• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.23-60
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• 2016

The major objective of this study was to develop further understanding of 3D nearshore hydrodynamics under a variety of wave and tidal forcing conditions. The main tool used was a comprehensive 3D numerical model - combining the flow module of Delft3D with the WAVE solver of XBeach - of nearshore hydro- and morphodynamics that can simulate flow, sediment transport, and morphological evolution. Surf-swash zone hydrodynamics were modeled using the 3D Navier-Stokes equations, combined with various turbulence models (${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$, ${\kappa}-L$, ATM and H-LES). Sediment transport and resulting foreshore profile changes were approximated using different sediment transport relations that consider both bed- and suspended-load transport of non-cohesive sediments. The numerical set-up was tested against field data, with good agreement found. Different numerical experiments under a range of bed characteristics and incident wave and tidal conditions were run to test the model's capability to reproduce 3D flow, wave propagation, sediment transport and morphodynamics in the nearshore at the field scale. The results were interpreted according to existing understanding of surf and swash zone processes. Our numerical experiments confirm that the angle between the crest line of the approaching wave and the shoreline defines the direction and strength of the longshore current, while the longshore current velocity varies across the nearshore zone. The model simulates the undertow, hydraulic cell and rip-current patterns generated by radiation stresses and longshore variability in wave heights. Numerical results show that a non-uniform seabed is crucial for generation of rip currents in the nearshore (when bed slope is uniform, rips are not generated). Increasing the wave height increases the peaks of eddy viscosity and TKE (turbulent kinetic energy), while increasing the tidal amplitude reduces these peaks. Wave and tide interaction has most striking effects on the foreshore profile with the formation of the intertidal bar. High values of eddy viscosity, TKE and wave set-up are spread offshore for coarser grain sizes. Beach profile steepness modifies the nearshore circulation pattern, significantly enhancing the vertical component of the flow. The local recirculation within the longshore current in the inshore region causes a transient offshore shift and strengthening of the longshore current. Overall, the analysis shows that, with reasonable hypotheses, it is possible to simulate the nearshore hydrodynamics subjected to oceanic forcing, consistent with existing understanding of this area. Part II of this work presents 3D nearshore morphodynamics induced by the tides and waves.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.44-50
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• 2016

An experimental study was performed to investigate the behavior of green water on a structure with a rectangular cross section under wave conditions, along with the flow characteristics in bubbly water flow. An experiment was conducted in a two-dimensional wave flume using an acrylic model (1/125) of FPSO BW Pioneer operating in the Gulf of Mexico under its design wave condition. The occurrence of green water, including its development, in front of the model was captured using a high-speed Charge Coupled Device (CCD) camera with the shadowgraph technique. Using consecutive images, the generation procedure for green water on the model was divided into five phases: flip through, air entrapment, wave run-up, wave overturning, and water shipping. In addition, the distinct water elevations of the green water were defined as the height of flip through, height of splashing jet, and height of freeboard exceedance, and showed a linear relationship with the incoming wave height.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.30-38
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• 2009

In recent years, there's been strong demand for coastal structures that have a permeability that serves water affinity and disaster prevention from wave attack. The aim of this study is to examine the wave transformation, including wave run-up that propagates over the coastal structures with a steep slope. A numerical model based on the nonlinear shallow water equation, together with the unsteady nonlinear Darcy law for fluid motion in permeable underlayer and laboratory measurements was carried out in terms of the free surface elevations and fluid particle velocities for the cases of regular and irregular waves over 1:5 impermeable and permeable slopes. The numerical results were used to evaluate the application and limitations of the PBREAK numerical model. The numerical model could predict the cross-shore variation of the wave profile reasonably, but showed less accurate results in the breaking zone that the mass and momentum influx is exchanged the most. Except near the wave crest, the computed depth averaged velocities could represent the measured profile below the trough level fairly well.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.18-24
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• 2010

Submerged rubble structures include artificial reef and the mound part of the rubble mound breakwater. Artificial reef is a type of the submerged wave absorbing structure installed in a coastal zone to prevent beach erosion and designed to initially reduce the energy of incoming waves so that its run-up height and overtopping quantity can be decreased. In order to ascertain the stability of such submerged rubble structures, minimum weight of the rubble has to be calculated first from the incoming wave height using Hudson's formula or Brebner-Donnelly formula. Based on the calculated minimum weight, a model is built for use in a hydraulic model test carried out to check its stability. The foregoing two formulas used to calculate the minimum weight are empirically derived formulas based on the result of the tests on the rubble mound breakwater and it is, therefore, difficult for us to apply them directly in the calculation of the minimum weight of the submerged structures. Accordingly, this study comes up with a numerical simulation method capable of deformation analysis for rubble structures. This study also tries to identify the deformation mechanism of the submerged rubble structures using the numerical simulation. The method researched through this study will be sufficient for use for usual preparations of the design guidelines for submerged rubble structures.

