• Journal of English Language & Literature
• /
• v.56 no.3
• /
• pp.501-517
• /
• 2010

This paper examines the British imperialism found in Edith Nesbit's fantasy stories by looking at the function of magic and of the hierarchical relationships seen in the books. Although Edith Nesbit is relatively unknown in Korea, she is widely recognized as having had a great influence on the 20th century British literary world, and is also well-known for her political position as a socialist. Nesbit's fantasy books are commonly differentiated from other Victorian children's books written before her in that she created realistic and liberal children characters and rejected the adult didactic tone. While Nesbit's books have been recognized as revolutionary and being distinguished from other Victorian children's books, I suggest that the ideas found in her fantasy novels largely include the dominant Victorian message of British imperialism. This imperial ideology is delivered by the logic of magic and the multilateral hierarchies. The two magic creatures (The Psammead and the Phoenix) and the two magic items from an Oriental background (the Carpet and the Amulet) all have a magic power to grant people's wishes, wholeheartedly exercising their power and knowledge for the sake of the British characters. While the magic agents serve to fulfill the children's wishes, the children aim to please their parents and to benefit their family, showing layered hierarchies among the characters. Also, there is a hierarchical distinction between the magic items and the magic creatures in that the magic items have no voice to express themselves but only serve and obey the British children. The foreign characters that the children encounter in their adventures also cooperate with the British characters to help them to fulfill their goals. In short, magic frees the children from the adult-centered world but ultimately their free adventures serve their parents and other adults, and represent the ideals and hierarchical concepts of British imperialism. Thus, Nesbit's position as a modern writer seems to be ambiguous, switching between modern characterization and style, and the old Victorian imperial messages that also exist in her fantasy novels.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.17 no.2
• /
• pp.1-16
• /
• 2013

Subcultural style is the center of subcultural identity and the clothes and adornments are the most visible symbol of membership. The Goth subculture has associated tastes in music, aesthetics, and fashion. The style symbolized the strong subjective subcultural identity held by most Goths and acted as the practical basis to demonstrate their commitment to the subculture. This study investigates the aesthetic and the style of Goth subculture in its heyday of 1980s which has continued to affect mainstream fashion and culture since its birth. In order to inquire the concept of subculture and its style, this study executes literature survey as well as investigates the images of street style magazines to analyze the visual elements. The stylistic and the aesthetic characteristics of Goth subcultural style analyzed in this study are grouped into four categories as follows: first, Victoriana, which embodies the fear of death and the nostalgia for the past using Victorian morning dresses and corsets, second, vampirism, in that some Goths who are fascinated by vampires are costumed in vampire figures to advocate diabolism and decadence, third, sexual ambiguity of male Goths which emphasizes feminine appearance in the pursuit of androgyny, and fourth, sexual fetish of female Goths which represents aggressive eroticism utilizing fetish paraphernalia.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.60 no.10
• /
• pp.118-132
• /
• 2010

The purpose of the research is to develop a systematic model to interpret makeup signs through a case analysis of makeup shown in Alexander McQueen's ready-to-wear collections from 2001 to 2010 and to prove an importance of makeup as a communication medium to deliver social and cultural values. This research employed Panofsky's Iconology theory to analyze data. This theory consists of three steps to interpret the meaning of a work: (1) pre-iconographical description, (2) iconographical analysis, and (3) iconological interpretation. Alexander McQueen's makeup was analyzed with the three steps in order. As a result of the pre-iconographical description step, makeup styles (icons) in his collections are identified which are Egyptian style, Gothic style, Androgynous style, Victorian style, Fantasia style, and Futuristic variant style. The iconographical analysis step identified that the elements used in his makeup are inspired by his identity and life. In the final step of iconological interpretation, the researcher concluded that Alexander McQueen's makeup expresses social, cultural, and aesthetical value of the time period when the collection was created. His makeup shows postmodernism that accepts a diversity of views (the pluralism) and humanism, romantic narcissism that is his personality trait, and avant-garde that pursues a new, creative aesthetics.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.14 no.2
• /
• pp.211-221
• /
• 2012

