• Journal of the Daesoon Academy of Sciences
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• v.36
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• pp.201-225
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• 2020

In the late Joseon Dynasty, ideas in folk religions were closely related to Daoist themes. There were, for instance, folk ideas centered on Prophecies of Jeong Gam (鄭鑑錄 jeonggamrok) that developed into 'raising island-armies (海島起兵說 hado gibyeongseol),' the future utopian movement known as the 'South Joseon Faith (南朝鮮信仰 namjoseon sinang),' and faith around 'Maitreya's Descensionist-Birth (彌勒下生 mireuk hasaeng).' People aimed to transform their country based on these ideas. Associated folklore tended to come from fengshui (風水) and books on prophecies and divination (圖讖 docham), and both of these drew heavily upon Daoist concepts. On the other hand, Daoist texts began being translated as national projects under King Cheoljong (哲宗), and many more were translated and published later under King Gojong (高宗). The nature of these Daoist texts mostly consisted of either morality books (善書 seonseo) or precious scrolls (寶卷 bogeon). The problem was that these ordinances and the Daoist texts of regents were among the main causes of civil war during the Qing Dynasty. In this regard, the translation of the Daoist texts conducted as a national project provided a theoretical basis for the people wishing to foment civil war or transformation. This raises the question of why King Gojong implemented a Daoist translation project in his nation. In an effort to answer this question, this article summarizes the popular ideas of the late Joseon Dynasty and explains how they were closely related to Daoism. In addition, this article summarizes the facts about how Daoism has emerged from a national crisis but developed a function of protecting the state (鎭護) in Korean history. Further described is the situation under which Daoism was summoned during the Japanese Invasion of Joseon (壬辰倭亂). Analysis is provided to show that King Gojong's intention was to translate Daoism due to Daoism's role in protecting the state. In addition, the relationship between current Daoist rites and customs in Korea and King Gojong's dissemination of Daoist oaths and vouchers is confirmed.

• 지역과문화
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.49-79
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• 2020

This study focuses on the analyzing historical and cultural resources formed during the Goryeo, Chosun, and Anti-Japanese Movement periods after the Silla period with the aim of finding ways to utilize its cultural contents. The viewpoint of analysis was made from the perspective of exchange, naturalization, and faith, and the following conclusions were obtained from the analysis. First of all, from the exchange perspective, the activities of Choi Chi-won, Seogyu, and Song Young-gu contributed to the formation of regional historical and cultural contents, such as leaving a lot of ruins or geographic stories in the area and a heritage of good human exchange. From the point of view of naturalization, Du Kyung-ryeong, Cheon Man-ri, and Jeong Yul-seong contributed to the history and culture of the story and the formation of heritage by doing such as contributing activities to the war, anti-Japanese movement for the nation, and the formation of the nation. The most representative from a religious point of view is the Guan Yu faith, which has become a faith believed by the authorities and civilian as a brave longevity and a symbol of the victory of war. The related symbols, paintings, etc. also are objects of worship and have become valuable local Chinese cultural resources as artistic values. Therefore, from a cultural point of view, there is a need to further develop and utilize these China-related historical and cultural resources as good cultural contents by elaborating their stories and local festivals, book culture branding, international music festivals, and exploring various cultures such as Chinese tour courses.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.21-27
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• 1998

According to the Samkuk Saki(History of Three Nations), An-ap pond was constructed in the 14th year of the reign of King Mun-$\mu$ But this period precedes the unification of Shilla(in the 16th year the reign of king Mun-mu) and Shilla was at war. Therefore I suppose the 16th year of the King's reign is just the time of the commencement of the construction of the pond. But the real construction had not been started before the 16th year of the King's reign, after the unification of the three nations into Shilla Dynasty. Another record of making a larger pond(the 19th year of the reign of king Kyung-duk) may signify the enlargement of the very pond that had been built the 16th year of King Mun-mu's reign. Korean traditional belief was the belief in the Dragon, the Mountain God, and the Heavenly God and these was deeply rooted in the Royal family and perhaps had influenced the building of An-ap pond. Namely it is explained that Em-hae Jun sympolizes the An-ap pond itself as the sea and the Dragon lived in the sea and also the mountain built in the East bank of An-ap pond is related to the Mountain God. And also Taoism's Sin Sun Sa-Sang(Paradise philosophy) had influenced the building of the three legendary immortal islands, called Yong Ju, Bang-Jang, Bong-Rae in the An-ap pond. It is supposed that the age of An-ap pond from the above mentioned facts and inferences and we can also understand the influence of the Royal family customs on the building of An-ap pond. The inscriptions on the vessels and architectural accessories suggest us the influence of the Royal family customs on the construction of An-ap pond.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.195-204
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• 2012

