• 복식
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• 제57권6호
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• pp.46-61
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• 2007

The analysis of exotic style in domestic fashion brand items aims to offer the ideas necessary for the style and item developments and to analyze exotic images and styles accepted in domestic fashion market. Therefore this study analyzed the domestic fashion brand items and categorized the main exotic factors and styles so that would catch on to its characters and appearance frequency. As for the research method of this study, the frequency and content multi-dimensional analysis were used in the investigation of the exotic images appearing in the domestic fashion brands. The styles of exotic image in domestic fashion brand items are 'natural' style, 'primitive' style, 'ethnic' style, and 'maximalism' style. Also, the main exotic factors in each exotic style were composed of a few exotic images such as 'natural', 'primitive', 'ethnic', 'romantic', 'elegance', 'splendid', 'seductive', 'retro', 'traditional', 'classical', 'bohemian', 'vintage', 'kidult', 'artistic', 'extreme compromise', and 'modern'.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제4권2호
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• pp.1-17
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• 2000

Kitsch is one of the various mass-cultural phnomena in the late 20th century, with it's own new aesthetic value, 'self-expression' through 'destruction', denying the existing established way of thinking and escaping from the stereotypes or fixed ideas. This is called 'aesthetic inadequacy'. The purposes of this study are to examine the different preferences between the western and the domestic Kitsch Fashions to investigate the formative and aesthetic characteristics of domestic Kitsch Fashion based on substantial data, and to propose the creative Kitsch design. The results of this study are as follows; 1. The formative characteristics of domestic Kitsch Fashion are marked by amusement, disharmony, epicureanism, satire, and use of imitation. 2. Then, based on theoretic research, this study applies aesthetic characteristics of Kitsch to the creative design. According to the formative characteristics for Kitsch Fashion, the Design Concepts are developed in order of Optimism, Multi Form, Decadence Chic, Neo-Naturalism, and Poor Vintage. And the Fabric direction is given in Design Story with sub theme such as Cheerful, Game, Decadence, Environment, and Grunge.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.35-48
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• 1998

The purpose of this paper is to examine the street fashion, which is influenced by the youth culture in 1960s. Youth culture is the youth subculture which appeared multiform in the 1960s. It tried to create a new culture by subverting the ruling class culture with their combative life style and peculiar appearance which are distinguished from mother culture. Youth cultures as youth subculture are symbolically expressed in their style which had strong characteristics of sub-fashion and anti-fashion, and which are different from mother fashion in shape. Therefore youth subculture fashion had an effect on street fashion in the 60s. The influence that the youth culture fashion had had on the street fashion is summarized as follows: Beats fashion was intelligency look on black dress, black polo-neck shirts, black trousers, black glasses and heavy black eyeliner. Mods fashion was neat style on Edwardian suit with narrow trousers, pointer-toeshoes and smooth croped hair. Folkis fashion was ethnic look, middle east asian look, peasant look, Indian style, south america look, gypsy style, natural materials, natural dying, tie-dye, beads and hand made ornaments. Rockers fashion was violence appearance categorized 'blue collar' on black leather jacket decorated with metal studs and hand-painted insignia, blue jeans and boots for motor bike. Swinging London & the Psychedelics fashion was blend mods look with pschedelic color and motive pattern. Hippie fashion was intermix pschedelic and natural or ethnic style. It was appear to be a meaningless, unpredictable assortment of diverse items and style. Faded and tattered jeans, army jackets, vintage hat, beads, embroidered headband, white sheets, diverse theatrical costumes, sandals or bare feet, granny dress, peasant blouse, blanket cape, tie-dye T-shirts and long hair. Greasers fashion was adorned black leather jacket with chains, fringing, badges, insignia and sleeves had been crudely ripped off. They came to be known wore jeans so soaked with oil. Skinheads fashion was aggressive working class identity with donkey jacket, jeans rolled up, collarless union shirts, heavy boots, braces and hair cropped short.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.83-101
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to observe the elements of Japanese popular culture portrayed in Korean new generation fashion at the current point of time, when Japanese popular culture is first being opened to Korea. And the another purpose is to look into the fashion consciousness of them, which is made up of these aspects. The new generation plays the leading role in further excelling the culture of our society. They are the generation of sense and sensibility, the generation of "me", the generation of information, and the generation of individuality. Even before Japanese popular culture was officially opened, the new generation was already accepting fashion, comics and animation, video games, music, broadcasting, food, etc. The Japanese cultural elements that show most in Korean fashion are street fashion and the fashion of celebrities. These are mostly brought in by fashion magazines, the internet, satellite TV, the new media of cable TV, and street shops. The aspects of Japanese popular culture in Korean new generation fashion are many and varied. Such examples in fashion are : vintage style, school-girl style, sexy causal style, black coordination, soft avant-garde style. It can be said that the fashion consciousness of Korean new generation could be placed in the following order. First, the variety of fashion. Next, the internationalism of fashion. Third, the information of fashion, and last, the play value of fashion. Interest has peaked in Japanese culture after the official opening, and this study has explored the very same aspects which can be seen in Korean new generation fashion. This study was meant to help make a responsible and sturdy new generation fashion culture which can help face the new millennium.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권1호
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• pp.22-32
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to suggest the appropriate marketing strategies for Korean fashion companies wishing to enter the US market. In-depth-interview with documentary research were performed to investigate the seven Korean fashion companies launching in the US market as wholesalers or retailers. The interviews were executed from May to July 2007. The results of the study were summarized in accordance with Marketing Mix(4P's). In most cases, the brand targets are female customers of 20's to early 30's. The products carried by the companies are trendy with a tint of vintage and oriental feelings. The price ranges from middle to high level. Most brands are engaged in wholesaling through trade shows to sell the merchandise for department stores or specialty stores, but recently are trying to convert to retailing. Trade shows and show rooms are used as one of the promotion tools, but celebrity marketing has also been active for the promotions. Most companies suggested their superior qualities of the products as their strength, and the lack of experience and information as their weakness. Most companies forecast that the influence of FTA between Korea and the US may be limited because of Korea companies' overseas outsourcing system.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.219-238
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• 2014