The word 'chintz' is thought to be a corruption of spotted cloth. Printing remained a relatively primitive method of decorating textiles in Europe until the second half of the 17th century. The formation of the English East India Company sparked the influx into the West of painted and printed Indian cotton textiles. A William Sherwin took out the first English patent in 1676. The earlist European designs were florals in the Indian manner. Patterns of European flowers returned to England as birds, flowers, trees, vines and stained glass for Victorian chintz. In France, the original and most successsful manufacturer of the distinctive printed fabrics from Jouy was Christophe Philippe Oberkampf. Copperplate printing was introduced to Jouy in 1770, probably reaching the pinnacle of achievement in the craft after 1783 when Jean-Baptiste Huet became chief designer. Huet's style was widely imitated in France and abroad, and the term 'toile de Jouy' has come to be universally applied to monochrome figurative designs wherever and by whomsoever they were produced. Oberkampf served his apprenticeship as an engraver with some leading manufacturers, including a period in Mulhouse. In Alsace, which was not part of France until 1798, the first factory had opened in 1746 in Mulhouse, and the area soon had the largest number of print-works in France.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.26 no.5
• /
• pp.62-75
• /
• 2022

The purpose of this study was to analyze the types of aesthetic characteristics and their expression methods in the goth style expressed with the sensibility of an illustrator, using the work of Toon Hertz as an example. As a research method for this purpose, previous studies and books were used to examine the components of fashion illustration, the concept and aesthetic characteristics of goth style, and the world of Toon Hertz's work. In the qualitative studies, Toon Hertz's works were collected and the characteristics of each component were analyzed. As a result of analyzing the aesthetic characteristics, Distortion appeared as the main element of the human body, and the human body was distorted through the method of combining the human body with animals, plants, and other objects. History was mainly expressed through fashion elements. Victorian clothing was predominant, the color was mainly black, and it was characterized by decorations, such as fancy laces, corsets, and shirrings. The screen layout and the object components appeared as the main components of mystery. Sensuality was a major component of the human body, and it emphasized decadent and sensual images of a woman sitting with both legs apart or placing her hands on her legs or chest. Fear was the main component of the human body, and strangeness and fear were created by omitting or removing parts of the body, such as women's arms, legs, hands, or eyes.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.10 no.2
• /
• pp.11-25
• /
• 2008

John William Waterhouse (1849-1917) is a painter renown for his romantic beautiful femme fatale images in the late 19th century in England. The purpose of this study is to examine the fashion in Waterhouse's femme fatale images. Waterhouse displays the devilism of femme fatale by the symbols of a wicked woman. He emphasized how wicked she is by means of water such as lake, river, and sea as well as symbols associated with demons such as forest, cave, naked woman, long hair, a monster-headed woman looking like an animal, water lily, and garden. On the other hand, he illustrates the woman's style as an image of a typical feminine beauty. Expressing naturally a fine-curved, immature girl's body with marvel-like white and clear skin in a kneeling down or crouching passive rose and depicting it as an innocent and fragile feminine image, he created a passive and lovely image of a young girl. With her eminent beauty and sex appeals, she lured men into danger. Words such as evil, women, and death had been used in describing her as femme fatale to emphasize her wickedness as well as to deliver the meaning across from the inside and to the outside. They also described her as a type of woman with body posture and fashion corresponding to the sexual ideology during the Victorian Age. His description of this fashion image was to show that femme fatale's fashion, which represents attraction and fatality, does not necessarily translate to an active fashion style that emphasizes sensuality. It also tends to minimize resistance and feelings of being threatened. Therefore, it allons us to acknowledge that even girlish body with innocent and frail-looking fashion can be a form of femme fatale, and that fashion styles is essential in forming the image of femininity.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.23 no.4
• /
• pp.112-126
• /
• 2019