Since WWII and the Korean War, Korean modern fashion has been americanized by claiming, displacing with, and fusing with the traits of American fashion. The purpose of this study is to observe and analyze the traits of Americanization in Korean fashion, focusing on the designs of Nora Noh fashion from the 1950s to the 1980s. Nora Noh (1928- ), one of the first Korean fashion designers, who launched the first fashion show in 1956, introduced ready-made dresses to Korean fashion industry in 1963 for the first time, and later in the 1970s and the 1980s, exported Korean-made fashions to the U.S. market. For such purpose, this study first provides the theoretical backgrounds of Americanization in Korean fashion history and then conducts a case study by analyzing photographic materials. In case of Nora Noh fashion, the traits of Americanization can be defined as functionality, popularity, and hybrid. (1)Functionality in Americanized Korean fashion was expressed through simplicity, practicality, and usefulness. Noh's "homewear" style and exported silk dresses are the examples of the functionality. (2)Popularity was shown in kitsch images of materialistic and consumer culture. It was expressed in ready-made dresses and trendy styles of mini skrits and bell-bottom pants. (3)Hybrids of various multi-culture exist in American culture and fashion. In Noh's designs, traditional materials and the print patterns inspired from traditional motifs were used to add Korean nuances in Americanized fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50
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• pp.85-96
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• 2000

The study is aimed to analyse social and cultural background and to compare the changes of the cosmetic culture in Korea and the western countries accompanied by the developemnt os the cosmetic industry in the 20th century. The cosmetic culture of Korea has kept on changing adopting the new western style make up, These changes were very closely related with the current sociocultural environments and the developments of the cosmetic industry. The analysis and comparison of Korean cosmetic culture and that of Western countries can be summarized as following: Fistly the cosmetic culture of korea came out after Korean War through the improt of western movies. Secondly at the beginning of accommodation of the western concept of beauty the standards of beauty were confused with that of traditional make up. Thirdly in terms of the history of costumes in the western cosmetic culture the trend was feminine and curve lineal style in the 1910s straight and young style in the 1920s Young elegant curve lineal style and straight-line style replaced among themselves in every 10 years and the cycle became more rapid after the 1970s and there were diversity in the cosmetic culture affected by the postmodernism Fourthly the cosmetic culture of :total fashion" was taken into consideration. Fifthly the cosmetic culture of "total fashion" was taken into consideration. fifthly the make up of Korean and that of western countries are not only a way to express of aesthetic desire for beauty but sanitary management and it is a kind of an expansion of value for management for an inner self. Now is the time to refuse the attitude of accommodation of the western cosmetic culture without any consideration. We need to rediscover our traditional cosmetic culture and cultural distinctiveness and try to mix them with the western cosmetic culture in order to develop our own peculiar style which will be able to Korean design remain in the international stage and grow further.d grow further.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.107
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• pp.142-151
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• 2006

Bikini, a brief two-piece bathing suit revealing the wearer's navel, was first introduced in Paris, in 1946. However, it was not until the late 1950s that Americans were ready to adopt bikinis. Therefore, I focused on the following research questions to understand the popularization process of bikinis in the United States, from 1946 to the 1960s: 1. Why were Americans initially hesitant to adopt the bikini? 2. What were the factors that influenced the popularization of the bikini among Americans in the late 1950s? Primary sources including Bazaar. Madmoiselle, Vogue, The New York Times, and Life were reviewed. I referred to secondary sources on the history of fashion and American popular culture to interpret primary sources. According to the primary sources, Americans were hesitant to adopt the bikini, partly due to the excessive demand on the wearer's figure. However, the conservative social atmosphere during Cold War would not accept immorality and obscenity which would threaten America's future. Therefore, the campaigns against the sex industry, which developed prominently after WWII, predominated American society during the 1950s. Under this atmosphere, a small number of pictures and articles on bikinis appeared in the primary sources. Bikinis were only found in advertisements including sun lotions and hair removers. However, American society had to accept the change in sexual mores by the end of the 1930s. Body-revealing fashions including miniskirts, hot pants, and see-through material reflected the change in social convention. By the end of the 1950s, the number of pictures and articles on bikinis also began to increase in the primary sources. More Americans adopted bikinis with the increasing number of private pools and European trips. The vogue of sun-tanning and movies featuring bikinis further contributed to their popularity in the late 1930s and into the 1960s.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.111-121
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• 2004

The Mevelana sect is a spiritual Islamic group experiencing spiritual transaction with their god through a peculiar dancing as a form of religious ritual. The Mevelana, a sect of Islamic Sufism, has their head mosque in Konya in Turkey. Although Mevelana sect is regarded as heretic of Islam, it has exerted considerable influence on the Islamic religion through its peculiar religious worshiping form constituted in dancing and reciting poems. Nowadays, Turkey recognizes the Mevelana dancing as their precious cultural legacy of a long history, exerting public information efforts to give it for wider publicity of Turkey to the world. The Mevelana dress with ornament attired for the ritual dancing performance is regarded to symbolize a spiritual medium, which leads to conciliation with the eternity. The straight lines and curved line characteristic of the Mevelana dancer's trousers, skirt, jacket and such mirrors the image of the Orientals, which is in peculiar contrast with the white and gray colors of the dress with ornament. The impression of the spiritual Mevelana dressing in harmony with the dynamic dancing motion goes beyond mere a religious dressing. It is expressive of a graceful and sophisticated modern formative art, of which the mystic design gives an inspiration to the modern fashion. After Poiret, Islamic factors have emerged in the modern fashion. For instance, a hat with Arabic fashion lapel, a Fez hat of Turkish style, harem pants and such are still popular in the modern fashion. It seems probable that the Iraq War would far more activate the influence of Arabic culture to the modern fashion. By making an analysis on the religious background and formative characteristics of the Mevelana dressing, and by giving design examples on how the Mevelanan dressing has been applied to the modern fashion, this research suggests working out new designs by making a renewed application of their characteristics to the modern fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.2 s.101
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• pp.17-31
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• 2006

