• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.5 no.4
• /
• pp.357-368
• /
• 1993

With the assumption of the diffusion dominated flow, a numerical model has been developed for undertow and turbulence structure under the breaking wave by using the $textsc{k}$-$\varepsilon$ turbulence model. Undertow is a strong mean current which moves seqwards below the level of wave trough in the surf zone. The turbulence, generated by wave breaking in the roller, spreads and dissipates downwards. The governing equations are composed of the equation of motion with the period-averaged shear stress due to waves; $textsc{k}$- and $\varepsilon$-equations with the turbulence energy Production due to wave breaking. They are discretised by the three-level fully implicit scheme, which can be solved by using Thomas algorithm. The model gives good agreements with measurements except for the station that is closest to the breaking point.

• Journal of Korean Elementary Science Education
• /
• v.35 no.4
• /
• pp.389-405
• /
• 2016

The purpose of this study was to analyze elementary school teachers' understanding, certainty, and familiarity with 13 key concepts of wave physics that are presented in textbook and teacher's guidebook. 123 elementary school teachers answered concept tests and questionnaires. In the results to these tests and questionnaires, teachers demonstrated a high level of understanding and high certainty in understanding with regard to the concepts of sound generation, effect of medium on wave, timbre, wavelength, and trough and crest of wave. For the topics of sound velocity, wave reflection and wave transmission, teachers demonstrated a high level of understanding but low certainty in understanding. With regard to sound propagation, teachers demonstrated a low level of understanding and an improperly high certainty in that low understanding. Teachers lacked knowledge, i.e., displayed a low level of understanding and low certainty in sound strength, sound frequency, constructive interference and destructive interference. In constructive and destructive interference, the teachers also displayed a low level of familiarity. We analyzed the differences in teacher's understanding, certainty, and familiarity according to teacher demographics defined by the teacher's gender, teaching experience with concepts of sound, career, curriculum track while in high school, and major in university. There were no significant differences in understanding, certainty, or familiarity as defined by gender, teaching experience, and career. However, these displays of knowledge were affected by the teacher's curriculum track in high school and their major. These results suggest that the teacher's understanding of, familiarity with, and certainty in wave physics concepts are more influenced by their learning experience than by their teaching experience. Therefore, we suggest additional learning opportunities for teachers (such as teacher training programs) in order to improve teacher knowledge and correct teacher misconceptions in wave physics.

• Atmosphere
• /
• v.27 no.2
• /
• pp.199-211
• /
• 2017

The cold surges over East Asia can be grouped to two types of the wave-train and the blocking. Recently, the observational study proposed new dynamical index to objectively identify cold surge types. In this study, the dynamical index is applied to the simulations of 10 climate models, which participate in the Coupled Model Intercomparison Project Phase 5 (CMIP5). Focusing on assessment of cold surge simulation, we discuss characteristic of the wave-train and blocking cold surges in the climate models. The wave-train index (WI) and the blocking index (BI) based on potential temperature anomalies at dynamical tropopause over the subarctic region, the northeast China, and the western North Pacific enable us to classify cold surges in the climate models into two types. The climate models well simulate the occurrence mechanism of the wave-train cold surges with vertical structure related to growing baroclinic wave. However, while the wave-train in the observation propagates in west-east direction across the Eurasia Continent, most of the models simulate the southeastward propagation of the wave-train originated from the Kara Sea. For the blocking cold surges, the general features in the climate models well follow those in the observation to show the dipole pattern of a barotropic high-latitude blocking and a baroclinic coastal trough, leading to the Arctic cold surges with the strong northerly wind originated from the Arctic Sea. In both of the observation and climate models, the blocking cold surges tend to be more intense and last longer compared to the wave-train type.

