• Proceedings of the KSME Conference
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• 2002.08a
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• pp.377-380
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• 2002

This paper presents the results of a study investigating methods of interpretation of wave directionality based on wavelet transforms. Two-dimensional discrete wavelet was used for the analysis. The proposed scheme utilizes a single frame of ocean waves to detect their directionality. This fact is striking considering the fact that traditional methods require long time histories of ocean wave elevation measured at various locations. The developed schemes were applied to the data generated from numerical simulations and video images to test the efficiency of the proposed scheme in detecting the directionality of ocean waves.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.139-148
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• 2001

Phenomena induced by waves, such as overtopping, sediment transport, vibration/fluctuation and destruction of structures are highly influenced by the directionality of wave propagation. These phenomena are often dominated by non-linearity, and so hydraulic model experiments are widely adopted for stability analysis rather than numerical modeling, Thus, stability ofrubblc mound breakwaters(RMB) due to wavc directionality was experimentally investigated in this study. The incident wave angle $30^{\circ}$ was found more risky on the damage rate of RMB under directional regular waves, and the incident wave angle $40^{\circ}$ was found relatively risky under directional irregular waves. These results clarified the wave directionality effect on the stability ofRMB, These facts were found correspondent to the occurrence of the peak between $20^{\circ}$-$40^{\circ}$ with the directional frequency distribution of lIlO maximum water particle velocity.

• Ocean and Polar Research
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.437-446
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• 2003

Field measurements of directional waves were carried out during the summer of 2002 at two coastal sites in water of finite depth. A couple of general purpose instruments were used employing acoustic Doppler technology. The aim of the study was to investigate the spatial behavior of the directional movement of waves as they come ashore. In total,74 tests were carried out during which sea states of low to moderate intensity were recorded. A great number of these runs displayed bimodal characteristics of the spreading function at high frequencies. It was found that in general, the frequency-integrated directional width tends to broaden as the water shoals and when refraction effects are negligible. This is attributed to wave-wave interactions that become pronounced in shallow water. The same directional width showed, also, a tendency to increase with increasing peak frequency of the sea state spectrum. The behavior of the kurtosis of the spreading function was also examined. It was found that for higher frequencies this index tends to increase in wave spectra above a certain sea severity threshold.

• Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.1-7
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• 2004

GUI program for analyzing directional spectrum waves is introduced in this paper Basically, MLM (Maximum Likelihood Method) was used for this program which was additionally consisted of performing spectral and time domain analysis for two dimensional irregular waves. Moreover, the directionality of directional spectrum waves generated by single summation and double summation method was investigated based on MLM. The directionality from each summation method has good agreement compared with that of target wave spreading function in the case of single wide directional spectrum waves. In addition to this, the resolution of directionality in double summation method was investigated as introducing coherence function between each wave component

• International Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology Speciallssue:Selected Papers
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.1-6
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• 2003

This study presents the results of series of studies, which are mainly devoted to the application of wavelet transforms to various problems in ocean engineering. Both continuous and discrete wavelet transforms were used. These studies attempted to solve detection of wave directionality, detection of wave profile, and decoupling of the rolling component from free roll decay tests. The results of these analysis, using wavelet transform, demonstrated that the wavelet transform can be a useful tool in analyzing many problems in the filed of ocean engineering.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.17 no.3 s.52
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• pp.1-6
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• 2003

This study presents the results of series of studies, which are mainly devoted to the application of wavelet transforms to various problems in ocean engineering. Both continuous and discrete wavelet transforms were used. These studies attempted to solve detection of wave directionality, detection of wave profile, and decoupling of the rolling component from free roll decay tests. The results of these analysis, using wavelet transform, demonstrated that the wavelet transform can be a useful tool in analyzing many problems in the filed of ocean engineering.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.28 no.5
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• pp.700-711
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• 2022

In this study, deepwater design waves were estimated for 16 wave directions and various return periods based on statistical analysis of extreme waves observed for more than 20 years at three stations (Chilbal-do, Geomun-do, Donghae). These values were compared with design waves estimated based on the omni-directional wave data. The Weibull distribution was used as the probability distribution function whose parameters were determined by the least square method. The Kolmogorov-Smirnov test was applied for the goodness of fit test. Notably, the directional design waves were smaller than the omni-directional design wave for every wave direction. The maximum 50-year wave heights for directional sectors were 7.46 m (NNE), 12.05 m (S), and 9,59 m (SSW) at Chilbal-do, Geomun-do and Donghae whereas those for uni-directional wave data were 7.91 m, 13.82 m and 10.38 m, respectively. This implied possible under-estimation of the deepwater design waves for 16 wave directions being currently used in the design of offshore and coastal structures.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.1-6
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• 2003

Wave energy dissipation and energy transfer between wave components, during the directional wave breakings, are investigated. Directional incipient and plunging breakers were generated by focusing the multi-frequency and multi-directional wave components at a designed location, based on a constant wave amplitude and a constant wave steepness frequency spectrum. The time series of surface wave elevation was measured at 9 different locations around the wave focusing point, using a wave gauge array. In order to examine the variation of the directional spreading function, the horizontal velocity of fluid motion was also measured. By comparing energy spectrums, before and after the breaking, the characteristics of energy dissipation and energy transfer, caused by wave breaking, are investigated. Their dependencies on directionality, as well as frequency, are analyzed. The breakings significantly dissipate wave energy, through energy transfer, in the upper region of the peak-frequency band, while enhancing wave energy in the low-frequency band.

• International Journal of Ocean System Engineering
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• v.2 no.4
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• pp.250-258
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• 2012

The distribution of wave heights is assumed to be a Rayleigh distribution, based on the assumption of a narrow band and Gaussian distribution of wave elevation. The present study was started with doubts about the narrow band assumption. We selected the wave spectra widely used to simulate irregular random waves. The wave spectra used in this study included the Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum, Bretschneider-Mitsuyasu spectrum, and JONSWAP spectrum. The directionality of the waves was considered. The cosine 2-l type directional spreading function and mixed form of the half-cosine 2-s type with Mitsuyasu type directional spreading are considered here to investigate the effects of a directional spreading function on random waves. The simulated wave height distribution is compared with a Rayleigh distribution.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.100-105
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• 2013

This paper presents a sea surface reconstruction method that uses measured radar images by applying filtering techniques and identifying wave characteristics of the surrounding the Ieodo ocean research station using WaveFinder (X-band wave measurement radar), which is installed in the station. In addition, the results obtained from real radar images are used to verify the reconstructed sea surface. WaveFinder is a marine system that was developed to measure wave information in real time. The WaveFinder installed in the station could acquire sequent images for the sea surface at constant time intervals to obtain real time information (Wave height, mean wave period, wave directionality, etc.) for the wave by getting a three-dimensional spectrum by applying an FFT algorithm to the acquired sequent images and wave dispersion relation. In particular, we found the wave height using the SNR (Signal to noise ratio) of the acquired images. The wave information measured by WaveFinder could be verified by comparing and analyzing the results measured using the wave measurement instrument (Sea level monitor) in the station. Additionally, the wave field around the station could be reconstructed through the three-dimensional spectrum and the inverse FFT filtering from the analyzed results for the measured radar images. We verified the applicability of the sea surface reconstruction method by comparing the measured and simulated sea surfaces.