• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.55-59
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• 2001

These N-acyl amino acid surfactants is normally produced by reaction of acid anhydride with sodium ${\ell}-glutamate$ hydrolysates under Schotten-Baumann condition i.e., in alkaline aqueous medium. To avoid using fatty acid chlorides, acylations were also carried out with the fatty acids themselves or with their methyl esters, but unfortunately these methods cannot be used in practice, dodecenyl succinic anhydride, was to be studied for their suitability as acylating agents the production if acylated glutamine hydrolysates. The surface activities including surface tension forming power, forming stability and emulsifying power were measured. The experimental results revealed that the products have a good emulsifying power. Thus, there derivatives will be expected to be used an emulsifying agent for O/W type cosmetic emulsion.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.93-106
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• 2000

One phase liquid crystal formula was developed by using of nonionic surfactants, polyols, water and oils and its physical property was investigated. At the system oft to 1 ratio of POE octyldodecyl ether series, which have Y type (branch type) hydrophobic group, and POE glyceryl monostearate series, Y type hydrophilic group, it was examined that the formula at 7:3, 6:4, and 5:5 ratio of nonionic surfactant : polyols, shows L$\alpha$ , a pattern which is a typical characteristic of liquid crystal structure under the cross microscope polarized film. As results of L$\alpha$ phase diagram study, the formula which had high hydrophilic nonionic surfactant and the 7:3 ratio of nonionic surfactant : polyol appeared to increase the amount of oil containment and to be capable of the lamella formation. Besides it was examined that lamellar liquid crystal formula could contain about 25-40% water between lamella layers and it was transformed into w/o emulsion following as water content increased. When the lamella gel was applied into a human skin, it was investigated that it had effectiveness in increasing transepidermal water content of the skin.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.1-12
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• 2016

This study is to make the liquid crystalline structure using sucrose distearate (Sucro-DS) emulsifier to create the hydrophilic type oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion, the droplets of the emulsion having a structure of a multi-lamellar structure. We have studied the physicochemical properties of Sucro-DS using those techniques. And it has been studied in the emulsion performance. In order to form the liquid crystalline structure applying 3 wt% of Sucro-DS, 5 wt% of glycerin, 5 wt% of squalane, 5 wt% of capric/caprylic triglyceride, 3wt% of cetostearyl alcohol, 1wt% of glyceryl mono-stearate, 78 wt% of pure water in mixture having the lamellar structure of stable multi-layer system was found to formed. By applying them, they were described how to create an unstable active material encapsulated cream. Further, the moisturizing cream was studied using this technique. It reported the results to the skin improvement effect by the human clinical trials. The pH range to produce a stable liquid crystal phase using a Sucro-DS was maintained in 5.2~7.5. In order to increase the stability of the liquid crystal, it was when behenyl alcohol containing 3 wt%, the hardness at this time was 13 kg/mm,min. Viscosity of the same amount was 25,000mPas/min. After a test for the effects of the emulsions, the concentration of 6 wt% Sucro-DS is that was appropriate, the particle size of the liquid crystal was 4~6mm. It was observed through a microscope analysis, reliability of the liquid crystal changes for 3 months was found to get stable at each $4^{\circ}C$, $25^{\circ}C$ and $45^{\circ}C$. In clinical trial test, before applying a moisturizing effect it was $13.4{\pm}7%$. Moisturizing cream liquid crystal was not formed in $14.5{\pm}5%$. Therefore, applying than ever before could see the moisture about 8.2% was improved. On the other hand, it was the moisturizing effect of the liquid cream is $19.2{\pm}7%$. The results showed that 43.3% improvement than that previously used. Applications fields, Sucro-DS emulsifier used liquid cream, lotion, eye cream and a variety of formulations can be developed, as well as the cosmetics industry is expected to be wide fields in the application of the external preparation for skin emulsion technology in the pharmaceutical industry and pharmaceutical industry.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.159-165
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• 2004

This study described about method that forms liquid crystal gel (LCG) by main ingredient with hydrogenated lechin (HL) in O/W emulsion system. Result of stability test is as following with most suitable LCG's composition. Composition of LCG is as following, to form liquid crystal, an emulsifier used 4.0wt% of cetostearyl alcohol (CA) by 4.0wt% of HL as a booster. Moisturizers contained 2wt% of glycerin and 3.0wt% of 1,3-butylene glycol (1,3-BG). Suitable emollients used 3.0wt% of cyclomethicone, 3.0wt% of isononyl isononanoate (ININ), 3.0wt% of cerpric/carprylic triglycerides (CCTG), 3.0wt% of macademia nut oil (MNO) in liquid crystal gel formation. On optimum conditions of LCG formation, the pHs were formed all well under acidity or alkalinity conditions (pH=4.0-11.0). Considering safety of skin, pH was the most suitable 6.0${\pm}$1.0 ranges. The stable hardness of LCG formation appeared best in 32 dyne/$\textrm{cm}^2$. Particle of LCG is forming size of 1-20$\mu\textrm{m}$ range, and confirmed that the most excellent LCG is formed in 1-6$\mu\textrm{m}$ range. According to result that observe shape of LCG with optical or polarization microscope, LCG could was formed, and confirmed that is forming multi -layer lamellar type structure around the LCG. Moisturizing effect measured clinical test about 20 volunteers. As a result, moisturizing effect of LCG compares to placebo cream was increased 36.6%. This could predicted that polyol group is appeared the actual state because is adsorbed much to round liquid crystal droplets to multi-lamellar layer's hydrophilic group. It could predicted that polyol group is vast quantity present phase that appear mixed because is adsorbed to round liquid crystal to multi-lamellar layer's hydrophilic group. This LCG formation theory may contribute greatly in cosmetics and pharmacy industry development.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.47 no.1
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• pp.1-7
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• 2021

With increasing interest in the effectiveness and safety of sunscreen worldwide, research on the development of new inorganic sunscreen is also gaining momentum. In the present study, non-nano sized needle type zinc oxide, which can meet the regulation of nano-material as a recent problem, has been synthesized and surface-modified with cetyl alcohol to obtain needle type zinc oxide powder. Here, we also investigated their physical properties and evaluated their potential application as sunscreens. As a result of the experiment, the sunscreen with needle type zinc oxide powder, which was non-nano, showed similar UV-protection properties and transparency compare to that of 40nm size zinc oxide. It was further confirmed that the UV blocking effect was significantly increased when the needle type zinc oxide dispersion was applied to the sunscreen. Therefore, although the needle type zinc oxide is non-nano (200 nm) material, it has the potential to be applied to the product as an excellent transparency (improvement of whiteness), UV protection efficacy and smooth texture.