• Journal of the Korean association of regional geographers
• /
• v.2 no.2
• /
• pp.93-102
• /
• 1996

The Korean Peninsula is located on the east coast of monsoon Asia of the midlatitude, where the Pacific polar front moves. As a result variations of spatial and temporal distribution of precipitation occur. A great variation of precipitation during the summer months created frequent droughts and floods. The purpose of this study is to identify distributional characteristics and to analyze synopic characteristics of summer droughts in Korea. The research methods used are ; (1) to identify droughts based on the anomaly of monthly precipitation during summer of 1994. (2) to analyze correlations between drought and weather systems by using the calender of rain days. (3) to compare a synoptic mechanism of summer droughts with that of typical normal summer. The characteristics of summer droughts of 1994 may be summarized as follows ; 1) While most regions were affected by the droughts some regions displayed specific characteristics. The southern part of the Korean Peninsula was severely affected during the month of June. August droughts severely affected east part of the Sobek Mountains, thus showing that the droughts of June and August are highly localized. 2) In the pressure anomaly of surface field. the positive anomaly appears in June around Korean Peninsula, but in July when all parts of the South Korea were under severe droughts, the anomaly changes and becomes negative. 3) Extracyclones occurred less frequently in the summer of 1994. Those that did occur were located in areas far off the Korean Peninsula having little consequences on the drought patterns. 4) The trough of westerly wave at 500hPa height patterns in June is located far from the eastern sea of Korean Peninsula, but in July and August Korean Peninsula belongs to ridge of westerly wave. 5) In June the positive height anomaly at 500hPa surface appears zonally from Siberia to the western Parts of North Pacific Ocean, and in July and August, the strong positive anomaly appears around Korean Peninsula. As a result the zonal index of westerlies at during each month of summer in Korean sector has a large value, which in turn implies that drought will prevails when zonal flow is strong.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.19 no.6
• /
• pp.596-605
• /
• 2007

The behavior of a non-buoyant turbulent round jet discharging horizontally was investigated experimentally. The instantaneous velocity field of the jet was obtained using the particle image velocimetry (PIV) method and used to calculate the mean velocity field by phase-averaging. This study tested regular waves with a relatively small wave height for a wavy environmental flow. The centerline and cross-sectional velocity profiles were reported to demonstrate the effect of the waves on the jet diffusion in respect of wave height and wave phase. The wave phase effect was studied for three phases: zero-upcrossing point, zero-downcrossing point, trough. From the results, it is found that the centerline velocity decreases and width of the cross-sectional profile increases as the wave height increases. In addition, the self-similarity of the cross-sectional profile appears to break down although the width of each case along the axial distance does not vary significantly. The phase effect is found to be relatively small compared to the wave height effect.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.21 no.1
• /
• pp.30-38
• /
• 2009

In recent years, there's been strong demand for coastal structures that have a permeability that serves water affinity and disaster prevention from wave attack. The aim of this study is to examine the wave transformation, including wave run-up that propagates over the coastal structures with a steep slope. A numerical model based on the nonlinear shallow water equation, together with the unsteady nonlinear Darcy law for fluid motion in permeable underlayer and laboratory measurements was carried out in terms of the free surface elevations and fluid particle velocities for the cases of regular and irregular waves over 1:5 impermeable and permeable slopes. The numerical results were used to evaluate the application and limitations of the PBREAK numerical model. The numerical model could predict the cross-shore variation of the wave profile reasonably, but showed less accurate results in the breaking zone that the mass and momentum influx is exchanged the most. Except near the wave crest, the computed depth averaged velocities could represent the measured profile below the trough level fairly well.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.10 no.4
• /
• pp.204-210
• /
• 1998

This paper presents the development of the probability density function applicable for wave heights (peak-to-trough excursions) in finite water depth including shallow water depth. The probability distribution applicable to wave heights of a non-Gaussian random process is derived based on the concept of the maximum entropy method. When wave heights are limited by breaking wave heights (or water depth) and only first and second moments of wave heights are given, the probability density function developed is closed form and expressed in terms of wave parameters such as $H_m$(mean wave height), $H_{rms}$(root-mean-square wave height), $H_b$(breaking wave height). When higher than third moment of wave heights are given, it is necessary to solve the system of nonlinear integral equations numerically using Newton-Raphson method to obtain the parameters of probability density function which is maximizing the entropy function. The probability density function thusly derived agrees very well with the histogram of wave heights in finite water depth obtained during storm. The probability density function of wave heights developed using maximum entropy method appears to be useful in estimating extreme values and statistical properties of wave heights for the design of coastal structures.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.32 no.2
• /
• pp.106-121
• /
• 2020

