• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.91-103
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• 2014

Shirts which have been a inner-wear in men's suit in the past, are being changed into an item that 20's men utilize to their individuality. Dress shirts have gotten out of its shape, becoming tight and slim with activity and fashion trend. In this study, two patterns of fitted dress shirts in a clothing construction text book were compared with the pattern of an apparel company with regard to the size tolerance and appearance silhouette; this comparison was performed through a fitting test and an appearance evaluation. According to the study, size tolerance of chest girth and waist girth were about 6~8cm and 10~18cm, respectively. Neck girth of the collar was tight in both the fitting test and appearance evaluation. Thus, the measurement value of the neck base girth had to be used for the collar pattern making. Moreover, approximately 35cm is a moderate size for the width on the upper arm in sleeve. Therefor the factors such as size tolerance of waist girth, height of sleeve cap, slim sleeve width and measurement value of neck base girth are being considered for the pattern making of fitted dress shirts.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.145-157
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• 1993

This study aimes to investigate the garment ease of pe-school children's clothing in accordance with arm movement. The experiment was done with 4 per-school children fro mage 3 to age 5, and 3 types of experimental clothes were made ; sleeveless, half sleeve, and long sleeve. The waist pattern and the sleeve pattern of each experimental clothes has no garment ease. And experimental clothes were examined to obtain the necessary ease of armcye line and waist lien by cross-cut method. The results of investigation can be summarized as follows ; 1. The resulting movement ranges of experimental clothes with no garment ease were 131.5°(sleeveless), 71.75°(half sleeve), and 62.25°(long sleeve). 2. The size order of cross-cut opening of waist lien movement were (side>front>back), and (half sleeve>long sleeve>sleeveless). 3. When the base point of measurement was set to armpit point by arm the latitudinal length of cross-cut opening of armcye line by arm movement was (anterior armpit part > posterior armpit part), and longitudinal length of cross-cut opening was (upper part>lower part).

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.74-87
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• 2017

The aim of this study was to analyze the features of bodice patterns modeled using a dress form that represents Korean female fashion models' body features. A controlled experiment was carried out using an existing dress form that has been frequently used in South Korea. The purpose of the study was to suggest notable findings derived from understanding the development of bodice patterns for Korean female fashion models. The comparison of features of bodice patterns from the developed and existing dress forms was carried out with consideration of the upper body features of the developed dress form, such as body angles and body cross-sectional shapes. The following results were derived from the investigations. (1) The angles of the upper and lower breast cups of the developed dress form differed to those of the existing dress form, showing a 5.0cm smaller front shoulder dart and a 3.5 larger ㎝ ㎝ front waist dart within the bodice patterns. (2) The body angle features of the developed dress form included a straighter neck and shoulder blade and more concave center back than the existing dress form, with a 2.0 reduced back neck height and a 4.8 larger back waist dart for ㎝ ㎝ the bodice back panel. The more realistic body angles of the developed dress form anticipate the improvement of garment pattern-making. (3) The altered shoulder angles resulted in an increased size of the back shoulder dart and a decreased size of the front shoulder height within the bodice patterns. (4) The increased rate of curvature of cross-sectional shapes on the bust and waist circumferences of the developed dress form resulted in an increase in the sizes of the front and back waist darts.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.221-231
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• 2012

To find the differences between the real somatotype and the ideal somatotype, WHR(Waist to Hip Ratio), WCR(Waist to Chest Ratio), and body cathexis were analysed by using ANOVA test, Duncan's multiple range test, and $x^2$ test. Fashion image sought by female collegians was surveyed, too. The results were as follows. WHRs in slim, usual, fat body type were 0.75, 0.76, and 0.83 and WCRs were 0.77, 0.81, 0.80. The respondents who considered themselves to be overweight recognized themselves to be fatter than their real weight. They were not satisfied with their bust girth in slim body type, thighs and calves in usual body type, and all parts except for foot length, hand length and arm length in fat body type. 60% of the thin people considered their body hourglass shape, 30.4% of regular people recognized their body triangle type, 43.8% of fat people thought their body was round form. They thought current ideal body size was bigger in height and bust girth and smaller in waist girth and hip girth, and weight than real body size. Also they responded ideal body shape was an hourglass type independent of somatotype. The pursuit of clothing image was that 45.5% of female collegians were fashionable and raffine and 10.4% of female collegians was elegant and graceful. Among the body area, body parts that may have an effect on body image were body length in 13.1% of the respondents, waist girth in 10.7% of the respondents, and hip girth in 10.0% of the respondents.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.80-88
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• 2006

