Browse > Article
http://dx.doi.org/10.5805/KSCI.2012.14.2.211

Development and Design of Modern Europe Chintz - Focusing on England and France -  

Lee, Kyung-Hee (Dept. of Materials Design Engineering, Kumoh National Institute of Technology)
Publication Information
Fashion & Textile Research Journal / v.14, no.2, 2012 , pp. 211-221 More about this Journal
Abstract
The word 'chintz' is thought to be a corruption of spotted cloth. Printing remained a relatively primitive method of decorating textiles in Europe until the second half of the 17th century. The formation of the English East India Company sparked the influx into the West of painted and printed Indian cotton textiles. A William Sherwin took out the first English patent in 1676. The earlist European designs were florals in the Indian manner. Patterns of European flowers returned to England as birds, flowers, trees, vines and stained glass for Victorian chintz. In France, the original and most successsful manufacturer of the distinctive printed fabrics from Jouy was Christophe Philippe Oberkampf. Copperplate printing was introduced to Jouy in 1770, probably reaching the pinnacle of achievement in the craft after 1783 when Jean-Baptiste Huet became chief designer. Huet's style was widely imitated in France and abroad, and the term 'toile de Jouy' has come to be universally applied to monochrome figurative designs wherever and by whomsoever they were produced. Oberkampf served his apprenticeship as an engraver with some leading manufacturers, including a period in Mulhouse. In Alsace, which was not part of France until 1798, the first factory had opened in 1746 in Mulhouse, and the area soon had the largest number of print-works in France.
Keywords
chintz; Europe; designs; Victorian chintz; toile de Jouy;
Citations & Related Records
연도 인용수 순위
  • Reference
1 Christa C. M. T. (1992). Textiles. Chicago: The Art Institute of Chicago, pp. 94-99.
2 Janiffer, H. (1995). 5000 Years of Textiles. .London: British Museum Press, pp. 224-231.
3 Kanebou, F. L. (1994). ミュル-ズ染織美術館展. [Exhibition of Mulhoues Textiles]. Tokyo: Kanebou Fashion Lab., pp. 2-59.
4 KDR(1997). Fashion 전문 자료사전 [Dictionary of Fashion]. Seoul: Korean Dictionary Research Publishing., p.25.
5 Kyoto, N. M. M (1980). 浪漫衣裳展 [Exhibition of Romantic Dress] Kyoto: Kyoto National Modern Museum, pp. 26-31.
6 Lee, K. H. (2011). Textile Culture. Kumi: Spectrum, pp. 102- 113.
7 NHK Kinki Media Plan. (1995). ヨ-ロッパ染織の美 [Beauty of European Dyeing and Weaving] Kyoto: NHK Kinki Media Plan, pp. 21-23
8 Patricia, F. (2000). Collecting Textiles. London: Octopus Publishing Group, pp. 108-121.
9 Sano, K. (1999). 織リと染めの歷史 [History of Weaving and Dyeing] Tokyo: Showatou, pp. 69-87
10 Sei, K. (1995). 西洋染織文樣史 [History of Western Dyeing and Weaving] Tokyo: Asakurashoden, pp. 69-81.
11 Sei, K. (2006). 西洋染織模樣の歷史と色彩 [History and Color of Western Dyeing and Textile]. Tokyo: Asakurashoden, pp. 131-192.
12 Tuzi, M. (1996). ヨ-ロッパのテキスタイル史 [History of European Textile]. Tokyo: Iwazaki bizutusha, pp. 68-87.