In order to make harbor outskirt facilities robust using the reliability-based design, probabilistic models of wave heights at varying stage of shoaling process optimized for Korean sea waves are prerequisite. In this rationale, we numerically simulate the nonlinear shoaling process of random waves over the beach with a sandbar at its foreshore. In doing so, comprehensive numerical models made of spatially filtered Navier-Stokes Eq., LES [Large Eddy Simulation], dynamic Smagorinsky turbulence closure were used. Considering the characteristics of swells observed at the east coast of Korean Peninsula, random waves were simulated using JONSWAP wave spectrum of various peak enhancement coefficients and random phase method. The coefficients of probabilistic models proposed in this study are estimated from the results of frequency analysis of wave crests and its associated trough detected by Wave by Wave Analysis of the time series of numerically simulated free surface displacements based on the threshold crossing method. Numerical results show that Modified Glukhovskiy wave height distribution, the most referred probabilistic models at finite water depth in the literature, over-predicts the occurring probability of relatively large and small wave heights, and under predicts the occurrence rate of waves of moderate heights. On the other hand, probabilistic models developed in this study show vary encouraging agreements. In addition, the discrepancy of the Modified Glukhovskiy distribution from the measured one are most visible over the surf zone, and as a result, the Modified Glukhovskiy distribution should be applied with caution for the reliability-based design of harbor outskirt facilities deployed near the surf-zone.

• Journal of computational fluids engineering
• /
• v.20 no.4
• /
• pp.93-101
• /
• 2015

This paper provides numerical results of the simulation for the flow around the hull and the propeller of KCS model ship advancing in shallow water conditions. A finite volume method is used to solve the unsteady Reynolds averaged Navier-Stokes(RANS) equations, where the wave-making problem is solved by using a volume-of-fluid(VOF) method. The wave formed near the hull surface in shallow water conditions shows a deep trough dominant pattern that causes the loss of buoyancy followed by hull squat. The flow past the hull increases as the depth of water decreases. However, the axial flow velocity around the stern shows a reduction in magnitude by the effect of shallow water accompanied by the hull-propeller interaction. As a results, the thrust and torque coefficient increase about 8.3% and 6.2%, respectively for a depth of h/T=3.0 corresponding to a depth Froude number of $F_h=0.693$. The resistance coefficient increases about 11.6% at this Froude number condition.

• 한국해양학회지
• /
• v.14 no.2
• /
• pp.71-77
• /
• 1979

Tidal waves and the fluctuation of current are studied by use of observed data on tidal level, flow velocity and river discharge in the estuarine region of the Nakdong River. Observed data on the tidal level at five stations are used to obtain the fluctuation of amplitude and phase of tides, and the change of the wave speed versus distance from the river mouth. Comnining these tidal data with the vertical distribution of horizontal velocity data, some characteristics of the periodic tidal flow are deduced: (1)Diminishing rates of the tidal amplitude ratio η / η$\_$0/ at high tide were 0.058η$\_$0H/ /Km at neap tides. The constant of phase change, K, was 0.035rad/km. (2)While proceeding landward, the shape of the tidal wave changes from symmetrical to asymmetrical. The traveling speed of the tidal wave crest was estimated to be 3.6∼5.2m/sec, while that of the tidal wave trough was 2.4∼ 3.5m/sec. (3)The flowing speed of the water varies periodically in accordance with the tidal period. The maximum speed of landward flow appeared approximately at two hours before the high tide, while that of seaward flow at two hours before the low tide. (4)The upstream boundary is deduced approximately to be 50km at spring tide and 44km at neap tide from the tidal velocity decreasing. the tidal influence area is estimated approximately to be 65km from the tidal amplitude damping.