• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.80-88
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• 2006

This study attempted to undertake comparative analysis of woman's jacket pattern and details based on the Crinoline and Bustle style of the 19th century, comprehend the relation and differences between the two styles. And it also presented the resultant characteristics and attempted reproducing the original dress of the past for the development of modern woman's jacket design. Larger portion was occupied for the breast front width than the back width for both Crinoline and Bustle style, which indicated the remarkable difference between these styles and modern jackets in terms of pattern size. Circumferences also showed that both styles had larger size for the front region than for the back. Divided by two types of pattern shape. The Crinoline style has a waist line and flare. On the other hand, the Bustle style does not have a waist line and has pleats. These two styles shows distinct differences of patterns even if they seem similar. It was essential to undertake the designing of models by giving a consideration to the characteristics of patterns of the two styles. With respect to how to sketch the study models which will be applied for the reproduction to modern body sizes were as follows: the front bust circumference; B/4 +1+1 cm, the back bust circumference; B/4 +1-1 cm, front waist circumference; W/4 +1+1 cm, back waist circumference; W/4 +1-1 cm, the height of sleeve crown; AH/3, armhole line; B/4, the back width /2; 17.5 cm, the breast front width /2; 16.5cm. And for the rest parts, sizes reflecting the characteristics of the patterns of two styles have been applied.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.235-240
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• 2001

This paper was intended to grasp an effect of body shaping by wearing girdle using moire topography. In wearing test, four type girdle were used, panty type, long leg type, high waist type, long leg and high waist type. Subjects were ten female college student (18-24 years old), they were selected on the size of the hip girth, waist girth that are within 25~75% in percent on the National Anthropometric survey of Korea in 1997. Three-dimentional characteristic of body shaping was analyzed by the moire topograph. As a result, body shaping effect was confirmed by moire pattern and horizantal section map. In case of the comparison through the moire topography, all the subjects have an effect on body shaping in part of waist girth, abdomen, and hip. Especially backside silhouettes on hip all the ten female subjects showed hip-up effect. Long leg type girdle was smooth side line in the hip and thigh. Further study required for the effect of wearing the girdle on the body shapeability and comfort.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.153-167
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• 2015

This paper proposes knit slacks patterns by lower body shape of middle-aged women. In addition, this paper aims to propose a design method for a prototype of nice knit slacks using the properties of knitwear. To select basic woven slack patterns which would be used in designing prototype of knit slacks for middle-aged women, two industrial slack patterns and two educational slack patterns were collected, and lab coats were prefabricated using muslin. Then, a shape test was performed by an evaluation board which consisted of eight experts who majored in Clothing Construction. Using blended yarn (1/17's) with 64% wool, 23% rayon and 13% nylon, 12G knit slacks in plain stitch were made. In terms of waist circumference of knit slacks, the front and the back were set to W/4+1+2(D) and W/4-1+2(D), respectively, with 1cm of difference using waist circumference (Omphalion) to cover the abdominal circumference. To make the front-back width of the side line even, the front waist circumference was increased by 1cm. The ease of hip circumference was set to 4cm in total with H/4+1+0.8 in front and H/4+1-0.8 in the back (0.8cm in difference). Crotch length was set by adding 3cm (width of waist belt) after deducting crotch height from waist height (Omphalion). The center front angle was shifted by 1cm while the center back angle was shifted from the center front to the side line by 5cm.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.113-130
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• 2005

