• 복식
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• 제47권
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• pp.5-18
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• 1999

This study focus on the history of Scottish kilt and the application of kilt designed by Vivienne Westwood 1993 F/W. Up to late the 16 Century saffron shirt was worn among Highland men and belted plaid become common dress after the 17 Century. The early the 18 Century belted plaid have developed as a kilt separated to a upper and a lower skirt style. However Government banned wearing tartan and kilt after Culloden battle (1745) as highland Dress(tartan, kilt, belted plaid etc) was the symbol of rebellion. This legislation by Hanoverian authority continued for 35 years. Although most of tartan was disappeared during those period it has become popular among European upper class after george IV's visiting Scotlan in 1822. Highland Dress become Scottish national dress after Industrial revolution. Currently Vivienne Westwood's 93 F/W using tartan and kilt and its accessaries those items were successfully transformed modern ladies dress.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.101-110
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• 2005

Vivienne Westwood could be placed in a unique position in the contemporary fashion design. She has never belonged in a core group of mainstream fashion designer but not been always in an outsider position. She got from mainstream fashion designer circles enormous appreciation, even established fashion industry was influenced by her fashion design. She began her fashion design with rebellious T-shirts like 'destroy' T-shirt, chicken-bone T-shirt, and nipple-zipper T-shirt, all of which revealed her disgust against establishment. All these T-shirts testify her total negation tendency in her youth. However, she did not continue to keep such a kind of total negation attitude against establishment In 1980s she changed her political attitude towards establishment, and this change also found a reflection in her fashion design. In her pirate-collection the dark image of her fashion in the 1970s changed into a totally different bright image with full of gold colour. Although this collection had radiated brightness, it contained still outsider character from mainstream fashion design. The following fashion design in 1980s and 1990s evolved further on the line of Pirate-collection, but they continued to contain certain outsider characteristics. Vivienne Westwood kept some kind of anti-establishment attitude, and this attitude more or little came to the surface of her design. She was always political and critical to the establishment. In 2005, in her 64, she designed a liberty T-shirt, which showed her political attitude and her engagement in social issues. Also it showed the change from the early total negation to the constructive critical affirmation. In this paper the relation between the fashion design of Vivienne Westwood and her political attitude and the influence of her political attitude to her fashion design is analyzed.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2005년도 정기총회 및 춘계학술대회
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• pp.114-114
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• 2005

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제4권
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• pp.131-144
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• 2004

“The ultimate aim of the anthropology of art ［fashion］ must be the dissolution of art ［fashion］.” Alfred Gell, Art and Agency (1998) This study aims to rethink fashion by examining issues that have emerged out of recent writings in the anthropology of art. Since their inaugural coinciding, sound discussions have emerged between the anthropology of art and the art world, addressing such subjects as： ‘artworks and artefacts’, ‘Western and non- Western discourse’, and ‘art and agency’ (Gell 1992； 1993； 1996； 1998). This study is comprised of a series of discussions, the subjects of which follow： the relationship between fashion and art； art and the anthropology of art； and in parallel with this, examining the possibility for an anthropology of fashion. This study employs a qualitative approach based on the discussion of relevant literatures dealing with fashion, art and art theory for its methodology, followed by a brief examination of a case of the Vivienne Westwood exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum in terms of an empirical account.

• 한국의상디자인학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국의상디자인학회 2004년도 한국의상디자인학회:학술대회논문집*Proceedings of the Korea Fashion
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• pp.13-20
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• 2004

This study aims to rethink fashion or, namely, the anthropology of fashion through examining issues generated by the relationship between art and the anthropology of art. Since their crossing paths, sound discussions have emerged between the anthropology of art and the art world, such as subjects about 'artworks and artefacts', 'Western and non-Western discourse' and 'art and agency'(Gell 1992; 1993; 1996; 1998).(omitted)

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.463-474
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• 2000

The purposes of this study is to investigate the characteristics of historicism in modern fashion and to introduce the appropriate approaching and application method of costume history. As one of the characteristic of Post modernism, historicism is an important theme in modern fashion. In this study, the background and the characteristic of Post modernism is considered and the historicism in the Post modern architecture and literature is studied. Next, through the artworks of Vivienne Westwood and Christian Lacroix who are excellent in the modernization of historical costume, the historicism in modern fashion is studied. The characteristic of historicism in Post modem architecture and literature comes from the nostalgia, aspiration for the past, and recurrence to the nature. It is not the revival of the past but the crossover of the past and the present. The characteristics of historicism in modern fashion are as follows. ·form; style, silhouette, and items that are shown in the historical costume come with the mixture of modem textile, new technique, and modem design. ·Materials and patterns; classical and romantic patterns, the artwork of the artist, and the fabric which is remake of remains are used. ·Technique; Tailoring techniques and the pattern making of the historical costume are used. ·Trimmings and etc.; Lots of handworks, trimmings and accessaries in that are inspired from the past are used. These elements are not come from a certain place and time but mixed surpassing places and times. With that, not only the form and the position of wearing but the meaning and purpose of wearing are changed.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제21권6호
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• pp.717-729
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• 2019