This study attempted to investigate present condition and product planning of global eco-fashion brands that harmonize fashion and sustainability. As research subjects, this study selected 97 oversea fashion brands mentioned in books related to eco-fashion, Black(2011), Brown(2010), Fuad-luke(2009). As for research methods, materials and ethical practices of these selected 97 brands through literature data and their internet site homepages. This study analyzed oversea eco-brands collected 26 British brands, 22 American brands, 36 European brands such as Germany, France, Italy, Sweden, Spain, Finland and so on, except Britain and 13 other regions including Japan, India, Canada, Mexico, and New zealand. In conclusion, the product planning characteristics of these oversea eco-fashion brands can be summarized as follows; community and fair trade, ecological and slow design, recycle, reuse, redesign, and new eco-models. Firstly, brands of 'community and fair trade' manufactured products through fair trade and local community's artisan by ethical practices with organic fabrics. Secondly, brands of 'ecological and slow design' pursued timeless design and multi-functional design as luxury eco-fashion styles. They used organic textiles, hemp, bamboo, soya, tencell, sea cell, and self-sustaining plants. Thirdly, brands of 'recycle, reuse, redesign' aimed for upcycling high-end fashion and used vintage clothes, textile scraps, PET, parachutes, tires, safety belts, advertising banner and so on. In addition, brands of 'new models as eco-fashion' suggested zero-waste cutting, recycling over-printing technology, new sustainable business model, and ethical practices in the supply chain of the fashion industry.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.27-39
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to investigate the formative characteristics and the aesthetic values of denim dresses from the 19th century until the $20^{th}$ century and analyze those changes shown in Paris Milan London New York collections from 2001 S/S to 2013/14 F/W. The results of this study are as follows; 1) In the mid-$19^{th}$ century, the denim pants were working suits. In the 1920's, they started to be recognized as ordinary clothing and they were supplied to women in World War II. In the 1950's, denim pants stood for youth and resistance, and they became popular among teenagers. In the 1960's, hippies who protested against the Vietnamese War would wear worn-out denim pants symbolizing peace and freedom. As they became more common in the 1970's, people all around the world wore the clothes. In the 1980's~90's, the waves of high class brand fashions brought in sensualism, extravagance, reactionary tendency, and so forth. Consequently, the aesthetic values of denim dresses have connotations of practicality, resistibility, ornamentation and femininity. 2) Practicality in recent collections is represented in classic fashion which features typical details and raw denim and modern fashion which is made with glossy denim and minimized details. Resistibility is represented in avant-garde fashion which features deformed or over-layered jackets and pants with damaged denim and vintage fashion which is made with wash-out and wild stone denim. Ornamentation is represented in ethnic fashion which is made with wash-out denim and ethnic prints and romantic fashion which features details such as ruffle, frill and shirring as well as lace and flowery decorations. Femininity is represented in sexy fashion which designs to expose or to focus in women's body and elegant fashion which is made with soft and glossy denim and hourglass silhouette.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제25권3호
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• pp.81-95
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to analyze the newtro fashion style and extract key descriptive terms for visual image evaluation based on the style. To achieve this, a literature review, case study, and survey were conducted. The results are as follows: 1) Newtro fashion exhibited a variety of styles depending on the items being considered. In particular, the windbreaker style is composed of windbreakers, sweatshirts, and training pants, the blazer style consists of blazers, sweatshirts, and denim pants, and the padding style is characterized by short padding, sweatshirts, and jogger pants. 2) A total of 28 terms were identified as vocabulary to represent the visual images of newtro fashion. Among these, 17 terms appeared with a frequency of 30 or more times across the three styles. Commonly used terms included 'emotional', 'desirable', 'empathetic', 'unique', 'moody', 'retro', 'sophisticated', 'stylish', 'vintage', 'confident', 'youthful', 'trendy', and 'modern'. 3) By examining terms with a frequency of 50 times or more, the visual images associated with each style were compared. For the windbreaker style, the newtro fashion image was predominantly described as 'desirable', 'youthful', 'modern', 'stylish', and 'emotional'. The blazer style was associated with 'retro', 'unconventional', 'stylish', 'trendy', 'empathetic', 'modern', 'intricate', and 'unique'. In the padding style, the newtro fashion image was characterized as 'youthful', 'intricate', 'cute', 'stylish', 'modern', 'unique', and 'confident'.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.191-206
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• 2016