• Journal of Korean Society of Environmental Engineers
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• v.27 no.10
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• pp.1030-1034
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to clarify the penetration behavior of particulate matters by wave and tidal actions in sandy beach located in enclosed bay and to evaluate the effect of stranded oil on penetration of particulate matters. Experiments were rallied out using a model sandy beach facility. The particulate matters penetrated into saturated sediments by wave action from breaking wave run-up point with a semi-circular forming in low energy beach as enclosed bay. On the other hand, the penetration velocity of the particulate matters was to be faster according to the increase of slope and breaking wave height. The particulate matters by tidal action penetrated into the sediments at an angie of 45 degrees in the direction of porous water flow. The stranded oil completely blocked the penetration of the particulate matters into the sediments. These results indicate that the penetrated oil prevents the penetration of the particulate matters into the sediments and, therefore, results in the reduction in the supply of plankton, bacteria and organic detritus for the benthic organisms in the sandy beach.

• Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.98-111
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• 1993

Two-dimensional nonlinear free-surface wave problems are analyzed with consideration of viscosity. Navier-Stokes equation and continuity equation are solved by the application of Finite Analytic Method, and MAC scheme is used far the treatment of free surface. Surface tension effect is also considered and laminar flow is assumed. The free-surface waves in shallow water, the flows around a vortex-pair with free surface and the wave ahead of a rectangular body are simulated to test the present numerical scheme. In the shallow water problem, viscous effect due to the friction on the bottom is observed. In the second problem, the approach of a vortex-pair to the free surface is simulated to examine the interaction of vortex-pair with the free surface. In the third problem, the wave ahead of a semi-infinite floating body is simulated.

• Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.53 no.1
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• pp.1-9
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• 2016

It is important to research and understand the physical phenomenon around a semi-submersible offshore structure on waves and currents because the wave run-up and load occurs owing to the waves and currents. In this study, the numerical simulations are performed about flow around a fixed semi-submersible offshore structure. The Modified Marker-density method is adopted in the present computation procedure, this method is one of the various methods to define the free-surface. The present computation results are compared with existing experimental and numerical simulation(VOF method) results. And, the computation results are relatively coincident with the existing results of model test and numerical simulation by VOF method.

• Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.39 no.4
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• pp.32-41
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• 2002

Present study aims to investigate draft effects on hydro-elastic response of pontoon type VLFS(Very Large Floating Structure). A three dimensional higher-order boundary element method(HOBEM: Hong et al;1999, Choi, Hong and Choi; 2001) is extended to analyze elastic response of structures. Intensive numerical calculations were carried out for box type structure to investigate the draft effect on hydrodynamic forces on pontoon type VLFS. Main attention was paid to wave run-up along the waterline for various cases of draft scantling. It is found that the draft effects on the hydro-elastic response of pontoon type VLFS are important especially in short wave range and shallow water region.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.31 no.2
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• pp.81-90
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• 2017

The 1MW OTEC (Ocean Thermal Energy Conversion) platform was designed for application in equatorial seas. In this study, the OTEC platform was investigated using numerical and experimental methods. An octagon-shaped OTEC platform was investigated using the Ocean Engineering Basin of KRISO. These experiments included various tests of regular waves, irregular waves and irregular waves with current (wave+current). The responses of the platform in regular waves showed good agreement between the numerical and experimental results, including the motion RAO, wave run up, and mean drift force. The peak period of heave and pitch motions were observed around 0.5 rad/s, and the effect of the total reflection was found under short wave conditions. The standard deviation (STD) of the platform motion was checked in irregular waves of equatorial and Hawaiian seas. The STD of the pitch was less than $4^{\circ}$ different from the operability requirement under equatorial conditions and the surge STD of the wave frequency showed good agreement between the numerical and experimental results. The STD values of the surge and pitch were increased 66.6% and 92.8% by the current effects in irregular waves, but the pitch STD was less than $4^{\circ}$ under equatorial conditions. This study showed that the STD of the surge was affected by spring effects. Thus, the watch circle of the platform and tension of the mooring lines must be evaluated for a specific design in the future.

• 한국방재학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2007.02a
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• pp.168-171
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• 2007

The stability of a typical rubble mound breakwater defenced by a submerged structure is investigated using hydraulic experiments. Incident irregular waves are obtained from the Bretschneider-Mistuyasu spectrum. Experiments are carried out for different spacings between two breakwaters (X/d=2-3) and for different relative widths (B/h=0.7-3.0) of the submerged structure. It is observed that a submerged structure of (B/h) of 0.7-3.0 constructed at a seaward distance (X/d) of 2-3 breaks all the incident waves and dissipates energy and breakwater.