This study defines critical fashion designs and investigate its critical messages on fashion itself. The critical messages on fashion are categorized into two major issues of a fashion industry system and fashion consumer culture. This study contributes to the understanding of meaning and value for critical fashion messages that match critical art. As the research method, this study combines a literature review and case studies and the research scope focuses on cases that have appeared in fashion media since the 2000s when social critical messages in fashion began to emerge. The results of the study are as follows. Critical designers such as Viktor & Rolf, Elisa van Joolen, Issey Miyake, and Mary Ping have delivered messages challenging the nature of fashion industry system that criticize the cycle and limitation of a fashion system and pursues changes in perception of sustainability. The critical message on fashion consumer culture articulated by designers such as Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood, Hussein Chalayan, and Ricarda Bigolin & Nella Themelios insist on the formation of community while delivering a critical message on social, political, and cultural problems that raise the mechanism of social awareness through fashion design.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.1063-1071
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• 2006

Fetishism, which has been a taboo for a long time, is stimulating the modem people's emotions by being reborn as a fashion trend by a number of designers like Jean Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood and Claud Montana. Especially, Jean Paul Gaultier, called the bad boy of the fashion industry, is leading the Paris fashion world by expressing his unique fetish elements with his fantastic and uncommon ideas-males' wearing of skirts, wearing underwear like outer garments. Therefore, this study is aimed at investigating how his fetishism is shown in his works, understanding his fetish fashion world in the modem fashion and offering a new stepping-stone for fashion designers to actively participate in new fashion areas. Its results are as follows. First, it was found that the sensual designer Jean Paul Gaultier has been expressing his unique fetish elements in his collections like the following three styles of fetishism-fetishism by physical emphases, fetishism by items, fetishism by material. Second, the symbols of voluptuous beauty reflecting his own fetishism could be found in his movie costumes, license areas and given plots. Third, the work describing Jean Paul Gaultier's fetishism as a fetish image with the concept of Fantasy of Missing was evaluated as a successful work to express an internal sexual desire.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.1-12
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• 2009

As foundation wear, underwear is the starting point where a woman shapes her figure and constructs a female identity. In the late twentieth century, the use of underwear as outerwear was extensively adapted, so underwear as outerwear is the latest thing today. Based on literature review, this study aimed to examine how underwear was adopted for use as outerwear extensively in the late twentieth century. The result of this study can be summarized as follows. First, originally there was no border between underwear and outerwear at the start. With the change of female social and political status, the function of underwear and its design has been changed diversely. Also, its revealing and decoration has been linked with female sexual attraction. Second, by some precursor fashion designers such as Vivienne Westwood and Jean Paul Gaultier, underwear was redefined as outerwear with erotic but powerful meaning in the Twentieth century. Their idea had an enormous influence on contemporary fashion culture, and consequently has become popularized like lingerie look today. Third, the change of female social status led a big change in view on the female sexuality and the ideas of femininity in fashion culture in the Twentieth century. Dressed by Gaultier, Madonna's performance wearing corset costume played a role in redefining contemporary femininity in relation to sexuality and power, even though it is still under the controversy.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제44권1호
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• pp.25-35
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• 2006

This study investigated the scheme for correctly making Korean fashion design known to the world. It attempted to increase the influence of the Eighteenth Century Costume in contemporary fashion. During the 18th century, France had an almost complete monopoly of fashion. Growing out the fairyland atmosphere of the French Court and often conceived of as ennui by personal vanity, this fashion was a product of an age which sought at any price to live life with supreme grace. Most of the special costume exhibitions in the Metropolitan Museum of Art are planned and directed by Polaire Weissman, Diana Vreeland, Richard Martin, Harold Koda. The Costume Institute has held exhibitions of the Eighteenth Century Costume several times such as "Museum Period Rooms Re-Occupied in Style," "the Eighteenth Century Women," "the Ceaseless Century," "Dangerous Liaisons," etc. Especially, the exhibition of "Dangerous Liaisons" is organized in ten parts such as the Portrait, the Levee, the Music Lesson, the Withdrawing Room, the Broken Vase, the Favorite, the Masked Beauty, the Card Game, the Late Supper, and the Shop. Using the eighteenth century as its touchstone, The Ceaseless Century proceeds differently, not seeking the short distance between a discrete present and the multiple past but rather showing the complicated navigation that comes of revivalism swing to and fro on the timeline of history and sensibility. The designers featured include Karl Lagerfeld, Gianni Versace, Vivienne Westwood, Jean Paul Gaultier, Christian Dior, Cristobal Balencicga, Christian Lacroix, Stella McCartney forChloe, Olivier Theyskens, Alexander McQueen, etc. Therefore, Korean designers should refrain from (Ed-confirm) the foreign collection without a clear purpose and should devote their effort to create with an active attitude.