returning to the fundamental wave frequency.

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Computation of the inviscid drift force caused by nonlinear waves on a submerged circular cylinder

  • Koh, Hyeok-Jun;Cho, Il-Hyoung
    • International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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    • v.3 no.3
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    • pp.201-207
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    • 2011
  • In this paper, we focused on computing the higher-harmonic components of the transmitted wave passing over a submerged circular cylinder to show that it is causing a horizontal negative drift force. As numerical models, a circular cylinder held fixed under free surface in deep water is adopted. As the submergence of a circular cylinder decreases and the incident wavelength becomes longer, the higher-harmonic components of the transmitted wave starts to increase. An increase of the higher-harmonic components of the transmitted wave makes the horizontal drift force be negative. It is also found that the higher-harmonic amplitudes averaged over the transmitted wave region become larger with the increase of wave steepness and wavelength as well as the decrease of submergence depth.