This study attempted to undertake comparative analysis of woman's jacket pattern and details based on the Crinoline and Bustle style of the 19th century, comprehend the relation and differences between the two styles. And it also presented the resultant characteristics and attempted reproducing the original dress of the past for the development of modern woman's jacket design. Larger portion was occupied for the breast front width than the back width for both Crinoline and Bustle style, which indicated the remarkable difference between these styles and modern jackets in terms of pattern size. Circumferences also showed that both styles had larger size for the front region than for the back. Divided by two types of pattern shape. The Crinoline style has a waist line and flare. On the other hand, the Bustle style does not have a waist line and has pleats. These two styles shows distinct differences of patterns even if they seem similar. It was essential to undertake the designing of models by giving a consideration to the characteristics of patterns of the two styles. With respect to how to sketch the study models which will be applied for the reproduction to modern body sizes were as follows: the front bust circumference; B/4 +1+1 cm, the back bust circumference; B/4 +1-1 cm, front waist circumference; W/4 +1+1 cm, back waist circumference; W/4 +1-1 cm, the height of sleeve crown; AH/3, armhole line; B/4, the back width /2; 17.5 cm, the breast front width /2; 16.5cm. And for the rest parts, sizes reflecting the characteristics of the patterns of two styles have been applied.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.495-503
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• 2020

This study classified lower body shape according to thigh and waist shape to improve the fit of skinny blue jeans in adult women in their 20s. We analyzed the three-dimensional automatic measurement data, three-dimensional indirect measurement data, and index data using the three-dimensional female (20-29 years old) body scan data provided by Size Korea (6^th Korean Human Dimensional Survey Project). Factor analysis was performed to classify body type. We selected and analyzed 34 items related to thigh shape based on index items, angle items, and protrusion amount items from 99 items; consequently, seven factors were extracted and 82.39% of the total variance was explained. Cluster analysis according to factor analysis classified it into 4 types, and a post-test Duncan test was conducted to classify thigh features according to classified types. As a result, the characteristics of lower body shape according to the thigh types of women in their 20s are as follows. Lower Body Type 1 is shape with a more prominent belly and less prominent thighs. Lower Body Type 2 is a slender body figure with larger hips. Lower Body Type 3 has more prominent thighs compared to the waist and belly. Lower Body Type 4 has both a prominent belly and prominent thighs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.5
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• pp.827-839
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• 2009