With a view to developing male dress forms for educational purposes, human body measurement was made for male adults in their twenties residing in Busan, Korea. Based on the results, the following conclusion was obtained: 1. Comparison d the measurement in Busan and the data of the 5th Korean physical dimensions(Size Korea) In the comparison of the Busan male adults in their 20s with national physical dimensions(Size Korea) by way of the Mollison relational deviation line, all the 28 items revealed differences less than 0.7. As the Busan sample reflects the body type d the average Korean men in their 20s, Busan's measurement results can be safely used as the data for dress form development. 2. Results of front body type classification According to the factor analysis, seven factors of the front body type were produced to explain 77.25%. The factors were shoulder angles, waist height, hip shapes, chest shapes, proportion of body(chest, waist, hip)width to shoulder width and so on. Cluster analysis brought about three somatotype groups. First, the body type with the least differences in hip-waist width, shoulder-waist with, and hip angles (24,23% in appearance) was named Type H. Second, the body type with the most chest-waist width and hip angles (38.66% in appearance) was called Type Sam X Third, the body type with the greatest shoulder-chest width, shoulder-hip width, and shoulder angles (37.11% in appearance) was termed Type Y.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.5
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• pp.37-50
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to present basic data that can express beautiful silhouette by studying visual effect that depend on waist position of basic pants and the change of round belt width and analyzing the study of visual effect of the pattern design as well as the effect of design component. The stimuli are 21 samples: 7 variations of the location of the waistline and 3 variations of the width of the belt. The data has been obtained from 35 fashion design majors. The data has analyzed by frequency, factor analysis, anova, scheffe's test and the MCA method. The visual effects by the location of waistline and the width of belt are composed of 3 factors : horizontal direction factor, vertical direction factor and flexuosity factor. In these factors, horizontal factor is estimated by most important factor. Visual effect is positive when belt width widens as the location of waist line goes down to position of low belt. And in case the location of waist line is in the position of natural waist belt and low rise belt, belt of 3.2cm width is effective visually. The interaction effects between the location of the waistline and the width of the belt have significant differences in all factors. Factor that appears in visual effect of basic pants can be evaluated differently according to pattern of pants and characteristic of body shape. So we may receive better visual assessment if we consider the location of waist belt and width of belt in side of visual effect and image, when we produce pants giving variety to crotch depth.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.3_4
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• pp.539-547
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• 2002

Heungdukwang's(興德王) costume ordinance(834A.D.) is a very important written historical record because it reveals Tongil Shilla's(統-新羅) costume. And among the clothing pieces that appeared in Heungdukwang's(興德王) costume ordinance, from Pyosang(表裳), Naesang(內裳), we know they wore one skirt over another. But skirts appearing in visual records are wort in waist line or breast line, and when they wore skirts in breast line, there were shoulder belts or not. Also among the clothing pieces that appeared in Heungdukwang'a (興德王) costume ordinance, Yo( ) and Ban( ) seems to be connected with skirt. but it is not clear. So this study focuses on the history of wearing skirt in breast line and one skirt over another, shoulder belts of skirt, and relation among yo( ), Ban( ) and skirt. The results are as follows. First, wearing skirt in breast line is already appeared in Ancient Shilla's(新羅) clay figure, and wearing one skirt over another is also appeared in Sunhung tomb's mural painting. so it is not completely under the influence of Tang(唐). Second, the shoulder belts of skirt is for convenience of action, But, at that time, there is no shoulder belts of skirt in Tang(唐). Third, between Yo( ) and Ban( ), If Yo( ) is connected with skirt, it is a shoulder belts of skirt or waist of skirt. And Ban( ) is a ire of skirt.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.89-100
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• 2001