A designer representing an avant guard fashion, Martin Margiela introduces experimental collections that seek ideational and ideal values, breaking away from limits of popular universality or usefulness of fashion. This study seeks to interpret Martin Margiela's design characteristics from the perspective of ambiguity, and thereby examine theoretical basis of meaning interpretation of his ambiguous and innovative design. In poetic meaning ambiguity is verbal nuance which gives room for alternative reaction the same piece of language. By way of study methods, concepts and characteristics of ambiguity were examined based on William Empson's seven types of ambiguity, and characteristics of Martin Margiela's fashion design were analyzed from the perspective of ambiguity. In the study, expression of ambiguity in Martin Margiela's fashion design was categorized into ambiguity of forms, that of meanings, and that of existence. Ambiguity of forms could be found indeterminate form of clothes and flat clothes. Ambiguity of meaning refers to ambiguity arising from the possibility of the meaning that fashion design is going to convey diverse interpretation. Ambiguity of meaning could be found up-cycling vintage clothes, semi-couture, signs of time, unfitting size, and symbolic letter. Ambiguity of existence could be found inanimate dummy, face shrouded with a veil and expression of multiple identity. In Martin Margiela's fashion design ambiguity gives rise to joy of something fresh, amusement felt about what deviates from normality and the possibility of fashion design's endless creations.

• 복식
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• 제64권7호
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• pp.128-142
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• 2014

In the new media age, the importance of personal style is highlighted, as the fashion recipients independently create their own images by transforming and recombining the fashion information gathered from the fashion blogs - the most representative form of social networks. The study aims to identify the types and styles of imaginary ego-images represented on the personal fashion blogs as a new space of self-expression, based on Lacan's gaze; the imaginary of the unconscious world and the ego-concept. According to literature search, the imaginary ego-image is classified as narcissism, regression, identification, and virtuality. In the case study, Narcissism is represented mostly as bloggers' satisfaction and beliefs about their fashion styles. The degeneration represents childhood images including a mother, as well as retro and vintage images that recreate the fashions of bygone eras - such as medieval, $19^{th}$ or 20th century fashion. Identification is the connection with the various areas of culture and art, especially movies and music. Virtuality represents hypothetical situations of mythical, fairy tale-like, surreal, or dreamlike atmospheres and hypothetical bodies that appear removed, disassembled, or crooked. The imaginary ego-images emerged on the personal fashion blogs are also classified into specific style depending on the attributes of the ego images-such as kidult style, retro style, ethnic style, and surreal style.