This study is tried to identify the changes in modern Hanbok for the past five decades through the literatures and actual materials such as the First Ladies' costume. In Hanbok fashion, there is a trend that influenced by politics, economy and culture just like in western fashion. After liberation from the Japanese colonialism, the most important factors in Hanbok fashion were economic factors caused by the development of textile industry and the dressing attitude of the First Ladies at that time. In 1950s, a modified Hanbok that is easy to wear was popular. It was partly because of the west oriented atmosphere after the Korean War and mainly due to the practical dressing attitude of First Lady, Francesca. In 1960s and 70s, former First Lady Yuk Young Soo who loved and had good taste for Hanbok led the fashion. At that time, high ranking female social leaders as well as general public usually wore Hanbok on formal occasions. Therefore, textile industry for Hanbok developed a lot and tailored shops that specialize Hanbok emerged. In 1980s, as the economy got better, Hanbok was upgraded and it became more luxurious. Traditional Hanbok was revived through a historical investigation. Additionally, the former First Lady Lee Soon Ja helped fostering a luxurious mood as she wore a Hanbok as a formal dress. After 1988 Olympic Games were successfully held, the importance of the traditional culture was emphasized in 1990s and Hanbok followed retro trend rigorously through the academic approaches including a dressing history. Hand painted and naturally dyed Hanboks were strong in this period. Former First Lady Kim Ok Sook's sophisticated Hanbok attire partially had effect on this mood. However, From the late 1990s Hanbok became less popular. It was partly because the former First Lady Son Myoung Sun and Lee Hee Ho preferred western style dresses and did not play a role as Hanbok fashion leaders.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.4
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• pp.35-46
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to closely examine the history of glasses and their cases used in the middle and late of Joseon Dynasty and identify inherent quality of our traditional glasses cases through color analyses of glasses cases' material and shape. While theoretical examination was conducted based on the literatures of glasses and their cases that firstly appeared in around Japanese Invasion (Imjin war) of Korea in 1592, practical analyses were demonstrated on photos of glasses cases used in the middle and late of Joseon Dynasty collected from both museum pieces and the internet which were grouped into wood, fabric, paper, sharkskin, hawksbill and cow's horn in accordance with their materials. 623 color samples were abstracted from collected 159 glasses cases and quantity analyses on each material were performed respectively. Abstracted representative colors based on the result of color analyses were classified into the main materials and accessories' color scheme. The result of this study are as follow: firstly, both Yellow and Yellow Red were mostly used in main materials. In Fabric case's colors were widely used in embroidery and in animal matter material cases such as sharkskin, hawksbill and cow's horn, which can be used as itself or dyed, Green Yellow shown in high frequency. Secondly, accessories were analyzed into similarity coloration with main materials. From this finding, it turns out that our traditional cases have characteristic of similarity coloration between main materials and accessories. Red Purple and Purple Blue in high frequency in accessories used as an accent color. Finally, based on the analysis of hue and tone, while the middle and low value colors shown in very high frequency, the high-chroma colors hardly shown.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.164-173
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• 2013

This study starts from the genealogical analysis of the urban public spaces through local history of Seoul which is significantly different from western countries. The analysis targets the discourse on the urban street, the basic unit of urban tissue and the settlement condition in urban life, which defines urban space-structure among the urban public spaces. And this research classifies and categorizes the value recognition and policy value occurred each period. Based on these, this research defines the progress levels of urban public design policy in Seoul as follows. Results Firstly, 1890's and 1900's was the period of development in commerce and industry, which caused congested and crowded streets. The open port policy allowed the experience of the foreign circumstance, and thus the identity of the urban streets and the value of symbolism come to realize among the society. During the Japanese colonization, urban streets put on modernized images through the urban remodeling out of the context according to the colonization policy. The brand-new values such as publicness and amenity are injected as well as modern regulations by system and authority. From Liberation to 1950's, it performed only street restoration as a repair from war with Japanese colonial system because of the political confusion and administrative vacuum. Finally, each period can be defined as follows. 1890's and 1900's can be defined as 'spontaneous finding the modernization' because urban street was intentionally transformed by the empire. Period of the Japanese colonization can be defined as 'the formation of modernized urban street concept and the compulsion of modernized regulation.' And period of from Liberation to 1950's, can be called as 'the absence of value recognition and maintenance of colonial system.' methodology.