The objective of this study was to investigate visual elements of steampunk fashion and provide base line data for innovative fashion design ideas and products. We investigated design characteristics of steampunk fashion style shown in 3 movies and 3 animations. Based on the investigation, the research drew intrinsic value of steampunk fashion from three brands 'Vivienne Westwood', 'Dolce & Gabbana' and 'Alexander McQueen'. As the research analyzed movies and animations revealing steampunk style, various characteristics were found and assorted into similar categories. Subcategories of steampunk fashion are pluralism, rebellion and heterogeneity. The followings are result of analyzing three designer collection listed above. First, steampunk fashion made by designers used various color and materials to express multi-pluralistic(multiplicity) characteristic. Second, fashion style in collections revealed artistic and experimental design. This adventurous and innovative characteristic is categorized as rebellion feature. Third, steampunk fashion style used mix-match of unexpected materials or unbalanced silhouette to create a complete fashion style by combining styles in duplicity which could've lack harmony. Intrinsic value of steampunk is defined as graffiti of 19th century's science technology and utopia spirit. Longing for past and fantasy was expressed into fashion. Steampunk fashion wants to escape reality and tries to recreate history of the past faded away with technological development. It defines steampunk as freedom, deviation and fantastical utopia in positive point of view. Furthermore, aesthetic implication of steampunk style found in this research can make a boundary of steampunk style clear and become reference for future researches regarding steampunk fashion.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
• /
• v.3 no.1
• /
• pp.61-68
• /
• 2000

In recognition of the necessity to research on dresses of the past to lead future fashion, this study is focused on plastron basque that has constructed or decorated upper garments in various forms from the ancient times to modern times. Especially through reproduction and restoration of Victorian dress with plastron basque, the study approaches the problem in positive manner, As a result, studied 1887∼9 day dress is a plastron of pouched style with pleats panel in front center connected to jacket style bodice by buttons: and it shows changes into modern day dress form by constructing fitted line with decorative effects. By actually making the plastron that was only seen in picture, we expect this study will be a valuable resource for developing patterns, sewing and decoration techniques.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.63 no.8
• /
• pp.58-75
• /
• 2013

Steampunk is a term generally used for one of the S. F. subgenre in literature, arts, fashion styles, and lifestyles. This study clarifies formative characteristics as well as the meanings of steampunk fashion style based on its attributes in movies and animations. Attributes of the steampunk are blending time, blending technology, and introspection against science development. In order to have an objective research, this study researched frequency of the fashion item, color, accessory of the collected fashion image, and after interpreted that consequence. Men's steampunk fashion was composed of men's basic outfit such as shirts, vest, jacket, pants, and coats of the 19th century. Black color took up the largest proportion for color. In accessory, top hat, goggle, and steam-powered weapons, in order, were most commonly used. Women's steampunk fashion was composed of shirts and long one-piece dresses, long skirt simply applied 19th victorian style fashion. Yellow, brown, and black color took up the largest proportion of fashion color. In accessory, top hat, belt trimming, corset, and boots, in order, were most commonly used. It is the characteristics of the steampunk fashion that represents retro-future fashion, as it features steam-powered mechanic esthetics, a kind of DIY subculture and transcending division of nationality, class, and gender.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.13 no.2
• /
• pp.50-65
• /
• 2009

The main purpose of this study is to identify characteristics of shapes of John Galliano's Dior Collection as the chief executive designer of Christian Dior Maison during $1996{\sim}2007$ after he showed himself in Paris in 1990. This study was based on the analyses of John Galliano's design trends of his collections, the pictures of his works in Christian Dior's collection, real works, documents and fashion magazines, newspapers, mass media, internet sites and other visual materials. The study identified characteristics of shapes in Dior Collection until 07/08 F/W as the chief executive designer of Christian Dior Maison, and the design trends before his post-Paris period. Followings are the conclusions of the study. First, Galliano was open to any types of cultures as a liberalist, and also respectful to the tradition or principles. He led the fashion business with new trends by exploring both sides. Second, he succeeded in commercializing his avant-garde feature. Especially, His creativity changed the image of Christian Dior to younger and more casual one. Third, born in England and worked in French, he always took both English (Victorian Style) and French(Napoleon era, Femme Fatal style) sides, and showed excellent formulation that the times needed by combining topical Chinese, Japanese, Egyptian styles.