The major purpose of this study is to show exact and convenient devices and minimize error in body measurement. This study was referred to 13 records and compared 6 items that the investigator's opinion has been differed about anthropometric point and line and suggested convenient and radical device, and measured by if need be. The 30 students from 20 to 25 ages were measured and data was analyzed by mean, std. deviation and paired t-test. The results are as follows. 1. Side neck point has been suggested many devices, but was suggested in this study to decide by M. trapezius, cervicale point and fossa jugularis point. 2. Shoulder point was suggested to decide by point of 1/2 armhole depth, upper arm depth and shoulder depth except acromion point. 3. Waist circumference line has been differed between horizontal line and natural line. The result of measurements was no significant difference between two methods and natural line was convenience. Waist circumference line must considered two methods together for garment construction and somato type. 4. The standard of hip circumference line has been differed between buttock point and trochanterion point. The result of measurements was significant difference between two methods, but two point must considered together because of body type. 5. Chest circumference line at scye has been differed between horizontal line and natural line. The result of measurements was significant difference between two methods and natural line was convenience. Chest circumference line at scye must studied to decide method the line for garment construction.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.203-214
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to classify the upper body of women into several kinds of somatotypes, using the method of Surgical Tape and making their shells. The subjects are 53 females 30 to 39 years-old. Fifty-three anthropometric data are measured per shell of bodysurface; six somatotype factors are obtained through principal component analysis and orthogonal rotation by the method of Varimax, Somatotype of women's upper body is achieved by cluster analysis, using the standardized factor score as an independent variable and the FASTCLUS of SAS by Kmeans. The results are as follows: 1. The number of the factors which explain the somatotype is six and those factors comprise 76.12 percent of total variance. Factor 1: related to the size of shape in the front of upper body Factor S: related to the size of shape in the back of upper body Factor 3: related to the type of the upper chest over the chest circumference line Factor 4: related to the length of·the upper body Factor 5: related to the part of the neck Factor 6: related to the type of the lower chest under the chest circumference line 2. Cluster analysis results in classification of upper body into five clusters. Cluster L: the length is the largest and the circumference is small. The part of waist is the largest and widest among surface areas. Cluster 2: Slender body line from chest to waist is characteristic. The length is longer. The part of upper and lower chest is larger among surface areas. Cluster S: the circumference is the smallest and armhole is small. The length and surface area are small. Cluster 4: the circumference and armhole is the largest. The length is the smallest. Cluster 5: the circumference is average and the length is a little long. The body line(silhouette) from chest to waist is curved slightly.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.7
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• pp.1173-1183
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• 1997

In order to flatter the figures of average middle aged women by determining harmonious proportions for their costume forms, this study evaluates effects of varying design details of jackets(coats) with blouses and slacks using a ranking test and paired comparisons test. The result from clothing design C-2 which has the best design effect were as follows; 1. In order to look taller, the jacket(coats) is divided vertical long line and it has the emphasis point close to the face. 2. In order to make shoulder width look wider, armhole seam line attached 1-2 cm from the shoulder point. 3. In order to make chest width look slimmer, division was made up of a tailored collar with a deep V-neckline. 4. In order to make waist circumference look slimmer, the jacket has more fitted waist line than loosed it and tailored collar with a deep V-neckline. 5. In the case of the division of upper and lower garments, when the division was closer to the golden section, i.e., when the jacket hemline is hipline and slacks length is the heel excluded length of shoe heels, the overall appearance was better. 6. The V-neckline looked better, when it was cut along a long acute angle to the waist line. Because of dividing along above factors 1-6 i.e., clothing design C-2 was overall harmonious. Appropriate division of costume forms made for an aesthetic composition, which flattered the body types of middle aged women and presented harmonious, beautiful costume design effects. It made the women look taller, slim and balanced, and highlighted middle aged women's sense of beauty.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.604-612
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• 2015

This study investigates preferred bicycle wear designs that can satisfy active senior consumers. A survey was conducted on 50-60's women who periodically rode bicycles. The results indicated a preference for slim designs and red colors. Jacket designs preferences were for a tight fit for size tolerance, stand collar style, and elastic band details for cuff styles. Pants design preferences were for a whole band waist belt type with a tight fit style such as leggings in pants silhouette, zipper details on the side line and ankle length. They also preferred styles with pads attached to underpants in the pad style and the part of the back waist in the pocket position. The survey showed four kinds of jacket design drawings on an ordinal scale rating. Results indicated a preference for set-in variation jackets with the red and gray color combination. Finally, we demonstrated bicycle wear design suggestions. The jacket applied different armhole line colors connected to the sleeve to make the waist slimmer; in addition, stretchable material helped improve armpit part functionality.