Sizing system of Korean structural firefighting protective clothing that is national approved should be met for specification of structural firefighting protective clothing that is identified by Ministry of Public Administration and Security(MOPAS). However if you look over the specification of sizing system, the standard is based on only 'height' and the others are indicated as the size of completed product. KS K ISO 13688 and EN 340 which is met on ISO 13688 which indicates sizing system about protective clothing has the standards of height, chest and waist circumference. Also NFPA 1971 that has standards of sizing system is based on chest circumference, cervical to wrist length, waist circumference and inseam. That is different from Korean standards. Therefore, fire fighting protective clothing standards which is based on only height should be compensated and not be relied on foreign standards like ISO. It is indispensable for developing our own sizing system of structural fire fighting protective clothing. In this studying, Korean new sizing system of structural fire fighting protective clothing was developed for providing basic information of ergonomic structural fire fighting protective clothing. The analyzed target age was between 20 and 59 years old fire fighter who extinguish the fire. And it was analyzed by 3D measurement among data of the $5^{th}$ Size Korea. On conclusion, in case of structural fire fighting protective clothing coat, physical dimension was to be chest circumference, cervical to wrist length. Three dimensions as 5cm space of circumference and four dimensions as 2.5cm space of cervical to wrist length were derived, which means that totally 12 dimensions were defined. Dimension standards of pants was based on the analysis of waist circumference and crotch height. Six dimensions as 5cm space of waist circumference and three dimensions as 5cm space of crotch height were derived, which means that totally 14 dimensions were defined.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.7
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• pp.1008-1019
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to develop an appropriate jacket pattern for elderly women over sixty years old, providing a good fit and appearance. Results were as follows: The length of the jacket was made long enough to cover the area 22.0cm below the waistline. The waist back length was made 1.7cm longer than the actual size of the waist back length. The armhole length was made 0.5cm longer than B/4, enhacing the appearance and functionality while allowing freer movement of the arms. As for the front and back interscye breadths, the front interscye breadth was made 1.7cm larger than the actual size while the back interscye breadth was only 1.0cm larger, providing the front interscye breadth more space. The bust breadth was made 10.0cm larger than the bust circumference measure(B/4+2.5cm), the waist breadth was made 6.0cm larger than the waist circumference measure(W/4+1.5cm), The hip breadth was made 12.0cm larger than the him circumference measure(H/4+3.0cm). The sleeve length was made 3.0cm larger than the arm length measure, as the sleeve length of a jacket is usually long enough to cover the ulnar styloid. The sleeve width was made 5.0cm larger than the upper arm circumference measure, as the upper arm circumference measure of the model pattern was too large than necessary, worsening the overall appearance. The sleeve cap height was set at AH/4+4.7cm. The wrist circumference of 27.0cm was set, allowing 2/3 and 1/3 for the large sleeve and small sleeve respectively.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.44 no.6
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• pp.1070-1086
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• 2020

This study analyzed the size of women in their 60s, 70s and 80s in the 2014 Human Body Dimension Survey data among Size Korea's 7th Human Dimension Survey Data in 2015. This study examined the characteristics of changes in female body shape according to aging and the age range. The height item gradually decreased from the 60s and then rapidly decreased to the 80s. In the case of the circumference item, a sharp change occurred in the section from 69 to 70 years old. The reduction in hip height, waist height, and navel level waist height was not significant compared to the decrease in stature. Both width, thickness, and circumference gradually decreased with age. It can be seen that the back bends forward and the legs become thinner than the body due to the aging phenomenon with increasing age. Even for older women, the characteristics of aging differ in their 60s, 70s and 80s, so age segmentation of silver clothing should be considered.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.130-158
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• 1997

This study outputs calculation of regression of each items for production of torso basic pattern according to 6 body types as the result of another study and intends to present drawing method of torso model by short measure method modified and supplied and supplied by experiments of wearing clothing. SAS(Statistical Analysis System) is used for figures management and methods for analysis used are Frequency Analysis, Means Analysis, Regression Analysis, Correlation Analysis, etc. Results are as follows. 1. Correlation analysis is used to output the size necessary for torso prototype drawing by sort measure method and waist front length, back length, crotch length, shoulder point-cerricale-shoulder point, bust circumference, waist circumference, weight, etc, are set up as representative items calculation of regression of each type is suggested. 2. In the result of experiment of the first wearing clothing intended for 5 in each type and the whole 30, to develop torso prototype drawing method by short measure method, as we find some problems of the shape and propriety of neck root circumference line, the position of shoulder point, pulling or hold armpit parts, waist circumference line, the degree of dissatisfaction is high, so the second experiment of wearing clothing is propriety of each part is improved, all items except the length and quantity of shoulder dart, waist in back bodice, clearance quantity of hip circumference, and the place of shoulder line in side bodice. So, it was modifed and supplied and then the third torso prototyped drawing method by shout measure method was suggested. The third prototype drawing method was suggested, by modifying and supplying.